Got my S&S headers on

[KLS]

I'm impressed. I had no idea the truck would be this much more fun to drive. I only have to give it a bit more throttle, and it scoots!

As Imdone said, the headers seem to give the truck between 1/2 to 1 full gear. When driving the same route, at the same speed, in cruise control, on a hill where the truck used to downshift to 2nd, now it downshifts to 3rd. Or where it used to downshift to 3rd, it now downshifts to 4th with the torque converter unlocked.

Around town the truck just feel lighter...that's not an exact description, but it accelerates from a stop really quickly with just a bit more throttle than I'd normally use.

I like them. I only have about 200 miles on the headers so far, so the ECU is still learning, but it'll be fun. When I have a chance to make some long highway cruise control miles, I'll get a gas mileage check.

Installation was...interesting. Loren Barnes is a magician for figuring how to get long tube, near-equal length headers into our trucks. I started on the passenger side figuring that would be easier. I didn't know that the engine was offset to the right, so actually the driver's side went a bit easier...also, I had the knowledge from the first side.

For removals--both front wheels, the rubber flaps between the wheel wells and the engine compartment, the mud flaps (just because they're in the way), skid plate, oxygen sensors, manifold heat shields, manifolds & cats & studs, drop the front sway bar, remove the bracket holding the tubing for the rack & pinion, remove the forward most heat shields (put them back as soon as the headers are in place and before bolting the headers, and just put the headers on. Trust Imdone...install the oxygen sensor extensions before you put the headers up--no extension needed on the right rear. Use lots of good penetrating oil (WD-40 is near worthless), and if the nut is fighting you, alternately loosen and tighten it, spraying more penetrating oil, and loosening a bit further each time until it's off. Wait until you have the truck sitting back on it's tires before remounting the sway bar--get the straps lined up, 'cuz the bolts are easy to strip if they're not put in straight.

The oxygen sensor connectors have a small clip holding them together. Find the most exposed one, slide a small screwdriver under the clip, and see just how they unclip and slide apart. You may also want to remove the connector from the bracket that holds it--you'll need to do so on the right rear.

There's no problem with cutting the oxygen sensor wires and correctly splicing in longer wires. You really don't need the extensions, which is good, 'cuz the connectors are proving really hard to find.

It seems that Toyota has a couple of different style engine mounts. Imdone didn't have any clearance problems with his. I had to remove mine and even do some minor grinding on them for clearance--not enough to take away any strength, but just make clearance. Tip--if you need to remove the mounts, put them all the way forward between the engine and the frame as you slide the headers into place, then put the mounts in place. Put a piece of 2x4 or better under the oil pan--not touching the drain plug--and jack the engine up gently to take the load off the mounts. Call Loren at S&S if you have questions or need tips.

Oxygen sensors came out and went back in with no problems. I bought Toyota exhaust manifold gaskets, and S&S' gaskets work well elsewhere. I reused the original manifold studs and nuts.

Tools--Every configuration of 14mm wrench you can find...ratching box end Gearwrench is handy, deep socket, regular socket, wobbly socket, universal joint, long & short extensions, combination end wrench, offset box end wrench.... You'll also need some 10mm, 12mm wrenches, E10 socket, 9/32 box end wrench, pair of 7/16 end wrenches and pair of 9/16 end wrenches. 7/8 open end wrench works for the front O2 sensor.

If you're the type that gets frustrated and throws tools, don't even get started on this. If you're the type that can work through a challenge and feel proud of the job you've done, go for it.

I'm glad I got these headers.


Ken

[Dude Boy]

All I can say is I'm envious! I bet you didn't go to Carson to put them on, right? I would guess they have at least a couple feet of snow on the ground there.

When driving the same route, at the same speed, in cruise control, on a hill where the truck used to downshift to 2nd, now it downshifts to 3rd.

Is that with a trailer in tow? I can't imagine any hills around here steep enough to go into 2nd with cruise on. If that's without a trailer, I bet that really sets you back when it downshifts.

Wish I had 'em!

[KLS]

Didn't get to Carson...my buddy was busy shoveling the snow off his roof.

I haven't hooked up the trailer yet. You know how the cruise control is our trucks is set with too small a proportional band...it downshifts with the slightest speed loss. I wish I could reprogram the cruise control.


Ken

[DevinSixtySeven]

soooo...this engine mount thing...is it a difference between the mounts on an 01 and the mounts on an 00? was the fitment truck an 00? is there any way of really @#$%ing something up if the engine mounts need to be ground down for clearance?

also, couldja elaborate on the tools a little more ...i want to make absolutely certain i have everything i'll need.

thanks

-sean

[mandzach]

real nice post - basic walkthrough - good job
does anyone know of a member who now uses s&s headers on a supercharged tundra? - if so please post -some have told me that the s&s are great for normal engine but for the s/c engine short/large primarys work just as well -(lots cheaper ss auto's) -any input on this subject is welcome, thanks

[KLS]

rgerdes has a supercharged engine and S&S headers.

"                Before    After      Drag Radials 
Reaction       .739       .709       .658
I1             2.244     2.152      2.068 
I2             6.486     6.163      6.021
I3           10.017     9.460      9.298 
MPH (I3)     70.859   75.389     74.744 
I4              .000    12.242     12.072 
e.t.         15.620    14.753     14.574 
mph          86.043    92.844      91.075

"On the drag radial run my speedometer went past 105 due to the smaller diameter tire and the computer shut down the fuel about 20yards before the finish line. I know this comparison isn't perfect but if you look at the short times you can see the difference due to the torque that has been increased with the longtube headers. My exhaust is a Trd single outlet system. I am sold on the S&S headers. I only have 155 miles on since the install and IMDONE noted that the best performance is noted after about 500 miles."

I don't know about the engine mounts and the year. Maybe you can look at the drawings at a Toyota parts counter. I have a 2001 and I think Imdone has a 2000. I just removed enough metal to give about 1/16"-1/8" of clearance, and didn't remove too much for strength to be lost.

Tools...what questions? The left forward oxygen sensor would be removed better with the special oxygen sensor socket. Most other nuts use the 14mm, and depending on their location require a socket or universal or end wrench, or stubby end wrench. It's hard to make a listing...one brand of end wrench might be longer than another--if so, you'd need a stubby where I might get buy with just one wrench. My 14mm wobbly socket was too shallow to start and finish the nuts on the exhaust studs, so I needed the deep socket and universal on some nuts--the brand you buy might be deep enough.

Ask any questions you think of.
Ken

[DevinSixtySeven]

well, here's what i've got in 3/8" drive--14mm 12pt & 6tp shallow, 14mm 6pt deep, universal joint, 3" 6" and 12" extensions.

all ive got for wrenches is a regular 14mm short wrench, about 6" long, boxed on one end and open on the other.

sounds like i'll need a 14mm wobble socket.

anything else? it sounds like 14mm is the size that requires the most options.

for the wrench pairs, can a single wrench and appropriate socket be used instead, or is it a matter of clearance that requires a pair of wrenches for some tasks?

thanks

sean

[KLS]

Sean,

It's probably be best if you take a good look at what you have now, and also lay out the new parts under your truck and see how wrench access looks at flanges and near the crossmembers under your truck.


Ken

[DevinSixtySeven]

ken, how long did it take? you did this yourself, no? two days or so?

[KLS]

Sean,

With all the right stuff and a helper, one long day. With a couple of trips to the hardware store for a wrench that's shorter or longer than what you have, and working alone, and time out to watch the overtime of the football game, two days.


Ken

[mandzach]

Originally Posted by KLS

rgerdes has a supercharged engine and S&S headers.

"                Before    After      Drag Radials 
Reaction       .739       .709       .658
I1             2.244     2.152      2.068 
I2             6.486     6.163      6.021
I3           10.017     9.460      9.298 
MPH (I3)     70.859   75.389     74.744 
I4              .000    12.242     12.072 
e.t.         15.620    14.753     14.574 
mph          86.043    92.844      91.075

"On the drag radial run my speedometer went past 105 due to the smaller diameter tire and the computer shut down the fuel about 20yards before the finish line. I know this comparison isn't perfect but if you look at the short times you can see the difference due to the torque that has been increased with the longtube headers. My exhaust is a Trd single outlet system. I am sold on the S&S headers. I only have 155 miles on since the install and IMDONE noted that the best performance is noted after about 500 miles."

Ask any questions you think of.
Ken

well now the numbers are coming out - d0truji posted that with the ss auto's on his truck he gained about 9 h.p. on a 03's/c tundra - did rgerdes dyno befor and after ? if so thats the kind of info we can really use. thanks again.

[Imdone]

Originally Posted by mandzach

well now the numbers are coming out - d0truji posted that with the ss auto's on his truck he gained about 9 h.p. on a 03's/c tundra - did rgerdes dyno befor and after ? if so thats the kind of info we can really use. thanks again.

These are my before to after on a G-tech. This is net HP and TQ NOT a dyno HP and TQ therefore the #s are lower.
4x4 test on my truck with G-tech

If you check out my photos you will see some other graphs of my truck tested and Rgerdes baseline test. He and I have not been able to get together to do an after S&S install test yet. I will be posting one once we can.

[Dude Boy]

Hey Sean, one socket that you might want to get is a 3/8" drive 6 point "semi-deep" 14MM. They are not easy to find, so you might have to order it. One of those would have saved me a lot of grief when I put on the JBA's.

[PagalDesi4Life]

Think the S&S long headers would fit an 01 Sequoia? What about the supplied Y-pipe? I'm only curious...

[Imdone]

Originally Posted by PagalDesi4Life

Think the S&S long headers would fit an 01 Sequoia? What about the supplied Y-pipe? I'm only curious...

To date no testing was done on a Sequoia. We could not locate on to get it into Loren for fittment. I also havent found a double cab to take in yet either.

I have a buddy with one but he put on the SSAuto Chromes. We do know that the Y-pipe for the A-cab is different than the Y-pipe for the D-cab.