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This is a discussion thread titled "Tundra wouldnt Start !?!", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.


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Old 12-28-2003, 09:35 PM
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Default Tundra wouldnt Start !?!

When I came back from my week-long holiday excursion, I tried starting my tundra ('03/regcab/V6/auto/8500 miles) which had been sitting in the cold garage (for the week) and it wouldnt start! It would turn over once and then click click click. I was afraid it was a bad starter, since it wouldnt turn over more than once. However I jumped it with my (oh so reliable) chevy malibu and it started and has been fine since. Before I left, I was doing the cigarette lighter mod, though the truck started fine after the mod. I pulled the jumper wire and put the relay back in before jumping the truck, thinking it could be the problem. Really the truck hadnt been driven in about 10-12 days, but I had started it and let it run when doing the mod. Do I have a weak battery? Or is it a starter problem?
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Old 12-28-2003, 09:47 PM
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here is a test.

You need a test light (circut tester)

With all doors closed and power off.

Disconnect the negetive batt term. Clip the tester to ground then touch the batt neg witht the probe. If it lights up then you have something draining power.

Maybe you didn't close a door all the way and it drained the battery. Or the glove box.


Just a thought.....................

Alex
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Old 12-28-2003, 11:01 PM
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My glovebox doesnt have a light. Im pretty sure the door was closed because I always check if the cargo light goes off. The accessories all worked fine when I couldnt start the truck. It wouldnt turn over properly and made the loud click click click during several starting attempts. I hope its just the battery but if it is a starter then it should be under warranty. Even if its the battery Ill make them give me a new one, the truck is only 8 months old.
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Old 12-28-2003, 11:31 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by file014
My glovebox doesnt have a light. Im pretty sure the door was closed because I always check if the cargo light goes off. The accessories all worked fine when I couldnt start the truck. It wouldnt turn over properly and made the loud click click click during several starting attempts. I hope its just the battery but if it is a starter then it should be under warranty. Even if its the battery Ill make them give me a new one, the truck is only 8 months old.
Unless the dealer can replicate the problem they aren't going to replace the starter or the battery. Even if you have had the problem.

When my limited v-8 was 8,000 miles old once a month (maybe less) it would "click, click, click" on startup. Turn off, turn on and it would start fine then. Then over time it got progressively worse until I told the dealer I wanted the starter changed as I had to turn it off and on 3 or more times (95% of the time it worked fine first turn). There is no way this should happen at under 30,000 miles!!!

Three times I brought it in for "normal stuff" and complained and they finally replicated it and changed the starter. Of course, they checked the battery. (FYI, I have 80 watt bulbs for fog and driving and those do bleed off quite a bit of energy on startup *if* you leave the lights on when shutting down. They go on immediately when you turn the key vs a "normal" delay during crank up like on other vehicles. I still don't know if this is part of my particular issue. But even when I shut of the lights it would still happen occasionally.)

Guess what - 4,000 miles after the starter change it started it again.........

Damn, how could I have two bad starters? They checked the battery of course and said it was fine but I was suspicious of it (or a relay).

I actually put up with this occasional "mis-starting" until this winter. The battery is "okay" but the voltage was only in the 12.5 range sometimes a little lower like 12.3. On a "normal" vehicle this is okay, but it seems the toyota starter needs 12.4 or more volts - better to be in the 12.6 range. If you're lower due to battery drain (time drain or accessories) it will "click" on you.

I finally put in the largest optima battery I could find and the thing actually spins up so fast now that the rpms drop down significantly once the engine actually starts and I let go of the key. It leaps to life.

I've not had any of the "click, click" stuff since. I wish I had gotten the optima battery years ago.

On paper the heavy duty Toyota battery looks great, but in practice it's only "okay" to questionable . I wouldn't be surprised if the issue is your battery.

I'd also tell anyone - dealer warrantee or not - replace the factory battery with an optima or AGM type battery. They are about 70% more than a "normal" battery (about $160 for the biggest and baddest), but they work sooooooo much better. They are MUCH more resistant to battery drain from lack of use. Compared to the performance they are the cheapest battery in the long run.

You could leave your truck for 3+ months and it will start like you'd started it last the night before. It will even still start after 6 months. Try doing that with the factory battery.

You could try to "get some running time" out of the factory battery to make you "feel good", but I'd say the best thing is to put in an optima.

And in reality the factory battery shouldn't go "marginal" that fast but if you put in an optima you won't ever have to worry and can even put it in your next vehicle. Especially if you put in a D31M. That thing is a tank!


Alan
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Old 12-28-2003, 11:33 PM
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That's the classic sign of a run down battery. Check to see if it's low on charge and if that's all that's wrong, then determine why it ran down. Usually it's because something was left on. Does it have an "eye" on it for checking state of charge?
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Old 12-31-2003, 04:41 PM
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I checked the VDC of all 3 of my car batteries while in each vehicle but no lights or anything on. Just popped the hood and took VDC readings. None of them have under-hood lights.

Tundra (8 mos old, 8600 miles)-12.15 VDC
Malibu (2 yrs old, 19000 miles)-12.55 VDC
Tercel (8 month old die hard)-12.52 VDC

I checked the "eye" on the battery and its green which means charged. So do you guys think I can get a new battery based on VDC alone? This truck never seemed to jump to live like the other two cars when I start it. I dont want to get stranded somewhere. Id better get some jumper cables in the truck...
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Old 12-31-2003, 09:14 PM
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If it were mine, I would check the cells for being even with a hydrometer and then maybe run an individual check of the cell voltages. The hydrometer should show maybe 1260 - 1280 or so, and I don't like to see more than 25 points difference between the highest and the lowest. 50 points difference is considered acceptable though.

When checking the cell voltages, it might be a good idea to check first with nothing on, and then again with maybe the headlights on. Usually they will read about 2.1 vdc. If they aren't even, you've got a problem. With the cell covers off, you can do this by clipping a nail or old screwdriver to each of your voltmeter leads. Put a piece of wiper hose or something over the nail first, and carefully insert the nail into the cell opening just enough to reach into the electrolyte. Don't cram it down into the plates and damage them. On the end cells, you have to have one lead on the battery terminal. Add the readings of the end cells to get the total for the odd one. For example if you get .6 vdc at one end and 1.5 vdc on the other, then that's OK. The others should all read about 2.1 vdc. Another way is to just leave the one voltmeter lead on the terminal and move your other probe from one open cell to the next, adding them up as you go. If they read OK with no load, try it with the lights on and you might see the bad cell drop to something lower than all the rest. If you aren't comfortable working around batteries and electrical systems, you might want to get help from someone that is. Good luck because if you can prove that the battery is defective, they should give you a new one.
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Old 01-01-2004, 11:56 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by file014
I checked the VDC of all 3 of my car batteries while in each vehicle but no lights or anything on. Just popped the hood and took VDC readings. None of them have under-hood lights.

Tundra (8 mos old, 8600 miles)-12.15 VDC
Malibu (2 yrs old, 19000 miles)-12.55 VDC
Tercel (8 month old die hard)-12.52 VDC

I checked the "eye" on the battery and its green which means charged. So do you guys think I can get a new battery based on VDC alone? This truck never seemed to jump to live like the other two cars when I start it. I dont want to get stranded somewhere. Id better get some jumper cables in the truck...
That's too low. That's the same problem I was having until I got rid of my OEM battery (even if it is the heavy duty version) and went with the optima. FYI, I had the dealer check mine a couple of times and they said it was okay but in my opinion that voltage is too low. My voltage was a tad higher though. Remember you need to measure it after a fresh charge.

If it's below 12 volts after a full charge it's definitely bad. On another vehicle that battery might be just fine.

To properly check your battery without a load tester charge it up overnight (with an auto charger of course!!) and the turn your lights on with the brights on for about 2 minutes (or let the vehicle set around for at least 4 hours to let the charge bleed down).

A good battery should read at least 12.5 and many batteries will even read in the 12.8 range. That's fine.

In the 12.3 range I had problems with occasional mis-starts. The optima will hold a charge at way aboove 12.5. And it will do it for months. I can't remember from the chart exacly but even 3 months out the optima will retain it's fresh charge voltage. That's way (waaaaaay) better than a "normal" battery.

If after a fresh charge with a load to bleed off the surface charge (lights on for a couple minutes or time for the battery to die some) and it won't hold 12.5 volts I think you're going to have issues. I don't know if Toyota feels that way though. I never asked them what voltage they tested but on their equipment my battery was coming up fine.

I'd definitely hit Toyota up for a new battery after you test it with a fresh, full charge. Maybe the battery I had was substandard but rather than screw around with a new Toyota battery I just put the monster optima in and I'm very, very happy now. I just wish I had done it sooner.

No leaking ever, deep cycle, the maximum reserve possible AND the highest initial retained voltage possible (I think Toyota cheats on their rating). The optima is a great solution to a great truck.

Sure you can get a new battery from Toyota, but it's kind of like getting a "free" black and white TV to replace your old black and white TV. Gees, that's great, but *at the minimun* I'd rather have a color TV even if I have to my own money into it. What good is a free item if it's not really that great?

But if you can use a new battery in another vehicle - go for it. All of the batteries I had in other vehicles were better than Toyota's anyway so it was just a giant paper weight to me.

Alan
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Old 01-01-2004, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by file014
When I came back from my week-long holiday excursion, I tried starting my tundra ('03/regcab/V6/auto/8500 miles) which had been sitting in the cold garage (for the week) and it wouldnt start! It would turn over once and then click click click. I was afraid it was a bad starter, since it wouldnt turn over more than once. However I jumped it with my (oh so reliable) chevy malibu and it started and has been fine since. Before I left, I was doing the cigarette lighter mod, though the truck started fine after the mod. I pulled the jumper wire and put the relay back in before jumping the truck, thinking it could be the problem. Really the truck hadnt been driven in about 10-12 days, but I had started it and let it run when doing the mod. Do I have a weak battery? Or is it a starter problem?
You have a 2003 Tundra. If it's got less than 36K on it make it the dealer's problem.
If not have the battery load tested. Most of our Tundra’s came with a crappy battery.
If it passes - check for a draw. Pull the negative cable and hook up a test light between the cable and the battery post. Use a 12VDC test light with a 12VDC bulb. Not a computer circuit test light with a led bulb.
The light should dimly glow if you have no draws (I believe it’s about 128 milli amps). Brightly if you do.
If you have a draw start pulling fuses one at a time until the test light goes back to dim.
Other things that will cause a battery to go dead are
Cell phone charger = 6 days
Flash light charger = 4 days
Any light left on = 1 to 2 days
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