question what about fluid replacement i have now 100k and havent touch the fluid since brand new with 5 miles on my tundra. shall i just flush the old stuff out or get charged $100 to flush and remove the filter with a new toyota filter or just leave it alone? I have gotten many opinion on this, however not sure which is the best overall method to go with without causing any other long term problems later on...
Last edited by RockyMtnRay; 09-06-2004 at 02:22 PM.
Reason: Moderator note: Thread was split from another pertaining to checking fluid level on '05s...these posts were a totally different subject
You put 100K on the original tranny fluid? Does it shift ok?
Theres no filter on these trannies. Id say for the abuse youve put your tranny through, take it to the dealer and have them flush and refill your tranny.
__________________
Mods: Donahoe TCF coilovers, TC upper arms, rear Bilstein 5100s, Downey headers, 3" exhaust with Spintech Prostreet, BFG MT 285-70-17s on Helo Maxx 6 Chrome, Electric Brake controller. Tsunami RCA converter, PIE AUX adapter, LA Sound amp, MTX 10" band pass sub.
You put 100K on the original tranny fluid? Does it shift ok?
Theres no filter on these trannies. Id say for the abuse youve put your tranny through, take it to the dealer and have them flush and refill your tranny.
The guy at toyota stated there is a filter screen in my trans so does someone know if this tundra has it or not? The shift is fine on my tundra not any assoicated problem on my truck and it's been checked within the dealership service level (hooked to the computer for testing before my 100k warrenty was up) .The drain plug for trans is where in the tundra? can i just drain it myself and add fluid from the dip stick up front?....
With 100K miles, you are due for a full tranny flush which requires approx 4 gal (6qts) of fresh tranny fluid to do correctly. If you search this forum, you should be able to find complete step-by-step instructions from others that have done this (process involves disconnecting one of the hoses from the tranny cooler to flush the loop). Its fairly straight forward and will probably take you about an hour to complete.
If you plan on keeping the truck, would also recommend that you replace w/ synthetic ATF fluid (Mobil 1 or Amsoil). Also, with that many miles it would be good to add a can of Auto-RX to dissolve any deposits/sludge in the system prior to draining and flushing. It can be purchased at www.auto-rx.com
No filter, just a screen in the transmission sump.
I agree with the Auto-Rx for cleaning the transmission. Also use it for cleaning the power steering system, and replace the fluid with synthetic ATF.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
I flushed mine with synthetic at 30k, took about 15qts($$$$). But it gives me piece of mind, so it's worth it. But I thought I had read that at high mileage with stock tranny fluid, it's better not to do a complete flush with synthetic. I think KLS has a lot of good info., is it adviseable to flush with synthetic in this case?
In any case, a complete flush is relatively easy. You will completely fill a 14qt. drain pan, so have it ready. I know in my area, even the hazardous waste drop off doesn't like to take tranny fluid, so you might want to check into disposal before you start this job.
__________________
2001 2WD Silver Tundra: 4x4 TRD springs, Daystar 1", Carson AAL, red/blue Bilsteins, 265/75 Revo's, IS kit(minus bumper) and rims(hand polished), RF851X amp, Alpine HU, JL 6.5"XR comps, Qlogic with JL 8W3V2 subs. 185k miles and counting......
2005 Silver Sienna LE with 12" Overhead DVD
At the risk of sounding contrary, I've been told by others that the conventional wisdom regarding changing high mileage trans fluid is to leave it. At 100,000 miles, new transmission fluid will dissolve the varnish that has built up and will 1) contaminate your new fluid in a flash and 2) circulate in the transmission and clog things up. In addition, the varnish acts as a buffer that filled in the loosening tolerances of the transmission.
I was faced with this decision with my '88 Jeep Comanche. The fluid hadn't been changed in well over 100,000 miles. At over 200,000 miles on the truck, I opted to keep the old fluid because the transmission was performing fine and I figured, hey, if it ain't broke....
... that is why you circulate w/ Auto-RX first as it removes the varnish that may have built up over the years.... and then completely flush they system with fresh synthetic ATF to get all those "bad actors" outta there. At 100K miles, you are going to want to get as much fresh additives in there that you can (via fresh ATF) as the current oil is most likely heavily oxidated. Its this oxidation that causes most of the varnish/sludge to form.
If you leave the old fluid in to act as a bandaid to more serious problems, then you've already waited far to long to change your fluid (kind of like the old sawdust in the tranny trick... makes me think back to that ol' Andy Griffith episode where Barney buys a used car that the sellers had done this to...).
In short, if the tranny still feels solid and shifts good, do the complete flush. If it doesn't, probably better off investing your $$ on a new truck. As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure (and the so called "cure" usually ends up being snake oil in most cases).
Funny thing...I sort of forgot to change the tranny fluid in my '96 Corolla until it had 128,000 miles on it. The only major failure I ever had on the car??? Transmission failure...at 245,000 miles!
If I had only changed the fluid earlier...might have got a half million miles out of that transmission.
Definitely get new fluid in the tranny - go with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF.
Definitely get new fluid in the tranny - go with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. Brad
Mobil 1 is great for the transmissions requiring Dexron-III ATF. For the '03 and later Tundra transmissions that require T-IV ATF, either stick with Toyota's juice or add Lubegard black to Mobil 1 ATF (and keep quiet about it at the dealership).
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
if it were me, and i had plans to drive the truck till the wheels fell off, i would flip the extra for the trans flush at the dealer.
drive that puppy for a few thousand miles, then pull the trans pan. inspect the screen like filter, if it has one, and inspect the (4 magnets) epoxied to the bottom/inside if the transpan for metal debris. clean the magnets as best as possible, replace the transpan (use toyota's packing sealant) and fill the trans with the goodstuff. your trans may or may not have the magnets, my supra does. if it doesnt, consider it.
i perform that system every 60k mi and i got 8 magnets in my pan now.
my supra's tranny got +100k on it. i shift it as though it were a manual ("slack gas" between shifts) and just plain beat the crap out of my trans when im racing. my supra has seen many hard miles and my a340e still runs like a champ.
__________________
MODS: (TRD Urban package) - tint, stereo, jack-in-the box antennae ball, and my middle finger.
... Find any spelling errors? Take it up with admin.
...... btw If I offend anyone, get over it. I know I will.
......... Panties are optional.
~ been there, done that, got the panties ~
I am just doing a "drain and fill" every 10-15K. At 12500 miles I drained the tranny pan and about 4 quarts came out, still red and not that stinky. I added 4 quarts through the dipstick and now Im good for another 10-15K. If I just keep adding fresh ATF with fresh additives, I think it will be fine. I cant use anythign other that Toyota T-IV since I have an '03, otherwise Id put in some synthetic and do drain and fills every 25-50K
A word to the wise here. The tundra tranny bolt needs a new compression gasket at every change. The torque spec is only 15 FT-Pounds, *do not overtighten*. There is no real "fix" for a stripped out threads, you will have to replace the pan. Been there, done that, can't remember.
Well, I just changed out my transmission fluid (16 quarts I changed out, so I wasted a couple on an extended flush) yesterday 98K - I changed over to a full synthetic (Amsoil) right after purchasing it (2001). Changed out the pan oil twice since. When I dropped the pan the first time, I put in 2 large magnates and 4 fairly small magnates in place of the two feeble magnates that came stock. - yesterday I noticed very little gunk (next to nothing) on the magnates to my surprise. Last time I removed the pan I measured just shy of 5 quarts - this time I had 6 quarts on the nose when I measured the total amount of fluid removed from the pan. I also stripped out 3 - #6 screw holes in the housing - tried chasing the threads with a tap to no avail - one I was able to put a nut on top but the other two holes don't have that option. It hasn't started to leak yet but it will, so before putting back the skid plate, I think I'll tap 2 sizes up and go with a grade 8 threaded bolt.
I also stripped out 3 - #6 screw holes in the housing - tried chasing the threads with a tap to no avail - one I was able to put a nut on top but the other two holes don't have that option. It hasn't started to leak yet but it will, so before putting back the skid plate, I think I'll tap 2 sizes up and go with a grade 8 threaded bolt.
yep, almost forgot that caveot about pulling the trans pan. ALWAYS hand thread the bolts back in as far as the will comfortably go. Toyota is notorious for cross threading lotsa bolts at the factory, though ive not experienced any in critical places except for the bell housing on the tranny. Always use a torque wrench! i know the nuts are small, and the torque is light, but it pays. unless you turn wrench for a living, its hard to guesstimate less than 14 lbs of torque.
sorry bout your stripped holes dude.
"hey, that almost sounded like a bar joke" btw: i like your avitar!
__________________
MODS: (TRD Urban package) - tint, stereo, jack-in-the box antennae ball, and my middle finger.
... Find any spelling errors? Take it up with admin.
...... btw If I offend anyone, get over it. I know I will.
......... Panties are optional.
~ been there, done that, got the panties ~
Last edited by 42GAMI; 09-15-2004 at 04:00 PM.
Reason: ...
Transmission Fluid Change at 100K miles
my 10 cents
Linear Mode
