Getting the stock muff on my DC changed out today...I'm gonna leave the stock pipe and maybe have a tip put on it too.
Here's my question: Should I remove the fuse to the engine ECU or disconnect the battery or will the ECU adjust pretty qwik to the new system?
Thans for your Help!
__________________
TheGryme Ummmm Beer Good.....Whiskey Better!
'04 Tundra DC
Grey....V8 SR5 4X4 TRD Off Road Suspension, LSD, Towing Package, Toyo Open Country A/T 265 75 16 ~ 8 Ply's, Magnaflowed (w/ Secret AirBox Mods!), UNIChipped, True~Flowed, DeBadged, ScanGaged, XM'ed.....Yeah!
'92 4Runner
Black, V6, Downey / Rancho suspension F&R, 3 inch sus lift, 1 inch body lift, SAW T-Barz, 4:88's, ARB (rear), 32X12.50 BS Dualers on AR 8X15 Wheelz, Power Slots and Pads, Downey headers, MagnaFlo Muff, K&N FIPK, Ported heads, 1 piece stainless valves...way too much money in it!
'04 YZ250F
Dr.D Header and Can, JD Jetting, P38 AP, UNI Flame Proof Air Filter, No Back Fire Screen, Carbon Fiber Carb Heat Shield, Renthals, ASV Controls....
'87 Nissan Pathfinder......gone but not forgotten.
Getting the stock muff on my DC changed out today...I'm gonna leave the stock pipe and maybe have a tip put on it too.
Here's my question: Should I remove the fuse to the engine ECU or disconnect the battery or will the ECU adjust pretty qwik to the new system?
Thans for your Help!
I wouldn't bother disconnecting anything. Your ECU will adapt pretty quickly as long as you're driving your truck every day. Besides you'll have all your accessories radio, clock to reset if you disconnect any power sources.
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2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 LTX-AT2's, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner, as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to siphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
If your engine doesn't consume ANY oil it will seize???
Some people should not be allowed access to tools without books!!!
Getting the stock muff on my DC changed out today...I'm gonna leave the stock pipe and maybe have a tip put on it too.
Here's my question: Should I remove the fuse to the engine ECU or disconnect the battery or will the ECU adjust pretty qwik to the new system?
Thans for your Help!
Depending on how different your new muffler flows compared to the stock one...and how you drive...will determine how long it takes the ECU to adjust its trims. Muffler changes affect sound more than flow.
Keeping in mind that the stock muffler actually has very good flow and the best aftermarket mufflers improve that by at most 2% (3% if you have headers), you'd probably be best off leaving the ECU alone if you chose one of the better ones (Spintech, Magnaflow, Dynomax). OTOH, if you happened to choose one of the aftermarket mufflers that's known more for sound than flow, you might have a flow reduction of 5% or more and disconnecting the ECU could help.
But even if you disconnect the ECU, it's still going to take a couple of hundred miles before it settles down with new trims.
I therefore agree with LGL002....leave the ECU alone and just give the system a few hundred miles with a half dozen engine shutdown/startups to adjust.
__________________ Ray
Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package
Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra
Thanks!
It's getting a stainless (to help with a long life......I hope!) Magnaflow. And I'm doing it for both sound and power.....I drive about 120 miles every day so it should make any trim adjustments pretty qwik. I'm hoping for a little more power...that'll equal a little better milage. Right now my best has been 16, or 350 miles to a tank. Maybe I can squeeze 16 and a 1/2 outta it?
This is still better milage than my ol 4Runner gets! (11~12)
__________________
TheGryme Ummmm Beer Good.....Whiskey Better!
'04 Tundra DC
Grey....V8 SR5 4X4 TRD Off Road Suspension, LSD, Towing Package, Toyo Open Country A/T 265 75 16 ~ 8 Ply's, Magnaflowed (w/ Secret AirBox Mods!), UNIChipped, True~Flowed, DeBadged, ScanGaged, XM'ed.....Yeah!
'92 4Runner
Black, V6, Downey / Rancho suspension F&R, 3 inch sus lift, 1 inch body lift, SAW T-Barz, 4:88's, ARB (rear), 32X12.50 BS Dualers on AR 8X15 Wheelz, Power Slots and Pads, Downey headers, MagnaFlo Muff, K&N FIPK, Ported heads, 1 piece stainless valves...way too much money in it!
'04 YZ250F
Dr.D Header and Can, JD Jetting, P38 AP, UNI Flame Proof Air Filter, No Back Fire Screen, Carbon Fiber Carb Heat Shield, Renthals, ASV Controls....
'87 Nissan Pathfinder......gone but not forgotten.
Thanks!
It's getting a stainless (to help with a long life......I hope!) Magnaflow. And I'm doing it for both sound and power.....I drive about 120 miles every day so it should make any trim adjustments pretty qwik. I'm hoping for a little more power...that'll equal a little better milage. Right now my best has been 16, or 350 miles to a tank. Maybe I can squeeze 16 and a 1/2 outta it?
This is still better milage than my ol 4Runner gets! (11~12)
The Magnaflow is a very good choice...moderately mellow sound, excellent quality, a little mid-range and up power improvement.
But it's real unlikely to help your mileage...I don't remember ever reading that anyone has gotten better fuel mileage after a muffler replacement. There are two reasons:
First, I presume most of your driving is at highway speeds, tranny in OD, etc...and that your engine is turning somewhere around 2100 to 2300 RPM. At that RPM, there's no real difference in the flow/backpressure of the Magnaflow versus the stock muffler.
Second, the nice sound that exhaust makes is going to really tempt you to "get on" the throttle whenever you accelerate. And that is gonna seriously cost you some fuel...you have a 5200 lb truck and if you use lots of power to get it moving, its gonna really suck down the gas.
Your best economy device is actually your right foot...if you can limit the RPMs to under 2500 on acceleration and hold a very steady 55 to 60 mph on the highway, you'll optimize your fuel economy. The front of this truck is like a barn door...lots of air resistance...drive over 70 mph and you've increased your fuel burn by 20% or so.
__________________ Ray
Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package
Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra
Changing my Exhaust today!
Ummmm Beer Good.....Whiskey Better!
Thanks!
Linear Mode
