You are currently viewing our community as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our Member Supported community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos, content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Freezing in Alaska heater/engine issues", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I am still waiting to see what the dealer will do. I took the truck in on Monday it was there all day then just before quitting time they brought it in the shop. Then told me that they did not have a new thermostat in stock and they would have to order one.
I noticed something very interesting that to me might indicate there is something wrong with the water pump. I let the truck warm up for 20 min.
as usual. When I went to leave I noticed that the temp gauge was about 1/8 of the way up the scale as usual. I then stepped on the gas raised the engine RPM to about 2500 and watched the temp. gauge raise to a little below half way within about 10 seconds. It looks to me that the engine RPM of about 600 is too low for the water pump cirulate the water. It is my understanding that the engine RMP is set by the computer and cannot be adjusted. Logic would tell me that if every Tundra is idleing at the same RPM and some are warm and some are not maybe it could be that I have a bad water pump.
When you raise the engine rpm from idle speed to that range it is generating a lot more heat and standing still means little or no air flow through the radiator. I know that mine will push a lot more hot water and warmer air out of my heater coil cruising down the road at 1700 rpm than it will idling in my driveway with the same mid range temperature gauge reading. It just means the engines generating more heat and water pump's moving the water through the system faster.
Larry
__________________
2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 ATX2 tires, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to syphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
Yes what you stated is true. However my point is that when the temp. gauge responds so quickly (maybe 10 seconds) from just barley off the peg to half way. It seems to me that the water pump is not circulating enough volume of water at low RPM past the temp sensor so it does not register or circulate much water through the heater core.
TundraSolutions.com is a registered trademark of Tundra Solutions, Inc.
Other trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the TundraSolutions.com User Agreement and Privacy Policy.
Linear Mode
