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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "EZ Lube/Jiffy Lube Experiences", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I hate having to shell out 70 bucks to Toyota for an oil change and tire rotation and having to wait 4 hours for it. Anybody have any experiences with the discount places?
people getting the wrong oil, no oil, no drail plug, no fill cap, no oil change(!), and various recommendations for "worn part replacement".
STAY AWAY!
um, why 70? you running synth? otherwise that's a ripoff...30 bucks and you can do synth yourself in a half hour, another half hour with a floor jack, torque wrench and breaker bar and you can rotate the tires.
I will only get my oil changed at Jiffy Lube if my buddy is working and since he is the manager, he's usually there.
Its nice to always get the best service from such a crappy place. I take my Altima there as well. Mobile 1 for all my toys
I hate having to shell out 70 bucks to Toyota for an oil change and tire rotation and having to wait 4 hours for it. Anybody have any experiences with the discount places?
The best discount is DIY.
This way you are sure it's done right.
I am so good at oil changes that I can do mine in about 20 mins, that's about how long it takes just to drive over to the discount place.
I use Amsoil, so I drain it every 8000 miles or so...Much easier on the wallet and the schedule...
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I usually change my own but when I bought the Tundra DC my dealership offered lifetime oil changes and tire rotation for $19.95....don't know what the heck Toyota is doing for $70!!!!! but I'd do it myself and if I'm in desperate need and lack of time I'll just use the dealer for $19.95.....would really like to know what the heck Toyota does for $70!!
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I would never pay $70 for an oil change and tire rotation, man if my old man ever found out I paid that much for something I could do myself he would open a can of whoopass on me, he'd beat me with his cain..
Do u have back problems or other physical disability that wont let you cause just thinking of dropping $70 hurts.
I usually change my own but when I bought the Tundra DC my dealership offered lifetime oil changes and tire rotation for $19.95....don't know what the heck Toyota is doing for $70!!!!! but I'd do it myself and if I'm in desperate need and lack of time I'll just use the dealer for $19.95.....would really like to know what the heck Toyota does for $70!!
At my dealership I think they charge 50 bucks for "tire rotion and oil change all in under 58 minutes or its free" jajaja
Nowadays I change my own oil in my 01' Tundra, using Mobile1 Synthetic. Back when I was a bit younger and way more stupid (my wife may disagree on that point), I took my 94' Toyota 4x4 to Jiffy Lube quite a bit because it was a beast to change the oil filter in that thing. Once they stripped the threads on my oil pan, I made them replace it and never went back again.
No way in hell they're touching my Tundra. It's really nothing now to change it on this beauty. Doing the tire rotation myself only takes about 15 minutes too. A nice floor jack and jack stands are always a good investment.
I hate having to shell out 70 bucks to Toyota for an oil change and tire rotation and having to wait 4 hours for it. Anybody have any experiences with the discount places?
My very last experiance at jiffy lube....in this lifetime: Fill her up, start it up and WOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! Spewing / shooting oil everywhere.....Woops....sorry sir....we forgot the oil filter! Freakin Morons
Go to America's Tire and buy a lifetime rotation/balance package for about $40. You can buy this for your OEM tires, and it is lifetime, so even if you buy new tires from someone else, your truck will still be in their database.
My stepdaughter bought Camille's '00 Echo, but all she has to do is every 5k, drive into America's and give them my phone number. The Echo shows up in the database, along with the '04 Rav4, '03 Tundra, and '94 p/u.
DIY the oil change... buy a Fram Sure-Drain and the only messy part is the filter.
Put a zip-lock over the filter when unscrewing it and it's not messy either.
I buy Mobil-1 from Costco for $23/6pack and can usually get a 5qt jug from Wal-Mart for $20. That's enough oil for both the Tundra and the Rav4. I buy the M1-301 filter from Autozone ($12), so I'm set for oil changes for both vehicles for under $70 and a half hour of time.
Jiffy Lube is owned by Pennzoil, so you can bet that their filters will be the Pennzoil/Fram type (search the web for the dirt on Fram).
Grease Monkey does use Purolator filters, but they also put Dex in the Echo's tranny (ugh).
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I take it by your comment that fram is bad? Even the "tough guard" models? What would be a better filter? My trucks @ 50, i dont see any benifit of switchin to syn, get the ford oem filters then? (ranger, yea I know, workin on a tundra)
I take it by your comment that fram is bad? Even the "tough guard" models? What would be a better filter? My trucks @ 50, i dont see any benifit of switchin to syn, get the ford oem filters then? (ranger, yea I know, workin on a tundra)
The benefit of switching to synth is long-term wear. How long will you keep your truck? Just because it has 50k on it now doesn't mean that synth may still not help it reach 250k or better.
I need the reliability of Toyota, and compound it with synth, as I run very high mileage (70k on my '03 already).
As far as filters, the Mobil-1 is a synthetic media and very efficient. Purolator Pure-One is also synthetic, but reported to have a very high flow resistance which could cause the bypass to open prematurely. Of the non-synthetics, I'd stick with Toyota, Purolator, AC/Delco, and believe it or not, the Wal-Mart house brand (Super Tech?) is actually a very good filter.
Fram filters have less filtering area, and the media is bonded to cardboard end plates. The one's containing teflon should be avoided... even DuPont has said that PTFE has no business inside of our engines. It cannot properly bond under the conditions present, and does no good.
__________________ 2003 SR5 TRD V8
Better Built toolbox / Limited leather / Power outlet mod / Maplight mod / Horn mod / Wheelskins leather wheel wrap / RS3200 Plus / Rebadged w/TRD / Bully Nerf bars / '05 OEM Taillights / Clear corners / Tint / Factory Woodgrain kit / Gentex EC Mirror / Gaylord's Toolbox-Lid / MB Overdrives with Revos / Muthco Signal Mirrors / Sport Grille / TRD Dual Exhaust / Camry Nav System
just out of curiosity -- is the tundra high enough to do the oil change without a jack? My problem is that my street and my driveway are at a slant and it might be dangerous for me to put it under a jack.
yeah, it is high enough (even stock). park the truck nose uphill (drain plug is to rear of pan), set e-brake, chock wheels, take off the skid plate, and dont do anything from behind the front wheels. when stock, might take a little scrubbing around under there, but it is possible, ive done it myself.
here's another trick, do you have a floor jack? if so, set e-brake, chock rear wheels, and pick up the front of the truck with the floor jack, both front wheels off the ground at the same time, then set it back down again. you'll have a couple inches more height to work with, trust me this works. with my modified ifs, this'll get the top of the frame almost level with the top of my 33s when i set it down again...tons o' room. stock, youll at least get a few inches more to play with. as soon as you move the truck forwards or backwards, it'll gradually sit down where it's supposed to as the tires scrub outwards.