OK, here's a good lesson learned for oil changes on a Tundra.......
I did my second oil change (at 4,500 miles) and here's what I'd like to pass on to hopeully help someone on their next oil change. My good TS buddy EDJ created a post about changing the oil filter by putting a 1 gallon ziplock bag over the filter and slowly unscrewing the filter into the bag. I did that on my first oil change and it worked absolutely great. Not a drop of oil spilled and it took 1/2 hour to change the oil. So, human nature what it is, I figure that the next oil change (today) I'd try someone elses suggestion (remove the skid plate method to access the filter). I had read some rebuttals to that thread about how easy it is to change the oil by dropping the skid plate, and so, being the open minded guy that I am, I tried that method today.
BIG, BIG, BIG MISTAKE.................
To those of you who have not changed your oil yet, I would NOT recommend removing the skid plate to remove the filter. You have to remove at least (11) bolts + (2) snap plugs. If you have access to a 1 gallon ziploc bag, then there's absolutely NO REASON to have to do that. When you remove the skid plate, true, you can see the filter clear as a bell and your confidence level is up so you spin it off and then PLUNK, at that last thread, it PLOPS into the pan and SPITS up a bunch of dirty oil all over your driveway. WHAT A MESS (the V-8 filter base has this phenomena of just suddenly dropping when you get to the last thread). I don't know if the wife will EVER let me back in the house again! Even after putting newspaper down to catch "the few drips" I anticipated, when the filter plunked into the catch pan, 1/4 qt of dirty oil plopped out onto the driveway. Instant doghouse for Cloud 9. And don't think I haven't been around the block on this activity; oil changing on a variety of cars isn't anything new to me; I've been changing oil on many cars (and my own) for 35 years now and this was absolutely, hands down, the biggest mess I ever made. That stupid oil filter just DROPS OFF when it comes to the last thread and SUPRISE! It goes right into the pan you've got 6.4qts. of dirty oil in. WHAT A MESS IT MADE!!! Use the ziploc bag method, bottom line. It's cleaner, faster and less takes less effort. Trust me on this....there's no reason to remove parts you don't need to remove. Peace.
And please, all of you who think removing the skid plate to change the filter is the right thing to do, don't rebutt this post. I've done it both ways now and I will NEVER remove the skid plate to change out the filter again. Even if I didn't spill a drop, it still took longer (by having to R&R the plate) and without the ziplock bag, any "boo-boo" went right with gravity. My suggestion.......listen to my good buddy EDJ and use the ziplock method. It works great.
Cloud 9
There was a reason I was over 2 hours late to the Beach Jam last week......
Thats rite I wanted to do my 1st oil change...2 1/2 hrs later I was done.
I removed the skid plate, and although I didn't get a drop of oil on the floor....It was just a pain in the Rear!
I will be trying the bag or other suggestion on my next oil change.
__________________
2002 White 4x4 SR5 Ivan Stewart Tundra is the sky the limit ?
If time and no mess is your goal, then install the remote filter system - five (5) minutes top - that's right, you read it correctly, in 5 minutes you can spin the old filter off, fill the new filter with oil, attach it and you're done. If you drop the old filter prior to getting to your drain pan then you deserve the wrath from the War Department.
It's amazing -- some people can't do it right one way, and others can't do it right the other way.
I've made a BIG mess twice using the baggie method -- never again. It's too awkward for me to get at the filter that way.
I've used the skid plate method 13 times on my Tundra and 7 times on my wife's Sequoia and never spilled a drop. It takes about 45 minutes.
There is a trick to it, I've learned. I'll pass it on to those who use the skid plate method. The steps are:
1) Remove the plates.
2) Remove the drain plug and drain the oil, then replace the plug.
3) Fold two paper towels in half and stuff one end up beside the oil filter housing. Move the drain pan under the filter. Spin the filter LOOSE while you HOLD ONTO IT. When the seal breaks, some oil will drain from it and flow onto and down the paper towels into the drain pan. The towels keep it from flowing onto the frame.
4) Now spin the filter OFF while you HOLD ONTO IT. When the filter comes off, tip it sideways and empty it into the pan. I use a gallon milk jug with part of the top cut out as an old oil filter holder -- just dump the filter in and let go.
5) Wipe off the base of the filter mount, remove the paper towels and stuff them in with the old filter, and spin on a new filter.
6) Replace the skid plates.
7) Fill it with new oil.
Taste's great, less filling. I've never spilled a drop, but I have had the wind blow the draining oil over the side of the drain pan -- the wind didn't know I dropped the skid plates, though.
well...im a mechanic and i have access to a lift and air tools so dropping the skid plates are easy for me.20 minutes is what it takes me.i can see where it would be a pain in the butt without the goodys though.also put a quart of advanced slick 50 during my last oil change and it seems to have cured my cold engine deisel clatter about 75%!!
Yet another solution (sort of a combo of both methods) is to buy one of those great new Skidrow Skidplates from Eric (http://www.skidplates.com/skid_plates_tundra.htm) and you can easily see and change the oil filter with the skidplate on...problem solved for everyone!
I don't have one of these yet, but they look WAY better than the OEM plates, especially if you offroad a lot. This is my next purchase. I've only heard great things about these plates from other TS members. I am waiting for the t-case and transmission skidplates to buy the whole package.
remove the filter with the skid plate on and no ziplock bag. Just put the drain pan near the rear of the skid plate and let the drips fall where they may. Live with the mess.. Thats what I do. But again, to each his own.
Yeah, that's what I did my very first oil change with my truck. Then the oil keeps dripping for a few days out from in between the two layers of the skidplate all over my garage floor! After that, the plate comes off every time now! It's only an extra five minutes or so and the truck frame and plate stay a lot cleaner.
Like you said, to each his own
Andy
__________________
BFG A/T 285.75.16 / MT Classic II's / Fabtech Coilovers / TRD Add-a-Leafs / SkidRow skidplate / Snug Lid / Grey Line-X / Color-keyed front & rear bumpers / Hella Supertones / Husky floor liners / Amsoil bumper-to-bumper / K&N drop-in / Super Magnet oil drainplug / TRD radiator cap / 55w Aux reverse lights / DRL's disabled / Fog light mod / Map light mod / Power outlet mod / Back seat angle mod / Visor labels removed / TS sticker!
I do oil changes on the road sometimes, so I really dont feel like taking that darn mudguard off (lets face it, its no skid plate) I'm just lazy. If I'm at home, I just skwirt some degreaser down there and follow up with the hose. fun fun, dirty dirty.
Originally posted by Andy Yeah, that's what I did my very first oil change with my truck. Then the oil keeps dripping for a few days out from in between the two layers of the skidplate all over my garage floor! After that, the plate comes off every time now! It's only an extra five minutes or so and the truck frame and plate stay a lot cleaner.
Like you said, to each his own
Andy
Hey Andy you did just what I did on my first oil change. And yes it did drip for the next couple of days until I had time to take off the skid plate and clean it up.
__________________ SATundra
2001 Limited, V8, 2wd, TRD, Metallic Silver Sky MODS:
TIRES: Michelin LTX M/S LT265/75/R16 load C rated
SUSPENSION: front - red/blu 4x4 HD Bilsteins shocks & HD TRD 4x4 coils providing 1.75" lift, rear - TRD add-a-leafs, Hellwig swaybar, yell/blu 4x4 Bilsteins INTERIOR: CB-Ham/Scanner/150W linear amp in custom console, 10 disc CD player, Donnelly comp/temp mirror, Toyota All Weather floormats, tinted windows, radar detector, backseat angle mod, EXTERIOR: Grizzly SS brushguard, Better Built alum toolbox w/lights, Weatherflector Ventvisors, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, SteelHorse Bull Rings, Mobil 1 oils, 2 TS stickers, 2 TS license frames, 2 www.TundraSolutions.com stickers, ELECTRICAL: 55W undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, 55W underhood lights, DEI alarm, 12V Acc plug/engine compartment, 400watt power inverter, foglight/cargolight/acc plug/maplight mod
Removing the skid plate is another good reason to own a air compressor. Use a 3/8 drive air ratchet and you can have it removed in about 2 minutes. I tried changing it without removing the plate the first time and after I changed it with the skid plate off the next time I vowed I would never try again without removing it.
Mitch
Oil changes
The need for speed
Linear Mode
