Tundra rear main seal

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by Brad's Dad

Does it take a super tech to decide wether the pan gasket or rear main is leaking once the tranny is off or are the chances they'll just replace the seal (already ordered - other gaskets not) and wait for further problems?

Good info on synthetics - I'll research before changing over!!

No super tech needed. It is obvious. Either the seal is leaking or it isnt.
If it isnt, your 1/2 way there. lift engine drain oil and remove and reseal pans. The oil pans use FIPG (Form In Place Gasket)no gasket material.
The right rear corner is usually where the leak originates.

[nneil]

My 2004 Tundra Double cab had a rear main seal leak right from the start.

They said it was the way they put the manifold on, when it was seated at the factory it was pushed forward taking all the liquid gasket material off of it and the oil splashing was making it leak from the backof the engine.. Since they already removed my tranny and had to drop the motor to fix it.. They also replaced the rear main seal while they are in it.

Lenny

[seefutt]

Originally Posted by Brad's Dad

Well, I'll join in here. '06 DC 4WD, 15,000 miles. Dealer says back of engine oil leak is probably the rear main seal after a dye test but no pull apart yet. Appointment made for repair. I am unable to find any TSB's on Tundra rear main oil leaks but another dealers mechanic said he found one for a 2WD only. Yet it sounds like plenty of us have had rear main seal problems. Anybody familiar with any of this? Does Toyota pay the dealer to find the source of the seal damage problem or just to replace the seal? Thanks for any help on this one!!

Been there; http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...le-cab-tundra/

[Mike Donofrio]

Okay, so I am leaking some oil too. Though the '00 Tundra has made it to 160K before it started so I am pretty psyched. Curious about the oil pans, because I haven't really assessed them as the problem...yet. I am thinking crank slop/bearing could be the problem if the rear main is leaking. Not sure if I should do the work or just pull the motor and have it overhauled anyway.

I am thinking I can unbolt the tranny and hoist the motor to get it off of the mounts enought to remove the oil pans. Will this work? Or is there a shortcut? Anything else I should know?

Also, is replacing the main seal something I can do in my driveway or do I need any SSTs? I have a seal driver...I figured if I replace the main seal and it winds up leaking again, I can confirm crank bearings and therefore a rebuild. I just didn't want to go there this year.

[shall36]

Looking at the FSM, they call for removing the engine to remove the oil pans. Seeing what's involved in that, I would seriously try to find the actual source of the leak and replace whatever seal had failed. If it's a rear main seal, you should be able to get it out and get a new one in by dropping the trans. The front crank seal would require taking off the timing belt to get to. As for special tools, I try to find some type of piping to tap in the new seals. For the rear main, You could probably fab something up from large PVC pipe to do the trick. Sometimes, you can get away just pushing it in with your fingers to get it started, then go around the seal, tapping with a hammer.

I don't think I would mess with a rebuild. I would go with a Toyota short block before I did that. You'll probably get another 100K on the current piston and rings. I also doubt that it's the oil pan that's leaking. It's possible, but not likely. The rear and front main seals are much more likely culprits.

[Mike Donofrio]

geez, I hope it's not the front seal. The rear is much easier to get at, IME. And since I am not ready to do the t-belt yet, I am hoping I can wait on this for a while. I am going to do an oil change this weekend and clean everything up, then lay underneath and wait for the drip to pinpoint it. I figured I would have to make my own Rear Seal Driver tool or something if I have to do that. My gut is telling me that it's the pan, but I will likely plan for the pans and main seals. And like I said, only rebuild it if 100% necessary. How long can I expect the valvetrain and crank bearings to last in this motor? I've known guys that got over 1/4 million miles, but my truck gets wheeled alot so it's been flogged quite a bit.

As far as the overhaul, there is a guy near me that does Toyota engine rebuilds. He told me if I bring him the block he will do the remaining labor including a valve job and check cams and crank to spec, replace all bearings and seals for about $1800. I have decided that I am going to keep the Tundra as an off road rig and want to get at least 500K out of the block. It's OK if it's garage-bound for months at a time as it's no longer my daily driver. But I want the work done right and let's face it, an oil leak from the bottom of your rig is sort of a pride thing. I am embarrassed to park in people's driveways. I've seen short block prices around $5000, unless you know of anything cheaper. I am probably getting ahead of myself. but since restoration is the works, it's a good thing that I am looking to the future. I was hoping to only remove the motor one time and do allt he work then...

[Brad's Dad]

Thought I'd follow up on my rear main seal fix (a little different spin from other people's experience). My dealer pulled the tranny only, noticed that some FIPG gasket on the rear main seal plate (a bolted on thin steel plate that surrounds the main) was bulging and leaking oil. But, they replaced the main seal while they were in there, cleaned up and resealed the plate with FIPG. I made the point repeatedly in advance and in writing that if the rear main seal was the problem I needed them to check the crank or rear main bearing as the reason it failed. No need I guess..... time will tell.

[Mike Donofrio]

Originally Posted by Brad's Dad

Thought I'd follow up on my rear main seal fix (a little different spin from other people's experience). My dealer pulled the tranny only, noticed that some FIPG gasket on the rear main seal plate (a bolted on thin steel plate that surrounds the main) was bulging and leaking oil. But, they replaced the main seal while they were in there, cleaned up and resealed the plate with FIPG. I made the point repeatedly in advance and in writing that if the rear main seal was the problem I needed them to check the crank or rear main bearing as the reason it failed. No need I guess..... time will tell.

Hrrmm, the only time I've gotten in that far was on the 22re. But I never thought that the bellhousing plate had FIPG on it, I seem to remember a weep hole to allow the oil to drain and warn you if there was a main seal leak. Good that you had the seal fixed, but I am not sure how I feel about the FIPG on the bellhousing plate. I think that would just fix the sympton (leaking oil) without addressing the underlying cause. Am I just confused, or putting too much faith in transferring my 22re knowledge forward to the 2UZ world. Durn, now I gotta get off my a$$ and actually look under there. ;-) Soon, I promise.

[Brad's Dad]

Dealer called it a "rear main housing plate" and gave me a copy of the diagram showing the part and exploded view of it's location from the service manual. I don't think the part they thought was leaking is the same as the bell housing plate.

I know what you are saying, I first noticed oil coming out that weep hole from the lower base of the bell housing. In the diagram, this rear housing plate looks small, just barely taller than the width of the oil seal and maybe twice as wide. Wish I had the ability to post the diagram but.........

[Tundradrenalin]

Brad's Dad, these diagrams what you're looking for? There's one in there for Mustang's oil pan #1 and #2 also.

[Brad's Dad]

It's the same general part but not the same design. Your diagram must be from a different engine. My diagram from the dealer shows a smaller oil seal retainer (in height) and maybe a little in width. Mine has no O ring but the plate appears to do the same thing, hold the rear main seal. Sorry for the delay in responding.

[Tundradrenalin]

Ahhh ok, I'll dig some more. I've got the digital but no TOC or index to go by...