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Topic: GEORGE! or anyone else..Whats The Best "DINO" Oil
Suprteck
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Member # 719
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posted 02-28-2002 07:45 PM
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George, after I originaly posted this question it dissapeared over to the tech side and i was waiting for my check to get to Lon so he could add me to member/supporter status.
So I am now finaly thanking you for your info.
I will go with the mobil "dino" oil for the first 12000 miles then either continue or switch to mobil 1.
Thanx again
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2002 Silver Sky Metalic, V8 Access Cab, 4x4, TRD Off Road Package, TRD Cat Back Dual Exhaust.
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Posts: 47 | From: Northern California | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
georgeseq
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posted 02-23-2002 08:49 AM
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Regarding Mobil and Superflo.. No, they are not the same oils. The Exxon formulations and manufacture is still in an Exxon plant, Mobil, Mobil plant. The Superflow will probably/possibly be going away. In the merger, Exxon recognized that they had more expertise/market share in the lights (exploration/refining/sales) gasoline/diesel while Mobil is predominant lubricant (sales, etc.) in the world, thus basically set up 2 seperate operating companies with Exxon doing lights, Mobil doing the lube end. So there will be a gradual consolidation but the Mobil products will be remaining, unchanged, except for improvements in formulations.
Sorry for the long answer!
George
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Posts: 13 | From: Columbus, ohio | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
lelandstanford
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Member # 539
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posted 02-23-2002 08:11 AM
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Georgeseq:
Since Mobil and Exxon are merged and SuperFlo and Drive Clean are the same price at local parts store, is it safe to say SuperFlo and Drive Clean are the same but marketed under different brand?
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Factory Add-Ons: Running Boards, RS3000+
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Posts: 64 | From: Houston, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Red Hornet
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Member # 638
posted 02-22-2002 11:01 AM
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georgeseq,
It shouldn't matter where the Oil is formulated as long as it meets the Marketeers Specifications. So are you saying some outsource suppliers only meet minimum specs?
cheers
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......AUTOLITE *sta-ful* Batteries.....
~Needs Water Only 3 Times a Year~
-old battery ad
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Posts: 41 | From: SoCAL | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
aika
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Member # 87
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posted 02-22-2002 10:40 AM
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after actually reading the posts instead of skimming them, i realized i had posted a question that had just been answered. wow i feel like an idiot. thanks for the followup george...
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Posts: 154 | From: San Diego, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
georgeseq
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Member # 1424
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posted 02-22-2002 09:40 AM
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Apparently I did not make myself clear. The Mobil 1 synthetic is excellent, all agreed, along with the other superb synthetics. What I was saying in my post is that in mineral based oils the Mobil Drive Clean/Blue Case are sleepers in that they are very high quality, highly additized commercial level oils but without the marketing hype of the Castrol GTX, etc. etc..
We do not talk much about mineral based oils on this site and it was an excellent question.
With respect to the question about reverting back to mineral based oil after synthetic; yes, it is okay to do this and will not result in any operational aspects.
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Posts: 13 | From: Columbus, ohio | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
aika
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Member # 87
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posted 02-21-2002 11:31 PM
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so mobil is not as good as everyone says it is? or is it just their dino oil isnt as good. everyone rants and raves about the synthetic,so im going to try it. by the way, if i dont like it, is it bad to switch back to dino after running synthetic? just a question from an ignoramus...
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Posts: 154 | From: San Diego, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
TundraGuy
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Member # 11
posted 02-21-2002 09:01 PM
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Did anyone notice that Honda is specifying 5W-20 for most of its vehicles (according to that PDF document)? Wow, that's getting low.
-TG
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'02 Tundra Ltd 4x4, Black/Oak, Huper Optik Stark 30 tint, more mods to come...
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Posts: 91 | From: Austin, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
georgeseq
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Member # 1424
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posted 02-21-2002 08:02 PM
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Following an excellent series of responses, yes, all of the API rated mineral based oils are excellent. The odd-man out here is the Mobil drive clean oils. Mobil has always done a horrible job of promoting its oils, IMHO, and in my last virgin oil analysis run comparing each of the majors, Mobil had the highest level of additization of any brand auto mineral based oil. This is only looking at the additive package, but from that aspect, pretty much unequalled when compared with the rest of the mineral based oils. The Castrol series are excellent oils however, as we have discussed previously, you will never drive by a Castrol refinery here in the U.S. All their oils are blended by the majors by contract depending on what area of the country the oil is sold. Minimizes haulage.. So, on the West coast Castrol may be Chevron, East coast, blended by Mobil, etc. Which does lead to variances in the performances. Castrol, however, ARE excellent marketers..
And, we are getting fewer and fewer actual, for real brands. Pennzoil, Quaker State and Conoco come out of the same refinery in Louisiana. The Bradford, Pa. facility of Kendall is no more and is now produced in Texas by Sunoco. Texaco is this month produced by Chevron, last month by Shell.
George
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Posts: 13 | From: Columbus, ohio | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
KLS
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Member # 100
posted 02-16-2002 12:28 PM
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Mitch,
In the past we had to buy higher viscosity oils to get the higher film strength that we need for good lubrication. We don't any more. All higher viscosity does is consume horsepower.
This link about NEO 0w-5 racing oil is interesting. NEO also has a SAE 7 wt. manual transmission oil for racing transmissions.
http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/0w5.htm
These light viscosity lubes have the film strength to protect the metals, but consume minimum hp for maximum performance.
Ken
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Posts: 109 | From: Western Washington St. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
mitchr
TS Member
Member # 751
Rate Member posted 02-16-2002 07:35 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by KLS:
[QB]This link tells how good oils are these days. It's published by 76, a Phillips brand, but it applies to all brands with the quality labels API-SL and ILSAC/GF-3.
http://www.tosco.com/internet_pub/re...s/44_tn3_4.pdf
I read this article and the comments about the "new" 5w20 spec for 2001 Ford and Honda cars. I have never seen a 5w20 oil in a store and would have a hard time convicing myself to use it even if I had a vehicle that recommended it.
Mitch
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Posts: 11 | From: Kingsport, Tn | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
arkie6
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Member # 177
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posted 02-16-2002 05:36 AM
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I just wanted to add my $0.02 here on oil.
Multi-grade mineral oils, i.e. Dino oil, use a base stock of the lower viscosity number and add viscosity improvers (a plastic like material that curls up when hot which tends to "thicken" the oil it is in) to achieve the higher viscosity rating when hot. The 5W30 oil is a 5W base stock oil with enough viscosity improvers to make it perform like a 30W when hot. The wider the spread on the multi-grade, the more viscosity improvers are required. And viscosity improvers do little to nothing as as far as lubrication is involved. 10W40 mineral oil, with its wide weight rating spread, requires quite a bit of viscosity improvers to achieve this spread, which in reality reduces your lubricating properties. And these viscosity improvers add to the sludge and varnish accumulation in the engine. For these reasons, these wide spread multi-grade oils are rarely recommended anymore. And for those same reasons, if I were running mineral based oil, I would use 10W30 weight oil, especially if I were in a warmer climate.
Now synthetic lubricating oils are a different story. Since they don't tend to thicken nearly as much when cold, a synthetic 5W30 uses a 30 weight base stock and few if any viscosity improvers are needed. In reality, there is little if any difference between 0W30, 5W30, and 10W30 synthetic oils. They are labled that way mainly for marketing purposes since most people are familiar with those markings.
By the way, I run Mobil 1 Synthetic oil in all of my vehicles, usually 5W30, but I'll grab 0W30 or 10W30 if it is the only thing on sale. I run 15W40 in my motorcycle, but I rarely run it when it is cold outside.
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Alan, 2000 Tundra Access Cab V8 SR5 4x4 manufactured 01/07/00.
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Posts: 59 | From: Russellville, Arkansas | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
RagerXS
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Member # 470
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posted 02-15-2002 05:04 PM
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As usual, Ken is right on. Find a name brand you feel comfortable with that meets the spec. I'd use 5W-30, but 10W-30 will perform almost the same, as previously mentioned...
I want to reiterate here (as I did many times before the database got hacked) that I believe the Purolator Pure1 oil filter is the most cost-effective filter you can use for any vehicle you drive when you change oil at 7500 miles or less. It filters as well as the Mobil1 and is a close second to the AMSOIL filter. But the Pure1 costs about half what the other two cost. Obviously, if you are using extended drain intervals then you need the quality of the AMSOIL filter, but most of you don't so use the Pure1.
~ Fred
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www.NewEnglandSynthetics.com
"Certified AMSOIL Dealer"
Tundra Solutions Sponsor
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Posts: 73 | From: Wakefield, MA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
KLS
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Member # 100
posted 02-15-2002 04:35 PM
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This link tells how good oils are these days. It's published by 76, a Phillips brand, but it applies to all brands with the quality labels API-SL and ILSAC/GF-3.
http://www.tosco.com/internet_pub/re...s/44_tn3_4.pdf
I'd stick to your choice of name brand oil with the APL-SL & ILSAC/GF-3 markings. 5W-30 and 10W-30 have the same viscosity at operating temperature--they're both SAE 30--, so it's not an issue. 5W-30 does flow better when cold, so it'll lube better then. The 5W & 10W spec applies to the temperature at which the oil meets the cold cranking requirement: -30°C for 5W & -25°C for 10W. 5W-30 oil will give slightly better gas mileage according to the link above. Any of these oils will be good for 5,000 miles and also for 7,500 miles of highway driving. (I know, how will your truck know that you love it if you don't change the oil every 2500-3000 miles?)
One thing you don't want to do is mix different brands or types of oil at the same time. Each brand has it's own additive package, so stay consistent. It's OK to change brands of oil when you do an oil change. Never add additives to the oil. They're a waste of money, and they may damage the engine, foul the emission control stuff, or cost you money in some other way.
Ken
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Posts: 109 | From: Western Washington St. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
nedjames
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Member # 380
posted 02-15-2002 12:19 PM
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I use Castrol 5w30. The main thing is to change the oil and filter regularly.
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Donnelly auto dimming compas/temp mirror, pano mirrors, battery disconnect, Bosch platinum +4 spark plugs, super magnet drain plug, map lights mod, Zaino, bed hammock, senza warning labels
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Posts: 33 | From: Louisiana | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Topic: GEORGE! or anyone else..Whats The Best "DINO" Oil
Cloud 9
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Member # 417
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posted 02-14-2002 08:28 PM
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I bet you'll get a lot of opinions with this question. I've changed my own oil for the past 35 years. In the late 60s, early 70s, I drained many an oil pan working my way thru college. One of the things I remember from that was that Penzoil was then considered and priced as a "premium" oil over Chevron, Texaco, Havoine, etc. oils. I've stuck with it thru thick and thin, used it in every small block chevy race motor I've had, and every japanese mazda, mitsubishi and toyota motor since. Penzoil has never ever let me down. I used 10-30w in my 1991 Taco and after 125,000 miles, the motor did not burn a drop between changes and it stayed almost exactly as clean as it went in. Penzoil doesn't seem to sludge up the motors as easy as some other oils do. I just did my first oil change in my Tundra, and I tried the 5-30w, and we'll see how that works. Don't need it here in So. Calif., but with a new motor, it can't hurt to make sure that the oil is thin when the motor is cold. I think the thinner the oil is the better it can get into those places of tight tolerance. Perhaps I'll switch to 10-30 when I get 20-30K on the motor, we'll see how it goes. Also, I've heard a lot of good things about the purolator one filter so I'm giving that a whirl (after using Fram exclusively for many, many years). So that's my 2 cents....
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2002 Limited 4x4 Access cab, TRD offroad pkg, LSD, Weatherguard pkg, leather, Snugtop Supersport with BedRug.
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Posts: 92 | From: Redondo Beach, California | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Suprteck
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Member # 719
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posted 02-14-2002 08:16 PM
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For those of us that might want to stay with "Dino" oil.... whats the best out there as far as quality consistancy. Any comments or links for/to info would be appreciated. What
As for weight I was told to use 10w30 out here in CA.
But Toyota says 5w30...???
Probably no real differance, huh?
I will always use Mobil 1 oil filters though.
Thanx
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2002 Silver Sky Metalic, V8 Access Cab, 4x4, TRD Off Road Package, TRD Cat Back Dual Exhaust.
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Posts: 47 | From: Northern California | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
GEORGE! or anyone else..Whats The Best "DINO" Oil
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