Has anyone seen a low price for the ARB air locker(rear RD89) anywhere? I've seen them for about $700.00. Does the rear kit also come wiht the compressor, hoses and switches?
After my recent off-road trip, I'm really considering a locker or a limited slip.
Does anyone have this on their Tundra or on any other rig?
A co-worker of mine does the rock crawling thing. He says most those guys prefer the Detroit locker. It makes the least noise locking and unlocking in and out of turns on the street. However, he also says that the air locker is the best way to go - ultimate off road and on road use. This is the way I plan to go.
Jesse in parts (ext. 3778) quoted me $599 for rear locker & $199 for compressor.
They will start shipping the front locker also in a few months (for the ultimate pull!). You will not need an additional compressor.
From what I understand, it shouldn't matter where you buy it because they have it drop-shipped to you from the US distributor. They have also started shipping the replacement bumper/winch/light kit/safari bar for the Tundra. It's $725 without the goodies. You will pay shipping on everything.
They are separate. You don't have to use their compressor. Some of the discovery tourers and safari guides already have a compressor for different tasks.
I'm running the ARB RD89 locker. The cost was $575 for the locker and $200 for the compressor. The RD90 locker will be the same price. If you just purchase the locker for self-installation you might have to pay a little more. Having it installed they'll quote a price from $550 to $575 and then boost the labor. Expect to pay $250 to $300 for the install. $150 to $200 for the compressor install. If you were thinking about re-gearing this would be the time to do it, as there wouldn't be any additional labor charge for re-gearing.
You only need one compressor to run both lockers. I have the ARB compressor. The ARB compressor can also be ordered with the air hose attachment. If you're so inclined you can install other compressors such as the York or Quick air models among others and with a slight modification they will run the ARB lockers and have more poop to air tires in less time and also run power tools. Just depends on how much you want to spend.
Originally posted by Joe I'm running the ARB RD89 locker. The cost was $575 for the locker and $200 for the compressor. The RD90 locker will be the same price. If you just purchase the locker for self-installation you might have to pay a little more. Having it installed they'll quote a price from $550 to $575 and then boost the labor. Expect to pay $250 to $300 for the install. $150 to $200 for the compressor install. If you were thinking about re-gearing this would be the time to do it, as there wouldn't be any additional labor charge for re-gearing.
You only need one compressor to run both lockers. I have the ARB compressor. The ARB compressor can also be ordered with the air hose attachment. If you're so inclined you can install other compressors such as the York or Quick air models among others and with a slight modification they will run the ARB lockers and have more poop to air tires in less time and also run power tools. Just depends on how much you want to spend.
All I can say is: Lockers are fantastic! It doesn't matter who manufactures them as they all perform the same. If you know someone with a Tundra that has a LSD - arrange to ride with him and hit a few trails and hills with the 4 Runner, Taco or Jeep crowd - You and your buddy will be locker believers as you watch the lockered vehicle go places and do things you can only think about.
I'm a long time believer in the ARB locker system. Here's what the air lockers will do that the others can't.
Say you're in a very soft environment and you have to keep up your speed in order to have a chance to make it unto a dry surface but there's a 30-degree bend in the trail. All you do is disengage the front locker by pushing the front locker switch and navigate the turn and hit the switch again once your through the turn and regain your momentum until you get to a hard surface and then you disengage both lockers and continue on in 4L, 4H or 2H with your compressor still on until the lockers are again needed. Try that with any other non on-demand front locker and you'll see why the ARB is the elite locker system on the trail - not to be confused with the BEST locker system as the ARB is second to none but I wouldn't classify it as the best because the Detroit and several other rear lockers are every bit as good - and a hell-of-a-lot less expensive I might add. I think it would be safe to say that when the front ARB locker becomes available it will absolutely be the better locker when compared to other non on-demand front lockers.
As a comparison with other on-demand lockers - the air locker engages in less than a second. The electric lockers take several seconds to engage and sometimes ole Murphy gets into the act and makes the electric locker a little temperamental before they will engage, and it's always at a bad time. The Ox is a new locker, (to me anyway) and is cable activated and I can't speak to their effectiveness in engaging and disengaging as I haven't seen them or heard anyone talk about them that have one. The Detroit and other non on-demand lockers will wear your tires a little and will always chirp on dry pavement when making corners. They clink a little but the new ones are fairly quiet and with the radio on they’re barely noticeable.
I've never had a problem with the ARB air locker and I've had both the front & rear locker on a '86 LC, this is where my front air locker experience comes from. If you have a winch up front you don't really need a front locker but it's always nice to be lockered all around. I've had a RD90 and ARB front bumper on order (prepaid) for the past two months and it's going to be one big a*s dogfight to see who all gets a locker from the first shipment. The RD90 will fit all IFS Toyota trucks going back to 1985 and from what I hear, the 4Runner crowd is clamoring for the RD90.
If you have never run a locker off-road - think of a locker this way. The posi or LSD can be considered to be 200% better than an open differential - the locker can be considered 2,000% better than the posi or LSD.
Well this is reviving a very old thread. I think my rear PowerTrax locker is on it's way out after serving me very well over the last 5 years or so. The last rear diff fluid change had a couple of small metal fragments stuck to the magnet that looked like pieces of the internal springs of the locker. I had a rather large clunk occur in the rear end yesterday morning, but no leaks and no other obvious signs of a problem. I jacked up the rear so that both tires were off the ground and they will spin independantly of each other. Not a good thing when the locker is supposed to spin them together.
So, do I replace the PowerTrax with another one or spend more $$$ for an ARB? I already have an on-board air source, so that is not a problem. With some quick searching on the internet I found an RD89 from Rocky Road Outfitters for $721, shipped. So far that's the best price I've seen. Does anyone know of a better deal out there?
Oh, one more question. I have 4.88 gears (also cryo'd) that are not quite 2 years old in the rear diff as well. Providing they are undamaged, will I be able to reuse them with an ARB air locker?
Thanks!
__________________
My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. TRD cold air intake. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 Tundra SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
I think you can reuse the old gears. On my 76 Blazer, I could always reuse mine. Once, a bolt shook loose on my ARB and got in the gears and broke the ARB housing. I took it out and put in a LSD but kept the front ARB in. I've never heard of anyone having the same problem with the bolts though.
You could have the same problem I had before, the pins in ther locker busted. I was able to purchase new springs and pins, replaced them and was good to go.
I'd suggest remove the third and inspected it even further. Do you really want to spend almost $1000(ARB unit and new master install kit. Install cost, I'm sure you have connections ) for something that could've been fixed for $30-$40?
From what I have read as well, as long as my gears are still good I should be able to reuse them. Yeah, I hear you. I know the ARB setup is expensive. But, I'm also looking at this long term. Since I also tow our 5,600 travel trailer about 6 times a year on trips (leaving tomorrow for 4 nights), I would rather have the abililty to tow with an open diff and minimize the wear and tear on a locker. Also there have been times in the snow/ice when the truck wanted to crab-walk due to the rear locker, kinda fun, kinda annoying. Then, when 4 wheelin' on the trails, lock 'er up!
Just weighing my options...
__________________
My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. TRD cold air intake. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 Tundra SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
You can reuse your gears, that won't change.
When I need a new one, I will be going w/ARB, I get tired of the chatter on the pavement, but I love the locked up rear end in the dirt and mud.
The cheapest I have found was $700.00 for just the locker, not including anything else. I haven't bought it yet but will probably do so in the next year.
The RD89 had some problems and has been replaced by the new RD129. I would get the new design locker if you decide to go with the ARB. There is a long thread on TTORA describing the problems some people had with the RD89.
Rick
__________________
Black 2002 Limited 4x4
Mods: TRD Supercharger, Boost Guage, Unichip, Clifford AvantGuard 4 Alarm/Remote Start system, Auto Dimming mirror w/compass & temp, Sequoia Power Antenna, Retrax bed cover, Donahoe long travel coilovers, Total Chaos Uniball UCA, Helo Black Maxx 6 wheels w/ 265/70R 16 Michelin LTX/MS tires, Ivan Stewart front bumper cover, TRD headers, TRD dual exhaust, factory LSD, Total Chaos urethane steering rack bushings, Wheelers urethane front swaybar bushings, Helwig rear antisway bar, Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt, Fumoto engine oil drain valve,Denso IK22 Iridum spark plugs, Eclipse AVN2454 AM/FM/CD/DVD/Navigation system w/ color backup camera, SilverStar headlights and fog lights, WeatherTec in-channel wind/rain deflectors, Ventshade door sill protectors, Toyota hood protector, TracRac sliding rack system with cantilever extension, IPOD integrated with Eclipse AVN2454, PopnLock electric tailgate lock, Sequoia electric condenser fan, Viair 440P portable compressor, ORS manual hub conversion w/Aisin hubs, StubbsWelding SKO rock sliders, 60" hi-lift extreme jack with slider adapter, Odyssey PC1700MJT battery
Coming hopefully - Warn 9.5ti multi-mount transportable winch, ARB lockers front and rear, 4.30 gears
It's an sign this thread is bumped, so i feel like i can fire away my noobish airlocker questions.
1. Above it says i can use my old (stock) gears that's good, but even with an excellent install it seems like the gears will be meshing in a slightly different way. Does this cause any problems like accelerated wear or vibration?
2. Do i need a master install kit if im running factory gears? It seems like a simple bolt the ring gear to the locker procedure followed by some shimming. I'm sure thats over-simplified.
3. There is the larger and smaller ARB compressor. I've heard the bigger one still sucks for airing up tires so is it worth it to get the larger one or the smaller compressor?
4. Between the locker and the compressor everything needed (fittings, switches, solenoid, etc) is in one of the boxes, right? Besides upgraded stainless braided airlines.
TTORA says most vendors have the lockers drop-shipped from ARB so i imagine if i order the RD89 from rocky-road i'll receive an RD129. I'll call ARB on my next day off and ask.
You can reuse your gears, that won't change.
When I need a new one, I will be going w/ARB, I get tired of the chatter on the pavement, but I love the locked up rear end in the dirt and mud.
The cheapest I have found was $700.00 for just the locker, not including anything else. I haven't bought it yet but will probably do so in the next year.
Sell me your POWERTRAX when you get rid of it. I need a locker. This LSD doesnt quite cut it. It slips now and then.
Or maybe I'll get the DETROIT TRURAC or DETROIT LOCKER. Havent decided yet. I have the DL in the stang.
But this LSD is driving me crazy.:cry:
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
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ARB air locker
It doesn't matter who manufactures them as they all perform the same. If you know someone with a Tundra that has a LSD - arrange to ride with him and hit a few trails and hills with the 4 Runner, Taco or Jeep crowd - You and your buddy will be locker believers as you watch the lockered vehicle go places and do things you can only think about.
Try that with any other non on-demand front locker and you'll see why the ARB is the elite locker system on the trail - not to be confused with the BEST locker system as the ARB is second to none but I wouldn't classify it as the best because the Detroit and several other rear lockers are every bit as good - and a hell-of-a-lot less expensive I might add. I think it would be safe to say that when the front ARB locker becomes available it will absolutely be the better locker when compared to other non on-demand front lockers.
The electric lockers take several seconds to engage and sometimes ole Murphy gets into the act and makes the electric locker a little temperamental before they will engage, and it's always at a bad time. 
I think my rear PowerTrax locker is on it's way out after serving me very well over the last 5 years or so. The last rear diff fluid change had a couple of small metal fragments stuck to the magnet that looked like pieces of the internal springs of the locker. I had a rather large clunk occur in the rear end yesterday morning, but no leaks and no other obvious signs of a problem. I jacked up the rear so that both tires were off the ground and they will spin independantly of each other. Not a good thing when the locker is supposed to spin them together.
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