I'm with you derone. I ordered and now have the gasket and contact set here and ready to go. Contact taped to gasket package so as not to get separated.
I only wish there was a way to store them in the cab. I could not find an appropriate storage space in truck so my clothes closet had to do for now. Will take package along on any extended trips.
Boy Scout motto: "Be Prepared"
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Imagination is more vivid than reality.
I'm almost embarassed to post this but I have to because I just feel so violated. I took my '02 2WD TRD to the dealer to get the starter replaced, because after reading on how tedious it was to do yourself esp. with limited knowledge/toolset and no place to disassemble the engine (I live in an apartment) I thought ok I know it's going to cost but,
1. I had the starter replaced 2 years ago so it shouldn't be that
2. If it is the starter it should be covered by a warranty or something
Long story short, I paid through the nose for that thinking, $950 to replace with a reman starter ($375) ($440) labor with the balance being gaskets, fluids, and taxes. The worst part was when I told the rep that it wasn't right that i have 2 starter failures in 3 years. His f(&*^n response was "well the're only built by humans" I couldn't believe it and now I'm fuming but I did choose to take it to the STEALER.... never again....
Just order the contacts and gaskets at Toyota today and will be installing them myself. Thanks to all those that have posted instructions and tips I feel it will be a interesting project. My truck has been doing the clicking thing for about a year now and yeastarday was the last; just kept clicking, and i had to ride my bike all the way to work. Well after 9yrs and the only thing that has to be rplaced other than the timing belt, I'd say I'm very pleased. I'll let you all know how it goes.
Just pulled the contacts out and is clear why they wore out. One of them was not installed 'flat'. It was at an angle and had worn really badly. This is from the factory...the original install. It also wore the plunger ring contact down badly as well. So now it is back to the order desk to order the plunger.
Just FYI I am not happy with Toyota of Berkeley, in Berkeley CA. First they quoted me $306 for the starter and $225 for labor. When I took it in they said oh no, it will be at least $900 total. So I decided to do it myself.
When I ordered the contacts it took them two days to get them. When I picked them up they were the brushes not the contacts. So ordered again. Another two days. Now at least I have the right contacts!
My starter began acting up at about 185K mi. But it didn't last long. After failing to start only a few times, I was forced to replace it. Now at 188K mi. I replaced the complete starter.
My reasoning:
1.- All the excellent advise in this forum helped do the job quickly and easily.
2.- After opening my starter, the contacts did not look that bad (in comparison to some of the pictures I've seen on this forum). So I suspected it could have been a combination of things.
3.- The dealer is REALLY far from my house. So I opted for an aftermarket unit. (Inspection of the seals made me decide not to replace them, so that saved me the trip to the stealer).
4.- Remanufactured Denso starter with a lifetime warranty.
Truck starts beautifully now. Hope being cheap/lazy doesn't come back to bite me in the @ss. But as I mentioned earlier, the job is not bad if you read this thread, so If I have to do it again. I'm ok with that.
Thanks to all the guys who provided valuable information, pictures and advise.
V8-2wd 2001 Tundra 84k-miles... and have what I believe is a starter problem. Symptoms are solenoid clicking with each turned key and then finally a startup after 4-5 tries. I've checked the battery and have cleaned all battery terminals.
I've searched through all the other threads, and it looks like most people have narrowed this down to the starter contacts. I want to go to the dealer and ask for these contacts, but I don't really know what I should be asking for. Is it the contact internally between the solenoid and the starter? In other words, would I need to take apart the starter and replace these contacts? If so, how many are there?
Or is it the battery contact on the outside of the starter? It seems that if the solenoid is clicking then this contact would be okay? I'm just guessing...
Also, from reading the other threads it seems you have to take off the air intake manifold. I'm assuming this is just the air-filter and surrounding box? Or it is a lot more involved than this?
Any help is much appreciated. I'm getting tired of playing starter-roulette every morning before going to work...
I had the same problem and cured it by changing out the "Starter Relay", it is located behind the battery in the Fuse and Relay box, price is approximately $28.00, much cheaper and easier than the starter, I hope this helps you.]
Last edited by Raiderfan0; 06-30-2009 at 07:11 PM.
After reading nearly every post in this thread, I've not come across any supercharged tundras with this starter contact issue. Can anyone at a dealership estimate this job for me?
TRD SUPERCHARGED 2000 LTD from the cooler climes of northern Canada.
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Unichip'd TRD Supercharger & 5.9 Overboost Crank Pulley,TRD Boost guage and Oak color matched pod,TRD LSD,Valvebody Upgrade by IPT in NY, JBA headers,Y pipe, K&N(Evol) SS catback exhaust, Helwig Rear antisway bar, Rear custom Leafpack,TRD Coils,Cornfed Spacers's with Y/B Bilsteins,Westin Outdoorsman Bushbar and Nerf Tubes, TRD Ivan Stewart 16X8 Rims and 285/75/R16 Revo AT tires.Pioneer 5500 MP3 Head unit/Q-Logic sub enclosure with dual crossfire subs/ 700 watts of Crossfire Amps/Bazooka 6.5's and 5.25's in Kickpanels/ CodeAlarm Remote starter/antitheft system.
There should be no difference, you have to remove the intake manifold and the S/C stays attached to it, you dont have to remove it. The labor should be the same.
We get 4.5 hrs labor (ALL DATA TIME) + either a starter or the contacts, the decision is up to the customer.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
25 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
My truck has been having a delayed start for the past 6 months or so. I turn the key and there is about a 1 second delay and then the starter kicks in. Well, it is starting to get a little cold here and the past two mornings it has taken me about 45 minutes to get this beast started (2000 Tundra AC 4x4 V8 135k miles). I turn the key and I hear the click, which I believe to be the relay. After about 50 trys it starts up. I am thinking that it is temperature related (in addition to being well worn). Perhaped the contacts have contracted like frightened turtles due to the cold? I cleaned the battery posts firstly, but that did not help the situation at all. So, tonight, I will pick up new contacts from the stealership and give the whole thing a go. I am planning on reusing the gaskets as I recall Mustang mentioning that is what he would do and he seems to be quite the expert. I will let you know how it turns out!
Well, I got it all apart tonight and got the starter out. At the stealership, they sold me generic copper contacts that they had in stock (the others were another day out). I paid $20...figuring it would save me 1 day. Well, I just pulled the old contacts out and they do not match. The ones I have will not fit, so I have to do the whole thing over again. Stoked. Another thing: does anyone have pics of their old contacts that were causing the problem? Mine do not look too far gone. The copper on the armature was not too bad either. I am starting to question my diagnosis...
Those contacts are junk, they need to be shiny cooper looking. You diag sounds spot on.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
25 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF