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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "S&S Long Tube Headers Installed, Yeah!!", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Is this on the O2 sensors in front of the cats? I have not crawled under there to look at the connections. Any idea of how much unshielded wire is exposed there to work with?? Shoot, a simple soldering fix is nuthin!
Yes, plus the left rear sensor. Butt connectors and heat shrink would work fine. I used 18 guage wire on mine and IMDONE'S extensions. Loren can supply you with the wiring setup by color coding the extension wires.
OK, I am finally getting around to installing these babies! I got everything removed today and I've got a buddy to help me with the install tomorrow. I've got two questions:
1) How many people used the stock exhaust studs & nuts as opposed to the bolts provided by S&S and what are the advantages/disadvantages?
2) The installer who put in my flowmaster 40 cut the flange off that the rear of the Y-pipe would connect to. I guess I'll have to remove everything and install the headers and Y-pipe, then take it to a shop to have them connect the Y-pipe to the FM40(by welding I guess). Is there any problem , other than noise, with driving it with nothing after the Y-pipe straight to the muffler shop?
Thanks for your help on this.
Link
__________________ White 2000 SR5 4x2 Tundra
22x9.5 ADR Magnus wrapped in Toyo Proxes S/T 305/40/22, S&S long tube headers & Y-pipe, R.A.P.S., Trenz grill, clear corners, X-Pel Clear Bra, HID Conversion Kit, 55W auxiliary reverse lights, Sir Michaels roll pan w/ hidden hitch, EuroTails, DeBadged, Granite dash kit, IS color keyed bumper, fender flares & mirror covers, Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar, CST leather interior, sound deadener all 4 doors, rear wall and floor pans, Nu-image guage cluster & A/C panel, blue split loom, PPD billet TB cover and fuse box cover, painted calipers & drums, dropped the rear 2" w/Belltech 6400, Color-keyed body side molding, Alpine H/U, Archos 20GB Jukebox Multimedia wired to H/U, JBL 1200.1 pushing 2 RE XXX 10s in a custom console box, RF 551X pushing Diamond Audio M561 comps in the doors and Alpine SPR-175 comps in the kicks, and JL Audios in rear straight from the H/U
Stock studs & nuts. Why...because they fit just right. I didn't even try the others. The E-9 (or was it E-10) socket is just the right thing to remove the studs.
Did the muffler shop cut off the donut joint in front of the original muffler? That's what you'd connect to if it's there. I bought a Felpro gasket for that joint...it's used on GM cars, and the Felpro one sealed better on my truck that the S&S gasket. (This gasket is about 3/8" thick with chamfered ends.)
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
OK, I am finally getting around to installing these babies! I got everything removed today and I've got a buddy to help me with the install tomorrow. I've got two questions:
1) How many people used the stock exhaust studs & nuts as opposed to the bolts provided by S&S and what are the advantages/disadvantages?
2) The installer who put in my flowmaster 40 cut the flange off that the rear of the Y-pipe would connect to. I guess I'll have to remove everything and install the headers and Y-pipe, then take it to a shop to have them connect the Y-pipe to the FM40(by welding I guess). Is there any problem , other than noise, with driving it with nothing after the Y-pipe straight to the muffler shop?
Thanks for your help on this.
Link
I'm using the stock studs and nuts. Reason...they will hold better then the provided bolts because the locking nuts wont back down, more peolpe used the stock from what I remember reading.
Woops....this is long tubes...My Y pipe is gone for true dual as well...and that is why I had to go with short tubes, they bolt right to the stock cat pipes.
I re-used the stock studs and nuts, didn't even attempt using the bolts in the kit. Advantage for me is that I was working alone and could hang the headers on the studs during the install. BTW, I found I only had to remove the top studs on the back 3 ports to get the headers on (maybe the bottom one on the back too ... can't remember). 9/32 12-point socket got the studs out for me.
The donut flange gasket in my kit didn't fit the OEM flange, as others have ran into. I had the FEL-PRO on hand, but I could never get it aligned good enough for a complete seal. The truck is going to the shop on Monday to get this joint welded. Other than waking the dead, there will be no harm in driving without your muffler.
Good luck on the install. Use Tremo's and others pointers. Patience, patience, patience. I did 99% of the install through the wheel wells with long extentions and a u-joint. The bottom nuts on the inside ports are a beeaatch.
I'll be close the computer tomorrow, PM me if you have any questions ... but my guess is that you will be fine (despite the fact that a couple of Sooner's are doing the work )
I'll be close the computer tomorrow, PM me if you have any questions ... but my guess is that you will be fine (despite the fact that a couple of Sooner's are doing the work )
LMAO! Now THAT'S funny!
I appreciate the offer and I'll probably take you up on it. Hopefully, things will go smoothly and I won't need to take you up on it. In fact, I don't know how bad things would have to get fo rme to look to a Husker for help! BTW, Congrats on the ebay purchase! That's awesome!
Seriously though, thanks for the help and I'll be finishing up tomorrow. Everyone else do the same thing?
__________________ White 2000 SR5 4x2 Tundra
22x9.5 ADR Magnus wrapped in Toyo Proxes S/T 305/40/22, S&S long tube headers & Y-pipe, R.A.P.S., Trenz grill, clear corners, X-Pel Clear Bra, HID Conversion Kit, 55W auxiliary reverse lights, Sir Michaels roll pan w/ hidden hitch, EuroTails, DeBadged, Granite dash kit, IS color keyed bumper, fender flares & mirror covers, Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar, CST leather interior, sound deadener all 4 doors, rear wall and floor pans, Nu-image guage cluster & A/C panel, blue split loom, PPD billet TB cover and fuse box cover, painted calipers & drums, dropped the rear 2" w/Belltech 6400, Color-keyed body side molding, Alpine H/U, Archos 20GB Jukebox Multimedia wired to H/U, JBL 1200.1 pushing 2 RE XXX 10s in a custom console box, RF 551X pushing Diamond Audio M561 comps in the doors and Alpine SPR-175 comps in the kicks, and JL Audios in rear straight from the H/U
Got my headers installed a few weeks ago, and I'm lovin them. One thing I noticed with these headers is that mine sat on the motor mount. I ground down the mount yesterday, and noticed a good scrape right through the coating from the motormount. Anyone else run into this? I went with the magnaflow catback,
and took out the damper, and it sounds mean!
__________________
02 Tundra, SR5, desert sand (?) Current Mods:
Unichip, 1" body lift, Wheeler's coils, rotors, pads, rims, Bilstin HD shocks, S&S headers,
Magnaflow system, Line-X bed liner, seat covers, TRD air filter, 35% tint, custom sliders.
Hey,
Got my headers installed a few weeks ago, and I'm lovin them. One thing I noticed with these headers is that mine sat on the motor mount. I ground down the mount yesterday, and noticed a good scrape right through the coating from the motormount. Anyone else run into this? I went with the magnaflow catback, and took out the damper, and it sounds mean!
I think KLS said he had the same problem and had to grind them down just a bit.
__________________ White 2000 SR5 4x2 Tundra
22x9.5 ADR Magnus wrapped in Toyo Proxes S/T 305/40/22, S&S long tube headers & Y-pipe, R.A.P.S., Trenz grill, clear corners, X-Pel Clear Bra, HID Conversion Kit, 55W auxiliary reverse lights, Sir Michaels roll pan w/ hidden hitch, EuroTails, DeBadged, Granite dash kit, IS color keyed bumper, fender flares & mirror covers, Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar, CST leather interior, sound deadener all 4 doors, rear wall and floor pans, Nu-image guage cluster & A/C panel, blue split loom, PPD billet TB cover and fuse box cover, painted calipers & drums, dropped the rear 2" w/Belltech 6400, Color-keyed body side molding, Alpine H/U, Archos 20GB Jukebox Multimedia wired to H/U, JBL 1200.1 pushing 2 RE XXX 10s in a custom console box, RF 551X pushing Diamond Audio M561 comps in the doors and Alpine SPR-175 comps in the kicks, and JL Audios in rear straight from the H/U
Got my headers installed a few weeks ago, and I'm lovin them. One thing I noticed with these headers is that mine sat on the motor mount. I ground down the mount yesterday, and noticed a good scrape right through the coating from the motormount. Anyone else run into this? I went with the magnaflow catback,
and took out the damper, and it sounds mean!
I was working on the truck making sure the headers were still torqued up ... recalled this post and decided to take a harder look. Sure as hell ... one tube was making contact with the passenger side motor mount ... wtf, how did I miss this until now? At any rate, I took the mount loose and ground on it a little, and now all is well. Luckily, there was only some minor scuffing on the header.
I sure love these things! The S&S with my Spintech XL make the perfect sound for my taste. Now with my new huffer installed, ECU starting to learn, and the Unichip soon to come ... I need to start saving for new rubber .
I was working on the truck making sure the headers were still torqued up ... recalled this post and decided to take a harder look. Sure as hell ... one tube was making contact with the passenger side motor mount ... wtf, how did I miss this until now? At any rate, I took the mount loose and ground on it a little, and now all is well. Luckily, there was only some minor scuffing on the header.
I sure love these things! The S&S with my Spintech XL make the perfect sound for my taste. Now with my new huffer installed, ECU starting to learn, and the Unichip soon to come ... I need to start saving for new rubber .
I'm gonna go check this out now. BTW Brian, we were talking about your ebay purchase this weekend at the DFW meet. With those mods it shouldn't have taken you any longer to get down to Fort Worth than it did me!
__________________ White 2000 SR5 4x2 Tundra
22x9.5 ADR Magnus wrapped in Toyo Proxes S/T 305/40/22, S&S long tube headers & Y-pipe, R.A.P.S., Trenz grill, clear corners, X-Pel Clear Bra, HID Conversion Kit, 55W auxiliary reverse lights, Sir Michaels roll pan w/ hidden hitch, EuroTails, DeBadged, Granite dash kit, IS color keyed bumper, fender flares & mirror covers, Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar, CST leather interior, sound deadener all 4 doors, rear wall and floor pans, Nu-image guage cluster & A/C panel, blue split loom, PPD billet TB cover and fuse box cover, painted calipers & drums, dropped the rear 2" w/Belltech 6400, Color-keyed body side molding, Alpine H/U, Archos 20GB Jukebox Multimedia wired to H/U, JBL 1200.1 pushing 2 RE XXX 10s in a custom console box, RF 551X pushing Diamond Audio M561 comps in the doors and Alpine SPR-175 comps in the kicks, and JL Audios in rear straight from the H/U
I'm gonna go check this out now. BTW Brian, we were talking about your ebay purchase this weekend at the DFW meet. With those mods it shouldn't have taken you any longer to get down to Fort Worth than it did me!
What's the verdict, Link? Was yours rubbing? I'm buggin for headers after seeing yours!
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... wtf, how did I miss this until now? At any rate, I took the mount loose and ground on it a little, and now all is well. Luckily, there was only some minor scuffing on the header.
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