Transmission Fluid Change - Basic Questions

[MrDynamic]

Unless I missed it, there's nothing in the owner's manual about checking this on an '05. Anyone?

[tuesdayd]

Originally Posted by MrDynamic

Unless I missed it, there's nothing in the owner's manual about checking this on an '05. Anyone?

Looks like there isn't...
But I found a couple of threads that might help you out.

Checking Transmission Fluid 05 Tundra

2005 Tundra 5 speed Auto-no dipstick?

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by MrDynamic

Unless I missed it, there's nothing in the owner's manual about checking this on an '05. Anyone?

That's because Toyota has basically made checking the transmission fluid level on '05 Tundras a task that's really best done by a certified technician who has access to both the tech manuals and a lift. There is no dipstick and the transmission fluid must be in a very specific & narrow temperature range before its level can be checked via the fill hole on the side of the transmission. Doing so requires following a series of steps to warm the fluid and verifiying the fluid's temperature...and then lifting the truck without delay so that the temperature does not change before the fluid level is checked at the fill hole. Not at all a task that can be easily done by an owner in the driveway.

If you upgrade to paid membership, you can find the speciifc steps you must follow so that the AT Overtemp light will give you the correct feedback about the fluid temperature.

[KLS]

Originally Posted by MrDynamic

Unless I missed it, there's nothing in the owner's manual about checking this on an '05. Anyone?

If you don't have a red, oily puddle where you park, the fluid is likely inside the transmission. Even if it was being flung out while driving, it would drip off the underside of your truck when you park.


Ken

[007webgod]

My 2002 V8 Tundra is overdo for a transmission fluid change but I have some basic questions to make sure I get it right. I'm currently at 25,000 miles with the original ATF.

1) What type of ATF should I use? The owners manual states, "Toyota Genuine ATF D-II or DEXRON III (DEXRON II)." Is there a particular brand you would recommend? I've always been a Valvoline guy when it comes to oil. I wasn't planning on buying "genuine Toyota". Is Synthetic that much better than the regular stuff? I read somwhere on here that there is a "new type" of transmission fluid out there?

2) How often do you change the fluid? The dealer maintenance schedule recommends a drain and fill every 15,000 miles.

3) How often do you do a transmission flush? The dealer maintenance schedule recommends every 30,000 miles for $165.95. Is this really necessary and can the average Joe do this at home or what?

4) Is there any type of filter that needs to be changed at some point?


5) I guess measuring the amount that drains out would be the best way to know how much to put back in? The owners manual states only 2 quarts are needed.

6) The correct way to check the ATF level is with the truck warmed up, idling, and parked on flat ground, correct?

If it matters I live in the high desert of CA where temps range from 20F during the morning winters to 110F during the summer afternoons. I don't do any towing or hauling and most of my driving is local stop n go with the kids.

I realize these questions are pretty basic and/or subjective but, again, I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly. Thanks!

Ron

[mitchr]

Originally Posted by 007webgod

My 2002 V8 Tundra is overdo for a transmission fluid change but I have some basic questions to make sure I get it right. I'm currently at 25,000 miles with the original ATF.

1) What type of ATF should I use? The owners manual states, "Toyota Genuine ATF D-II or DEXRON III (DEXRON II)." Is there a particular brand you would recommend? I've always been a Valvoline guy when it comes to oil. I wasn't planning on buying "genuine Toyota". Is Synthetic that much better than the regular stuff? I read somwhere on here that there is a "new type" of transmission fluid out there?

2) How often do you change the fluid? The dealer maintenance schedule recommends a drain and fill every 15,000 miles.

3) How often do you do a transmission flush? The dealer maintenance schedule recommends every 30,000 miles for $165.95. Is this really necessary and can the average Joe do this at home or what?

4) Is there any type of filter that needs to be changed at some point?


5) I guess measuring the amount that drains out would be the best way to know how much to put back in? The owners manual states only 2 quarts are needed.

6) The correct way to check the ATF level is with the truck warmed up, idling, and parked on flat ground, correct?

If it matters I live in the high desert of CA where temps range from 20F during the morning winters to 110F during the summer afternoons. I don't do any towing or hauling and most of my driving is local stop n go with the kids.

I realize these questions are pretty basic and/or subjective but, again, I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly. Thanks!

Ron

My Tundra calls for the Dexron III also and I used Valvoline synthetic when I did the drain and refill(s). The owners manual is wrong about the 2 quarts(not sure why). I would measure how much comes out and put that much back in. Mine held almost 4 quarts. The correct way to check it is with the engine running and E-brake on then shift through all of your gears and back to park. Then check the fluid with the engine still running and at operating temperature. My level does not change much on the dip stick whether the truck is hot or cold. If you decided you wanted to change or clean the screen(filter) you will have to drop the tranny pan to do so. The "filter" is only a screen which can be cleaned or replaced. If you drop the pan you will loose more fluid since the way the pan is lipped around the drain plug. I have changed mine three times and I plan on dropping the pan the next time to clean the filter and to clean off the magnets that are in the bottom of the pan. Some people have talked about putting larger magnet in their pan. My truck has 51,000 mile on it and I am not sure when or if I will ever do a flush on it. They are many different opinions on what is best , but it is your truck and you do what you feel is best for you.

Mitch

[turnipgreen]

Doing a flush was pretty easy, just requires draining the pan, refilling the pan, detaching one of the hoses on the cooler in the front, and repeatedly turning the engine on, letting it pump out 2 quarts, turning the engine off, refilling the pan. You need someone to help with the turning the engine on and off while you collect the fluid, but it is very simple.

I tow a 4000 lb boat, so I switched to a synthetic, and added a screw on type filter kit just for good measure. Without towing I probably wouldn't have bothered.

Ron

[file014]

I just get on my back and drain 4 quarts out of the tranny pan and replace the plug. Then add about 4 quarts through the dipstick, let it warm up running, and check it. Add a little more if necessary. I did this once at 13K miles. Ill do it about every 10K. My fluid came out like new anyway, so a drain and fill every 10K or so is fine by me.

[mitchr]

Originally Posted by file014

I just get on my back and drain 4 quarts out of the tranny pan and replace the plug. Then add about 4 quarts through the dipstick, let it warm up running, and check it. Add a little more if necessary. I did this once at 13K miles. Ill do it about every 10K. My fluid came out like new anyway, so a drain and fill every 10K or so is fine by me.

Ditto. I have been impressed with how good the used fluid look when I drain it out. I did not change it the first time untill 30,000 and it looked like new then too. I have been addiing synthetic back.

Mitch

[KLS]

1) What type of ATF should I use? The owners manual states, "Toyota Genuine ATF D-II or DEXRON III (DEXRON II)." Is there a particular brand you would recommend? I've always been a Valvoline guy when it comes to oil. I wasn't planning on buying "genuine Toyota". Is Synthetic that much better than the regular stuff? I read somewhere on here that there is a "new type" of transmission fluid out there?

2000 to 2002 Tundras use Dexron®-III ATF. 2003 and later use Toyota Type T-IV ATF. Synthetic Dexron-III ATF has longer fluid life and doesn't overheat quite as readily. Mobil 1 is one excellent brand. There is no ATF licensed by Toyota to replace T-IV. Amsoil is unlicensed but says their synthetic ATF is a suitable replacement for both Dexron-III and T-IV. Lubegard black HFM supplement can be added to convert Dexron-III to T-IV according to Lubegard.

Valvoline is rather non-distinguished among oils. I don't think their ATF has a PAO (polyalphaolefin) base; PAO synthetics have a higher film strength than base oils made from petroleum including "full synthetic" Group III base oil made from very highly refined petroleum. I'd prefer Mobil 1, Schaeffer, Royal Purple, Red Line, or Amsoil. (The only Valvoline products I like are their "Blue" diesel engine oils, and their brake fluid.)


Ken

[mitchr]

Originally Posted by KLS

Valvoline is rather non-distinguished among oils. I don't think their ATF has a PAO (polyalphaolefin) base; PAO synthetics have a higher film strength than base oils made from petroleum including "full synthetic" Group III base oil made from very highly refined petroleum. I'd prefer Mobil 1, Schaeffer, Royal Purple, Red Line, or Amsoil. (The only Valvoline products I like are their "Blue" diesel engine oils, and their brake fluid.)


Ken

You would think by now I would know what I buy. Ken after reading your post I had to go to the garage and look at the bottle and I am using Mobil 1 synthetic ATF and I have alway's used Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil since 8,000 miles. Sorry about the confusion. By the way, Ken have you ever heard and explanation about the desrepency between the 2 quarts the manual states on the drain and refill, but which usually requires 4 quarts. It almost sounds like the same problem they had with the engine oil dipsticks Toyota had on the 2000 Tundra's.

Mitch

[KLS]

No idea where the 2 quarts in the manual vs. the 4 quarts in the drain pan discrepancy came from. You'd think that it would be corrected after a coupl'a years, but....


Ken

[tundrabrad]

Okay, lets add one more question to the mix:

Is there a value to adding BG Products ATC Plus to the ATF?

I was just at the dealership purchasing some T-IV for the Tundra. The guy there said when the dealer does a fluid flush, they always add the BG ATC Plus.

I had decided on the 'replace 4 quarts of ATF every 15,000 miles' strategy versus the dealer flush (and cost) at 60,000 miles.

Any experience or thoughts on the BG product? Just wondering as I will be working this project this weekend!

Thanks,

Brad

[mitchr]

Originally Posted by tundrabrad

Okay, lets add one more question to the mix:

Is there a value to adding BG Products ATC Plus to the ATF?

I was just at the dealership purchasing some T-IV for the Tundra. The guy there said when the dealer does a fluid flush, they always add the BG ATC Plus.

I had decided on the 'replace 4 quarts of ATF every 15,000 miles' strategy versus the dealer flush (and cost) at 60,000 miles.

Any experience or thoughts on the BG product? Just wondering as I will be working this project this weekend!

Thanks,

Brad

What is BG ATC supposed to do? I have seen the BG fuel treatment before, but have not heard of this. Some more snake oil?

[tundrabrad]

Originally Posted by mitchr

What is BG ATC supposed to do? I have seen the BG fuel treatment before, but have not heard of this. Some more snake oil?

Automatic Transmission Conditioner...smoother, softer shifts, less torque converter shudder, fluid lasts longer, less wear on parts. Yes, the standard snake oil guarantees.

BG Products do seem to be held in high regard by many on this site and the fact the dealer is adding this to their fluid flush leads me to think the stuff may have some redeeming qualities...just looking for some opinions. $9.75 a can at the dealer.

Brad