Starter / Replacement Contacts

[mustang67408]

does this help

[Wellcraft19]

Mustang,

Thanks for the pics. Wow, mine looks almost pristine compared to that one (but the contacts are really worn and dusty). Will take some more pictures tomorrow and post a "gallery".
Think you convinced me to only replace the contacts.

Mitey_Whitey, how did you do?

[Wellcraft19]

A few pictures and comments after taking out and fixing starter. To put in truck later today. More in next post:

[Wellcraft19]

When removing starter, careful not to break the snorkels (I broke the mount for one of them). According to dealer, part only available from Japan...

When installing new contacts, make sure they are LEVEL so you'll get the largest possible contact area towards the plunger. It is easy when you tighten the nuts holding the new contacts (as well as when attaching external lugs) to overtighten so you end up with slightly "slanted" contacts.
Check before you put the lid on so you know how much you can/should "wiggle" assembly back in order for it to be "level", and hence provide for largest possible/best contact area .

As you can see from pictures, new contact on one side is slightly narrower than original (this being on a 2kW starter).

Bench test starter before you put it all together. Needless to say, make sure it is properly mounted in vise or other device.

[DevinSixtySeven]

pulling everything apart now.

99-02 throttle body gasket is about 22 bucks "retail" from the dealership, undoubtedly cheaper from carson. the design is updated from the two-hole 00 design i have, but it's specd for the same model years. two of the three holes are the same so it shouldnt matter.

i wound up getting a new one because the rubber does "clamp" over time, and in my case it looked like it may have allowed a small vacuum leak and possibly crud entering the engine--there was a bit of fluid (i assume condensed oil vapor from the connection to the head on top of the t/b) that seemed to be passing across the gasket.

another observation...i havent cleaned the t/b in at least 30-40K, normally it's every other oil change (10k) or every change (5k) if you're anal. while there was gunk in the t/b, it was minimal, and mainly behind the butterfly--very, very little in front of the plate. i am running a true flow filter, and previously a k&n...with the k&n, i would find a filthy throttle body at 10k, and the sort of dirt i found this time at 30k with the true flow would be about how the t/b would look at 5k with the k&n.

more later, off to pick up the gasket...good thing they had one in stock ...and a 22mm wrench.

-sean

[Wellcraft19]

I'm done with my work and LC started on first attempt. Running as it always have...

A few observations/comments after having done this job over the past week (no, I was not in a rush, worked when I felt like it).

Thanks to the wisdom here and on other lists, this was a fairly simple job, even though the left starter bolt was a bit hard to get to.

Only tools needed:
Ratchet handles: 1/4", 3/8"
Sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
Short and long extension 3/8"
Fixed wrenches: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
A long flexible (snakelike) rod with a strong magnet at the end
A few screw drivers, pliers, etc

There are four hoses that connect to the airbox, not three as some has mentioned (at least for the LC100).

I stuffed a pillow into the airfilter box and it made for a fairly comfortable "seat" while in the engine bay.

Instead of removing the fuel line from the fuel rail (22 mm wrench), I disconnected at the fuel filter and easily snaked the line out (note to those who do disconnect the fuel line from the rail; NEVER re-use the copper washers, buy new ones).

Once intake manifold was on workbench, I did take it apart to clean it out. turns out there was a fair amount of engine oil "pooled" up in enclosed chambers. Also cleaned the intake runners to get all and any crud out of there.
Did buy a new gasket ($16) for between the two halves of the intake manifold (likely not needed, but did no want to open it up w/o one).

The pooling of oil is likely due to overfill during oil change (all too common dealers and other put in too much oil, just to be "safe").

Did reuse the gaskets between head and intake manifold. Clean these out and make sure there is no dirt hidden between the metal sheet and the plastic "filler". These gaskets can be put back the wrong way, but when you see the "angle of attack" of the holes, it is very evident how they go back on.

Did take a few pictures from behind flywheel to get a better feel for how it will look when you start feeeling around with hands. It helped a lot, since the left starter bolt is PITA to get to - but not impossible with the correct combo of tools (3/8 ratchet, 14 mm socket, short extension)

Careful when removing the starter so you do not damage the "snorkels". I did break (at least I think I did...) the plastic mount for one, with the result of it fitting way too loosely back on. Sealed up with silicone gasket sealer and it seem to hold up well. Luckily (?) it was the rearmost snorkel and that one can be inspected from above and actually be reached from behind with intake manifold and everything on, should it fall off and a new one be needed.

Putting the entire intake manifold back on is a bit tricky. At first, it seem not to be enough room between it and the vertical coolant pipe coming up from the left cylinder bank. It is tight, but eventually just slips in.
Make sure you have removed ALL electrical connectors (injectors and sensors) before you, or you might risk crushing/damaging them in the process.

Next time this job is to be done, it'll take shorter time but car will also see a new starter since the contacts on the "plunger" will burn out before the newly installed "exterior" ones.

A few new photos (added 12/01/06)

[tjlafleur]

Originally Posted by PagalDesi4Life

I might have a similar problem. On a level of 1-10 (10 being the most difficult), what would you grade this whole "operation" for someone who has a good amount of knowledge in mechanics?

As I'm preparing to tackle the same project on Monday, I'll let you know how it goes for me - for now, my own mechanic told me it shouldn't be too difficult - just time consuming...otherwise, I'm looking forward to tackling the installation of my "boosted Tundra" supercharger in the spring.

[DevinSixtySeven]

getting the intake manifold off is actually pretty easy...just takes some time, and two people makes it easier. it looks at first lift like it'll interfere with the engine hoist hooks...it doesnt...just turn and wiggle, it comes right out.

now for the @!#$ part...

i removed two 14mm bolts from the firewall side of the block, that hold the starter to the block. also pulled the 12mm bolt holding the plastic box w/wires to the back of the starter.

i can "pop" the starter down a degree or so, but i can't rotate or otherwise dislodge it. is there a trick to this? how does this bloody thing come out?

also, what the guys said about being careful with the nuts on the ends of the intake manifold...as i was removing them, the socket didnt release the nut when i pulled up, it grabbed it for a moment...then dropped it...and now its...somewhere . probably sitting on top of the tranny or something, i will look once i get the @#!$ starter out.

the arb bumper sorta makes it easier...with the chrome hoop removed, it makes a good spot to kneel.

i also noticed i dont seem to have the connection to the driver side of the channel in the block...i see the hole, but theres no wire like shown in the fsm or in the pictures from the 'cruiser engine/starter. otherwise it looks the same. what's going on here?

more later...!@#$ starter...

-sean

*edit* here is a photo

[DevinSixtySeven]

never mind, got it out.

now why the hell would i have to use a crowbar to get the starter out? it's like it was jammed in the hole or something.

Here's what the whole mess looked like. The channel in the block looks like garbage, so do the exposed raw areas on the starter body (very few which can corrode there, fortunately). What seemed strange were the two holes molded in to the block which appear to be drainage for the channel. They look like they drain in to the flywheel (?) area. WTF? The flywheel (?) and starter gear are pretty rusty on the surface.

This is a picture of my "SST". For something that's supposed to be nuts 'n' bolts and a few press items, I find a crowbar unfortunately has a place in the toolbox. I could dislodge the starter by hand but needed the extra leverage to move it back away from the block and gear...it would not rotate as mentioned in the FSM and other instructions here. Anyone know why not? Also, the drain holes are easier to see in this pic.

That plastic wire guard is a pain in the as5. On my truck, there's a round section with an obnoxious flat clip that I had to pry open with a screwdriver--it's not a clip like the injectors or spark plug wiring. The round section is at the forward end. Once the round cover is off and out the way (I pried it all the way backwards), the open end of a 12mm wrench barely fits in there to loosen the nut. Once it's off, again with the prying to get the plastic junk away from the stud on the starter. !@#$ tupperware.

OK, off to install the new one...should be a lot easier than taking it all apart, I hope...first task is to find that nut! Hopefully it didn't fall down the drain holes ...

-Sean

*edit* The nut was lodged in between the headers, down near the collector . Never would've found it just by looking.

[Wellcraft19]

Will add to my tools list (forgot) as essential:

A long flexible (snakelike) rod with a strong magnet at the end. Helped me immensly putting the bolts back in place w/o having them fall down. Think it was about $4 at Northen Hydraulic Supply in Dallas years ago.

Sean,
No idea why your starter did not come right out, but I guess that when you angled it upwards to pull it, the cog wheel likely got stuck in the tooth on the flywheel and the more you pulled, the further out you pulled the cog wheel. You just had bad luck with the angle, mine came right out.

If you are using a small (1/4") 12 mm socket and ratchet, you can easily tighten the nut inside the "tupperware" cover. Or, if you feel it is really tight, remove the wires that go to the knock sensors.

Even though the engie is essentially the same, it looks like there is a bit more room under the Tundra hood compared to the LandCruiser.

As for the channel (or "pool") between the cylinder banks, yours looked much worse than mine. I think it is semi essential to ensure that the drainage holes are kept open, and if you ever take another mudbath (rather, next time...) with the Tundra, flush out the area with clean water afterwards. Otherwise you'll get a lot of corrosion on the exposed cast iron, and worse, potentially some of the "crud" could find its way into the starter. Should not be a problem as long as the area drains OK though (and snorkels are intact...).

[DevinSixtySeven]

Actually I strongly suspect it was living four years in the rust belt. On closer inspection, it wasn't the gears interfering at all...there was a ring of corrosion all the way around the mating surface between the starter and the block, not on the face but around the starter gear. I don't think any amount of cleaning would have prevented it, only living in a rust-free environment. Another four years and it might not have come out at all. I'll get a picture in a minute.

Just more de-ohio-fying of my truck ...I am never living in the rust belt again, and if I do, I'm buying a POS car to drive during the winter.

I've noticed a lot of these nuts and bolts don't seem to have a very high iron content. No rust either, on the nuts/bolts associated with the heads, manifold or starter. Some work with a magnetic finger, some don't.

-Sean

[Wellcraft19]

Interesting you mention the nuts/bolts. My first impression was that these were alloy bolts (they are really lightweight) and hence prone to stripping. But when testing them with the magnet, I just thought I had dreamt it up. Turns out more noticed it.

The mating surfaces in mine looked good. No "extra" rust on the block side.

As for the rust belt, I agree. Winters are supposed to be winters (no salt needed) and summers, just that, summers.

Cannot remember the VIN history, but I think mine has spent all its years on the West Coast (cars do not rust here, compared to native Sweden).

/// Per-Ola

[DevinSixtySeven]

yeah...iirc the nuts weren't magnetic, but the bolts were. i actually used the "magic finger" to place the bolts...it was easier than messing with tape or o-rings.

putting it all back together was actually a piece of cake. a 22mm crows foot and a 3/8" drive torque wrench work great for the fuel pulse damper nut. there wasnt a torque spec in the sfi, brake or starter sections of the fsm for the brake vacuum boost line at the back p-side of the intake manifold, so i used the spec for the fuel pulse damper minus a few pounds.

one person can move the manifold assembly around...at one point i was kneeling/standing with one foot on the block and one knee on the forward sheetmetal/radiator, pretty easy to wiggle the manifold back in place. it was actually harder with two people, getting it out.

i never had fuel spray, probably because it sat so long without being run...about three weeks...but normally to reduce fuel spray you can pull the fuel pump connection over the fuel tank. i actually did this when i changed the fuel filter but forgot...it's actually listed in the fsm. probably an easier way to cut the power, but anyway cut power to the fuel pump, let the engine die on its own, then break open the fuel line.

overall it seems like a time consuming, awkward task, but not difficult unless your starter is rusted in place, and then a few well-placed pokes with a crowbar will get the starter out.

truck runs great now, with the exception of having to recharge the dead battery...glad its an optima.

-sean

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

putting it all back together was actually a piece of cake. a 22mm crows foot and a 3/8" drive torque wrench work great for the fuel pulse damper nut. there wasnt a torque spec in the sfi, .

Here's the torque spec for ya, for the pulsation damper.

[DevinSixtySeven]

that's the torque spec i found and used for the vacuum connection ...it's the vacuum connector line bolt i couldn't find anywhere. kinda odd, since you have to pull it to get the manifold out.