I like the convienient nifty feature of screwing the quart sized bottles right into the oil filler neck. Funnels not neseccary.
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Black 2000 SR5 AccessCab V8 4x4 / Debadged / Tow package / Factory Bedliner / Trans. rebuilt @ 72k / Stone Mountain headers / Flowmaster 50 series dual out the side / chrome tips / slotted and drilled rotors / air box mod / power outlet mod
I just got my Double Cab on Saturday and one of the last things the salesman said to me was to not change the intial factory oil until after 4500 miles because it's break-in oil. Is this true and what type of oil does the truck come pre-filled with?
Thanks!
the cars in the 50's had detergints in the oil to help the over size tolerance in the engines brake in. Now engines are made much better and don't need detergin oils, the factory recomends oil change every 5k miles,I do it every 3k and use mobil1 and factory filter no mater what kind of driving I do.And anoter thing all toyotas engines are pre run for an X amount of time,drain and fill before put in to the cars.
I prefer Mobil One as its as good or better than any syn oil on the market and much cheaper. In fact, Amsoil and a few others purchase their base stock directly from Mobil One!
To me the best oil on the market is the new Mobil One V-Twin.
I have the worst headache now after reading all this info on oil. All I know is that I have 5 free oil changes coming from my dealer when I want them and not based on mileage so I don't have to worry about this for at least a year. By then I will probably switch all my fluids over to synthetic and if all goes well I will not be looking to buy another truck for about 10-15 yrs.
Rick
__________________ My first Tundra, Reg. Cab, 4.0 V6, 2wd, White. Ziebart spray in bed liner and rustproofing. Vent Visors. Red Hellwig sway bar. Many mods to come.
I'm a long-term user of Amsoil fluids and filters (since they showed up in the Pacific Northwest. When I changed over to Toyota vehicles in '93, I continued using Amsoil. Their products cost less if you become a dealer.
I never had my oil analyzed, but I run dual bypass systems in addition to the full flow filter, and I've gone more than 120,000 miles without an oil change on my '92 pickup.
The ultimate evidence for me was the complete survival of my engine (without any damage) after running it for 10 minutes at 70 mph with the oil filler cap left off. The oil pressure gauge showed zero pressure, and the dipstick indicated no oil. I think there's probably a reserve amount of oil in the crankcase. Anyway, I'm convinced about the qualities of Amsoil.
Have used Castrol oils for many years in many vehicles, great stuff!
__________________ 2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
I just got my Double Cab on Saturday and one of the last things the salesman said to me was to not change the intial factory oil until after 4500 miles because it's break-in oil. Is this true and what type of oil does the truck come pre-filled with?
Thanks!
Why are there so my MYTHS about how the factory does things?? Who has SOLID answers about break-in oils, etc. I really like Toyotas!, but seems there are myths about everything from oils, spark plugs, limited slip differentials, fluids and a thousand other things. I know, just like many other things in life, opinions go a long way, but for the investment we put into our vehicles, seems there would be a lot of SOLID answers somewhere. I want to get the BEST value for the buck for anything I do for my 2006 Tundra DC. That's all I ask.
Use Castrol SAE 5W-30 cold weather and SAE 10W-30 warm weather
The oil company say to change your oil every 3000 miles. Your owners manual say every 7000 miles. That is why I change mine at 5000 miles right in the middle. (plus its Easier to remember to change 50k 55k 60k 65k etc.) I wonder why is their 4000 miles difference in the two. Wait I know the OIL Companies want to sell OIL and the Motor Companies want to sell Motors.
what should i use for the winter 5w-30 or 10w-30 mobil 1, sequoia 84,000 miles???
which one is thicker??
i have heard from other people that 10w-30 should be used in the winter and 5w30 in the summer???
and is 5w-30 to thin for 80,000+ miles or should i still continue to use that instead of 10w-40???
thanks
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92 lexus ls400 this was my 05' high school car (sold)
(at my buddy's house hooking up a system)
93 mercedes s500 (for sale)
68 barracuda blown/stroker over 900hp+ only driven less than 40miles (for sale)
what should i use for the winter 5w-30 or 10w-30 mobil 1, sequoia 84,000 miles???
which one is thicker??
i have heard from other people that 10w-30 should be used in the winter and 5w30 in the summer???
and is 5w-30 to thin for 80,000+ miles or should i still continue to use that instead of 10w-40???
thanks
Because you're in southern california, it's not going to really matter which one you use. You can run either one for 10,000 miles and up and you'll be fine (as long as you're using the OEM toyota filter or an equivalent filter that is just as excellent).
The only reason you'd run the 10w over the 5w is because over time oil will shear down and change to a lighter grade than when it started. Mobil 1 will do that also, but not unless you run way over 10,000 miles on the oil. So either one is just as good.
The other reason you might run 10w over 5w would be if your gaskets were a little worn and with 5w it leaked and with 10w it might not when it's cool. But you'd be better off using 20w in that case during the summer to stop that problem. Probably wouldn't happen during the cooler months anyway.
For the temperatures that you're going to see the 10w will be just as fine as the 5w. Theoretically, the 5w will flow better at cooler temps, but you'll never see the difference in your usage. The 10w synthetic is going to outperform 5w "regular" oil which is what is what Toyota is expecting you to use. So if you used 10w-30 synthetic you're better off than using 5w-30 dino oil.
To be honest, unless you go into the mountains during the winter down there you could run 5w-30, 10w-30, 5w-40, 10w-40, 0w-40 and even 20w-50 (this last grade is best at 50 degree and above year round) and you'd likely not even see a difference in gas mileage that you'd detect nor would you see a difference in engine longetivity. I've used all those grades regularly and measured the results and you won't see a difference in mileage or wear unless, unless you don't change your oil at proper intervals. If you go into 0 degree weather 20w is a bit on the thick side but it's not going to kill you as long as it's only a couple times during a winter. It's going to make it harder to turn the engine over during those temps. You'd hear the difference when you turned the engine over to start it. 5w would still leap to life.
If you've got the v-8, that's an extremely low wearing engine so 80,000 miles is practically new as far as engine wear goes.
But you might be looking at getting the valves adjusted at that mileage if you haven't already already.
Look Ma! No hands!
My first Tundra, Reg. Cab, 4.0 V6, 2wd, White. Ziebart spray in bed liner and rustproofing. Vent Visors. Red Hellwig sway bar. Many mods to come. 
2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
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