I'm just about at 30,000 miles and am getting ready to replace my spark plugs. Is it better for the I-Force to stay with the stock plugs? Anyone with up to date good spark plug knowledge please let me know what is the absolute best performing spark plug. I don't care about them lasting 100,000 miles, or does performance and longevity go hand in hand?
I got bosch platinum +4 also. Was going to go with the irridiums, but too expensive. Its a spark plug, i can't see there being that much of a performance increase. Definetly smoother with new plugs, but thats just it, they're new plugs. i decided to save a little $$ and just purchased all Amsoil fluids ( engine , transmission, t-case and diff oil) from Fred. This way i'll have a little more then just great plugs.
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7"Front lift 315/75-16 BFGoodrich AT's on 16x8 MB Motoring with TC lift, Team West Coilovers, Deaver 3 leaf spring pack on 4" block with Bilstein 5100's in rear; Volant Intake; Spin-Tech Muff
I tried changing the spark plugs but I'm not sure what to do. I unscrewed that one screw and pulled off that black square piece and a long black tube came out. Then what do I do?
Originally posted by tuffloud1 I tried changing the spark plugs but I'm not sure what to do. I unscrewed that one screw and pulled off that black square piece and a long black tube came out. Then what do I do?
tuffloud1,
Loosen the bolt and pull off the coil. Each plug has an individual coil. No spark plug wires, no distributor, no rotor. It's a deep well, but the plug is down there. You really need a spark plug socket that has a rubber gasket that will hold the plug in to get the old plugs out of that hole. I think it was a 16mm. There is plenty of room on the passenger side and you can make it work on the drivers side, it's just a bit tougher.
Originally posted by tuffloud1 Thanks Jose! Do I have to use a precise torque wrench on the plugs or can I just make sure they are snug? Should I use anti-seize?
Originally posted by tuffloud1 Thanks Jose! Do I have to use a precise torque wrench on the plugs or can I just make sure they are snug? Should I use anti-seize?
Tuffloud, not sure how well those plug holes are protected with the coils (I'm going to find out since I'm due to put in Bosch Platinum +4s in), but usually it's a good practice to take air and blow around the plugs so no junk falls in when you pull the plugs.
Too, doing this helps keep you from picking up junk when you put the plugs in with anti-sieze on the threads.
Just to let you know, a 5/8 deep well spark plug socket is the correct size. I guess 5/8 and 16mm must be about the same size. I tried to buy a 16mm and the local autoparts store thought I was crazy, like it didn't exist. Anyways, I made do with my 5/8 and it fit good, no play.
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7"Front lift 315/75-16 BFGoodrich AT's on 16x8 MB Motoring with TC lift, Team West Coilovers, Deaver 3 leaf spring pack on 4" block with Bilstein 5100's in rear; Volant Intake; Spin-Tech Muff
Wouldn't worry about cleaning around the holes - the coils form a good seal.
I switched to the Bosch +4s, and I've been happy.
The Denso iridiums are very good plugs, and will provide performance for longer than any other plug, but you do pay for it. The +4s are spendy at $6 each, but the Densos go for $11 - $15 depending on source.
$100 seems like a lot for a plug change, but with Iridiums you don't need to change them for (supposedly) 100K miles, and it'll run a lot better at the end of that time then with platinums. Or so they say....
It all really hinges on your preference, and how much you want to spend on a spark plug change.
The Denso IK series of plugs are high performance and normal life span. The electrode is .4 mm diameter.
Denso's other iridium plugs have a .7 mm diameter electrode and are high mileage, normal performance. These have the 100,000 mile replacement recommendation. How do you unscrew spark plugs with 100,000 miles of baked-on carbon in the threads?
Originally posted by bradbury Wouldn't worry about cleaning around the holes - the coils form a good seal.
I switched to the Bosch +4s, and I've been happy.
The Denso iridiums are very good plugs, and will provide performance for longer than any other plug, but you do pay for it. The +4s are spendy at $6 each, but the Densos go for $11 - $15 depending on source.
$100 seems like a lot for a plug change, but with Iridiums you don't need to change them for (supposedly) 100K miles, and it'll run a lot better at the end of that time then with platinums. Or so they say....
It all really hinges on your preference, and how much you want to spend on a spark plug change.
This was covered once before as to the cost. Here's an old post of mine: You should be able to get them locally at an auto discount store for no more than $6.40 each - If not try this site for $6.40 each. Just type in the item # which is 6418 for the Iridium IX which according to NGK is for the Toyota Tundra 4.7L. The 6418 is also called the BKR6EIX which is your hi-performance Iridium NGK plug, they also make the BKR6EGP which is a single platium NKG plug and the BKR6EYA which is the standard nickel NGK plug. The IK20 is a Denso plug and cross references over to a BKR6EIX-11 NKG plug. The BKR6EIX-11 is exactly the same as far as makeup is concerned compared to the BKR6EIX with the only exception being the gap is .044 instead of .032. The item # for this wide gap Iridium NGK plug is 3764. The IK20 is also gapped at .044. http://www.monarchproductsinc.com/ngk.htm
Best Spark Plug?
Linear Mode
