I might have a similar problem. On a level of 1-10 (10 being the most difficult), what would you grade this whole "operation" for someone who has a good amount of knowledge in mechanics?
I'd give it about a 6. Thanks to this BB, you know what to do. Its mainly just time consuming. Just make sure you note how everything is hooked up before taking it apart. If I had to do it again, I'd probably take a digital pic of the connections. I had a buddy of mine helping, and we both assembled the same side we took apart. Seemed to work pretty well. It also helped having an extra hand to lift the intake assembly out...
I'd give it about a 6. Thanks to this BB, you know what to do. Its mainly just time consuming. Just make sure you note how everything is hooked up before taking it apart. If I had to do it again, I'd probably take a digital pic of the connections. I had a buddy of mine helping, and we both assembled the same side we took apart. Seemed to work pretty well. It also helped having an extra hand to lift the intake assembly out...
How long did it take you? I am hoping I will have my friend help me work on this, he knows a wealth about mechanics. Is there a step by step instruction on this BB on how to do it?
How long did it take you? I am hoping I will have my friend help me work on this, he knows a wealth about mechanics. Is there a step by step instruction on this BB on how to do it?
It took us about 4-hours from start to finish. I enjoy doing stuff like this, but don't consider myself very experienced by any means... So I would imagine you can probably do it quicker. I basically followed Victor and Eddie's posts off this thread for the instructions. Disconnect the lines going to the throttle body, fuel rails, and upper plenum assembly, unbolt the 10-12 bolts going into the head, pull out the assembly, remove the (tiny) starter/solenoid, repair the solonoid as posted, and put everything back together.
Thank you all for the information. I'm ordering the parts and doing this soon.
My Tundra seems to have the intermittent start problem more and more these days. It will click 3 or 4 times....then start up like there was no problem.
A special thanks to tamu tundra for posting the part numbers, and mustang67408 and eddie for the detailed instructions!
Before you go to all that trouble you might want to replace the relay first. I had the same issue. I actually even replaced the starter, but the problem came back. Once I replace the relay, I had it happen one time after that and it's not happened since. And that was sometime this summer I finally swapped it out. It's about $50 and 10 minutes of work. It's probably a LOT less if you can find the relay at other than Toyota.
But it's solved my problem and I had exactly the same issue. It was getting worse and worse. I even swapped the battery out - but I'm glad I did that anyway.
My system works like a champ now and I didn't have to resort to the contact change. I think what happens is that the relay is too weak to have the contacts connect properly and eventually they become a problem. But if you fix the relay, then the contacts don't matter so much as they hit solidly now.
Mine use to happen mostly when it was hot and off for 10 minutes and restarting. Or when it was cold in the morning. Now it never happens. And I'm glad because it was getting me mad since it was happening since 6,000 miles!
Alan
Quote:
Originally Posted by leadsled
Thank you all for the information. I'm ordering the parts and doing this soon.
My Tundra seems to have the intermittent start problem more and more these days. It will click 3 or 4 times....then start up like there was no problem.
A special thanks to tamu tundra for posting the part numbers, and mustang67408 and eddie for the detailed instructions!
I'm really surprised that replacing the relay didn't solve your issue. I've got the same starter and after I replaced the relay it's been fine. Even through this cold weather when it always used to occur in the mornings.
I did have the issue happen one time right after I replaced the relay (at about the normal interval of every couple, three weeks) but after that time it hasn't happened and it's going on six months now.
I think the issue is that the relay isn't strong enough for some reason and the contacts don't touch like they should. After a while they might get some buildup which then interfers. But a good solid contact fixed the issue for me. I figured either it was relay in the system or the switch, but a relay would be my first guess. If it was 150,000 miles later I would have thought it was a hard contact issue somewhere. That's when starters are usually toast.
Alan
Quote:
Originally Posted by leadsled
tamu tundra,
What was the difference in the two different part numbers for the contacts. I'm looking at the parts in the two bags and they appear to be identical.
I just want to make sure I get the correct parts on the correct side of the starter.
By the way, my starter is part of the "Cold Weather Package", so the part numbers for the contacts are different than yours: 28226-72010, 28226-74070.
Yes, I too was hoping that it was just the relay. Oh well, I guess I know what I'll be doing over Christmas Holiday.
leadsled
Be sure to take lots of digital pictures along the way. I'm sure that it easier for anyone else doing it. Too, sooner or later people are going to have to replace the starters and it would nice to have that documented before it starts happening in a major way since it's such a headache.
the work in general is not that hard if you are experienced at mechanicial repairs and have a good torque wrench. there is more adversity involved in this job because after you have removed the intake plenums and runners you have to lay on top of the fender/engine bay to be able to reach the starter bolts and wire harness securing bolt. the starte bolts are accessed on the firewall side of the engine and are not the easiest to work with. patience is the main key here...and good luck!
thread resurrection...this had the best tech advice of the threads i looked at.
this morning, first time ever, roughly 130K miles, got the massive CLICK sound when i turned the key.
battery has plenty of juice, contacts are clean, everything is except no turnover just a CLICK. it's not the pop-pop-pop-pop sound like when the battery is low or whatever, and i assume the CLICK is the relay engaging.
it did start after a couple turns of the key, first it did about a quarter turnover, sounded like a huge GRUNT, then stopped. next round it started like normal.
does this sound like the same problem? if so, i will do the same procedure outlined by eddie and mustang. if thats the case, where's the best place to disconnect the fuel line from the intake plenum group?
and also it sounds like i disco the t/b from the plenum and leave it in the bay, but remove the plenum/rails/etc...correct?
what sort of sealant/gasket maker stuff goes between the plenum and block, if any? just the factory gasket?
thread resurrection...this had the best tech advice of the threads i looked at.
this morning, first time ever, roughly 130K miles, got the massive CLICK sound when i turned the key.
battery has plenty of juice, contacts are clean, everything is except no turnover just a CLICK. it's not the pop-pop-pop-pop sound like when the battery is low or whatever, and i assume the CLICK is the relay engaging.
it did start after a couple turns of the key, first it did about a quarter turnover, sounded like a huge GRUNT, then stopped. next round it started like normal.
does this sound like the same problem?YES if so, i will do the same procedure outlined by eddie and mustang. if thats the case, where's the best place to disconnect the fuel line from the intake plenum group? Drivers side at the back of the plenum is where the fuel line attaches, its a 22mm wrench
and also it sounds like i disco the t/b from the plenum and leave it in the bay, but remove the plenum/rails/etc...correct?Yes unbolt the TB,but leave the water hoses connected to it. The injector rails can stay bolted on too, just remove the 6 bolts and 4 nuts that hold the manifold down to the heads. There are 2 6mm bolts that hold the wire harness down back by the firewall , they need to come out too. Once all the hoses and stuff are out of the way the manifold assy can be lifted straight out and the starter is below it. MAKE SURE TE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED FIRST.
what sort of sealant/gasket maker stuff goes between the plenum and block, if any? just the factory gasket? Just the factory gasket, no sealer needed.
thanks much
-sean
Hope this helps
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would it help if i pulled the fuel pump fuse, let the engine die, then disconnected the fuel line? so as to reduce pressure in the line when i disconnect that 22mm nut?
i give it a 7
except no turnover just a CLICK. it's not the pop-pop-pop-pop sound like when the battery is low or whatever, and i assume the CLICK is the relay engaging.
Linear Mode
