need help, middle of header install

[ThomasE]

Hey guys, I started installing a set of jba headers and I got stuck. I'm trying to separate the stock manifolds from the catalytic convertors, they're joined by 3 studs/split nuts. I got the nuts loosened so they all spin freely and they almost off, but I can't get them off the studs, like they hung up on a lip. But I don't see anything. How do I get the 3 nuts off? These nuts look the same as the nuts attaching the manifold to the head. They have 2 slots down the side on them. Also are the nuts attaching the manifold to the head as tight as the manifold to the convertors? If so I'm going to have to use a impact wrench for those and I'm not sure that it will be effective seeing that I need to also have a universal joint in there.

[Toy4ever]

When I did mine earlier this year I let the exhaust manifolds to cat. pipe bolts soak for a couple of hours in liquid wrench. Your best bet is to break them off and put in new bolts and nuts. Also on the nuts going into the heads they should come off fairly easy. Mine did. Just make sure the nut your are using is on flush before you put any torque to it. I had to jack up the engine and remove the engine mounts to do mine. It made it easier for me. Some people did it without removing them. I just found it easier due to the size of my hands and arms......Good luck.....Remember not to reuse the same lock nuts. BUY NEW ONES......Any local hardware store should have new lock nuts that will work. Make sure they are lock nuts.

[ed brewer]

I didn't run into any problems with any of my collector flange bolts. All six came right off. Those bolts are the same 14mm lock nuts that are on the manifold flange. Did you spray everything down with something like PB Blaster? Just crank em off with your breaker bar. I think some people have just used a nut splitter on those, since they won't be reused. If you haven't sprayed everything down real good, I suggest you do. It really does help. If you haven't taken your heat shields off yet, do and then spray all of the manifold bolts down real good.

Do you have all the tools you need to do the job? Get as many extensions you can (2ft. plus) You definitely need universals...I broke one (3/8") during my install. I used 1/2" drive sockets where I could, and 3/8" on the rest. Although 3/8" will do fine (my 1/2" ratchet is 18" and provided excellent leverage). Those lock nuts really pop when they break loose! Kinda scares you the first couple of times. 6 Pt. 14mm sockets deep/mid/. Get a 14mm ratcheting closed end wrench for nuts on the JBAs. Passenger side is definitely easier than the Driver's side. Patience, patience.....

Do a search on header install and you will find excellent write-ups from members that have done this install.

Good luck....you will get it done. You will really like the results

Ed

[dezert_rida]

Hey guys, I started installing a set of jba headers and I got stuck. I'm trying to separate the stock manifolds from the catalytic convertors, they're joined by 3 studs/split nuts. I got the nuts loosened so they all spin freely and they almost off, but I can't get them off the studs, like they hung up on a lip. But I don't see anything. How do I get the 3 nuts off? These nuts look the same as the nuts attaching the manifold to the head. They have 2 slots down the side on them. Also are the nuts attaching the manifold to the head as tight as the manifold to the convertors? If so I'm going to have to use a impact wrench for those and I'm not sure that it will be effective seeing that I need to also have a universal joint in there.

Take a sawlzall to the studs and cut them off. If you have an oxy\acteyline torch, burn em off.

Soak the fastners with a lubricant, then loosen everything up. Dont forget to pull the O2 sensors out.

The job CAN be done without power tools but will not be any fun at all. Deffinitely use impact power swivel sockets.

You can jack the motor up if you want to but is not necessary. Just pull the rubber splash shields in the fender wells, the skid plate, and the wheels if your doin it on the ground.

[ThomasE]

I'm going to buy a nut splitter tomorrow to see if I can get those 3 nuts off connecting the manifold to convertor flanges. I haven't been able to get any of those off either side. If the splitter doesn't work I'll cut the studs.

I took off the 6 easier to get to manifold to cylinder head nuts for each side through the wheel well as suggested, those weren't too bad. Now I have to find a semi-deep socket to get the 2 nuts behind the engine mount. The liquid wrench definately helps, some manifold nuts were really easy to get off, a couple were pretty tight and let go with a real loud snap. Getting closer...

[romar]

When I did mine earlier this year I let the exhaust manifolds to cat. pipe bolts soak for a couple of hours in liquid wrench. Your best bet is to break them off and put in new bolts and nuts. Also on the nuts going into the heads they should come off fairly easy. Mine did. Just make sure the nut your are using is on flush before you put any torque to it. I had to jack up the engine and remove the engine mounts to do mine. It made it easier for me. Some people did it without removing them. I just found it easier due to the size of my hands and arms......Good luck.....Remember not to reuse the same lock nuts. BUY NEW ONES......Any local hardware store should have new lock nuts that will work. Make sure they are lock nuts.

I'm with Toy4ever on this one. I'd scrap the nut splitter idea and spend the money on new hardware.

[ed brewer]

Now I have to find a semi-deep socket to get the 2 nuts behind the engine mount.

I couldn't find a semi-deep socket. I ground down a deep socket (thanks mandzach for the tip) about 3/4" to fit those 4 nuts inside the motor mounts. Worked perfectly. You could use a hacksaw to cut it down too. You're almost there!!!

ed

[CATiger]

I couldn't find a semi-deep socket. I ground down a deep socket (thanks mandzach for the tip) about 3/4" to fit those 4 nuts inside the motor mounts. Worked perfectly. You could use a hacksaw to cut it down too. You're almost there!!!

ed

Believe it or not, I was able to use a 14mm 1/4" drive deep socket with a little finesse for the the nuts behind the motor mount. Using a long piece of scrap aluminum handrail on the end of the socket wrench, I used some soft blows with a little sledge hammer (claw hammer would be sufficient) to break them loose. I was able to tighten by hand. Just a thought, those hardened steel sockets are hard to saw/grind, and medium deep sockets in metric are hard to come by.

I recommend using all new toyota hardware - header & collector gaskets, header lock nuts (get 6 extra for the collector flange) and reuse the header bolts without removing.

As for the removing original collector bolts, despite soaking, twisting, soaking and twisting, I was still forced to cut 2 driver's side bolts to remove the manifold. 3 on the PS and 1 on the DS spun off no problem.

Good luck!

[biggary]

I highly recommend that you jack up the engine just enough to relieve the pressure and loosen or remove the motor mounts. It made things so much easier than trying to fight it. No doubt you can do it either way but why punish yourself when you could be out driving it again?

Good Luck - either way!

[ThomasE]

I finally got off all 6 of the manifold to cat nuts . Used a nut splitter on 4 of them, 1 stud snapped off, and 1 nut came off by brute force breaker bar and pipe. Tomorrow I'll cut down a 14mm deep socket so it will fit inside the motor mount and remove the final 2 header nuts on each side. All header nuts that I've pulled off so far are in perfect shape.

Just in case I have to remove the motor mount, where exactly would I position a jack to support the engine? I gather a jack under the oil pan would be a bad idea?

[nedjames]

Put a smooth piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan, being careful to stay away from the drain plug. Do one side at a time.

[biggary]

Put a smooth piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan, being careful to stay away from the drain plug. Do one side at a time.

That's what I did. You only have to lift it enough to take the pressure off so it doesn't take much. And I would agree with the suggestion to only do one side at a time, but I'm not sure it's necessary - I just think it can't hurt.

[ThomasE]

OK it's all downhill from here. I got both manifolds off, and was able to remove both oxygen sensors easily. Was about to use the old angle grinder to cut down a craftsman deep well socket when I got a case of butter fingers, dropped the grinder, and snapped the cutoff wheel in half! Decided to try a hacksaw instead and it was easy, I cut down the socket and squared off the cut with a flat file in 5 minutes. Removing the 2 nuts behind each motor mount using the cutdown socket and swivel was also easy. Now I just have to clean up all the surfaces, and put everything back together with a generous dose of anti-seize, just in case.

If it weren't for this forum, I don't think I'd ever have the guts to try putting on headers myself. The little tricks you guys gave really worked! I uploaded some pix of the headers vs. stock manifolds, and the cut down socket. Oh, and check out the picture of the 280hp 6spd manual mod I did last month.

[ed brewer]

ThomasE: Well....how do you like the results? Bet your glad you finished! I know I was. Takes a while for the ECU to adjust so it does get better and better. BTW...NICE 280HP/6sp. mod

Ed

[ThomasE]

Hey Ed, thanks for the compliments on the G35.

I finished up the header yesterday and am glad I'm done. All in all I'd have to say it's not as bad as I had imagined thanks to the tips from folks like you. To those comtemplating DIY install of headers, the manifold nuts really were no problem for me, even the 2 behind each motor mount were a cinch. I did not remove the motor mounts. The hardest part was the 3 nuts on each side connecting the headers to the cats, I screwed around with those for at least 2 hours before I gave up and used a nut splitter. Someone else told me not to bother and simply snap off or cut those studs. I'm in the bay area California and have been no where near snow or salted roads so it must be the heat off the cats more than rust making those nuts so hard to remove. Main thing is patience, take your time to do everything right. Honestly removal of the old manifolds etc... is 75-80% of the effort. Putting the new headers on is very quick. For those wondering if they can do the job, as a reference, I had zero prior experience doing any kind of header or exhaust work.

The results, feels a little quicker off the line and should only get better. Some say there's no exhaust sound change but there is absolutely a throatier sound after the jba headers. I still have the stock exhaust and contemplating a muffler or cat back as a Christmas gift!