Timing Belt Replacement 2000 Tundra

[mhart]

I changed my belt on 2000 Tundra at 107,000 miles. There is no way that climate can affect the change interval. It should be done at 90,000 miles. I still have my original serpentine belt and it looks in good condition. Your dealer is wrong. Had my belt changed in Kalispell, Mt. for about $550.

[kathyricks]

Originally Posted by ctbale

the ONLY toyota dealer here in anchorage said $888 for both belts, and water pump, and guessing thermo stadt. I have the belt on hand, just need to go get pump and 2 hose clamps, o-ring, gasket, coolant, and I can do it for $200 in parts.

Changing the timing belt on a V8 Toyota is no walk in the park. Example: here is a detailed tutorial for the early 1990's Lexus V8 from which the Tundra V8 was derived: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

[ctbale]

thanks for the great guide!!! WOW! The odo reads 119,000. should I be sweating it this badly? if they say 90k, thats safe, but then again I am 30 over that.

I am an aircraft mechanic, worked on Cessna's, and 737s and lots of stuff in between, so I should be able to knock this out in a day ... I will do it Sunday in my hanger I guess, not looking forward to it though. lot of hours for no noticeable drivability enhancements, but then again, whats an engine cost for a tundra?

[davis3903]

If You Are A Bit Mechanicaly Inclined You Can Do It Your Self. Make Sure You Do The Waterpump At The Same Time And Change The Cooling Fluid As Well. The Hardest Part Is Removing The Harmonic Balancer, If You Have Acess To An Impact Wrench You Will Have It Made. This Will Save You Hundreds Of Dollars That The Dealer Wanted To Take You For. Also Keep An Ear On The Transmission Mine Lost The Od. Design Falw On 2000-2004 Models. I Purchased The Rebuilt From Dealer Thru My Mechanic And We Swapped It Out
Total Less Than 2400.00 Dealer Cost, Was Lets Say A Bit Higher.
So Far I Have 150 K And I Bought Mine At 108 K For 10k. And Still Like The Truck. And Will Get Another When I Plant A Head Stone For The One I Am In Now. Bd

[ctbale]

I changed my timing belt/water pump and t-stadt at 119,000miles. . first thing you want to do is pull neg cable off battery, drain coolant, from system. at radiator drain, and two 10mm head valve bolts on L & R sides of block. BUY A CHILTONS MANUAL! it didnt miss a thing on procedure, I was impressed. original belt was cracking on back side, but would have made it another 10k. water pump bearing was tired too. nice to have that done!! Good thing I did, front of radiator was PLUGGED with pollen/dirt/dust. was 75% covered, I am surprised that remaining 25% was enough to cool engine (Alaska temps I guess) Did whole job for under $300, 7 hours. that included 42 bucks for 2 gals of the red coolant!! OUCH!! Dealer wanted $888. Buy a toyota water pump, only $10 bucks more than aftermarket ones. You have to have a harmonic balancer puller, $10 for a cheep one or sears has a nice one for $22, then put it on ebay. need an impact gun (or a cheep chain wrench with a old serp belt to insulate crank pulley) to break free and re torque 22mm head bolt. take your time, enjoy, most people can do this, but if ya a rookie, do it in two shifts, you will be less frazzled that way.

[KFlash]

How many of you are going the full route with seals etc. If no leaks - have you just done the pump and belt? Do you have to pull the radiator out?

[jbtech2]

I just changed the timing belt on my 2000 V6 with 91000 miles on the belt. Found out 2 very important things: the old belt was cracking, I wouldn't advise going much over the 90k recommendation;and the two hardest steps are getting the crankshaft pulley bolt, and then tight again. I'm going to make a post this week about the tool I made to hold the crankshaft pulley when tightening the bolt. Cost about 13 dollars to make. First timing belt I ever changed, so I was nervous about turning the key, but taking a lot of time to triple check the timing paid off and its running fabulously. DYI!! It really isnt much more than lefty-loosey, righty-tighty.

[jbtech2]

I just changed the timing belt on my v6 2000 reg cab tundra; here's some tips on what I learned(as it took me 2 tries to get it done). You need the following tools: a 24 inch breaker bar with 1/2 inch drive; 19 mm impact hammer socket at 1/2 inch drive(the black ones, regular strength are reported as breaking on the crank pulley bolt); 2 each 4 inch 3/8 diameter Grade 8 Bolts(6 hash marks on the bolt head); 2 each 4 foot steel bar stock from Home Depot that measure 1/8 by 1 inch(cut these in half to 2 foot lengths, then laminate using bolts, not heat, into one 2 foot by 1/4 by 1 inch bar, cut one of the two footers down to one foot and laminate those two, leaving one extra two footer); one 3 prong pulley puller(you can 'buy' the tools from Autozone, then return them for a full refund, it's their practice to do so for the DYI crowd). You may need some hi-temp silicone caulking, as I found the dust sealants on my timing belt covers were cracked and partially missing; some amazing stuff found it's way in there. After you get all the belts and their accessories removed/relocated, use the breaker bar and socket, wedged on top of the frame, to loosen the crank pulley bolt by hitting the starter very briefly(I didn't have one on my first try, and the combined human efforts of over 380 lbs could not get this bolt loose without it). The bolt was loose after the second hit for me. Preceding on to the belt replacement step, I followed all the advice in both this site and the 'official' procedure found at AllDataDIY.com(you have to be a member). I found that I could align the cam shaft pulley marks with the new belts marks, but could not see the same at the crank pulley site(couldn't be sure what they were referring to). So, what I did was crank the engine over about 10 times (a full belt length) and verified that the marks for the cam pulleys still agreed with the belt marks and the crankshaft mark. Then I installed a new belt tensioner and released it, and turned the engine over about 10 more times(a full belt length) and checked that the cam timing marks and the Crankshaft timing mark(straight up like the cam marks are straight down) were still in alignment-this is VERY IMPORTANT. I found at that time that the cam shaft marks on the belt had 'jumped' two cogs to the right(past the cams), but that was where they were on the old belt(I have no idea, none, how or why that happens). But, as long as the cam pulley marks line up at the same time as the crankshaft mark, all is well(the belt is round, after all). [But there was some nervous tension when I started the engine the first time later.] When you're ready to tighten the crank pulley bolt, take the laminated bars, drill a 3/8 hole about 1 inch from one end in each, lay the pulley on a flat surface, insert a bolt thru one hole in one bar into one of the two 3/8 holes in the pulley. Now, put the 19mm socket over the bolt hole, and taking the other laminated bar, put a bolt thru it, and into the other hole. Now swing the second bar over the first so that they make an uneven Y shape, and you will be able to find the place to drill a second 3/8 hole thru both bars that will allow you to insert a mating bolt, and that will allow clearance for the socket when you are ready to tighten it with the torque wrench.[At this point you have about 18 bucks tied up in this homemade tool, which is about 10 percent of a manufactured one). Mount the pulley and balancer per instructions then put the two bolts in the tool into the pulley, rest the long bar end on the frame(which locks the pulley in place-you may need to rotate the crank to get it to touch the frame), put the socket on the torque wrench and get to turning(I think there was more working room to be had if I had dismounted both the battery and it's platform). As it was, I had my left leg on a step stool, my right leg over the radiator and right foot on the handle of the torque wrench, my girl friend standing by to call 911, and my hands on the hood and radiator. I could only get 2 or 3 clicks per step, and had to jump on the handle at the end, but I finally got it to click at 217 foot-lbs. (and i weigh well over 200 lbs). After remounting and retorquing all the belts and accessories, it started and ran well the first time(whew!). I highly recommend the posts here and the procedures at AlldataDIY.com for providing more than enough info to relieve any self doubts on this procedure. The only problems I ran into were some dripping tranny fluid in my hair, and I forgot(briefly) to tighten one raditator fitting. The info on this site I particularly found useful; thanks to all who contributed! I got much satisfaction from doing this my self. I'd do it again. Cost $60 for the belt, and $18 for the steel bars and grade 8 bolts.

[KLINDSEY]

Originally Posted by kathyricks

Changing the timing belt on a V8 Toyota is no walk in the park. Example: here is a detailed tutorial for the early 1990's Lexus V8 from which the Tundra V8 was derived: Lexus LS400: How to Change the Timing Belt & Water Pump

The Tundra is easier than the Lexus, I do not think the job is all that hard just takes time, a lot of little parts. water pump, timing belt, thermo stat and gaskets, Rad flush. Special tools needed Harmonic balancer puller, and a visegrip type chain wrench, and about 8 hours of your time, counting food breaks.
Kevin

[mitchr]

Originally Posted by KFlash

How many of you are going the full route with seals etc. If no leaks - have you just done the pump and belt? Do you have to pull the radiator out?

I just had mine done by a Toyota tech with 28 years esp. who now runs his own shop at his house. I asked about changing out the water pump and said he always checks them out for sign's of wear, leaks ect. and usually he finds none on the 90,000 mile interval. I asked him how mainy water pump failures has he seen on a Tundra and he said ZERO! He said if it was at 180,000 he would recommend changing it though. Oh yeah he only charged me $350+tax including a new serpentine belt.

Mitch