synthetic oils - yes or no?

[nhparrot]

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Topic: synthetic oils - yes or no?
dogzpaws
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posted 02-27-2002 03:57 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by richus:
I'm usually very skeptical about being able to notice changes from dino to syn oil, but I agree with the cold running comment. I recently changed the transmission to Redline synthetic, and I definitely notice smoother shifting when the truck is cold.
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I noticed smoother shifting with synthetic in the tranny even when the engine is warm.

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dogzpaws
2000 Tundra SR5 Access Cab V8 4x4 Jade

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Posts: 29 | From: La Mesa, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

richus
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Rate Member posted 02-27-2002 09:11 AM
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I'm usually very skeptical about being able to notice changes from dino to syn oil, but I agree with the cold running comment. I recently changed the transmission to Redline synthetic, and I definitely notice smoother shifting when the truck is cold.
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Posts: 5 | From: cal | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

SATundra
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posted 02-27-2002 08:13 AM
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Fred I have had the syn oil in the rearend for about 10,000 miles now. Sometime VERY soon I will switch the tranny over too. I have started to notice that when the truck is cold, you take off then let up on the accelerator the tranny won't shift into 2nd gear very easily. Was thinking that the syn oil might help smooth this out. Once the truck (tranny) is fully warmed up this characteristic tends to go away. Overall I thought the syn tranny fluid would just help smooth the shifting out even more.

SATundra

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2001, SR5, V8, 4x2, Access Cab, Metallic Silver Sky

MODS: Better Built alum toolbox w/lights 2 inside 2 outside, lots of antennas, CB/Ham/Scanner/linear amp all mounted in custom made console, 10 disc CD player, DEI Sidewinder 5000 ESP alarm, undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, underhood light, TRD add-a-leaf (ordered), Lund bugshield, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, tinted windows, fuzzbuster hard wired, 4 block power terminal under dash, 12V Acc plug engine compartment, synthetic oils, fog light mod, cargo light mod, acc plug mod, map light mod, back seat angle mod soon, 2 TS stickers (back windows), 2 TS license plate frames (front, rear)

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Posts: 461 | From: San Antonio, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

RagerXS
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posted 02-27-2002 07:58 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by SATundra:
I haven't noticed the MPG increase but I did notice that the engine has taken a different sound. And by different I mean it seems to be not as loud which also means you can more 'clearly' hear the the engine running. Does this make sense or am I just making this up?

Well, I will say I think mine sounds BETTER, smoother sounding than before. Won't push it any further than that though.

SATundra
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You will find that synthetic lubricants in your transmission and differentials will have a greater impact on fuel economy.

~ Fred

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Posts: 73 | From: Wakefield, MA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

SATundra
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posted 02-25-2002 04:44 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by dogzpaws:

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I haven't noticed the MPG increase but I did notice that the engine has taken a different sound. And by different I mean it seems to be not as loud which also means you can more 'clearly' hear the the engine running. Does this make sense or am I just making this up?[/QB][/QUOTE]

Well, I will say I think mine sounds BETTER, smoother sounding than before. Won't push it any further than that though.

SATundra

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2001, SR5, V8, 4x2, Access Cab, Metallic Silver Sky

MODS: Better Built alum toolbox w/lights 2 inside 2 outside, lots of antennas, CB/Ham/Scanner/linear amp all mounted in custom made console, 10 disc CD player, DEI Sidewinder 5000 ESP alarm, undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, underhood light, TRD add-a-leaf (ordered), Lund bugshield, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, tinted windows, fuzzbuster hard wired, 4 block power terminal under dash, 12V Acc plug engine compartment, synthetic oils, fog light mod, cargo light mod, acc plug mod, map light mod, back seat angle mod soon, 2 TS stickers (back windows), 2 TS license plate frames (front, rear)

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Posts: 461 | From: San Antonio, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

dogzpaws
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posted 02-25-2002 01:41 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by SATundra:
Well I have had the synthetic motor oil in for about a month now and can say that "I" have noticed about a 1-1.5 MPG increase so far. Also I have noticed a definate quieting (not as load) sound to the motor. Just seems to purr now. The oil pressure does differ a little from the dino. What has anyone else noticed when switching from dino to synthetic motor oil. Good or bad.

SATundra
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I haven't noticed the MPG increase but I did notice that the engine has taken a different sound. And by different I mean it seems to be not as loud which also means you can more 'clearly' hear the the engine running. Does this make sense or am I just making this up?

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dogzpaws
2000 Tundra SR5 Access Cab V8 4x4 Jade

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Posts: 29 | From: La Mesa, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

SATundra
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posted 02-24-2002 08:23 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by nhparrot:
Joe,
When at the AVlube site ckick on the Automotive link and then scroll down to the bottom of the page - The Super Magnet Plug is there.
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Thanks Glenn I just didn't look far enough, thought it would have been under the plug.

SATundra

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2001, SR5, V8, 4x2, Access Cab, Metallic Silver Sky

MODS: Better Built alum toolbox w/lights 2 inside 2 outside, lots of antennas, CB/Ham/Scanner/linear amp all mounted in custom made console, 10 disc CD player, DEI Sidewinder 5000 ESP alarm, undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, underhood light, TRD add-a-leaf (ordered), Lund bugshield, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, tinted windows, fuzzbuster hard wired, 4 block power terminal under dash, 12V Acc plug engine compartment, synthetic oils, fog light mod, cargo light mod, acc plug mod, map light mod, back seat angle mod soon, 2 TS stickers (back windows), 2 TS license plate frames (front, rear)

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Posts: 461 | From: San Antonio, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

nhparrot
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posted 02-24-2002 06:48 PM
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Joe,
When at the AVlube site ckick on the Automotive link and then scroll down to the bottom of the page - The Super Magnet Plug is there.

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~Glenn~
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Posts: 493 | From: New Hampshire | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

SATundra
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posted 02-24-2002 05:55 PM
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George thanks for your vote of confidence on the Mobil 1 and filter. It means alot to me coming from you. Next is the Super Magnet Plug.
BTW I went to the Avlube.com site Glenn posted below, super plug, but only saw one for a big cat motor, guess we just need to call them for pricing and info.

Let me ask this here, as the old site info is gone. Under NORMAL driving conditions alot of highway miles, is 5-6,000 miles ok between oil and filter changes with the syn. What has YOUR experience been from the reports you have seen? Thanks.

SATundra

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2001, SR5, V8, 4x2, Access Cab, Metallic Silver Sky

MODS: Better Built alum toolbox w/lights 2 inside 2 outside, lots of antennas, CB/Ham/Scanner/linear amp all mounted in custom made console, 10 disc CD player, DEI Sidewinder 5000 ESP alarm, undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, underhood light, TRD add-a-leaf (ordered), Lund bugshield, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, tinted windows, fuzzbuster hard wired, 4 block power terminal under dash, 12V Acc plug engine compartment, synthetic oils, fog light mod, cargo light mod, acc plug mod, map light mod, back seat angle mod soon, 2 TS stickers (back windows), 2 TS license plate frames (front, rear)

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Posts: 461 | From: San Antonio, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

nhparrot
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posted 02-24-2002 05:12 PM
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aika

Super Magnet Plug
Toyota Sequoia, Tundra, 4Runner V6 Highlander, V8 Landcruiser Super Magnet drain plug. This is NOT your average magnetic drain plug! This plug uses a space age magnet 10 times stronger than regular magnetic plugs. So strong that it actually serves as a very effective filter, constantly removing ferrous from your engine oil. This in turn greatly reduces associated soft metal (brass/bronze/aluminum) wear and allowed the engine oil filter to more efficiently filter other non-ferrous contaminants. And of course if there is a failure occurring, it will be shown immediately on the Super magnet plug. The plug is beautifully machined from stainless steel which means it will last forever, as will the magnet structure. No more rounded off corners on the drain plug! Transforms oil changes into engine wear evaluation.

Available from avlube.com

When changing the filter, lube the gasket with a lttle fresh oil.

I have not replaced the crush ring on my drain plug in 8 oil changes.

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~Glenn~
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Posts: 493 | From: New Hampshire | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

aika
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posted 02-24-2002 02:32 PM
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supermagnet drain plug? what the heck is that? ive never heard of it before. also, with the mobil 1 filter, should i have lubricated it with a little bit of oil to seal the filter better. i figured i didnt have to because it said that it was internally lubricated. no leaks yet so i suppose i did just fine... with the drain plug- do i ever have to replace the little sealing washer?
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Posts: 154 | From: San Diego, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

georgeseq
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posted 02-24-2002 09:57 AM
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The Toyota OEM filters are a cut above most other manufacturer's, both air and oil. The Mobil 1's are another level above the Toyota's as are several other premium oil filters. The Mobil 1 uses a synthetic medium which filters effectively down to 10 microns and holds nearly double the contaminants of a paper medium oil filter. Same can be said of other synthetic media oil filters such as AC Gold, etc. Combine a high quality oil filter with a super magnet drain plug and you are 'there'..... I use either the AC or Mobil 1, along with super magnet drain plug on my Sequoia and the oil analysis results are about as low a level of iron I have ever seen in a gasoline engine.
George
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SATundra
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posted 02-24-2002 09:54 AM
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Well I have had the synthetic motor oil in for about a month now and can say that "I" have noticed about a 1-1.5 MPG increase so far. Also I have noticed a definate quieting (not as load) sound to the motor. Just seems to purr now. The oil pressure does differ a little from the dino. What has anyone else noticed when switching from dino to synthetic motor oil. Good or bad.

SATundra

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2001, SR5, V8, 4x2, Access Cab, Metallic Silver Sky

MODS: Better Built alum toolbox w/lights 2 inside 2 outside, lots of antennas, CB/Ham/Scanner/linear amp all mounted in custom made console, 10 disc CD player, DEI Sidewinder 5000 ESP alarm, undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, underhood light, TRD add-a-leaf (ordered), Lund bugshield, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, tinted windows, fuzzbuster hard wired, 4 block power terminal under dash, 12V Acc plug engine compartment, synthetic oils, fog light mod, cargo light mod, acc plug mod, map light mod, back seat angle mod soon, 2 TS stickers (back windows), 2 TS license plate frames (front, rear)

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Posts: 461 | From: San Antonio, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

Possum
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posted 02-24-2002 02:20 AM
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I just changed my oil to Mobil 1 5/30 and am using the Mobil 1 filter as well. I got the oil at Walmart and had to purchase the filter at the local auto shop. It seems to be a smoother drive but my gas mileage has dropped some. But then again, I have been a little more heavier on the foot.

Dan

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Posts: 624 | From: Houston, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

aika
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posted 02-24-2002 01:33 AM
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just got done changing my oil. used mobil 1 filter, and mobil 1 oil. wonder if it really is better. whatever- if theres a chance that its better then ill go with it. i wonder if ill be able to tell a difference just in how smooth my engine runs. i like to think i can tell when its running smooth or not. by the way, do all of you guys pull your brush guard off before changing the oil and oil filter? its a heck of a lot easier to get in there when its off... i found that the places i had taken it to before had lost TWO of the bolts and washers that hold my brushguard in, on top of losing my oil cap (made sure they replaced that with the oem oil cap though)...i guess its off to the dealer to get more bolts...
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Posts: 154 | From: San Diego, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

Topic: synthetic oils - yes or no?
SATundra
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posted 02-21-2002 08:58 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by aika:
do you guys think that a mobil1 filter would be better than the stock toyota filter? i have to change my oil in about 20 miles, so what should i use with mobil 1 oil (that synthetic stuff... ). would you think it didnt matter. if i remember correctly, the toyota filter was supposed to be pretty decent...opinions wanted!
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Yes the Mobil 1 filter should be even better than the Toyota. I got my Mobil 1 filter for $10 at a local auto parts store. Maybe 1 of these days Wal-Mart will even start carrying the Mobil 1 filters.

SATundra

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2001, SR5, V8, 4x2, Access Cab, Metallic Silver Sky

MODS: Better Built alum toolbox w/lights 2 inside 2 outside, lots of antennas, CB/Ham/Scanner/linear amp all mounted in custom made console, 10 disc CD player, DEI Sidewinder 5000 ESP alarm, undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, underhood light, TRD add-a-leaf (ordered), Lund bugshield, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, tinted windows, fuzzbuster hard wired, 4 block power terminal under dash, 12V Acc plug engine compartment, synthetic oils, fog light mod, cargo light mod, acc plug mod, map light mod, back seat angle mod soon, 2 TS stickers (back windows), 2 TS license plate frames (front, rear)

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Posts: 461 | From: San Antonio, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

KDTundra
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posted 02-21-2002 01:15 AM
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I used to use dino oil in my previous vehicles and had no oil related problems with 3000 mile oil/filter changes. I switched to Mobil 1 when we bought our 99 4Runner and 01 Tundra. I use the 7500 mile oil change interval per Toyota rep on both. I too was concerned about the oil filter as I've used Toyota's OEM on both (4Runner has 38,700 and the Tundra 7800). From previous posts, it seems that Mobil 1 oil filters as wellas Amsoil filters were rated superior in cleaning capability and dirt retention as compared to many others. Someone posted a web site where the test results were discussed. Toyota filters weren't specificaly mentioned in the test so you can't draw a conclusion about the OEM filters versus the aftermarket ones listed. I don't see you going wrong with a high end aftermarket filter. Some think it's a waste of money. I still believe you get what you pay for!!!
After all that, I'll probably go with the Mobil 1 oil filter (can't find Amsoil locally) because of the longer oil change intervals and protect the investment we have in the Toyotas. I was a little concerned about using the OEM filter with the longer oil change interval.
Good Luck!
Kev.
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Posts: 15 | From: Fulton, Missouri | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

aika
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posted 02-20-2002 11:09 PM
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do you guys think that a mobil1 filter would be better than the stock toyota filter? i have to change my oil in about 20 miles, so what should i use with mobil 1 oil (that synthetic stuff... ). would you think it didnt matter. if i remember correctly, the toyota filter was supposed to be pretty decent...opinions wanted!
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Posts: 154 | From: San Diego, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

EZ2BME
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posted 02-16-2002 09:22 PM
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I started using Mobil1 5w30 & Mobil1 filter at 500 miles. At 6k, continued with Mobil1, but switched to German filter. Some folks will still argue that dino oil works as well, and synthetics are a waste of money. That will always be debated.............

John

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01 Limited (Jade/Mica) 2WD TRD, XM Radio, Infinity spkrs, Alpine amp, TRD air filter, BORLA split-side catback, Hella Supertone horns.

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lelandstanford
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posted 02-16-2002 03:46 PM
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I just had the 1st oil change. Deutsche (Champion Lab) filter is about 1 cm shorter, too.

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SATundra
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posted 02-15-2002 02:20 PM
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Just thought I would start this thread again as it had been a popular one before the crash of '02.

BTW - I switched to syn oil 3 weeks ago at 16,000 miles. Mobil 1 5W-30 with Mobil 1 filter. Did notice that the Mobil 1 filter was shorter than the Toyota one. Heh.

Joe - SATundra

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2001, SR5, V8, 4x2, Access Cab, Metallic Silver Sky

MODS: Better Built alum toolbox w/lights 2 inside 2 outside, lots of antennas, CB/Ham/Scanner/linear amp all mounted in custom made console, 10 disc CD player, DEI Sidewinder 5000 ESP alarm, undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, underhood light, TRD add-a-leaf (ordered), Lund bugshield, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, tinted windows, fuzzbuster hard wired, 4 block power terminal under dash, 12V Acc plug engine compartment, synthetic oils, fog light mod, cargo light mod, acc plug mod, map light mod, back seat angle mod soon, 2 TS stickers (back windows), 2 TS license plate frames (front, rear)

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Posts: 461 | From: San Antonio, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

[cole45]

ok so I replaced the rear lsd oil with 75w90 instead of the reccomended 80w90 or SAE90. Is there a huge difference here and will this cause damage?

[KLS]

Syn 75W-90 will do an excellent job.


Ken

[M-bird]

I swear by synthetic oil. The only reason it needs to be changed every 15,000 miles is because filter technology hasn't caught up to the oil technology. I would not switch to synthetic if you have been running for a long time on dino juice.

[helica]

Originally Posted by M-bird

I would not switch to synthetic if you have been running for a long time on dino juice.

Care to justify that statement?

[RitcheyRch]

Thats what I have had in mine for a few years and have had absolutely no problems.

Originally Posted by KLS

Syn 75W-90 will do an excellent job.


Ken

[jcat]

Before i started using Mobil 1, i wrote to Mobil for test reports - report was very technical but essentially, they tested it in NYC on cabs and police cars, ran them for 150,000 miles without an oil change, then tore down the engines completely to check for cylinder, piston wear and found essentially none - engine parts were like new.

That convinced me.

Ran Mobil 1 in a 1992 grand am, 1995 Ford Areostar and in a 1990 toyota corolla for over ten years each, changing oil (and filter) about once/yr or 20,000 miles, whichever came first. Never had any problems whatsoever. When i finally got rid of those cars, had 195,000 miles on grand am, 190,000 on the ford and about the same on the toyota (can't really remember on that one). All were running fine when I got rid of them - only gave them away because relatives needed them at various times.

[bbfirebird]

Originally Posted by helica

Care to justify that statement?

I'll second the comment about not switching to synthetic after running regular oil for a large number of miles. My last car (a 2000 V8 Firebird) I purchased with 25k miles on it. It had always had regular oil up to that point. I changed to Mobil 1, and my oil pan gasket began leaking. The synthetic can leak through even tiny gaps that regular oil wouldn't go through.

As far as anything detrimental to the engine itself though, there's nothing negative that can happen to an engine by switching to synthetic, at any mileage. As long as you don't mind possibly replacing a gasket or two, you won't have any problems.

[census2000]

The original test was performed by a known Consumer Magazine. Engines were rebuilt to exacting specifications. Run 100K then torn down, parts weighed.

Advantages of Synthetic - Flows easily at cold temperatures. Race drivers swear by this stuff not at it.

Disadvantage - Expensive

Other findings
No difference between changing oil at 3 and 6 K.

Recommended maximum 12,000 miles because of additives.

Mobil 1, which I use, is nearly $7.00 per quart last time I looked.

I change at 5k and wouldn't sweat it if I screw up and it went to 7K.

I use Mobile 1 filters. $10.00

My brother In Law changes oil at 3K. His reasoning,"wear is caused by dirt and friction". He uses anything but F because he was .... :-)

Due to cost I'm switching to Quaker Syn and sticking with Mobil 1 filters.

My brother in Law, an excellent aircraft mechanic had an engine fail because of a oil filter failure. He will not use any filter that begins with the letter F. Related you think? CYA

Anyone here use Quaker Synthetic?

Hope this helps

Originally Posted by jcat

Before i started using Mobil 1, i wrote to Mobil for test reports - report was very technical but essentially, they tested it in NYC on cabs and police cars, ran them for 150,000 miles without an oil change, then tore down the engines completely to check for cylinder, piston wear and found essentially none - engine parts were like new.

That convinced me.

Ran Mobil 1 in a 1992 grand am, 1995 Ford Areostar and in a 1990 toyota corolla for over ten years each, changing oil (and filter) about once/yr or 20,000 miles, whichever came first. Never had any problems whatsoever. When i finally got rid of those cars, had 195,000 miles on grand am, 190,000 on the ford and about the same on the toyota (can't really remember on that one). All were running fine when I got rid of them - only gave them away because relatives needed them at various times.

[ICON]

As for the longevity of Mobil 1, I don't know how many people here got their oil tested or were just going off the assumption that synthetic oil can last forever but i got mine tested by Blackstone and @ 8,400 miles(mostly easy highway miles) and the TBN was 3.8 which means I'd be pushing it going to 10K. Those tests for Mobil going for 100K+ without oil changes, i don't buy it. There are some oil companies that claim to make a "lifetime" oil but i have yet to see real proof they'll do what the manufacturer claims. I do highly recommend synthetic oils and lubricants but they aren't a failsafe for anything.

[jaymz11]

reason why you dont switch on older engines is due to leaky seals and gaskets. syntheitc tends to leak on older gaskets. my z did.

[Infiltrator]

well on older trucks whats a couple of leaks gonna do? i dont understand i have a small oil leak but i just put a quart in every so often. if i switched to synthetic, would it leak more?

[HOGWILD]

Well i guess Mobil has been working on this for a while but seems they have a new product that they claim will not cause seals to start leaking in high mileage engines!! Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30
FAQ: Can I use synthetic oil in my Toyota?

[ddvk]

Mobil 1 HM oil isn't SM rated.

Now coming to HM oils, they have improved additive packages and seal sweelers, that expland the seals. It is good if there are leaks from oil pan seals, rear seals etc.

I have used it on my other vehicle to fix a small seepage from the rear seal and it kind of reduced the seapage.

But Mobil1 HM is not any great than dino oil like Pennzoil HM (they were the first to even come out with HM oils) etc. which incidently is SM rated.

[HOGWILD]

So school me on SM ratings!!