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Topic: Which BRAND of OIL?
userw5
Platinum TS Supporter
Member # 48
Member Rated:
posted 03-07-2002 05:52 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by TundraBear:
ok. well i should be hitting 2000 miles on my tundra this weekend. i meant to change the oil @ 500 miles for _____ & giggles, but never got around to it. from what i've been reading, it looks like i'll be going with mobil1 oil & filter.
i was wondering something though. is it necessary for me to use one of those engine flush products or just warm up the oil enuf to slide out? i have used engine flush in the past but then again we're talking on an '86 toyota van with 250k+ miles, an '83 toyota pickup with 250k + miles, a '92 jeep wrangler with 115k + miles. i plan to keep my tundra forever (unless i upgrade to a full size 4-door) and want to take as best care as possible.
thanks!
oliver
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oliver,
I would not use an engine flush. If you change your oil on a regularly it should not be necessary.
Jeff
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Posts: 70 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
TundraBear
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Member # 132
Member Rated:
posted 03-06-2002 10:36 PM
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ok. well i should be hitting 2000 miles on my tundra this weekend. i meant to change the oil @ 500 miles for _____ & giggles, but never got around to it. from what i've been reading, it looks like i'll be going with mobil1 oil & filter.
i was wondering something though. is it necessary for me to use one of those engine flush products or just warm up the oil enuf to slide out? i have used engine flush in the past but then again we're talking on an '86 toyota van with 250k+ miles, an '83 toyota pickup with 250k + miles, a '92 jeep wrangler with 115k + miles. i plan to keep my tundra forever (unless i upgrade to a full size 4-door) and want to take as best care as possible.
thanks!
oliver
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Posts: 85 | From: Los Angeles, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
lelandstanford
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posted 03-03-2002 02:08 PM
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How does a 5W-30 dino (SL and GF-3) compare with 5W-30 50% synthetic (SJ and GF-2)?
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Posts: 64 | From: Houston, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
KLS
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Member # 100
posted 02-28-2002 09:27 PM
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API grade SL and ILSAC grade GF-3 went into effect in July, 2001.
http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/ACF28.pdf
http://www.autoserviceworld.com/issu...l01/page26.asp
If a certain oil blend does not meet these new specs, it shouldn't be used in any engine that requires this spec. This probably means many 2002 engines.
In any case, oils that meet the new spec will be superior in older engines where the other requirements are met, i. e., viscosity, etc.
Ken
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Posts: 109 | From: Western Washington St. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
RagerXS
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posted 02-23-2002 01:03 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by Boston Tundra:
Does anyone have an opinion about what to put in a 2002 Toyota (presumably HINO) Limited-Slip Differential?
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Yes. A good GL-5 75W-90. If you want AMSOIL, I have the Series 2000 75W-90 in stock, and as close as we are to each other you could eliminate shipping... With the AMSOIL gear lubes, the Toyota limited slip additive is not required. With other gear lubes it may be necessary, case by case.
And anytime you change the fluid in a limited slip differential (clutch type, viscous, TORSEN, whatever), you should then go to a large parking lot and do 8-10 tight figure-8 patterns to evenly distribute the new fluid throughout the differential.
Sorry about getting off topic here everyone...
~ Fred
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www.NewEnglandSynthetics.com
"Certified AMSOIL Dealer"
Tundra Solutions Sponsor
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Posts: 73 | From: Wakefield, MA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
RagerXS
Supporting Vendor
Member # 470
Member Rated:
posted 02-23-2002 12:49 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by aika:
hey guys i thought this was very interesting...i went to pepboys today to pick up some syn oil, and i checked out the categories forthem (ie ilsac gf-2 and ilsac gf-3) i found that the mobil 1 (fully synthetic) is rated for gf 2, which is supposed to be inferior to gf3, and that the clean blend is rated gf3! whats the deal. i also found that valvoline syn is rated gf3. why is there a discrepancy here? if the ratings rate mobil1 subpar to other oils why is it everyone's favorite here? not jumping on anybody i just dont get it...
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The ILSAC GF-3 and API SL standards aren't yet in effect, but some oils already meet one or both of the specs (AMSOIL exceeds both). Here's a cut & paste from the Mobil1 website about these standards: "In addition, later in 2002, Mobil 1 will exceed the newest certification standards being implemented on that date – ILSAC GF-3 and API Service SL". Not sure if that means they plan to reformulate it or not, but it sounds like it to me...
~ Fred
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www.NewEnglandSynthetics.com
"Certified AMSOIL Dealer"
Tundra Solutions Sponsor
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Posts: 73 | From: Wakefield, MA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Boston Tundra
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Member # 1203
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posted 02-22-2002 03:44 PM
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Does anyone have an opinion about what to put in a 2002 Toyota (presumably HINO) Limited-Slip Differential?
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2002 Tundra Limited, TRD, LSD, Bedrug, Advance Cover
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Posts: 15 | From: Brookline, MA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
aika
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Member # 87
Member Rated:
posted 02-22-2002 02:37 PM
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hey guys i thought this was very interesting...i went to pepboys today to pick up some syn oil, and i checked out the categories forthem (ie ilsac gf-2 and ilsac gf-3) i found that the mobil 1 (fully synthetic) is rated for gf 2, which is supposed to be inferior to gf3, and that the clean blend is rated gf3! whats the deal. i also found that valvoline syn is rated gf3. why is there a discrepancy here? if the ratings rate mobil1 subpar to other oils why is it everyone's favorite here? not jumping on anybody i just dont get it...
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Posts: 154 | From: San Diego, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
RagerXS
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posted 02-14-2002 01:42 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by KLS:
Any top quality filter will work fine. Try one of these:
Amsoil, Hastings, Mobil 1, Napa Gold (same as Wix), Purolator Pure One, Toyota, Wix.
Ken
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I normally agree with just about everything Ken says because he's usually right, but I think the Napa (Gold, Silver, whatever) and Wix filters are just as bad as Fram. All three used to be good but cost-cutting leaves them very poor and I'd never use any of them even on a beater.
So excluding those two you still have a handful of very good filters to choose from...
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www.NewEnglandSynthetics.com
"Certified AMSOIL Dealer"
Tundra Solutions Sponsor
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Posts: 73 | From: Wakefield, MA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
KLS
TS Supporter
Member # 100
posted 02-13-2002 05:35 PM
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Any top quality filter will work fine. Try one of these:
Amsoil, Hastings, Mobil 1, Napa Gold (same as Wix), Purolator Pure One, Toyota, Wix.
Ken
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Posts: 109 | From: Western Washington St. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
aika
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Member # 87
Member Rated:
posted 02-13-2002 05:11 PM
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i figure there isnt a difference between running certain oils (dino or synthetic) through the same type filter, but is there a better oil filter to use when running synthetic oils? showing my ignorance again im sure but needed to know...
aika
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Posts: 154 | From: San Diego, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Player19
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Member # 68
Member Rated:
posted 02-13-2002 03:42 PM
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I should have made my redline oil test more clear....
I havent been running the same oil since 17k without an oil change. I run mine to 10k intervals wiht a k@n oil filter.
What I was trying to convey is that I am trying out redline oil for everyone and seeing if it will make my engine last longer vs. mobil 1. Although I haven't worn down an engine with mobil 1, I just want to see the longevity....
You are right about the price--it is outrageous compared to mobil 1.
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Posts: 42 | From: Las Vegas | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
RagerXS
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Member Rated:
posted 02-13-2002 09:54 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by Player19:
I have to get my vote in for Redline oil... I would run mobil 1 if i didn't get redline for cheap though.... I am running the redline miles test-- I put it in at 17k in april and I have 40k now....
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Redline makes a good product. It's one of the premium synthetics available (which are all a step up from Mobil 1, which is a big step up from the 'me too' synthetics like Valvoline, Pennzoil, Quaker State, etc.). It's on par with AMSOIL's original synthetic line, but I typically find that it is priced as high as or even more than the unsurpassed Series 2000 fluids from AMSOIL.
But you should be VERY careful about this 'Redline miles test'. If Redline is backing you in this test that's one thing, but they clearly state that their oil is good up to 18K miles -- if you have any oil-related problems when exceeding their interval they will not cover your repairs. It is true that Toyota would have to honor the warranty unless they could prove it was the oil causing the problem -- then it falls on the oil manufacturer to fix your problem. And if you had exceeded the oil manufacturer's specified drain interval then you are on your own...
I'm not trying to scare anyone, just informing you that you should CYA.
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www.NewEnglandSynthetics.com
"Certified AMSOIL Dealer"
Tundra Solutions Sponsor
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Posts: 73 | From: Wakefield, MA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Player19
TS Member
Member # 68
Member Rated:
posted 02-12-2002 04:57 PM
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I have to get my vote in for Redline oil... I would run mobil 1 if i didn't get redline for cheap though.... I am running the redline miles test-- I put it in at 17k in april and I have 40k now....
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Posts: 42 | From: Las Vegas | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
KLS
TS Supporter
Member # 100
posted 02-12-2002 12:34 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by aika:
hey guys one more stupid question- do i have to do anything particular when i change my oil next time and put synthetic in? im really not up to speed when it comes to oil. ive never given synthetic much of a thought until i read this post. is it basically used the same way the other stuff's used? thanks for catering to my ignorance, i really really appreciate the help. aika
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Synthetic oils have higher detergency. If your engine has lots of miles and is badly sludged up, the better oil might knock sludge loose and plug oil passages.
Your engine is clean. Just use the oil and filter of your choice.
If an engine has lots of miles, there are a couple of techniques to clean it up:
1) use a flush product with a new filter before and after the flush.
--or--
2) use the synthetic oil but change the filter at 1000, 3000, and 5000 miles to be sure that the crud knocked loose doesn't clog the filter and cause the oil to flow through the filter bypass and not be cleaned in the filter.
Ken
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Posts: 109 | From: Western Washington St. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Topic: Which BRAND of OIL?
KLS
TS Supporter
Member # 100
posted 02-12-2002 12:27 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by dogzpaws:
[QB
Andrew[/qb]
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"Torco"? Never heard of it. Could you please explain? Just curious.[/QB][/quote]
http://www.torcoracingoils.com/products/index.htm
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Posts: 109 | From: Western Washington St. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Mohamed
TS Member
Member # 589
Rate Member posted 02-12-2002 12:08 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by RagerXS:
quote:
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Originally posted by Wadingboy:
I've got another quirky question on oil. I have a friend who mixes one qt. synthetic with three qt. dino! After 350,000 on the same engine he gave the van (Toyota by the way) to his son and bought another with 150k. Anybody else ever try the oil mix?
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This mixing of oils is a bad idea. While they are required to be compatible with other oils meeting the same specification standards, they are not necessarily complementary by any means.
Each oil has it's own unique additive package that is designed to work in conjunction with the base oil. In order for a particular oil to perform at it's peak, this should not be compromised.
If you want a synthetic blend oil then buy a synthetic blend oil -- it will come from the manufacturer with the proper additive package. More than likely self-experimentation will not.
~ Fred
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That's exactly what I was going to say. I am 110% in agreement with Fred!
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Posts: 95 | From: Carmichael, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Red Hornet
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Member # 638
posted 02-12-2002 12:02 PM
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Mobil1 oil & filter.
'00 Tundra @ 42K (s)miles & going strong!
cheers,
Red Hornet
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Posts: 41 | From: SoCAL | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
RagerXS
Supporting Vendor
Member # 470
Member Rated:
posted 02-12-2002 11:07 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by Wadingboy:
I've got another quirky question on oil. I have a friend who mixes one qt. synthetic with three qt. dino! After 350,000 on the same engine he gave the van (Toyota by the way) to his son and bought another with 150k. Anybody else ever try the oil mix?
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This mixing of oils is a bad idea. While they are required to be compatible with other oils meeting the same specification standards, they are not necessarily complementary by any means.
Each oil has it's own unique additive package that is designed to work in conjunction with the base oil. In order for a particular oil to perform at it's peak, this should not be compromised.
If you want a synthetic blend oil then buy a synthetic blend oil -- it will come from the manufacturer with the proper additive package. More than likely self-experimentation will not.
~ Fred
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www.NewEnglandSynthetics.com
"Certified AMSOIL Dealer"
Tundra Solutions Sponsor
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Posts: 73 | From: Wakefield, MA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
dogzpaws
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Member # 383
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posted 02-12-2002 12:02 AM
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After much research and deliberation, I finally switched over to Synthetic - Mobil1. Only took me 50,000 miles to decide. Changed the engine oil, transmission (drain and refill method), and grease. Will change the differentials and transfer probably this summer. I actually didn't notice much difference in the engine. However, I noticed a big difference in the transmission. I park in a parking garage and I remember being able to hear the transmission shift between 1st and 2nd gears. That transition is not much quieter and softer (doesn't have the slight 'clunk' that it used to have).
I'll be changing the engine oil at 5,000 mile intervals. The transmission I'll be changing at the same time as the oil until I get through around 10 changes (this will get me to close to full synthetic in the transmission), then I'll go to the recommended interval in the manual.
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dogzpaws
2000 Tundra SR5 Access Cab V8 4x4 Jade
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Posts: 29 | From: La Mesa, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Tundra Rose
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posted 02-11-2002 11:54 PM
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Personally prefer Redline but Mobil 1 would be my other choice. Put Redline in trans and differential at 3K miles. Waited till 10K to switch the crankcase to synthetic to give the valves a good chance to seat. Did do a dyno crank change at 3K just in case there was any metal or other system debris but all came out clean as a whistle. Used the pump exchange method to get a complete flush - both times. Feels like it runs even smoother on the synth. Judy
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Posts: 196 | From: Los Angeles, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
dogzpaws
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Member # 383
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posted 02-11-2002 11:38 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by AndrewW:
I just switched my Tundra over to Torco 5w30 synthetic at 6500 miles.
Andrew
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"Torco"? Never heard of it. Could you please explain? Just curious.
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dogzpaws
2000 Tundra SR5 Access Cab V8 4x4 Jade
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Posts: 29 | From: La Mesa, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Larry Lawton
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posted 02-11-2002 11:32 PM
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I’ve read a whole flock of studies over the years, and the consensus seem to be that regular oil and filter changes are a lot more important that what oil you use – assuming you’re using oils that meet the latest standards. Regular doesn’t mean more often than every 5 or 6 thousand miles. Even in harsh service, quicker changes don’t make a difference. Now, I don’t think you should use the synthetics for 10,000 or 20,000 miles, like some folks say. Certainly, a synthetic ain’t gonna wear out, but an important function of oil is to hold piston scrapings and the byproducts of combustion in suspension. My rule is to drain out the gunk, even if the oil holding it is still going strong.
Now, having said that, I’ve used Mobil 1 for years. I like the new 0W-30. The tests I’ve seen make it look the synthetics could save your engine if really bad stuff happens. I think that’s true. Here’s my story.
We were touring the Grand Canyon, Zion’s Nation Monument, etc. one summer in my wife’s ’91 Lexus ES250. That’s really hot country, with high altitude and some hill climbs thrown in. An overheating problem developed, and it took several thousand miles of horsing around before I finally spotted a hairline crack in the radiator shell. New radiator solved the problem, but the transmission failed soon after. I figured the engine was close behind. Got a new ES300, and put the old one up for sale.
Now, I take great care of my cars, and friends usually line up to buy ‘em when I’m through. However, I sold this one to a buddy only with great reluctance, and after cutting the price to less than he was willing to pay. I carefully told him what happened, and warning him I didn’t think the engine would last long. That was almost five years ago. He used it for years, and then passed it on to one of his children, who took it off to college.
Tragically he died prematurely, leaving a widow with six children. They’ve had to keep using that old car, now with well over 200,000 miles, as the third and fourth child has taken it off to college. I figure the synthetic saved the engine, but would be the first to admit I can’t prove it.
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Larry/WyomingCowboyInSanFrancisco
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Posts: 68 | From: San Francisco Bay Area | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
AndrewW
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Member # 587
posted 02-11-2002 11:29 PM
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I just switched my Tundra over to Torco 5w30 synthetic at 6500 miles.
Andrew
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Posts: 1 | From: Antelope, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
aika
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Member # 87
Member Rated:
posted 02-11-2002 11:00 PM
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hey guys one more stupid question- do i have to do anything particular when i change my oil next time and put synthetic in? im really not up to speed when it comes to oil. ive never given synthetic much of a thought until i read this post. is it basically used the same way the other stuff's used? thanks for catering to my ignorance, i really really appreciate the help. aika
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Posts: 154 | From: San Diego, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
TundraWolf
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Member # 30
Member Rated:
posted 02-11-2002 10:24 PM
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I've gone with Mobile 1. I do hope to put 150-200k miles on my truck. I also was feeling like the initial rev when I start the truck was begging for some synthetic oil to be hanging around and keep things lubed well until the pump got the pressure up to normal. I've only run a couple tanks through it on the synthetic and haven't noticed any change in gas mileage yet.
As far as mixing synthetic and dino, many have commented about the supperior additive package of synthetic. Makes sense that mixing a quart of synthetic in with dino would certainly improve the dino.
Previous posters mention that Mobile 1's gear lube and grease are not fully synthetic. I'll be researching this area in a few thousand more miles but have no first hand knowledge to date.
Kim
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2002 Thunder Gray SR5 4x4. Dreaming of Line-X and a SnugTop.
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Posts: 41 | From: Klamath Falls, OR | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
KLS
TS Supporter
Member # 100
posted 02-11-2002 09:08 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by Tundra Thundra:
I've used Penzoil in all my motors since the late '60s. My 1991 taco ran 125,000 miles without using a drop of oil between changes (changed oil & filter every 3,000) and came out of that motor almost as clean as it went it. Great stuff, parrafin based oil (vs. asphalt based). I believe Quaker state is also parrafin based. Anyway, I've had nothing but great luck over the past 35 years with Penzoil. I use 5w-30w in the Tundra.
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Pennzoil and Quaker State are the same; both are products of Pennzoil-Quaker State Co. which formed by merger in 1998. Both brands are good oil. The parafin base stock is no longer valid. Modern oils are refined way past the point where any of that matters--Group II or Group II+ base stock oils are required in order for the finished product to meed modern specs. Here's data on modern oil. It's published by 76, a Phillips brand, but it applies to all modern oils:
http://www.tosco.com/internet_pub/re...s/44_tn3_4.pdf
Ken
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Posts: 109 | From: Western Washington St. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
KLS
TS Supporter
Member # 100
posted 02-11-2002 08:59 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by aika:
you guys may think im an idiot for asking this but is there really a clear advantage for using synthetic over regular oil? if it doesnt make a difference except in time between changes then ill keep using the normal stuff. does synthetic stay cleaner or have less buildup or something? im sure i sound ignorant but i think its worth it to ask. thanks for the help guys- aika
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The better synthetic oils have:
1) higher film strength--you get better protection with lower viscosity so you lose less horsepower just pumping your oil (slightly better gas mileage)
2) run cooler & dissipate heat faster
3) flow better when very cold so you get better lubrication
4) don't thin down as much when very hot so you get better lubrication
5) break down at much higher temperatures
6) less volatile so there's less oil evaporation
7) don't break down as readily in normal operation so they're good for more miles.
8) keep your engine cleaner
9) cost more
For most of us, any good brand name 5W-30 API-SL & ILSAC/GF-3 oil changed every 5000 miles will keep the engine running fine as long as we own it. If you plan on keeping your truck over 200,000 miles, give synthetics serious consideration.
Ken
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Posts: 109 | From: Western Washington St. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Cloud 9
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posted 02-11-2002 04:59 PM
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I've used Penzoil in all my motors since the late '60s. My 1991 taco ran 125,000 miles without using a drop of oil between changes (changed oil & filter every 3,000) and came out of that motor almost as clean as it went it. Great stuff, parrafin based oil (vs. asphalt based). I believe Quaker state is also parrafin based. Anyway, I've had nothing but great luck over the past 35 years with Penzoil. I use 5w-30w in the Tundra.
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2002 Limited 4x4 Access cab, TRD offroad pkg, LSD, Weatherguard pkg, leather, Snugtop Supersport with BedRug.
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Posts: 92 | From: Redondo Beach, California | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
aika
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Member # 87
Member Rated:
posted 02-11-2002 04:53 PM
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you guys may think im an idiot for asking this but is there really a clear advantage for using synthetic over regular oil? if it doesnt make a difference except in time between changes then ill keep using the normal stuff. does synthetic stay cleaner or have less buildup or something? im sure i sound ignorant but i think its worth it to ask. thanks for the help guys- aika
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Posts: 154 | From: San Diego, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Topic: Which BRAND of OIL?
Rick I
TS Member
Member # 424
Rate Member posted 02-11-2002 02:56 PM
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For what it's worth. I use Mobil 1 as well. We have 3 BMW's and the one Tundra. 10w-30 in the Tundra 15w-50 in the Bimmers. I change oil somewhere between 5-7k miles depending on when I get to it. They say you can go longer on Syn oil but why. Mobil 1 is 3.50 a qt at costco and is a lot cheaper than a new 4.0lt V-8 from BMW or a 4.7 from Toyota. OIL is cheap insurance, running synthetic won't hurt, that's for sure.
-Rick
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Posts: 4 | From: Morgan Hill | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Wadingboy
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Member # 108
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posted 02-11-2002 02:15 PM
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I've got another quirky question on oil. I have a friend who mixes one qt. synthetic with three qt. dino! After 350,000 on the same engine he gave the van (Toyota by the way) to his son and bought another with 150k. Anybody else ever try the oil mix?
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Posts: 24 | From: Laytonville, Ca. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
bluetundra
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Member # 143
Member Rated:
posted 02-11-2002 01:47 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by Big Sky:
Is Mobil 1 synthetic oil only?
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Mobil1 is Mobil's synthetic line. Mobil's dino oil is just labeled Mobil - without the 1. I have changed my trans and differential fluids all to Mobil1 and I have no problems at all with it. I just switched to Amsoil 5W30 synthetic to utilize the longer drain intervals that the oil supports. I don't think I'll go anywhere near the 25,000 miles that they claim but 7,500 - 10,000 miles is along the lines that I am looking at for my oil changes.
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Posts: 17 | From: Michigan | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
nedjames
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Member # 380
posted 02-11-2002 01:15 PM
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I use Castrol 5w30
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Posts: 33 | From: Louisiana | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Big Sky
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Member # 278
Rate Member posted 02-11-2002 01:05 PM
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I am sure this has been posted alot, but the education is always nice. Anybody's opinion is welcome as this is one area I know next to nothing about.
Is Mobil 1 synthetic oil only? I do plan on towing a boat quite often with this truck. Will that matter much or just regular oil changes in general be better?
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Posts: 2 | From: Milwaukee, WI | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
oldmonk
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Member # 363
Rate Member posted 02-11-2002 12:28 PM
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Amsoil is my favorite brand.
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Posts: 1 | From: Keystone state | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
dboy4ever
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posted 02-11-2002 11:50 AM
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The amount of affection I have for my Tundra calls for nothing but Mobil 1. She has been running on Mobil 1 engine oil since the second oil change. Some may argue that dino oil is as good as synthetic, and they may be right, but my Tundra could always use some spoiling.
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Chris
V6 Forum Moderator
2001 Tundra Jade Acc. Cab SR5 V6 5spd 2WD
TRD Bilstein shocks, PowerTrax locker, Husky floor liners
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Posts: 118 | From: Oakland, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
KLS
TS Supporter
Member # 100
posted 02-11-2002 11:40 AM
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Use any brand of oil that carries the API-SL grade and the ILSAC GF/3 grade. Follow the owner's manual for the correct viscosity. All these petroleum oils are good for the full oil change interval specified in the manual, but lots of folks feel better by changing their oil sooner. In any case, any synthetic oil is certainly good for the fill 7500 mile interval, and three brands that I know of (Red Line, NEO, and Amsoil) recommend longer intervals, up to 1 year or 35k. It's OK to change brands when you do an oil change. If you need to add oil between changes, it's best to stick with the same brand that's already in the engine to maintain the same additive package. DO NOT use any after-market oil additives.
As others said, use good filters. Fram is getting a poor reputation. I like Toyota, Hastings, Amsoil, WIX, Napa Gold, Purolator Pure One, and Mobil 1 filters.
Ken
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Posts: 109 | From: Western Washington St. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
James
TS Member
Member # 236
Rate Member posted 02-11-2002 11:11 AM
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I agree with userw5
Just change it on a regular basis and you will be fine.
I can also whole-heartedly support the 5w-30 Mobil One oil for use. I use it in all my vehicles. I never really had much proof of it's ability, until I had the engine in my race car rebuilt last year, that was a Ford 302 block stroked out to 347 Cubes. That motor saw nasty abuse for six years and always ran great. After the motor was tore down the machine shop checked the crank, rods, pistons and EVERYTHING was in great shape, so much so that some guy bought all the parts off me to build a 347 to have fun with, he is now racing will all of my old internal engine parts.
Was it the oil? or My regular tuneups?
I say both.
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Posts: 5 | From: Virginia | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
userw5
Platinum TS Supporter
Member # 48
Member Rated:
posted 02-11-2002 10:14 AM
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Big Sky,
This is a topic of much controversy and debate and you will probably get more information on this subject than you care to read.
That being said, here is MHO that I think is shared by many here. Brand doesn't really matter. What does matter is that you change your oil and filter at least as often as the manufacturer recommends with an oil and filter that meets or exceeds the specifications they recommend. Some folks like to change their oil every 3k miles, some go more. A lot also depends on your driving habits. If you do lots of stop and go and city driving, I would recomend changing it closer to the 3k mark.
Personally, I use mobil1 5w-30 with the Toyota filter. I have been changing my oil between 3k-4k miles. I am planning on letting it go a little longer since I am now up over 20k total miles on my truck. That is still within the 7500 mile change interval recommended. I put on lots of highway miles probably 60-70%.
Enjoy,
Jeff
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Posts: 70 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Big Sky
TS Member
Member # 278
Rate Member posted 02-11-2002 08:40 AM
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Sorry to post this again, but my last post got moved before I had a chance to read it.
Changing oil for the first time and was wondering if TS members had a BRAND preferrence of OIL.
Since I'm not mechanically inclined and I hope to have this truck for a long time, it's really important to me to get off on the right foot. Does it matter?
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
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Posts: 2 | From: Milwaukee, WI | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Which BRAND of OIL?
Re: Which BRAND of OIL?
Took me twice as long as a regular post to sort out all the sigs, quotes, emoticons, etc. Forum software has come a long way since the bad old days of BBSes and 300 baud modems.
Linear Mode
