Starter / Replacement Contacts

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

would it help if i pulled the fuel pump fuse, let the engine die, then disconnected the fuel line? so as to reduce pressure in the line when i disconnect that 22mm nut?

That's a good idea
I just place a rag around it a crack it open slowly. Let the rag absorb the fuel.

[DevinSixtySeven]

carson had a great deal on the parts, i'm going to swap in a complete new starter since this one has 130K on it...i figure it'll last another 130K or so . that way im not spending gaskets*2+starter+4 hours*2 (never done it before) if the solenoid is also going bad. it's been well-loved, held up a long time.

30 dollar core charge, i send back the old starter, they refund the core charge. the 2000 starters are reman'd units now.

-sean

[Kdog]

Any recommendations on Starters? I've found several on-line. Can anyone provide a link. I don't want to pay the "stealer" $450 for a starter.
2001 v8 4wd access cab.

Denso (is this OEM)

Bosch

Thanks!



I'm having the same problem. Dealer wants $913 to fix.

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by Kdog

Any recommendations on Starters? I've found several on-line. Can anyone provide a link. I don't want to pay the "stealer" $450 for a starter.
2001 v8 4wd access cab.

Denso (is this OEM)

Bosch

Thanks!



I'm having the same problem. Dealer wants $913 to fix.

DENSO ONLY!!!!!

Dont put a German starter in a JAPANESE/AMerican truck, you'll be sorry


$913 is a rip off

ALLDATA is what we use for labor rates
It pays 4.0hr labor x ($95 per/hr) = $360 + starter ($ 205 (approx) Toyota reman)= $565 + tax
Find another dealer or do it yourself.

[Kdog]

Thanks for the helpful info!!! Working the "stealer" now on labor price... This forum rocks!!!!!

[DevinSixtySeven]

if you have some hand tools and patience, consider the DIY route.

also, talk to carson toyota (forum sponsor) about a starter. 192 + refundable core charge got me a remanufactured oem high output unit. the gaskets were really cheap, too. even if you dont do it yourself, youll be saving almost 100 bucks getting the parts through carson. tell 'em tundrasolutions sent you.

-sean

[Kdog]

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by Kdog

Any concerns that the starter in my truck is a 1.4 amp and I am replacing it with a factory refurb 2.0 amp unit?

No concern
The 2.0 amp is for COLD REGIONS to give it that extra UMPHH whent he engine is very cold.

It cant hurt in NON COLD REGION. It actually may help, by turning the engine easier.
I say go for it we do it all the time. LV is designated as a Cold Region, so we install Cold Spec starters in whatever vehicle is here and needs it.

[Wellcraft19]

Appreciate all the info in this thread. My 1999 LandCrusier has had the "intermittent" starter issue for a while (over a year...). This past monday, it would just not turn over (truck's in the garage). Most times before, with some patience, it would turn after a little bit of waiting and X more attempts. Not this time...

So today I cleaned all accessible contacts, cleaned (already pristine) battery posts, pulled relays and put them back. Tried, waited, no difference.
Turn the key to "ign", usual "whizz and burr" of the electronics, turn to "start", hear the solenoid click, battery voltage drops to about 11.25V (from fully charged 12.65V), but no cranking. Assuming like many others it is the contacts in the starter (corroded or dirty soleneoid contacts or the brushes in the starter motor, or both). Battery voltage drop seem to indicate that the solenoid is at least actually energized...

But, just before I left the garage to go up for a bite to eat and sleep, I tried again. Starter ran for about two seconds, than back to nothing. Tried a few times more, and upon the fourth or fifth try, engine turned over and started (right away).

But, I am ready to pull the intake manifold, pull the starter, to get this solved once and for all.

As for the location of the starter, it is a PITA when it actually breaks, but it is well protected, sits high up (less issues when fording a creek) and it is in an area that otherwise likely would not be used at all. All in all, not a bad location, but...

If anyone has any final words/advice before I attack this, please post. Thanks to everyone's great advice in this thread up until now.

BTW, anyone that has listed the exact test sequence the ECU goes through when you turn key to "ign"? Would be fun to know what the "whizz and burr" is coming from (I had it pretty well documented in my old Nissan 300 ZXTT).

/// Per-Ola

[DevinSixtySeven]

only the advice ive heard from a few people now, dont separate the upper and lower intake manifold, just take the whole thing off from the lower bolts.

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

only the advice ive heard from a few people now, dont separate the upper and lower intake manifold, just take the whole thing off from the lower bolts.

Exactly . Leave injectors in place too.

[mitey_whitey]

1) did anyone ever post any pics?
2) Does techinfo.toyota.com download of the manual go into the details necessary to finalize this with pics......??

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by mitey_whitey

1) did anyone ever post any pics?
2) Does techinfo.toyota.com download of the manual go into the details necessary to finalize this with pics......??

No pics that i know of.

The TIS techinfo tells you to do alot more steps than necessary, like draining coolant and stuff. You dont need to do 1/2 the stuff it calls for.
It has pics of certain things and the step by step procedure jumps around from area to area, to many links and PDF's to post or I would.

Basically

1. remove battery cable
2. remove TB cover
3. Remove air intake hose and vac lines
4. remove other vac lines attached to intake
5. unplug all injectors and water temp sensor
6. unbolt TB and moveto side (you dont have to drain coolant)
7. remove fuel return line (if equipped)
8. remove fuel line (22mm wrench)
dont lose fuel line washer and make sure they go back on fitting
in the proper order.
9. remove 6- 12mm bolts and 4 nuts from intake manifold to cylinder head
10. unbolt wire harness at rear of both cylinder heads on top (6mm bolt)
11. lift out intake manifold/injector assy
12. remove 12mm bolt on wire harness to starter (at firewall)
13. remove the 2 - 14mm bolts holding the starter in (at firewall)
14. rotate starter and remove exciter wire and remove 12mm nut holding
battery wire to starter.
15. repeat in rev order to install new starter or replace starter contacts in old starter and re-install.

I have a zip file of pictures that will help guide you thru the starter contact replacement.

Hope this helps

[mitey_whitey]

I did not see the zip file........ Keeping my fingers crossed right now...
fiddled with the starter relay yesterday.. I believe the relay is the same as the heater relay.... listened carefully with a stethescope as wife clicked to start and swapped them around..... 1 mis start immediately after but since then.... fire in the hole on every try.

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by mitey_whitey

I did not see the zip file........ Keeping my fingers crossed right now...
fiddled with the starter relay yesterday.. I believe the relay is the same as the heater relay.... listened carefully with a stethescope as wife clicked to start and swapped them around..... 1 mis start immediately after but since then.... fire in the hole on every try.

I hope the relay works for you. Been down that road before . I changed a starter relay, Vehicle came back a month later and customer was pissed, she had to take more time off of work to leave vehicle for starter replacement. Wont do that again.