Manual Hub Conversion

[so40]

I originally posted this in the Engine and Drivetrain forum but did not get any replies, so I thought I would try it here in the garage section.

I have tried to keep up with all the threads concerning the manual hub conversion over the last year or so. This is something I really would like to do. Those of you that have this conversion (BirdDog0 flyin6 and any others), are you still satisfied with the conversion?

ORS has the price at $1039.00 for this kit at this time. I know this seems to be a quality kit, but is anybody else making this kit?

Is there any way to do this any cheaper (just the parts) and still use quality parts? I was hoping the kits might get cheaper, but it doesn't appear that they will.

Did any of you ever install a "rocker type toggle switch" in the 4 wheel high factory circuit to keep from accidentally engaging the front end while moving? If so, was it hard to do? It seems like it should not be too hard to do.

I wonder how many people would be interested in this if we could find the "right price range" for this conversion?

Thanks for any info or thoughts.

Mike

[DevinSixtySeven]

the conversion rawks . 2lo is a great thing to have...

i would be interested in a safety switch. ive heard about an f16-style toggle switch from joe, a cutoff style switch like that would be perfect, it could easily be inlined with the 4hi switch i'd think...

what were you thinking?

-sean

[dyogim]

BDO is in Korea(military) and very seldomly checks this sight. He won't be back in the US for a few months, I believe.

[so40]

Originally Posted by DeepStealth

the conversion rawks . 2lo is a great thing to have...

i would be interested in a safety switch. ive heard about an f16-style toggle switch from joe, a cutoff style switch like that would be perfect, it could easily be inlined with the 4hi switch i'd think...

what were you thinking?

-sean

Sean...

Yes. I am talking about an aircraft type rocker switch. You have to flip the cover open then move the toggle to the on position. I haven't looked at any diagrams or looked at the wires behind the 4High switch, but I would think you could find the wire that activates the circuit, break it and put it "inline" with the rocker switch.

Other than pressing out the old bearings, is this a hard conversion? Have you heard of any other companies making a kit like this? I really want to do this, but it IS expensive.

It does not have to be a real "aircraft" type switch. I have seen switches like this at Auto Parts stores.

Thanks

Mike

[DevinSixtySeven]

the kit is extremely high quality, several of the parts are manufactured specifically for offroad solutions for the kit. im assuming youve read their whit paper, there's also an article on offroad.com where they installed the kit in a tacoma. mike @ offroad solutions is an excellent help if you have really nitty gritty technical questions about the kit.

the bearings are the only difficult part, this is the one part i'd highly recommend having done for you unless you're familiar with a bearing press. honestly, given the time and toil involved, it was worth it for me to pay the dealership for the install--just find a service writer and tech you're comfortable with (for those of you in dayton, voss toyota on hwy 35, isaiha (writer) and dave (wrencher) are a great help, dave was willing to tackle the install after seeing the instructions and all the parts beforehand.

if you do get the kit, i have the 4-pin socket for the stake nut (203 ft-lb!), i'll letcha borrow it if you pay the shipping there and back--it's normally about 70 bucks, and hard to find.

if i'd joined the AF outta high school like i once contemplated, i'd know exactly the switch you mean . i do however know the style...inline is exactly what i was thinking, mounted to the left side of the hi/lo buttons. ive noticed the 4wd buttons are awful close and very similar to the recirc button.

-sean

[wylcat]

thought I would bring this one back in case anyone has heard of another company producing a manual hub conversion kit. As best I can tell Performance products are not selling them anymore and was wondering why they stopped, was there a problem with them or what? I like the idea of manual hubs but at just over a grand that just seems too pricy to me.

[keiphers]

Originally Posted by wylcat

thought I would bring this one back in case anyone has heard of another company producing a manual hub conversion kit. As best I can tell Performance products are not selling them anymore and was wondering why they stopped, was there a problem with them or what? I like the idea of manual hubs but at just over a grand that just seems too pricy to me.

No problems. From what I've heard, the kit is absolutely amazing. I doubt PP was selling enough to justify carrying it.

I'm getting the kit in a few months, so I'll keep everyone updated. I'm definitely not doing it myself though. I've heard it's tricky.

[DevinSixtySeven]

like i said before, the only tricky part is the presswork...have someone experienced do that part. so far theyre working out great...it's really nice to be able to use low range without having to be in 4wd.

i dont remember performance products offering a manual hub conversion for our trucks. i know theyve offered manual hubs in the past, but i thought those were replacements for the oem locking hubs...a conversion to a locking hub for a vehicle equipped with a.d.d. is fairly complex, which is why it's expensive and custom made.

-s

[leadsled]

DevinSixtySeven

What is the "4-pin socket for the stake nut"?

If this is needed to dismantle the front of my Tundra, I would like to purchase one. Where did you get it? Part Number?

Thanks.

leadsled

[DevinSixtySeven]

it's not for the breakdown, it's for assembling the new hubs. the new bearing and hub are held in place by a lock ring, and the locking mechanism sits inside the lock ring. because of its size and position, the lock ring can't be tightened by a standard socket or wrench, it uses pin holes similar to an adjustable coilover collar, but the holes on the lock ring are perpendicular to the plane of the lock ring rather than radial. it's necessary because otherwise there's no way to develop 203ft-lbs torque to set the lock ring. it's just a very large socket with four pins sticking out the end like fingers.

-s

[keiphers]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

i dont remember performance products offering a manual hub conversion for our trucks. i know theyve offered manual hubs in the past, but i thought those were replacements for the oem locking hubs...a conversion to a locking hub for a vehicle equipped with a.d.d. is fairly complex, which is why it's expensive and custom made.

-s

PP actually carried the ORS kit for a time. That was where I first saw it. But, I'm no mechanic by any means and don't have a huge variety of tools. Would it be best for me to take my truck to the shop?

[DevinSixtySeven]

oic.

yeah, take it to the shop...but take the parts to the shop first, with instructions, and see if one of the mechanics has done something similar in the past, knows how, figures they can do a perfect job, etc...it's easy except for the press work, figure 6 to 8 hours of labor tho, mostly because of the press work. to save them time and you money, take your skid plate off yourself first, and break loose the upper ball joint studs with a puller tool. these two items will save them some time and frustration.

frankly i have the tools and knowledge to do everything except the press work, but considering the press work is the majority of the labor cost, might as well pay a guy to assemble the rest for you while you're at work.

-s

[keiphers]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

oic.

yeah, take it to the shop...but take the parts to the shop first, with instructions, and see if one of the mechanics has done something similar in the past, knows how, figures they can do a perfect job, etc...it's easy except for the press work, figure 6 to 8 hours of labor tho, mostly because of the press work. to save them time and you money, take your skid plate off yourself first, and break loose the upper ball joint studs with a puller tool. these two items will save them some time and frustration.

frankly i have the tools and knowledge to do everything except the press work, but considering the press work is the majority of the labor cost, might as well pay a guy to assemble the rest for you while you're at work.

-s

Yeah, thanks for that info. Good news though, an old friend of mine is dating a guy that works at the 4x4 shop, so I'm either getting the install for $200 or for FREE . So this could be happening sooner than I expected.

You have them right now, correct? Have you lifted any more? I know flyin6 has them and lifted to 4" with a Total Chaos uniball and a couple different sets of coilovers that he's tried.

[DevinSixtySeven]

Originally Posted by keiphers

Yeah, thanks for that info. Good news though, an old friend of mine is dating a guy that works at the 4x4 shop, so I'm either getting the install for $200 or for FREE . So this could be happening sooner than I expected.

You have them right now, correct? Have you lifted any more? I know flyin6 has them and lifted to 4" with a Total Chaos uniball and a couple different sets of coilovers that he's tried.

the guy at the shop may balk when it's time for the presswork, just so you know (in case you havent read the old post from the install on my truck)...but 200 is a great price if he does charge you. make sure you find out what his favorite brew is, and hook him up good.

i'm lifted to roughly 4" in front...lotta space. make sure you have tw saws and uniball uppers tho, running the 12" straps...also get the 911 inner cv boots, dunno about good outers, one of my downeys is already torn. grab the diff drop kit if you havent already. basically, there are a few other details to take care of besides the hubs, but the only critical one is the 911 inner boots...the rest can be done at any time, and mostly aren't necessary unless you lift to 4".

-s

[keiphers]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

the guy at the shop may balk when it's time for the presswork, just so you know (in case you havent read the old post from the install on my truck)...but 200 is a great price if he does charge you. make sure you find out what his favorite brew is, and hook him up good.

i'm lifted to roughly 4" in front...lotta space. make sure you have tw saws and uniball uppers tho, running the 12" straps...also get the 911 inner cv boots, dunno about good outers, one of my downeys is already torn. grab the diff drop kit if you havent already. basically, there are a few other details to take care of besides the hubs, but the only critical one is the 911 inner boots...the rest can be done at any time, and mostly aren't necessary unless you lift to 4".

-s

I'm definitely going to hook the guy up if he follows through. Probably shouldn't say this here, but he's a fan of the ganja, so I'll find a way to hook him up that way. I've got some hippy friends so it'll work. They've done manual hub conversions before so I think they know what they're doing. But, I've got Fabtechs, Chaos Uniballs, no limit straps, 911 inner, racing outer (forget what brand, but they're very nice), and the diff drop. Will I be ok? I got the Fabs cause that was the only thing I could get locally, and I didn't know much about SAWs and Donahoes. If I get a new coilover, I'd go TW SAW or Donahoe longer travel, not regular. But, I'd rather not get a new coil just yet.