Here's my 20lb bottle in the brackets I made. All the wiring is done, too. Today I'm doing the plumbing and the dual purge. My questions for those who run dry nitrous systems on their V8s are-
What spark plugs do you run?
What size jet/shot are you running?
Where in the intake did you meant the nozzle?
Do you have any timind retard?
How do you get extra fuel?
Very nice install. With a killer looking Bedrug, I don't imagine you haul much dirt,gravel or anything dirty. Looks like you should be able to soon haul @ss though!!
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Here's my 20lb bottle in the brackets I made. All the wiring is done, too. Today I'm doing the plumbing and the dual purge. My questions for those who run dry nitrous systems on their V8s are-
What spark plugs do you run?
What size jet/shot are you running?
Where in the intake did you meant the nozzle?
Do you have any timind retard?
How do you get extra fuel?
I'm no nitrous guru but I do know a little. I run a Zex wet system myself.
Stock plugs because I only use short bursts of not longer than 8 to 10 seconds.
125 shot and I use a paint ball regulator to even out the hits.
Mounted the injector in the intake tube about 8 inches before the throttle body. They recommend 6 to 18 inches before the throttle body and I do know of one guy who mounted it right in front of it.
Didn't retard the timing because I only use short bursts of nitrous and I have had no pinging.
Extra Fuel - As you already know even the dry systems need extra fuel to take advantage of the nitrous. They do this by increasing the pulse width signals going to the fuel injectors. Or did you mean a booster fuel pump?
This info is off the top of my head. You can always go to Zex.com and read their very informative site or call them with questions.
3 bucks a pound for nitrous isn't bad. I pay $4.50.
Might be an optical illusion but that 20 Lb bottle looks the same size as my 10 pounder and weighs 24 Lbs full.
Good Luck with your system.
I'm no nitrous guru but I do know a little. I run a Zex wet system myself.
Stock plugs because I only use short bursts of not longer than 8 to 10 seconds.
125 shot and I use a paint ball regulator to even out the hits.
Mounted the injector in the intake tube about 8 inches before the throttle body. They recommend 6 to 18 inches before the throttle body and I do know of one guy who mounted it right in front of it.
Didn't retard the timing because I only use short bursts of nitrous and I have had no pinging.
Extra Fuel - As you already know even the dry systems need extra fuel to take advantage of the nitrous. They do this by increasing the pulse width signals going to the fuel injectors. Or did you mean a booster fuel pump?
This info is off the top of my head. You can always go to Zex.com and read their very informative site or call them with questions.
3 bucks a pound for nitrous isn't bad. I pay $4.50.
Might be an optical illusion but that 20 Lb bottle looks the same size as my 10 pounder and weighs 24 Lbs full.
Good Luck with your system.
I'm running Bosch Platinum +4s right now. I'm not sure if I should go back to stock, or run a colder heat range or different gap. I'm not planning on running it for more than eight seconds at a crack.
I've got the jets to run an 85 shot(38) and 100 shot (47).
As far as the bottle size goes, off the top of my head, I think its about 10" by 24".
I like the idea of increasing the fuel pulse. Any ideas on how I would manage that one?
I mounted the nozzle about 5" from the TB. I dont like mounting it too far away, dont want nitrous bunching up from having to go through the bends.
I like the paintball regulator idea.
Any pics of your setup?
Though I haven't done nitrous on a Tundra yet,but I've installed dry,single fogger,and direct port systems before...
Platinum plugs are a no-no. The platinum will get "blasted" off,use regular copper plugs.
I don't know how you'll be able to retard ignition timing,at least mechanically,since there's no adjustments like distributor-based EFI systems.
The dry system already does auxiliary fueling. If you look in the installation directions a tee is installed between the solenoids and the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum reference hose. When you're "squeezing", a small amount of that nitrous goes to the regulator,which pushes the diaphragm,causing it to increase fuel pressure. Injector pulsewidth isn't increased,volume is what's increased due to the higher fuel pressure.
What brand system is that anyway? The ZEX bottles I have lying around are purple and NOS is blue. Is it a Venom bottle?
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Yea Eddie you’re right about getting the extra fuel from the regulator. That is the more common way. Increasing the pulse width to the injectors will also work but is much harder to do.
There is a way to retard the timing. I got this from an earlier nitrous thread.
<The TMC1.1 timing retard unit. You can get one at splitsecond.>
KGElster,
Do a search on "nitrous" threads. I've posted pics of my system a couple of times in there. If I do it again I think the Mods might want to have a talk with me. When I get a chance I'll put them in "my pics".
I don't believe I've taken a pic of the paint ball regulator in the system. I'll get one tomorrow.
Yea Eddie you’re right about getting the extra fuel from the regulator. That is the more common way. Increasing the pulse width to the injectors will also work but is much harder to do.
There is a way to retard the timing. I got this from an earlier nitrous thread.
<The TMC1.1 timing retard unit. You can get one at splitsecond.>
Those are for forced induction setups,not nitrous. Ignition timing is retarded depending on the amount of boost using a built-in pressure sensor. What's needed is a retard module,one that retards timing with a simple on/off trigger. I'm surprised Spit Second doesn't offer one,and most aftermarket modules aren't compatible with Toyota's individual ignitor/coil setups.
Increasing injector pulsewidth requires electronic methods. You're usually limited power-wise compared to conventional wet and dry systems since OEM injectors aren't large enough to deliver enough fuel for a large "shot". A perfect example are Venom's dry systems. Fueling is through increased injector pulsewidth,you have to splice into every injector's wiring. The largest jetting included with those systems aren't very large compared to other systems.
I am a new member, and I have a 2003 4.7 4WD access cab. Already made an intake and a catback exhaust then I got bored and decided to throw this together.
NOTATION: The thread "Pics of nitrous install" has been merged with " Installing my nitrous kit (photos included)" as they pertain to the same topic matter. --- Possum
Im not quite done with it, I still need to run the line to the bottle, hook up all the wiring and finish all of my hiding, but still quite a sleepy setup.
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you guys are crazy with the nos installs. i like the sleepy one too. arent any of you concerned with the strength of the bottom half? did you guys rebuild/fortify the bottom half?
just wondering. i know nos and fi are apples and oranges, but they both put alot of stress on the drivetrain.
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you guys are crazy with the nos installs. i like the sleepy one too. arent any of you concerned with the strength of the bottom half? did you guys rebuild/fortify the bottom half?
just wondering. i know nos and fi are apples and oranges, but they both put alot of stress on the drivetrain.
I think the bottom end of these motors are alot stronger than alot of people are thinking they are.