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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "No Throttle responce; Engine light on", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
well, in calling the parts dept. they have informed me that there is no such things as a pedal sensor, that i must be talking about the throttle lever assembly with sensor ($272.70). supposedly a different animal than the tps. trying to find a blow up schematic of the whole assembly now. i should probably just run out and findthat manual you mention.
well, in calling the parts dept. they have informed me that there is no such things as a pedal sensor, that i must be talking about the throttle lever assembly with sensor ($272.70). supposedly a different animal than the tps. trying to find a blow up schematic of the whole assembly now. i should probably just run out and findthat manual you mention.
I've tried to explain here that it's not called the TPS, but rather the TLA. There's pictures of the one that came out of my truck in my pics. Good luck, it's easy to replace. Oh yeah, Toyota said to save my receipt in case they recall it.
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well, in calling the parts dept. they have informed me that there is no such things as a pedal sensor, that i must be talking about the throttle lever assembly with sensor ($272.70). supposedly a different animal than the tps. trying to find a blow up schematic of the whole assembly now. i should probably just run out and findthat manual you mention.
It is the same thing just diffrent terminology. That is about what mine cost. It is the part that the throttle cable attaches to. There is a electrical connection and 3 screws holding it in place. I think it is maybe called a Pedal Sensor on the latter models since they moved it into the cab real close the throttle pedal.
I have an '02 Tundra. 2 times now the truck wouldn't idel on it's on. Now I have the same problem you have in that I have to push the pedel half way to the floor to get a response. I have notice your writings in that Toyota won't do anything about this problem. After reading about this I filed a complaint with NHTSA. Maybe if all of us do this that might push Toyota to do something about it. Here is the site for them. ODI - Office of Defects Investigation
First post.. Just wanted to say to everyone who has contributed on this board... I had the same problem with my wife's Tundra. Drove to the store under normal conditions. Re-entering truck, I had No throttle response and Check Engine light. I was at a loss what to do with this problem.. After Joining this board, and reading, and reading, and reading, I was able to find the problem as being pn 22060-50011. The LEVER ASSY, THROTTLE. Another interesting thing I learned about this trouble is that the code (IMHO) cannot be cleared with an OBD-II. After disconnecting the battery waiting a minute and reconnecting. I was able to start the car normally. Throttle response is normal and engine light is out. This board has saved me $1200 for the new Throttle body that the Dealership said I needed.. If and when the problem re-occurs, I know where to look.. Thanks again!!
First post.. Just wanted to say to everyone who has contributed on this board... I had the same problem with my wife's Tundra. Drove to the store under normal conditions. Re-entering truck, I had No throttle response and Check Engine light. I was at a loss what to do with this problem.. After Joining this board, and reading, and reading, and reading, I was able to find the problem as being pn 22060-50011. The LEVER ASSY, THROTTLE. Another interesting thing I learned about this trouble is that the code (IMHO) cannot be cleared with an OBD-II. After disconnecting the battery waiting a minute and reconnecting. I was able to start the car normally. Throttle response is normal and engine light is out. This board has saved me $1200 for the new Throttle body that the Dealership said I needed.. If and when the problem re-occurs, I know where to look.. Thanks again!!
Lucky for you! I have heard of several people who ended up buying the throttle body when they only needed a lever sensor.
also it can be the wires that go to the tps....i figured that out on my own after the dealership never figured it out over a few years, them having previously replaced the tps, throttle body, and throttle control motor.
Mine has done this three times to me...and it only seems to do it to me on days when I have washed the truck and then it got really cold...This could be the same problem that I am having. Every time I have shut it off and then started it right back up it was working just fine...i will looking into what you are saying. Thanks everyone!
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How much did it run you to replace the sensor? I am just wondering if this is my problem too.
I got mine for less than $200 dealer cost from a friend who worked at the dealership and put in on myself. I think they wanted $275 plus labor to do it for me. I got a check engine light when my went bad. Even if you did not see one you might get your computer read to see if it shows anything. Good luck.
I've been having this same problem; seems like it began when the really cold weather hit town.. My experience with the dealer was the same as all yours; the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, same cost to fix; but the part wasn't in stock. But whatever they did during the diagnosis ($70), it seems to have fixed it, however temporarily....
As to the part; APPS, p/n 22060-50011, i can't seem to find it by name or number, anywhere on a web search. Does anyone have suggestions on where / who to source this part from?
I'm the latest casualty due to this problem. This time it was my 16yr old driving with Mom. Boy, did I catch a rash of sh*t for that one! Engine wouldn't respond and engine light came on. 2002 Sequoia with 99500 miles.
On this particular vehicle does someone know exactly where this TLS is located outside/inside, pic of what it looks like, etc...? I don't have a Haynes and really don't want to have to buy one just for this...but I may try the public library if info fails here.
This site's still highly informative however!!!...kudos to all who offer their knowledge. Sponges like me appreciate it.
If your setup is like mine, it's not too difficult if you're fairly handy. I got a lot of good info from this thread that Mitchr started.
An easy way to look at it without getting bogged down in what the correct names are is to remember there are two sensors on the throttle body (I'm talking about my 2000 Tundra 4.7)
On the right (passenger side) there is the sensor that holds the throttle cable. It's either the pedal position sensor, or throttle lever sensor or somesuch name. It's held on by 3 screws. There is no adjustment to worry about. It's fairly simple to replace. I took my time and it took me about 30 minutes. I could do it the next time in about 10 minutes. Toyota factory part number is as follows from my receipt emailed to me from Toyota Parts Toyota Accessories New Parts Factory Original
LEVER ASSY, THROTTLE P/N: 22060-500111 $197.80
Shipping:$8.44
UPS - UPS Ground (Insured)
Handling Charge:$2.00
Order Total:$208.24 No sales tax (out of state).
(My local Toyota dealer wanted $400 + tax for the same part BTW)
On the left side of the throttle body (driver's side) is the other sensor, it's called the Throttle Position Sensor, or TPS. It's a bit more time consuming to install, but not too bad. It's still fairly simple. You have to remove the top cover with the 4.7 logo on it, some hoses, a steel bracket, etc, to get to the throttle position sensor. Once you have access to it, it's easy to replace. It's held on by 2 Phillips head screws. (don't drop the screws when you remove them). It has an adjustment range on it, but don't worry. The instruction manual talks about hooking up a meter to calibrate it after it's installed, but a mechanic buddy of mine said to just mark the position it's in originally and install the new sensor in the same spot. I did that and it works perfect.
I also ordered it from toyotapart.com:
Toyota factory part number: 89452-30140. List price $80.62, their price: $60.46. plus $4.14 shipping. No sales tax (out of state).
From all the research I did here and elsewhere, I chose to replace the Lever Assembly first (the $197 part) for 2 reasons; reading mitchr's helpful comments, I thought that was "probably" the problem, and second, it's a bit easier to replace. I turns out, that did not solve my problem, although the truck ran better with the new part installed.
Next, I replaced the Throttle Position Sensor (the $60 part). I took my time and it took me about an hour. Next time, I could do it in about 30 minutes. That solved my problem. The truck runs better than ever with both sensor's replaced.
My advice: If you're not sure which sensor is the culprit and you wanna roll the dice, replace the Throttle Position Sensor first (the $60 part).
If that doesn't work, you can always replace the other sensor and solve the problem for sure.
In closing, the $260 I spent fixing it myself sure beats the $1,400.00 the dealer wanted because according to them "we only replace the entire throttle body assembly, that's how we take care of that problem". Makes sense; they make more money and don't have to diagnose anything.
Thanks to mitchr too for putting me on the right track.
Thanks Ron, helpful as usual. What problem were you having?
I am having a strange problem where it seems I have to apply more force on the gas pedal than I used to. Not running that bad, just seems like the performance is off. When I mash on the pedal to really take off, it seems to hesitate then goes. At first I thought my brakes or driveshaft were having problems and I was feeling the extra friction. I checked all that out and it all seems fine. Regapped the plugs, replaced fuel and air filter, cleaned MAF and throttle body. Still can't figure it out. It feels like it did when I had an O2 sensor go out, but I have scanned it and I am not getting any codes.
Tones,
The problem I was having has been reported many times on this forum. It usually would happen when I came to a stop, or almost to a stop, say to pull into a driveway, or stop at a light. The engine light would come on, the tach would jump to about 1500 rpm, and there would be no response at the gas pedal, meaning, you could push on the gas and the engine would not respond at all. Turning the engine off and restarting it would get me going again until it happened the next time. It was unpredictable, sometimes it wouldn't happen for several days, and other times it would happen several times a day.