that's the torque spec i found and used for the vacuum connection ...it's the vacuum connector line bolt i couldn't find anywhere. kinda odd, since you have to pull it to get the manifold out.
Here is the pressure regulator torque spec, for the 2 6mm bolts.
But you dont have to remove it or any fuel rails or injectors , only the 22mm for the fuel damper on the drivers side, where the fuel line connects.
As long as you got it changed
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
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Here is the pressure regulator torque spec, for the 2 6mm bolts.
But you dont have to remove it or any fuel rails or injectors , only the 22mm for the fuel damper on the drivers side, where the fuel line connects.
As long as you got it changed
not that one either lol...the ring connector on the rear passenger side of the manifold, that links via air hose to the master cylinder. it was a 14mm gun and crossdrilled bolt.
not that one either lol...the ring connector on the rear passenger side of the manifold, that links via air hose to the master cylinder. it was a 14mm gun and crossdrilled bolt.
gotta a pic of it I have no idea what your talking about.
NEVERMIND
I got it
The tube for the brake booster. ( no need to remove) LOL
There is no torque spec listed. "SNUG" would be good just like you did.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
25 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
If you get a single click the problem is with the contact between the solinoid and the starter.
If you get multiple rapid clicks the problem is battery or dirty terminals.
I have a 2002 Tundra 2WD access cab with only 36K miles. I am the 1st owner.
I started having problems with starting the vehicle about a year ago. It would click and not start and then eventually start after 2nd or 3rd try.
I went to the dealer and they said $800 to replace the starter with a toyota remanufactured starter. I called the Toyota Customer Experience Center in California (1-800-331-4331) to complain about the reliability of their Nippon Denso starter. They said no recalls or tech bulletins. I said BS.
The next day I get a call from the customer service mgr of the dealer I had visited. They said that the regional sales manager of Gulf States Toyota (Toyota distributor for 6 or so states) had agreed to cover 50% of the repair.
I got it fixed at the dealer 2 weeks ago and paid $275 for starter replacement. I had some coupons. I have 38.5K miles and starts like brand new truck.
I have a 2002 Tundra 2WD V8 access cab with only 36K miles. I am the 1st owner.
I started having problems with starting the vehicle about a year ago. It would click and not start and then eventually start after 2nd or 3rd try.
I went to the dealer and they said $800 to replace the starter with a toyota remanufactured starter. I called the Toyota Customer Experience Center in California (1-800-331-4331) to complain about the reliability of their Nippon Denso starter. They said no recalls or tech bulletins. I said BS.
The next day I get a call from the customer service mgr of the dealer I had visited. They said that the regional sales manager of Gulf States Toyota (Toyota distributor for 6 or so states) had agreed to cover 50% of the repair.
I got it fixed at the dealer 2 weeks ago and paid $275 for starter replacement. I had some coupons. I have 38.5K miles and starts like brand new truck.
Regards.
Last edited by Tundra2002-2WD; 12-20-2008 at 03:35 PM.
I suspect the dealership may be pulling the wool over your eyes. I don't think it was the starter... there is a likelihood that the problem was corroded battery terminals.
The regional manager story sounds highly suspicious. Like maybe they decided to settle for 1/2 the booty rather than you go elsewhere to find out the problem could be solved with a 5 minute terminal cleaning.
__________________
Imagination is more vivid than reality.
The $10 copper contacts inside the starter SOLENOID wear out, but the Denso starter itself typically will last decades / hundreds of thousands of miles.
True Kathy... the copper contacts do wear out in starters that have very high mileage... like maybe 210,000 miles. But the above starter only had like 33,000 miles on it. That starter is practically new. But 33.000 miles is enough to build up a considerable residue on the battery terminals... especially the positive terminal.
Terminals can build up a thin crust that looks just like dull lead... and electricity cannot pass through this crust. It must be cleaned off the terminal with a wire brush... same with the inside of the cable connector.
__________________
Imagination is more vivid than reality.
Yes it does not sound quite right. There are other things... like a loose nut on the end of a cable, poor body ground for the negative cable.
Where does the nut for the starter end of the positive cable connect to the solenoid? Is it outside the manifold and behind the engine near the firewall? If so it may be readily accessible to be loosened or re-tightened yet out of sight from an unsuspecting observer.
__________________
Imagination is more vivid than reality.
I love this site. About 3 months ago I started having the problem and after checking the battery, cleaning the terminals, replacing all wire ends at the battery, replacing about 6" of the wire leading the starter at the battery end, replacing the starter relay I had to bite the bullet and replace the starter. I got the diagram from here and was able to get the parts from NAPA.
I did not have to open the coolant system. THere were no coolant lines to my intake manifold but the crossover tube and the wiring harness made getting to the starter bolts extremely difficult. 10 torn knuckles later I had the new starter bolted in. Unfortunatly, I unknowingly broke a wire to one of the knock sensors and did not realizethis until the entire engine was back together. 3 hours later, all was fixed and back together and no more click,click,click vroom.
I have a 2000 V8 sr5 with 87k miles. My biggest problem has been brakes and vibrations. I also have the mandatory exhaust leak that makes it sound like an old chevy.
Why do some 2000 Tundra starters go for 200,000 miles or more while others only go for 38,000 miles before they develop the same problem (Worn copper contacts)?
My guess is that it has to do with where the trucks were assembled. Maybe different suppliers provided parts of unequal durability or strength. It could be because of variations of the alloy used for the copper contacts (hardness) or it could be the strength of the magnetic field that drives the solenoid's piston up against the copper contacts. Too strong of an electric field would cause the solenoid's piston to hit the copper contacts harder thus wearing them out sooner.
We should do a survey among 2000 Tundra owners and ask where their vehicles were manufactured. If we could prove that the failed starters all have parts from a unique supplier, then we would have a legitimate claim against the manufacturer of our trucks. Manufacturing location is coded within the VIN number of our trucks. (serial number).
Anybody game for the survey?
__________________
Imagination is more vivid than reality.
There were 2 different starters available if I'm not mistaken. Mine started the clickin' and after a month of doing nothing, it magically stopped. My dad's '02 wasn't so lucky, at 38k his didn't return to life. So, after looking at several Denso on-line parts places I found HD and standard solenoid contacts. I was told either ones will fit either starter...as long as it was a factory denso. I keep the contacts with me, along with the manifold gaskets should I get stuck on the road. Evenually, I'm sure I'll be replacing them. Dad opted for a new starter at $750 total price...I'll be in it for ~$80.00.
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'01 tundra TRD SR5 4x4 access cab, rear Helwig sway bar, front poly end-links, temp/compass mirror, '05 tail lights, JL audio stealthbox and amp, 6x9 Sony rear spkrs, TO-25 door tweeters, new '03 TRD coilovers w/daytech 3/4" poly spacer, rear HD-Bilsteins, all weather mats, rear seat mod, Draw-Tite bugshield. Soon to install: TRD lim-slip