Oil analysis of Royal Purple 10w30 w/3730 miles

[Jack Burton]

Hey Guys,

Thought I’d post my latest oil analysis. The lab was concerned about the copper levels on the last test and requested that I give them a sample halfway thru my next 7,500 mile change interval.

Here are 4 reports. One @ 5K, 10K, 22.5K & 26,148 miles. The first 2 analysis’ used RP 10w30 and the cheaper Toyota oil filter. The last 2 used RP 10w30 and a K&N Gold oil filter. The last 2 tests also had a filter wrap on my K&N FIPK filter. What a difference it makes in stopping dirt coming into the engine. The K&N oil filter is doing a great job as well. JB

WEAR METALS-
Iron- 11, 11, 6, 4
Chromium- 0, 2, 0, 0
Lead- 4, 12, 3, 3
Copper- 44, 20, 20, 13
Tin- 1, 11, 4, 4
Aluminum- 4, 5, 2, 2
Nickel- 0, 4, 0, 1
Silver- 0, 1, 0, 0

CONTAMINANTS-
Silicon- 43, 16, 11, 8
Boron- 56, 5, 1, 0
Sodium- 286, 67, 28, 16
Potassium- 3, 1, 1, 1

ADDITIVES-
Magnesium- 295, 54, 17, 11
Calcium- 2046, 2139, 2063, 2064
Phosphorus- 1007, 1246, 1083, 1140
Zinc- 1193, 1276, 1161, 1206
Molybdenum- 95, 164, 163, 147

PHYSICAL ANALYSIS-
Fuel- A, A, A, A
Water- 0.0, <0.1, <0.1, <0.1
Glycol- N, N, N, N
Visc/ 100c cST- 9.2, 9.7, 10.1, 9.9

Soot- <0.1, <0.1, <0.1, <0.1
Oxidation- 16.00, 17.00, 20.00, 17.00
Nitration- 9.10, 8.40, 9.00, 8.00

“Wear levels appear to be normal. No corrective action indicated by tests performed. Continue normal PM & sample interval.”

[THarms]

why did the magnesium drop so much?? Did RP change additive packages in their oil?

[KLS]

30 wt. is 9.3 cSt to 12.49 cSt, so that first sample sheared a 20 wt., and the rest of the samples stayed at 30 wt. All in all, it's showing how a new engine gets cleaned up.


Ken

[Joe]

Your copper levels seem perfectly normal - You will continue to get high copper readings until your external oil cooler core is completely oxidized. The core is made of cooper and will continue to leech cooper into the oil until it becomes fully oxidized. If you would see the copper readings start to climb or spike in the distant future you might have reason to think a bearing was going out but that shouldn't be a concern with the readings you've received so far.

[Verndog]

Thanks for the info Jack!

I've been running the K&N golds in my truck, and asked around but found not many were using. So I'm pleased to find out they seem to test well!

Oh ya BTW....have you installed the UD pulley? Want to see if oil analysis is with pulley installed.


Kevin

[Jack Burton]

Originally Posted by Verndog

Thanks for the info Jack!

I've been running the K&N golds in my truck, and asked around but found not many were using. So I'm pleased to find out they seem to test well!

Oh ya BTW....have you installed the UD pulley? Want to see if oil analysis is with pulley installed.


Kevin

Hiya Kevin,

I checked around and heard good things about the K&N Gold filter. It has a good high flow design that seems to work well w/our engines. I pay $8.97 delivered from Pace Performance.

Haven't installed the u/d pulley yet. Still want to get a dyno w/the stk air box before the headers go on. (I have a feeling I might go with the S&S headers instead of the JBA's...) The pulley will go on after I dyno the header install. I'll post my UOA a.t.t. JB

[Stooge]

The oil analysis highlights just how dirty a "new" motor is and how it "cleans up as it breaks in." It also shows that the oil should be changed alot sooner when new to help the process. I've had a 100% success with changing the oil and filter at 500, 1000, 3000 and then switching to synthetics at 5000, and then following a four times a year, about 5000 mile oil/filter change schedule with synthetics. My longest running motor - 1987 Dodge Shadow - 2.2 liter Turbo 1 motor, no problems, no leaks, one turbo, 425,000 miles!!

[KLS]

I was thinking that 5000 mile oil drain interval with synthetic oil is too short, but 425,000 miles on one of Dodge's turbochargers is really impressive.


Ken

[kjsayers]

I have just over 3100 miles on my tundra. I changed the oil at 1000 and 3000 miles with Mobil (not synthetic). I do a lot of short trip driving and I don't put a lot of miles on. I have read that with these sort of driving conditions I should not use synthetics. Or atleast not go long periods with synthetics say 6 months and only 6000 miles driven. What does everyone think?

[KLS]

Nothing wrong with synthetic oil in your situation, but probably not worth the cost. Good conventional oil changed every 3 months is probably a good plan for you.


Ken