I am thinking of getting a nitrous kit from NX Express (55 shot) and I have some qouestions.
1.Does nos void warrenty.
2.If you have a kit where did you put the bottle.
3. Wet or Dry.
4.Where should I mput the nozzles.
5. Is it worth voiding the warrenty.
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I am thinking of getting a nitrous kit from NX Express (55 shot) and I have some qouestions.
1.Does nos void warrenty.
2.If you have a kit where did you put the bottle.
3. Wet or Dry.
4.Where should I mput the nozzles.
5. Is it worth voiding the warrenty.
I'm still installing mine. It's an undercover job. My wife doesn't know about it.
1. I would be suprised if it doesn't void the warranty.
I wonder if it's against the law for the street? The officers I've talked to just said "They didn't know if it was against the law or not and just don't tell them you have it".
2. Still searching for the right place. Mine is in the bed of the truck right now. One guy on this forum said he put his by the battery mount under the hood. Not enough room there for my bottel.
3. Wet.
4. See attachment.
5. No! But will that stop you?
don't want it under the hood, and don't want it in the cab, obviously
there's room behind the fender quarter panels (assuming that's what they're called) - either in front of passenger rear wheel or behind either
don't relish the idea of having to crawl under the truck so looks thinking about making a locking box in carbon fiber - wouldn't be too hard once i've measured and built the male mold from styrofoam
and flange it to cover the opening i'll have to make in the fender panel
possibly thought about a bull bar with a box where the winch would go
but down the road i may want to put a winch
other than that, only othe choice would be in front end of the bed, again in some sort of locking box
My bottle wouldn't fit under the bed in front of the rear wheel. I think I have a big bottle. Going to see of there is enough room behind the rear wheel.
Zex offers a remote bottle opener for about $241.
Freezy74
I'm still in the process of installing mine. So that my wife won't find out I only do a little work here and a little work there on it. All I have left is the hot wire, switch and re-install my bottle in an out-of-sight location.
Who wants to explaine to a non gearhead why I want nitrous.
Just going with the 55 shot. Don't want to mess with the timing.
No 1/4 mile tracks with time and lights out here in the sticks.
your is a zex dry kit or is it the single shot fogger??
The Zex kit I have is a wet kit. It only comes on at wide open throttle and stays on as long as I have my foot in it or the bottle goes dry.
Also! I'm just starting to play the nitrous game and I'm sure there are people on this forum that know far more about it than I do. But I will answer all the questions that I can.
Has anyone found the perfect spot for the bottle? I know where I'd put mine. I'd glass an enclosure in my bed box for the bottle (with remote bottle opener), then cut holes in the box for the hoses. Is there a way to run the hoses without having to cut the actual bed?
As for the kit, I'd go ZEX, NX, or Venom, but I don't know which. What type of system is the best? I think that one that turns on at WOT (after arming) would be the easiest / safest.
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It holds 10 LBs of nitrous.
Cylinder is 6 1/2" wide. 9" on the mount.
20" tall to the handle.
I haven't found the perfect spot for the cylinder yet (other than the truck bed) and I'm running out of areas to wedge it in any way possibly. I'm going to look around some more this week end.
There are some plastic oval plugs in the front of the bed that you could cut with a hole saw to bring the feed hose in.
bottle that big isn't going to fit in the cavity behind the
rear wheel either - bottle is bigger than i thought
might be possible under the bed, with an access door in the floor of the bed
one thing nice about working fiberglass or carbon fiber, you can lay it up on the floor where you're going to put the cut out for the door,, then after it's cured (hardened) you've got your door that wouldn't appear to be any different than rest of bed floor if you got it rhino lined or any of the hard spray in liners
door would be visible to the careful eye, but not to someone casually looking
think there is room on the side opposite from the fuel tank but again, don't have the underside memorized
if you did want to go that route, i'd at least re-enforce the edge of the opening, with some unidirectional fiberglass tape, about a 2 inch path all the way around, 2" measuring from where the edge of the cut would be - the corrugated surface of the floor bed, with the unidirectional tape doubling the ribs, should be enough to bring the floor stiffness back to what it was
and the door, can add somemore torsional stiffness if it's executed right
email me if you're interested in going that route and i can give you some input and direction on learning fiberglass and epoxy resins
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