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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Anybody have the Underdrive pulley install tips ?", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Hey JB,
I don't have a copy of the install info, but I don't remember it being too complicated. The tip about using a breaker bar and bumping the engine to break the nut loose on the crank was probably the most important. Somebody else chime in and remind me of something I'm forgetting. Feel free to PM with any questions & good luck!
__________________ White 2000 SR5 4x2 Tundra
22x9.5 ADR Magnus wrapped in Toyo Proxes S/T 305/40/22, S&S long tube headers & Y-pipe, R.A.P.S., Trenz grill, clear corners, X-Pel Clear Bra, HID Conversion Kit, 55W auxiliary reverse lights, Sir Michaels roll pan w/ hidden hitch, EuroTails, DeBadged, Granite dash kit, IS color keyed bumper, fender flares & mirror covers, Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar, CST leather interior, sound deadener all 4 doors, rear wall and floor pans, Nu-image guage cluster & A/C panel, blue split loom, PPD billet TB cover and fuse box cover, painted calipers & drums, dropped the rear 2" w/Belltech 6400, Color-keyed body side molding, Alpine H/U, Archos 20GB Jukebox Multimedia wired to H/U, JBL 1200.1 pushing 2 RE XXX 10s in a custom console box, RF 551X pushing Diamond Audio M561 comps in the doors and Alpine SPR-175 comps in the kicks, and JL Audios in rear straight from the H/U
Summit was the best price I could find on the Goodyear belt.
The OE belt on mine is Goodyear, and I'll probably go with the Gatorback for $25.
Thanks for the part numbers and excellent point re cheap insurance (get a good belt)! Here's the exact link at Summit to the Goodyear GTR-4060887 AUTO POLY-V BELT for $27.99
Here's a detailed explanation of the pulley installation. The very end part is about the electric fan conversion. Mike said he'll email me pics of install and other stuff soon:
"Give it a shot. the reason for the quantity is when i place the order it takes 5 weeks to get if it is a small number. the more i get the faster because they are done by machines not people. the belt is gates part # k060888. this will fit like a glove. all you need is a socket wrench with a 14 mm socket to move the tensioner, a 12mm to remove the bolts from the kick plate below the engine (you have to do the same as if changing the oil), and a 17mm for the crank bolt(this bolt is not easy to remove by hand) IF you are handy you can use your hand to remove the Crank pulley but if it is tight then use a puller . (removal of the fan and shroud is recomended but i never do it i just work my way around the fan from below to insert the puller into place. once you remove the pulley lightly oil the new pulley bore for easy installation..make sure the pulley key way sits in place(you'll feel it because you will no longer be able to turn the pulley.)tighten the bolt to torque spec. install the new belt and make sure the tensioner is tight. . you can completely remove the fan but you must retain the fan pulley. you also have to modify the fan shroud to allow two 17 inch electric fans from your local parts store. this is a creative mod and not so uniform like the pulley. I will email you some pics soon.,"
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Info on this thread said a 17mm socket was needed. My 03 needed a 20mm socket. I couldn't break loose the bolt with a socket wrench by hand. I was advised to use a long breaker bar or socket wrench and rest it over the lower radiator hose nipple, then just crank the engine for ONLY a second, backing the key out so it doesn't start. This worked like a dream. It may sound crazy, did to me, but it's not unsafe and works. I never tried the dead hitting with a mallet or hammer, but I have a hard time believing that will work.
I am looking forward to everybodys install and performance discussion. So far I am the lone wolf out here with one who isn't banned.
1. Drop skid plate for access to pulley and tensioner. Yup
2. Loosen tensioner (underneath pwr steering pump?) and remove belt.
Yes, 14mm on my '02. It's sort of a spring loaded lever, turn counter-clockwise to relieve tension, careful releasing it as it will snap back.
3. Remove pulley by using breaker bar resting on/under (?) frame and
bumping the starter.
Which side does the bar go? Left or Right?Either below the passenger side frame rail or above driver side. 22mm nut on my '02. Careful of coolant lines, etc. Does the engine turn over when
you try and torque the bolt off otherwise?Yup
4. Slide pulley off by gently prying from rear. Puller not required.Yes CAUTION The cowling behind the pully is plastic, take care where you anchor your prybar or screwdriver or you will damage this cover. Note the orientation of the key in the pulley for reference.
5. Slide on new pulley. Keyed, it can go on only one way.Yes. Lightly oil the bore of the pulley to ease install. Mine fit very precisely but was simple to install and orient to the key.
6. Tighten to 181 ft-lbs. Yes ... ideally. However the engine crank turns over when trying to torque. I resolved myself to several sharp shots with a deadblow on the breaker bar to tighten.
7. Install new belt.
8. Retension new belt. How do you determine proper tension See #2
I don't have the original list, but here's the what I remember. I've been thinking about this recently since I have to remove mine to prepare for S/C install .
1. Drop skid plate and work from below. I found I could work around the fan shroud without removing.
2. Remove OEM belt. Tensioner is pulley located below water inlet housing. 14mm counter-clockwise on center nut will relax tension and allow belt removal. Careful releasing the tensioner since it is spring loaded.
3. Use long breaker bar and 22mm (I think) on crank pulley. Anchor bar below passenger side frame rail (or above driver side), and bump the starter to loosen the nut. Careful of interference of various lines and hoses so as not to damage them.
4. Use a puller or pry off the OEM pulley. The cowling behind the pulley is plastic, so if you attempt to pry it off, be very careful not damage this. Pay attention to the orientation of the key on the pulley to make alignment of the new pulley easier.
5. Lightly oil the bore of the new pulley and install on crank. I tightened by striking the breaker bar with a hammer several times. If you have a chain or strap wrench to hold the pulley and prevent the engine from turning over, you can attempt to torque to 181 ft-lbs. Protect the pulley with a piece of the old belt if you use a chain wrench.
6. Re-install new belt (I used a Goodyear Gatorback #4060887).
7. Re-install skid plate.
8. Enjoy!
Hope I didn't forget anything. Good luck!
Brian
Edit: Whoa ... I got beat to the punch while I was typing!
If anyone is interested..... I'll be doing a dyno in the next 2 weeks to see what my JBA headers gave me. I'll do another dyno after the u/d pulley goes on to see what we get w/that. This site is the best..!!!
If anyone is interested..... I'll be doing a dyno in the next 2 weeks to see what my JBA headers gave me. I'll do another dyno after the u/d pulley goes on to see what we get w/that. This site is the best..!!!
Thanx again, boyz... JB
Hey Jack....save that second dyno 1 month and do it with the unichip!!! Yellbird I believe posted around 5-6HP for the pulley (feels a bit more to me but possible) and he dynoed it.
Hey Jack....save that second dyno 1 month and do it with the unichip!!! Yellbird I believe posted around 5-6HP for the pulley (feels a bit more to me but possible) and he dynoed it.
Had to double check....
Yep....your #24!!!
Kevin
Excellent... I'll do that..... Have to do a "Dyno-Day" in early May... JB
One last thing- The tolerances on the new pully are pretty tight. If it does not slide on easily to the keyed shaft, stick it in the oven at 150* for about 10 minutes and that pup will slide right on
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One last thing- The tolerances on the new pully are pretty tight. If it does not slide on easily to the keyed shaft, stick it in the oven at 150* for about 10 minutes and that pup will slide right on
Right arm, Ted..!! Thanks.... Haven't made any "brownies" in a few years. Might just fire up the oven... JB
just got my pulley yesterday...skid plate's already off, this sounds like an hour job or so, yeah?
-s
Took me and a buddy 30 minutes, including a before and after test drive. The "hardest" part was re-routing the new belt up and over each pulley correctly. Thank God for the sticker illustrating it! All the feedback below is spot on.
Enjoy!
Jim.
__________________ Base: '02 Tundra SR5 Imperial Jade Mica 4WD w/ TRD Off-Road, EVP Convenience & Tow Packages, Oak Interior & Captains Chairs, 6 Speaker/6-Disk CD, VIP 3K, Chrome Wheel Locks, & Anti-lock Brakes with DRL Mods: K&N FIPK II, Ram Air Performance System (RAPS), Unichip, Ivan Stewart Flares and TRD Grille, 2" Cornfed Front Suspension Lift (How-To Guide), BFG A/T 265/75's, Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar (How-To Guide), JBA Headers & 2" Highflow Y-Pipe, 2.5" Exhaust Cutout with QuickTime Performance Electric Cutout (QTEC), Flowmaster 50 Series™ Delta Flow® Performance Muffler with Dual 2.5" x 18" Chrome Tips, ASP Racing Underdrive Pulley, PPD Billet Goodies, Rhino Liner, Tinted-windows, etc. Planned: My Tundra is done for now. Next up: Build new 400ci for my '69 Pontiac Custom S
lol...its gonna take me 3 days cuz that's when i'll get a chance to install it, i think...had to order the belt. if i get the headers and chip before the long weekend, i'll do 'em all at once...that oughtta give an interesting result ...
lol...its gonna take me 3 days cuz that's when i'll get a chance to install it, i think...had to order the belt. if i get the headers and chip before the long weekend, i'll do 'em all at once...that oughtta give an interesting result ...
Oh yeah! If it was me (patience!) I would do the pulley first and drive it around for a few days to gauge the improvement before pulling out the big gun (Unichip) and installing it. That way you can get a feel for what each mod offers. Then again, if time is of the essence...
Either way, have fun dude!
Jim.
__________________ Base: '02 Tundra SR5 Imperial Jade Mica 4WD w/ TRD Off-Road, EVP Convenience & Tow Packages, Oak Interior & Captains Chairs, 6 Speaker/6-Disk CD, VIP 3K, Chrome Wheel Locks, & Anti-lock Brakes with DRL Mods: K&N FIPK II, Ram Air Performance System (RAPS), Unichip, Ivan Stewart Flares and TRD Grille, 2" Cornfed Front Suspension Lift (How-To Guide), BFG A/T 265/75's, Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar (How-To Guide), JBA Headers & 2" Highflow Y-Pipe, 2.5" Exhaust Cutout with QuickTime Performance Electric Cutout (QTEC), Flowmaster 50 Series™ Delta Flow® Performance Muffler with Dual 2.5" x 18" Chrome Tips, ASP Racing Underdrive Pulley, PPD Billet Goodies, Rhino Liner, Tinted-windows, etc. Planned: My Tundra is done for now. Next up: Build new 400ci for my '69 Pontiac Custom S
chip isn't here yet...im in the last group of 00-02, they are still on order from the supplier i think as mine hasnt shipped yet.
install on the pulley was really easy . only things i could add to the install notes below were i used a cheater bar over my 1/2" drive socket wrench so i could lay it on the driver's side frame without having to turn the engine to get the breaker bar to lay in place. bump the starter, you can hear the bolt come loose...it comes out by hand. a little corrosion at the end of the bolt, so i anti-siezed it. the autozone puller was hopeless, so i grabbed a crowbar, and decided as someone mentioned that the plastic piece behind the pulley is sketchy, so i rested the crowbar against the frame crossmember, put the straight end behind the pulley, and gave the other end a whack with a fist...just have to bonk it once, there's a little bit of lock-tite or something in the keyway of the oem pulley, then it comes out by hand with a little wiggling. on my 00 the bolt was a 22mm.
the tip to bake pulley at 300* for 10min or til goldeny brown with a moist center was great . i considered sticking the pulley on straight, but the truck was hot, and the pulley was cold--no go. in the oven for a bit, it slipped right on. contraction will hold it in place beautifully. i didnt have anything to torque that bolt down...just tightened til it stopped and the engine moved, drove around for a bit, went back to tighten again, it hadnt moved. i'll check it today, then in a week, but i dont think it's going anywhere.
putting the belt back on was also really easy. i got the belt mostly in place, then put the socket wrench on the idler pulley as a guide, so the belt would rest on the wrench w/o falling off the other pulleys, and just guided it up. i used the gates belt, it really does fit like a glove!
really easy install, very refreshing after the headers. the tips you guys posted are great. also, with the accessories off and the engine idling, it really is hard to tell the engine is on, if not for the needles.
Anybody have the Underdrive pulley install tips ?
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