I read the garage topic of how to do it and almost all posts related to that topic, but still …
Last week I drained the ATF, dropped the pan and cleaned the filter. From what I have read here only 4 quarts of fluid are in the pan. I am not quite sure, but I drained at least 4.5 quarts (let it drain for a couple of hours). While the pan was still off I changed the front differential oil and to do that I lifted the front some. More fluid came out (how much I can’t tell (spilled on the floor). I poured in 4 quarts and the fluid was nowhere to be seen on the dipstick. So eventually I ended up putting in 5.5 quarts of AMSOIL ATF. The result of all this is trying to figure out if my ATF level is correct.
1) When I check the level in the morning (cold), the fluid is at the top mark for the cool range. After driving from work (13 miles, freeway or surface streets) it barely gets to the low mark of the hot range. The fluid is at best warm to the touch, the fluid on the dip stick that is. Is this normal or should I put in more fluid?
2) How can you figure out the temperature of the fluid? As far as I remember the normal operating temperature is about 165 F.
3) Since I mixed AMSOIL ATF with whatever was inside, does that affect anything? Do they mix OK?
4) Besides keeping the working temperature lower, do synthetic fluids have a different expansion ratios compared to dinos?
5) If the answer to the above question is NO, why do we have two ranges – cool and hot? Don’t we have to be concerned with just the cool one?
6) I think I know the answer to this one, but ... the fluid level is checked with the engine running and the transmission in Park or Neutral? I know there are cars that call for Neutral, when checking. And after all why does the engine need to be running? Can't they figure out how much fluid should be in the pan when the engine is not running?
7) Lastly, I know that the total fluid capacity is 14 quarts. What is the safe range before you start doing damage to the transmission? +/- a quart? Two?
I read the garage topic of how to do it and almost all posts related to that topic, but still …
Last week I drained the ATF, dropped the pan and cleaned the filter. From what I have read here only 4 quarts of fluid are in the pan. I am not quite sure, but I drained at least 4.5 quarts (let it drain for a couple of hours). While the pan was still off I changed the front differential oil and to do that I lifted the front some. More fluid came out (how much I can’t tell (spilled on the floor). I poured in 4 quarts and the fluid was nowhere to be seen on the dipstick. So eventually I ended up putting in 5.5 quarts of AMSOIL ATF. The result of all this is trying to figure out if my ATF level is correct.
1) When I check the level in the morning (cold), the fluid is at the top mark for the cool range. After driving from work (13 miles, freeway or surface streets) it barely gets to the low mark of the hot range. The fluid is at best warm to the touch, the fluid on the dip stick that is. Is this normal or should I put in more fluid?
2) How can you figure out the temperature of the fluid? As far as I remember the normal operating temperature is about 165 F.
3) Since I mixed AMSOIL ATF with whatever was inside, does that affect anything? Do they mix OK?
4) Besides keeping the working temperature lower, do synthetic fluids have a different expansion ratios compared to dinos?
5) If the answer to the above question is NO, why do we have two ranges – cool and hot? Don’t we have to be concerned with just the cool one?
6) I think I know the answer to this one, but ... the fluid level is checked with the engine running and the transmission in Park or Neutral? I know there are cars that call for Neutral, when checking. And after all why does the engine need to be running? Can't they figure out how much fluid should be in the pan when the engine is not running?
7) Lastly, I know that the total fluid capacity is 14 quarts. What is the safe range before you start doing damage to the transmission? +/- a quart? Two?
What you are doing is fine. Sounds like you filled it just right. The next time that you're driving for 45 minutes or so check the trans fluid (provided that you weren't driving 70 or so the whole time, that will screw things up potentially).
You mostly need to be concerned with the hot range. Exceed that by much and you'll blow fluid out or worse - do damage to the trans. It's a pretty universal rule that you DO NOT OVERFILL, but the effects can vary by make and model. Some just will blow out.
You're better off underfilling way too much and running into lack of adequate pressure than to overfill by too much.
Amsoil is fully compatible and mixable.
Some (older) cars are checked when in neutral, but the tundra isn't one of the.
Just double check you're fluid a couple of times after you've been driving a while (like when you get gas or get to work) as new, clean fluid can be hard to read.
Although dino's and Synthetic mix fine, why not consider a complete flush? I've always been of the opinion that mixing just gives you an expensive, less performing transmission/engine lubricant! Synthetics, (almost all will agree), provide superior protection and service when compared to dino oils.
As far as checking the level goes.....I agree with Alan: Do NOT overfill. After driving enough to make it "warm", (45 minutes or so of highway / surface streets), check it to be between the two marks and you'll be OK.
4.5 out of the pan with truck level is about what I see. Raise the front end and as you've found out you can get a considerable amount more.
As far as transmission temperature goes I installed a temp gauge recently and am yet to see over 125F and it took over half an hour on the highway to see this. The outside temp was only around 40F, however, I wasn't towing and am using synthetic. Key here is it takes quite a while to really warm up under these conditions and I could have driven all day and never come close to 165F. Summer will be very different.
I make sure I don't fill above the low 'hot' mark to allow for any expansion. Dave.
I think next time (60,000 miles) I'll do a complete transmission flush. My friend told me it was a big hassle, lots of fluid, etc. After reading on this site how it is done I regret not doing it.
I think next time (60,000 miles) I'll do a complete transmission flush. My friend told me it was a big hassle, lots of fluid, etc. After reading on this site how it is done I regret not doing it.
Yeah, it's soooooo easy. And once you have synthetic in the trans is *much* more likely to last miles and miles longer.
Check transmission fluid with truck idling, in park, on level surface. Amzoil synthetic works very well in the Tundra transmission.
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2000 Tundra Limited, TRD package, Towing package, Cold Weather Package, LSD, 265/75-16 Brigstone Revo's, Hellwig Anti-Sway bar, Firestone airbags, JBA Titanium coated headers, Gibson muffler, Filtran filter and Autometer transmission temperature gauge, Prodigy brake controller, Mito Gentex Auto dimming mirror with compass and temperature gauge, neoprene steering rack bushings.
2000 Honda Valkyrie Interstate. 1530 cc six cylinder, flow ported, valves triple cut, ceramic coated stainless tuned headers, black chrome mufflers, six single throat downdraft carbs with adjustable Dynojet needle valve kits, custom "Purple Heart" ghost flame paint job, too much chrome to mention, custom Big Boy Ultimate seats and backrests, AM/FM/MP3 player, 110 hp., 113 fp torque scarey fast.
Transmission fluid check
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