I have been thinking about adding a locker for some time. I have decided to use an ARB rather than a full time due to the amount of weight that I tow and how often that happens.
I am thinking of putting one on the front only because it is always easier to pull something that push it.
I do understand that the rear would be nice because I could engage it while in 2wd. I am figuring though that if I need the locker I should already be in 4wd.
Is the front drive train stout enough to handle any extra stresses from a locker?
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
For off road performance the rear is the best place to put it. Yue need the locker most when climbing, and when your climbing you transfer weight to the rear wheel. They need the most traction. Since your going with ARB (the best imo) you wont have to worry about on road performance.
__________________ 2004 Toyota Tundra RWD Access Cab:
4.7L i-force, Phantom Gray Pearl, Gray Interior,SR5, TRD Sport, Towing Package(Reciever Removed)
TRD Supercharger, TRD Air Filter, TRD Headers, Hi-Flow Cats, Bassani Dual exhaust, RAPS Intake, Denso Iridium Plugs, SOS Perf 2" front drop, SOS Perf 4-link, coil over rear suspension (4" drop),TRD Enkei 20X9.5 w/Pirelli Scorpion Zero 295/40 R20 Rear and 265/45 R20 Front, Glassworks Unlimited Hood , custom rollpan w/ dual rear exahaust outlet, SET flares, T3 Grill, Alpine CDA-9835 HU, Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.5 components up front, 6.5 Coaxials in back, Infinity Reference 560 watt 4-channel, Infinity Basslink-T Sub, Debadged, and paraplegic hand controls.
0-60 / 6.95 sec.!!! 350 RWHP
Planned for the near future(I have it, now I just need to get it on the truck!!): Unichip, BSM Color Matching
Planned for the less near future
Seat and Harness!,Rear Disc, Bigger front brakes(I spend time at Thunder Hill and Laguna Seca),IPT Valve Body, SOS/TRD Intercooler, Overdrive Pulley, Suggestions Welcome GO COUGS!!!
The front diff stinks--no doubt. The spider gears are teeny-tiny, I know I have already toasted one and know several members here that are on their second front diff as well.
Birdog0 has a Lock Right in his front and swears by it, with a No Slip out back. The way the front diff works you can put in a locker and not even notice in until you engage the 4WD. Having seen ths guts of a Tundra front diff: there is an engagment fork that locks up the driver's side half shaft when you switch to 4WD, in 2WD with a locker-the diff wouldn't do anything at all but sit there with one half shaft freewheeling.
Do not do a front only and leave the rear open even with an ARB. The resulting windup of having the front locked could be an expensive day at the park.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
true 4WD when needed: lends to all sorts of good and bad things!
For starters, do NOT lock the front with out the rear having the same capability. Once you lock the front, what you've known as 4WD on your truck and how it handles will be forever changed. Lock your rear first--the sheer difference of true 3WD versus your "open" 4WD will blow your mind. If you then fond the need to have the front locked...have at it, but be aware of how the 4WD operations of your truck will differ!
I'm not sure how ARB works or installs, but the lockrite/No-slip by passes the need for the teeny-tiny, damage prone spider gears some engineering nut decided to place in these ft/rr ends. Spider gears gone, say bye to the problems they cause.
I replaced my front dif with a locker because I had the stock front dif disentegrate...when putting the front locker in, it was advised to have the rear as well. It was good advice! As a result, I've found I can get into and out of 95% of the off-road situations with just the rear locker alone (2WD) In fact, I'm doing more in 2WD than what was previously done in stock 4WD. I save my 4WD now for absolute neccessity...I used it once when I first got it to "see what I could climb". Well, let's just say that with the proper rubber on the ground, the truck in true 4WD will get you there....and beyond....and more than likely into places you really had no desire to get to in the first place. It'll get you into trouble basically, if you want it to. Hence, my opening statement...
__________________
2004 Pontiac GTO
2005 Dodge Magnum Special Edition SXT
1991 Honda Nighthawk 750
1987 4Runner
just for clarification, youre considering a locker in the front with an open rear, correct?
-s
Yeah Sean that's right.
Thanks for all the input fellas.
I had been thinking about it and do like the idea of being able to lock the rearend when I am pulling the boat out of the lake. This way I can be in 2wd w/a locked rear, that alone will be WAY better than having open difs.
Plus if I already have one in the rears with the compressor and determine that a front locker is needed I can just add the locker alone.
NOW, Where should I install my compressor???
Under the truck? In the bed? Behind the frame rail? Infront of the rear bumper? In the engine compartment?
Throw out some goods and bads for a compressor location.
For most stuff the lockrite is a great option and fairly EZ to install- then you wont need to find room for a compressor (BTW I just blew an O ring on my ARB and cant wait to get rid of it!!)
Definately lock the rear first.
__________________
-------------------------
Got a question 'bout TS.com? You'll probably find your answer HERE!
Looking for an answer to your Tundra, Sequoia, Tacoma, Highlander, or 4Runner question? Try HERE!
For most stuff the lockrite is a great option and fairly EZ to install- then you wont need to find room for a compressor (BTW I just blew an O ring on my ARB and cant wait to get rid of it!!)
Definately lock the rear first.
Which one front or rear?
__________________
2001 TRD 4x4 with a lift kit & a bone stock 2008 TRD 4x4
I had been thinking about it and do like the idea of being able to lock the rearend when I am pulling the boat out of the lake. This way I can be in 2wd w/a locked rear, that alone will be WAY better than having open difs.
Plus if I already have one in the rears with the compressor and determine that a front locker is needed I can just add the locker alone.
NOW, Where should I install my compressor???
Under the truck? In the bed? Behind the frame rail? Infront of the rear bumper? In the engine compartment?
Throw out some goods and bads for a compressor location.
Thanks again.
I just posted a pic of my recent ARB compressor install, if you have that anti-lock B.S. you may be a little more challenged for space though . I kind of like the idea of keeping it high and dry, but you can look at some of my pics and understand why .
__________________
2001 TRD 4x4 with a lift kit & a bone stock 2008 TRD 4x4
I'm not sure how ARB works or installs, but the lockrite/No-slip by passes the need for the teeny-tiny, damage prone spider gears some engineering nut decided to place in these ft/rr ends. Spider gears gone, say bye to the problems they cause.
ARB replaces the entire carrier.
TMS2U,
What o-ring failed on you? I have wheeled for years with some pretty hardcore ARB equiped rigs and only ever seen an output spline failure on one.
__________________ 2004 Toyota Tundra RWD Access Cab:
4.7L i-force, Phantom Gray Pearl, Gray Interior,SR5, TRD Sport, Towing Package(Reciever Removed)
TRD Supercharger, TRD Air Filter, TRD Headers, Hi-Flow Cats, Bassani Dual exhaust, RAPS Intake, Denso Iridium Plugs, SOS Perf 2" front drop, SOS Perf 4-link, coil over rear suspension (4" drop),TRD Enkei 20X9.5 w/Pirelli Scorpion Zero 295/40 R20 Rear and 265/45 R20 Front, Glassworks Unlimited Hood , custom rollpan w/ dual rear exahaust outlet, SET flares, T3 Grill, Alpine CDA-9835 HU, Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.5 components up front, 6.5 Coaxials in back, Infinity Reference 560 watt 4-channel, Infinity Basslink-T Sub, Debadged, and paraplegic hand controls.
0-60 / 6.95 sec.!!! 350 RWHP
Planned for the near future(I have it, now I just need to get it on the truck!!): Unichip, BSM Color Matching
Planned for the less near future
Seat and Harness!,Rear Disc, Bigger front brakes(I spend time at Thunder Hill and Laguna Seca),IPT Valve Body, SOS/TRD Intercooler, Overdrive Pulley, Suggestions Welcome GO COUGS!!!
It was the compressor itself. Lucky for me it didn't leave me in a lurch, cuz its not an easy trail fix.
I'm gonna run both lockers off of a CO2 tank so all I need is to decide which manifold I want to use. Powertank has a pretty nice one, but its a bit pricey
__________________
-------------------------
Got a question 'bout TS.com? You'll probably find your answer HERE!
Looking for an answer to your Tundra, Sequoia, Tacoma, Highlander, or 4Runner question? Try HERE!
For most stuff the lockrite is a great option and fairly EZ to install- then you wont need to find room for a compressor (BTW I just blew an O ring on my ARB and cant wait to get rid of it!!)
Definately lock the rear first.
I tow too many times in a year to have an auto locker, I need it to be able to disengage. If I have a locker and tow the 19' searay that weights well over 3k lbs I could break something going around corners.
Have to be able to disengage.
I don't mind finding a place for an air compressor, plus I am only going to be running 33" tires which I could use in a pinch to air up after going off road. I really like the versatility of having a compressor. I don't get as crazy as you do with your Tundra. I am really only getting the locker for towing trailers in mud and for pulling the boat out of the lake, plus it will be fun to use when I want to do some minor crawling.
Thanks for the info all and I love the Tundra wash pic.
I like the idea of keeping it dry so under the hood or in the box she will go.
It was the compressor itself. Lucky for me it didn't leave me in a lurch, cuz its not an easy trail fix.
I'm gonna run both lockers off of a CO2 tank so all I need is to decide which manifold I want to use. Powertank has a pretty nice one, but its a bit pricey
Throw in some more info on the tank, I have seen this and contemplated it.
How much you talkin about? What does it cost to fill the tank?
Opinion on locker for front or rear.
.
Linear Mode
