No Throttle responce; Engine light on

[LawyerRon]

Originally Posted by LawyerRon

BEEN THERE DONE THAT!

I had the same identical problem. Here's my tale:

If your setup is like mine, it's not too difficult if you're fairly handy. I got a lot of good info from this thread that Mitchr started.

An easy way to look at it without getting bogged down in what the correct names are is to remember there are two sensors on the throttle body (I'm talking about my 2000 Tundra 4.7)

On the right (passenger side) there is the sensor that holds the throttle cable. It's either the pedal position sensor, or throttle lever sensor or somesuch name. It's held on by 3 screws. There is no adjustment to worry about. It's fairly simple to replace. I took my time and it took me about 30 minutes. I could do it the next time in about 10 minutes. Toyota factory part number is as follows from my receipt emailed to me from Toyota Parts Toyota Accessories New Parts Factory Original
LEVER ASSY, THROTTLE P/N: 22060-500111 $197.80
Shipping:$8.44
UPS - UPS Ground (Insured)
Handling Charge:$2.00
Order Total:$208.24 No sales tax (out of state).
(My local Toyota dealer wanted $400 + tax for the same part BTW)

On the left side of the throttle body (driver's side) is the other sensor, it's called the Throttle Position Sensor, or TPS. It's a bit more time consuming to install, but not too bad. It's still fairly simple. You have to remove the top cover with the 4.7 logo on it, some hoses, a steel bracket, etc, to get to the throttle position sensor. Once you have access to it, it's easy to replace. It's held on by 2 Phillips head screws. (don't drop the screws when you remove them). It has an adjustment range on it, but don't worry. The instruction manual talks about hooking up a meter to calibrate it after it's installed, but a mechanic buddy of mine said to just mark the position it's in originally and install the new sensor in the same spot. I did that and it works perfect.

I also ordered it from toyotapart.com:
Toyota factory part number: 89452-30140. List price $80.62, their price: $60.46. plus $4.14 shipping. No sales tax (out of state).

From all the research I did here and elsewhere, I chose to replace the Lever Assembly first (the $197 part) for 2 reasons; reading mitchr's helpful comments, I thought that was "probably" the problem, and second, it's a bit easier to replace. I turns out, that did not solve my problem, although the truck ran better with the new part installed.

Next, I replaced the Throttle Position Sensor (the $60 part). I took my time and it took me about an hour. Next time, I could do it in about 30 minutes. That solved my problem. The truck runs better than ever with both sensor's replaced.

My advice: If you're not sure which sensor is the culprit and you wanna roll the dice, replace the Throttle Position Sensor first (the $60 part).

If that doesn't work, you can always replace the other sensor and solve the problem for sure.

In closing, the $260 I spent fixing it myself sure beats the $1,400.00 the dealer wanted because according to them "we only replace the entire throttle body assembly, that's how we take care of that problem". Makes sense; they make more money and don't have to diagnose anything.

Thanks to mitchr too for putting me on the right track.

Here's some photos showing the parts I replaced.

[mitchr]

Originally Posted by okieinu

I'm the latest casualty due to this problem. This time it was my 16yr old driving with Mom. Boy, did I catch a rash of sh*t for that one! Engine wouldn't respond and engine light came on. 2002 Sequoia with 99500 miles.

On this particular vehicle does someone know exactly where this TLS is located outside/inside, pic of what it looks like, etc...? I don't have a Haynes and really don't want to have to buy one just for this...but I may try the public library if info fails here.

This site's still highly informative however!!!...kudos to all who offer their knowledge. Sponges like me appreciate it.

I am not sure about the Sequoia but this is what I found on another thread in this forum about the Tundra.

"The ETCS-i (Electronic Control System-intelligent) continues to be used from the ’02 model. However, on the ’03 model, the accelerator cable has been discontinued and an accelerator position sensor has been provided on the accelerator pedal. A no-contact type throttle position sensor has been adopted on all models."

[d08187]

Hi everyone--I found these instructions for replacing the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor on another thread. What I was wondering is can you describe where it is located on an 01 Tundra? I haven't seen it yet and saw mention of it being inside the cab in one post, but wanted to be sure before I attempted. I threw a P1121 code today and had the same symptoms and am defintely not a mechanic, but something I think I could at least give a shot based on what I've learned in here. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks so much...what a great forum!

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the throttle cable from the APPS.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the APPS.
4. Remove the three sensor retaining screws and remove the sensor.
5. Before installing the APPS, make sure that the throttle plate is closed.
6. Install the APPS so that it's about 20 degrees to the left of it's actual
installed position.
7. Gradually rotate the APPS clockwise until it touches the throttle valve
shaft, then tighten the three screws securely.
8. Installation is otherwise the reverse of removal.

[mitchr]

Originally Posted by d08187

Hi everyone--I found these instructions for replacing the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor on another thread. What I was wondering is can you describe where it is located on an 01 Tundra? I haven't seen it yet and saw mention of it being inside the cab in one post, but wanted to be sure before I attempted. I threw a P1121 code today and had the same symptoms and am defintely not a mechanic, but something I think I could at least give a shot based on what I've learned in here. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks so much...what a great forum!

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the throttle cable from the APPS.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the APPS.
4. Remove the three sensor retaining screws and remove the sensor.
5. Before installing the APPS, make sure that the throttle plate is closed.
6. Install the APPS so that it's about 20 degrees to the left of it's actual
installed position.
7. Gradually rotate the APPS clockwise until it touches the throttle valve
shaft, then tighten the three screws securely.
8. Installation is otherwise the reverse of removal.

I think if you have a throttle cable coming out of your firewall going to the throttle body you have the APPS on the throttle body and not under your dash. Check my post above about the changes related to model year. Good Luck.


Mitch

[AC]

I had my sensor go out again about 3 months ago. Thankfully a very nice parts guy at the Toyota dealer, say "that's unacceptable". He pushed the new parts box across the counter and said, "this one's on me." I thanked him and said, "this is why I buy Toyota."

[d08187]

Thanks Mitch. It was underneath the engine nameplate that says 4.7L. Had to look under there. The light went off today and all is well, but sounds like it will be back, so will probably go ahead and order the part soon.

[tundratrader]

Has anyone ever tried to figure out why this part is going out or intermitintly failing. I have had this problem several times and checked the codes. Twice I had just gotten my car washed and then gone into the cold, and one time I was trying to pull someone out of the snow when it was really cold, so I think that water is infiltrating and causing the problems for me. I have gone quite a while without the problem or cel so I am wondering if this is what is wrong with this part. I have not had the part in my hand but maybe there was a big patch of some that were not sealed properly, otherwise toyota would have had a big recall by now I would think. What do you all think about that. Does anyone have one of there old ones around, maybe it had a bad epoxy sealing or something. It just seams like this is a four year old thread about a dangerous malfunction but know one has tried to figure out why. Maybe I missed something.

[Cleotundra]

I have experienced this week the same problems described above on my 2006 DC SR5. I was going uphill when the vehicle suddenly lost propulsion and the engine light came on. Normal operation was reestablished after a few seconds, just to repeat this malfunction two or three more times on that same day while driving uphill. The engine indicator light came on the dashboard. Since then, I have been driving on the highway and on the city without problems. What is the procedure for replacing the TLA in the 2006 model? Is this the part I should try to replace? The tires low air pressure light came on that same day, although the tires air pressure was all right.

[Azgoldrat]

For what it is worth the TLA is just a large Rheostat. Think Slot car Controller or model train transformer. As to its failure mine was due to the contact metal getting a flat spot so it would drop out of range when used and the contact leaving metal on the ridges creating a short. My truck would either mosey or Rape ape. My TLA dropped out while making a turn in a busy intersection and that was it for me.I changed it and I have not had a problem since. Truck has been way more responsive and mileage has come up a bit too.
One Thing that changed too was the Cruise Control is not nearly as aggressive as it was before the change out. Before it was Mr Toads Wild ride Style cruise control. Now it is a bit more refined.
It took my truck about 700 miles to relearn the mapping and my driving style.
My truck was built 9/99 and the TLA went out at 116K
One tip is to use a #3 Phillips on the screws .....
Been There Done That Own the mug,movie,t-shirt and toys.
Az