Starter / Replacement Contacts

[tamu_tundra]

Need some help...

V8-2wd 2001 Tundra 84k-miles... and have what I believe is a starter problem. Symptoms are solenoid clicking with each turned key and then finally a startup after 4-5 tries. I've checked the battery and have cleaned all battery terminals.

I've searched through all the other threads, and it looks like most people have narrowed this down to the starter contacts. I want to go to the dealer and ask for these contacts, but I don't really know what I should be asking for. Is it the contact internally between the solenoid and the starter? In other words, would I need to take apart the starter and replace these contacts? If so, how many are there?

Or is it the battery contact on the outside of the starter? It seems that if the solenoid is clicking then this contact would be okay? I'm just guessing...

Also, from reading the other threads it seems you have to take off the air intake manifold. I'm assuming this is just the air-filter and surrounding box? Or it is a lot more involved than this?

Any help is much appreciated. I'm getting tired of playing starter-roulette every morning before going to work...

[mustang67408]

Need some help...

V8-2wd 2001 Tundra 84k-miles... and have what I believe is a starter problem. Symptoms are solenoid clicking with each turned key and then finally a startup after 4-5 tries. I've checked the battery and have cleaned all battery terminals.Sounds like the starter
I've searched through all the other threads, and it looks like most people have narrowed this down to the starter contacts. I want to go to the dealer and ask for these contacts, but I don't really know what I should be asking for. Is it the contact internally between the solenoid and the starter? YES In other words, would I need to take apart the starter and replace these contacts?YES If so, how many are there?2 of them, and you have to clean the armature for the windings.
Or is it the battery contact on the outside of the starter? NOT likely It seems that if the solenoid is clicking then this contact would be okay? I'm just guessing...Nope it is an internal starter contact failure.
Also, from reading the other threads it seems you have to take off the air intake manifold. I'm assuming this is just the air-filter and surrounding box? Or it is a lot more involved than this? It is the Air filter/a/f hose/ intake manifold, along with the injectors and rails, fuel line, return line, emmision hoses. it can be done as a unit with 2 people. It is quite heavy to lift out of the truck.I would also suggest replacing the intake manifold gaskets while your in there.
Any help is much appreciated. I'm getting tired of playing starter-roulette every morning before going to work...

Hope this helps

[Eddie]

I've done several Lexus LX470 starter replacements. They use the same engine so the following tips can be applied:

Like Victor said,most of the parts can be removed as a single unit. The throttle body,fuel injectors/rails,and upper plenum stay together. All you need to unbolt are the lower manifold nuts (ones that go into the head).

When removing the intake manifold nuts,shove some kind of sticky stuff in the socket (I use butyl rubber sealer). You do not want to drop those nuts when reinstalling them.

Be prepared to spill coolant,there are coolant lines going into the throttle body that have to be disconnected. Clamping the hoses with needlenose visegrips help reduce the mess.

Open the gas cap to relieve some fuel pressure. Have rags handy when loosening up the fuel connections at the rails. Smoking during this stage of the job is a bad idea

Ratcheting box-end wrenches make removal of the actual starter bolts easier. 14mm size.

You will probably have to sit/lie in the engine bay to get most of this work done. Have something comfy to sit on,you'll be there for a while.

[mustang67408]

I've done several Lexus LX470 starter replacements. They use the same engine so the following tips can be applied:

Like Victor said,most of the parts can be removed as a single unit. The throttle body,fuel injectors/rails,and upper plenum stay together. All you need to unbolt are the lower manifold nuts (ones that go into the head).

When removing the intake manifold nuts,shove some kind of sticky stuff in the socket (I use butyl rubber sealer). You do not want to drop those nuts when reinstalling them.

Be prepared to spill coolant,there are coolant lines going into the throttle body that have to be disconnected. Clamping the hoses with needlenose visegrips help reduce the mess. You dont have to remove these lines , just lay the throttlebody off to the side, once you remove the 4 nuts.
Open the gas cap to relieve some fuel pressure. Have rags handy when loosening up the fuel connections at the rails. Smoking during this stage of the job is a bad idea

Ratcheting box-end wrenches make removal of the actual starter bolts easier. 14mm size.

You will probably have to sit/lie in the engine bay to get most of this work done. Have something comfy to sit on,you'll be there for a while.

Excellent advise

[tamu_tundra]

Thanks Eddie and Victor- definitely helps get me prepared for this. I've replaced a starter on Chevy before, but it was nothing like this!

Victor, you mention to clean the armature for the windings. What do you typically use and do to clean them? Any trick to opening up the starter?

-Kent

[Eddie]

You dont have to remove these lines , just lay the throttlebody off to the side, once you remove the 4 nuts.

Damn,now you tell me Next LX470 I'll do that.

[mustang67408]

Once the starter is out, you only have to remove the rear plate. 3 - 8mm bolts. The contacts unbolt with a 12mm wrench. Do 1 side at a time.
The armature winding you will have to remove to get to the contacts, has a ring on it, it will be black and burnt looking. Just use some fine sanding paper to scuff it nice and shiny again, go easy on it and dont take off to much copper, just enough to get it clean not spotless.
Let us know how it turns out
Eddie and i will keep our ears open.
Good luck

[tamu_tundra]

Parts are coming in on Thurs (btw, $8 each for the 2 contacts and then ~$30 each for the 2 gaskets), so I probably won't get a chance to tackle this until Sat.

I'll keep yall (yes, I'm Texan!) posted... thanks again.

[tamu_tundra]

Just wanted to thank yall again for the help. Everything went smoothly and replacing the contacts seemed to solve the problem.

I still can't believe the starter was actually under there...

[mustang67408]

Have a cold 1 (or 2 ) for us.
WHOOOOOO AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

[Verndog]

Just wanted to thank yall again for the help. Everything went smoothly and replacing the contacts seemed to solve the problem.

I still can't believe the starter was actually under there...

My hat is off to you! Good job...and you have a heck of a lot more patients then I...I would have footed the $900.00 bill and saved the cuss words for the California drivers.

Kevin

[leadsled]

My Tundra may have the same problem, however, when I hit the key...there is no "click" noise....just silence. When I let off and try again it fires right up.

As of today, it seems to be working fine. I hate these intermittent problems. They are sometimes difficult to pin down.

Could you please post the part numbers on the invoice, so when I go into the dealership I have some idea what to tell the parts guy. I will also have some way of checking the part numbers before the order is placed.

Thanks.

leadsled

[tamu_tundra]

No problem:

Intake Manifold Gaskets (PN 1717150020)
QTY-2 @ $30 each (both sides identical)

Solenoid Contacts (PNs 2822650070 & 2822650080)
QTY-2 @ $8.43 each (different kit for each side)

There are two sizes of alternators used in the V8s (1.4kW & 2.0kW), but I believe the starter contacts are the same for both.

Also, there is another gasket you come across when you remove the solenoid end cover. I didn't bother replacing this as looked pretty good and seemed to just serve as a debris barrier.

I'm by no means an expert, but just to make sure things are clear... My starter was only clicking once (the solenoid hitting the armature contact)- not clicking repeatedly (like when you have a low battery).

If it's not making any noise, then maybe power just isn't getting to your solenoid? You've probably done this already, but it might be worth while to make sure you have a good connection at your battery...

Let me know if you need anything else...

[akauth]

I was having the same issue. I replace the starter with a new one. Same issue after a while. Finally, this summer I replaced the starter relay in the fusebox and it happened one more time and that's been it for the problem for me.

Usually it would happen about once a month or so. Seems to be gone for me. Hasn't happened in a while.

Alan

My Tundra may have the same problem, however, when I hit the key...there is no "click" noise....just silence. When I let off and try again it fires right up.

As of today, it seems to be working fine. I hate these intermittent problems. They are sometimes difficult to pin down.

Could you please post the part numbers on the invoice, so when I go into the dealership I have some idea what to tell the parts guy. I will also have some way of checking the part numbers before the order is placed.

Thanks.

leadsled

[PagalDesi4Life]

I might have a similar problem. On a level of 1-10 (10 being the most difficult), what would you grade this whole "operation" for someone who has a good amount of knowledge in mechanics?