Extending Automatic Transmission Life

[DevinSixtySeven]

looking forward to your numbers. canyonlands will be 100-110 at the end of july, will a stock tranny with the tcase in 4lo and synthetic fluid be at risk in this environment? should i consider something more than the stock cooler? i have the 00 with the tow package as well.

-sean

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by bmlecuy

Please follow up with install pics .

If you are replacing the factory cooler, is there any reason you can't mount the new one directly in its place?

Brian

Hi Brian, I just happen to have a pic with the hood up (click here) and you can see the stock cooler just to the left of center. Now the stock cooler is "hanging" vertically and there is a horn and an A/C line on the left (the bag of coffee and the yellow measuring cup have since be removed ). I don't believe the 8" x 11" cooler would fit properly. I have a much larger open space to the right. I just need to buy some longer lines to run to the other location, which in turn works great because I then have the length needed to install the in-line filter.

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

looking forward to your numbers. canyonlands will be 100-110 at the end of july, will a stock tranny with the tcase in 4lo and synthetic fluid be at risk in this environment? should i consider something more than the stock cooler? i have the 00 with the tow package as well.

-sean

Sean...

Slow rock crawling in high ambient temperatures is in some respects worse than towing in high temps because there's little to no airflow over the external tranny cooler. Almost all of your transmission's cooling will therefore be happening inside the oil/water cooler that's in the bottom of the radiator. Actually the majority of cooling (even when towing) is done by the oil/water cooler even with a good airflow over the external cooler...the external cooler is an auxiliary.

If I was in your shoes, I'd be thinking of mounting an supplemental electric fan in front of the tranny cooler...and getting one of IPT's T-blocks along with a tranny temp gauge/sender from Autometer. Be sure, however, to mount the sender in the return line from the aux cooler to the transmission. Mounting it in the output line from the tranny to the cooler (as most do) will give false and alarmingly high readings.

With synthetic ATF you should be OK with short term ATF temps (measured in the cooler return line) up as high 200 degrees.

But keep in mind that a sensor in either the transmission output or return line will be "spiky"...the return line less so and with lower maximums...but displayed temperatures will still be much more volatile than the temperature of the fluid in the pan. And it's the pan temperature that's important as that's the stuff that goes back into the transmission's guts...and ATF damage is a function of high temperature as well as how long it stays at high temperature. In my experience, it takes around 10 minutes of high power operation before that gallon or so of ATF in the pan starts to really get warm (over 195); by contrast the temperature in the cooler lines (either one) will rapidly rise within seconds of beginning high power operations. OTOH, as soon as the high output situation goes away, the cooler lines will rapidly drop in temperature (especially the return line) but it can be many minutes before the pan temperature drops to what's normal for 100 ambient, namely around 150 to 160.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

looking forward to your numbers. canyonlands will be 100-110 at the end of july, will a stock tranny with the tcase in 4lo and synthetic fluid be at risk in this environment? should i consider something more than the stock cooler? i have the 00 with the tow package as well.

-sean

Hi Sean,

I think you will be OK. My understanding is that the tranny temp warning light comes on at or above 230 degrees. My last trail run I saw 210 degrees, but only for a short period of time. I do not have synthetic in my tranny, but I was in 4lo, although the outside air temp was probably in the 80's at the time. I have done other trails in hot weather (upper 90's to low 100's), prior to having the tranny temp gauge installed and I have never had that light come on other than during the initial start of the engine.

I have a 5,000 lb trailer I'll be hauling around in a couple of weeks, so I'm concerned about having a high temp reading for long periods of time.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by RockyMtnRay

If I was in your shoes, I'd be thinking of mounting an supplemental electric fan in front of the tranny cooler...

Good idea. That had crossed my mind awhile back, but I never acted on it. I think I'll look more seriously at that option as well.

[tremo]

Originally Posted by RockyMtnRay

If I was in your shoes, I'd be thinking of mounting an supplemental electric fan in front of the tranny cooler...and getting one of IPT's T-blocks along with a tranny temp gauge/sender from Autometer. Be sure, however, to mount the sender in the return line from the aux cooler to the transmission. Mounting it in the output line from the tranny to the cooler (as most do) will give false and alarmingly high readings.

Hey Ray,

Any ideas on this post from below?

http://69.93.188.20/~tundraso/forums...d.php?p=243477

I understand the T-block installs on the aux cooler *return* line as John indicated:

I sell a t-block that installs in the cooler *return* line very easily. The block has two hose barb fittings and gets installed into the rubber line.

However, John also mentions mounting the sensor in the block:

The sensor then gets mounted in the block and it's done- no draining the pan, no welding, soldering or braising of the pan.

Where in the block does the sensor get mounted? Is there an existing fitting?

Along with adding a filter, I want to add a gauge when I get the VB upgrade done in a few weeks. Also, any ideas on where to mount the gauge (I see you like Autometer)? Anyone know where you get those gauge pods for the A-pillar from?

Thanks!

Jim.

[LGL002]

Unless I'm missing something the "block" he's referring to is the inline t-block fitting and you install the sensor into branch on the tee.

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by tremo

Hey Ray,

Any ideas on this post from below?

http://69.93.188.20/~tundraso/forums...d.php?p=243477

I understand the T-block installs on the aux cooler *return* line as John indicated:

I sell a t-block that installs in the cooler *return* line very easily. The block has two hose barb fittings and gets installed into the rubber line.

However, John also mentions mounting the sensor in the block:

The sensor then gets mounted in the block and it's done- no draining the pan, no welding, soldering or braising of the pan.

Where in the block does the sensor get mounted? Is there an existing fitting?

Originally Posted by lgl002

Unless I'm missing something the "block" he's referring to is the inline t-block fitting and you install the sensor into branch on the tee.

lgl002 is absolutely correct. The "block" being referred to is not the engine block.

Along with adding a filter, I want to add a gauge when I get the VB upgrade done in a few weeks. Also, any ideas on where to mount the gauge (I see you like Autometer)? Anyone know where you get those gauge pods for the A-pillar from?

The best mounting location by far is in an Autometer A-pillar gauge pod...it keeps the gauge right up in your field of vision. Lottsa online places sell them...just do a google on the Autometer SKU (you can get the Autometer SKUs for both gauge and pod off the Autometer website). Note: The Autometer website indicates the A-pillar pod is for '00-'01 Tundras only. This is bogus information...the Tundra pod works fine on '02s and '03s as well (though it might not work on a Double Cab '04)

However, at the time (back in May) that I was ready to get my gauge all the online stores were out of stock on the pod, though some had the gauge itself. Found that a local speed shop (listed as being an Autometer dealer on the Autometer website) could and did get both in just one day...I just gave him the Autometer SKUs. I probably paid an extra 20% or so over the online prices but in dollar terms, the difference wasn't that much and I got immediate gratification.

I should add that the Autometer Z-series gauges are closest in style to the Tundra instrumentation...black face & bezel, white lettering, only real difference is the needle is red instead of orange.

[tremo]

"I see", said the blind man! Excellent advice, thanks guys!

Jim.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by bmlecuy

Please follow up with install pics .

I received the new cooler Friday and installed it Friday night. I hate to wait once I have a new part. Basically, the space occupied by the old tranny cooler was a bit too small to put the new one in. There is a "hard" AC line that I did not want to mess with. The new cooler itself is not directional, meaning the fluid can come and go out either way. I opted to mount it sideways so that the new lines had an easier reach and less bending in the rubber lines. This also gave me an easy location for mounting the 'directional' filter.

With my mechanic buddy helping me, we disconnected the old cooler and pointed the lines into a container and fired up the engine to determine which line pumped the fluid from the tranny to the cooler. Turns out on my '01 it is the bottom most line. I tried to indicate this with a picture or two. Once that was determined we reused the rubber bushings from the factory cooler and along with the included brackets, mounted up the new cooler. Then cut the new line to length including adding in the filter. Used hose clamps on all the connections, ran the engine for a few minutes then checked the tranny fluid level. Ended up adding about 3/4 of a quart. Checked for leaks, found none and I now have about 75 miles on it.

Yesterday it reached about 94 degrees. My non-scientific observation is this: The 75 miles was pretty much running errands on surface streets without spending any real time on the freeway. My temp gauge did not get above 165 degrees and once up to this temp seemed to cool off quicker when moving down the road between stop lights. The real test will come next weekend when we tow our trailer over to the coast. There are some decent grades (for us low-lander's ) to go over. Temp's will probably be in the mid 90's. Previously I have seen a high of 210 so I am quite curious to see what happens with the larger cooler installed.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by RockyMtnRay

If I was in your shoes, I'd be thinking of mounting an supplemental electric fan in front of the tranny cooler...

Well I did some further research and ordered up a Flex-a-lite fan, adjustable thermostat and mounting brackets from Summit Racing. Should be here today. I am not sure if I will have time to do the install before we take off Sunday morning.

Parts list:
FLX-108 (11 7/8" wide x 10 3/4" high x 2 3/4" thick, pusher fan.)
FLX-31147 (Adjustable temperature sensor.)
FLX-32124 (Trimline Extender Bracket kit.)

FYI: I drove about 20 miles on the freeway yesterday evening @ 70 mph with an outside air temp of about 93 degrees (A/C on) and my tranny temp gauge held steady at 125 degrees. This is about 25 degrees cooler than the original factory cooler with similar conditions. I'm liking this new cooler!

[akauth]

You might want to get a temp sensitive bypass for your cooler. That's running too cool and it will be much worse during the winter.

The radiator not only cools the trans but when it's cold warms it up as well. A better temp is in the mid to high 160s.

Alan

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

Well I did some further research and ordered up a Flex-a-lite fan, adjustable thermostat and mounting brackets from Summit Racing. Should be here today. I am not sure if I will have time to do the install before we take off Sunday morning.

Parts list:
FLX-108 (11 7/8" wide x 10 3/4" high x 2 3/4" thick, pusher fan.)
FLX-31147 (Adjustable temperature sensor.)
FLX-32124 (Trimline Extender Bracket kit.)

FYI: I drove about 20 miles on the freeway yesterday evening @ 70 mph with an outside air temp of about 93 degrees (A/C on) and my tranny temp gauge held steady at 125 degrees. This is about 25 degrees cooler than the original factory cooler with similar conditions. I'm liking this new cooler!

[bmlecuy]

Originally Posted by akauth

You might want to get a temp sensitive bypass for your cooler. That's running too cool and it will be much worse during the winter.

The radiator not only cools the trans but when it's cold warms it up as well. A better temp is in the mid to high 160s.

Alan

The Long Tru-Cool that Herbicidal has installed is supposed to be self-regulating. Cooler high viscosity fluid bypasses the internal core, then as it warms and becomes thinner, it enters the core to be cooled.

Isn't cooler=better as long as the fuild isn't so cold as to not flow well in the tranny?

Brian

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by akauth

You might want to get a temp sensitive bypass for your cooler. That's running too cool and it will be much worse during the winter.

The radiator not only cools the trans but when it's cold warms it up as well. A better temp is in the mid to high 160s.

Alan

Hi Alan, thanks for the input and concern. I e-mailed my Toyota mechanic buddy about the operating temp for the tranny and here is his reply:

Tundra transmission normal operating temperature is 122 - 176 degrees fahrenheit.
O/D Gear up-shift prohibition control (coolant temp. 140 F or less)
O/D lock-up prohibiton control ( coolant temp. 140 F or less )

So I believe I will be fine! I am quite interested to see what the temp does while pulling our trailer on the same stretch of level freeway. I won't be going 70, but perhaps 55-60 mph with the O/D off.

[lewisb62]

hey,

Has anyone thought about mounting the tranny cooler behind a custom bumper? Anyone know of a kit to do this?

Thanks.