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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "CEL on now did I mess up the MAF sensor?", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Ok guys,
Last night I re-gapped my spark plugs, cleaned my throttle body and the MAF sensor. I also reset my ECU and started it back up. Ist time is started and died. Second time it started and the CEL was on. It has been taking two times to start since and the check engine light has been on and it wont rev past 3000 rpm. I went by autozone for the code reading and it was p0101 twice and p0102. He cleared the memory but the CEL came back on right away. I double checked everything I did and I recleaned the MAF sensor and reset the ecu but the light came back on and it still took two times to start and still will not rev past 3000 rpm. Things were fine before I got motivated last night. I did search for this issue with no real answer. I did check the fuses and they appear fine. I also put in 93 octane gas with some prestone cleaner/ octane boost. Do I need to replace my MAF sensor? Thanks Todd
Ok guys,
Last night I re-gapped my spark plugs, cleaned my throttle body and the MAF sensor. I also reset my ECU and started it back up. Ist time is started and died. Second time it started and the CEL was on. It has been taking two times to start since and the check engine light has been on and it wont rev past 3000 rpm. I went by autozone for the code reading and it was p0101 twice and p0102. He cleared the memory but the CEL came back on right away. I double checked everything I did and I recleaned the MAF sensor and reset the ecu but the light came back on and it still took two times to start and still will not rev past 3000 rpm. Things were fine before I got motivated last night. I did search for this issue with no real answer. I did check the fuses and they appear fine. I also put in 93 octane gas with some prestone cleaner/ octane boost. Do I need to replace my MAF sensor? Thanks Todd
What did you clean your MAF with? Solvent, Qtips, etc? Some solvents will harm the delicate MAF sensor element, ALWAYS use 02 sensor safe solvents when cleaning a MAF sensor.
Also, curious why you'd re-gap the spark plugs and not just replace them? Were they worn, detonated, carbon fouled etc? Reason I ask is that OEM spark plugs are dirt cheap, pre-gapped and seem to hold up pretty well....If you had to regap them, I might guess that they should've been replaced altogether.
Also, since we have a DIS--wires are not really prone to arcing all that much and wire failure can happen it's just not that frequent. It is also possible you have a bad wire...
PS-Forgot to add, you may be WAY out of the Octane range for our engine with 93 AND Octane Boost. You may try running down a half tank and then running some 87 to cut down the mixture a bit. I think our engine's compression ratio is only good up to about 92 Octane.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
I replaced the plugs about two weeks ago and was in a hurry so I just put them in with a gap of 0.044 that they came with. I was lazy and wanted to fix my error last night. My truck is coming up on 80,000 miles and I was starting to hear some misfire (ping). I choose some Bosch Platinum but not the +4's. I cleaned the MAF with the only electric parts cleaner I could find around here. CRC Lectra-Motive Electric parts Cleaner. It says it is residue free and most plastic safe aside from lexan I gather. I sprayed high and let it run down and did not use any q-tips as of yet. I read this procedure in a previous thread. My problem existed prior to my gas and additive choice. Still not sure about the MAF code and why it is present now and why I can't rev about 3k rpm. truck seems fine below 3k rpm. I am open to other options. I have to drive to North Augusta in the am so I will cut my gas with the cheap to correct that possible error. Thanks todd
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit - Range/Performance Problem
Mass air flow meter
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit - Low Input
Open in mass air flow meter circuit
Short in ground circuit
Mass air flow meter
ECM
If any of the following codes is recorded, the ECM enters the fail–safe mode.
P0100
P0102
P0103
Fail–Safe Operation - Ignition timing is fixed at 5° BTDC
__________________ ~Glenn~
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would the mass air flow be under the 60k warranty or the 36k?
__________________ HAVE YOU DRIVEN OVER A FORD LATELY?
Team West SAWS (cranked up to 3.25")
Total Chaos UCA
ORS Manual hub kit
reese front receiver hitch
10,000 lb. winch on receiver hitch
Warn Quick connects front and rear
rear brake porportioning valve mod
3" perfomance products body lift
skyjacker AAL
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__________________ HAVE YOU DRIVEN OVER A FORD LATELY?
Team West SAWS (cranked up to 3.25")
Total Chaos UCA
ORS Manual hub kit
reese front receiver hitch
10,000 lb. winch on receiver hitch
Warn Quick connects front and rear
rear brake porportioning valve mod
3" perfomance products body lift
skyjacker AAL
wheelers urithane kit for front swaybar and steering rack
BFG AT's
Eagle101 wheels
CB radio W/ dual fiberglass 48" ant.
I replaced the plugs about two weeks ago and was in a hurry so I just put them in with a gap of 0.044 that they came with. I was lazy and wanted to fix my error last night. My truck is coming up on 80,000 miles and I was starting to hear some misfire (ping). I choose some Bosch Platinum but not the +4's. I cleaned the MAF with the only electric parts cleaner I could find around here. CRC Lectra-Motive Electric parts Cleaner. It says it is residue free and most plastic safe aside from lexan I gather. I sprayed high and let it run down and did not use any q-tips as of yet. I read this procedure in a previous thread. My problem existed prior to my gas and additive choice. Still not sure about the MAF code and why it is present now and why I can't rev about 3k rpm. truck seems fine below 3k rpm. I am open to other options. I have to drive to North Augusta in the am so I will cut my gas with the cheap to correct that possible error. Thanks todd
Sounds like the error codes are pointing you more toward the MAF but I always though some codes were rather generic anyhow. I used to have the Bosch plats and actually wound up preferring the OEM longevity and performance. They seemed to foul too quickly for my purposes.
Be careful with the Q-tip. I've never been a fan of this method as it's real easy to damage the element. They have a fine coating of something special on them. The only reason I asked is that I know a few people who damaged MAF elements in this manner over the years.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
i am willing to try it as it seems I have damaged the maf anyhow. at least it will drive me till i get the new one. I just can't believe i broke it by spraying it. or was it all that mud and water lonnie made me throw into my intake!
i am willing to try it as it seems I have damaged the maf anyhow. at least it will drive me till i get the new one. I just can't believe i broke it by spraying it. or was it all that mud and water lonnie made me throw into my intake!
hey now...that was a long time ago and no body made you go thru that hole!!! besides it was fun wasn't it?!?!?
__________________ HAVE YOU DRIVEN OVER A FORD LATELY?
Team West SAWS (cranked up to 3.25")
Total Chaos UCA
ORS Manual hub kit
reese front receiver hitch
10,000 lb. winch on receiver hitch
Warn Quick connects front and rear
rear brake porportioning valve mod
3" perfomance products body lift
skyjacker AAL
wheelers urithane kit for front swaybar and steering rack
BFG AT's
Eagle101 wheels
CB radio W/ dual fiberglass 48" ant.
It is unlikely that you damaged your MAF by using that specific brand of cleaner. That is what we use in the shop, works great.
Lets use the keep it simple approach. Things were fine until you wrenched on it, so lets say that until proven otherwise this problem is a result of something you did or did not do.
First examin closely the entire intake tube that runs from the MAF to the throttle body. Make sure all the clamps are tight to prevent air leaks. Next look for any and all hose connections on that air tube. Make real sure you did not leave any of them off. The main vent for the crankcase is a comon thing to leave disconnected.
Now comes the electrical connections. Remove the MAF plug and inspect the metal connections for any bent tabs or corrosion. Now reconnect the MAF plug. Make sure it is firmly snapped into place. Give it a nice tug to make sure it is properly locked into position. Many times these can be in position but not locked into position resulting in a loose connection.
If that checks out start up the truck and then go back out to the MAF sensor and gently jiggle and tug each wire on the MAF plug and see if you can cause it to stall or stumble. If you can you have a broken wire or loose connection that will need to be repaired.
Now, if none of that finds are reproduces the problem, find a buddy near you with the same truck and swap MAF sensors as a test. If the problem goes away, then you need a new MAF sensor. If not, then things get complicated. You will need a FSM and look those codes up in the diagnostic section and follow the diagnostic proceedure listed for those codes to track down the problem, but I will bet you will find it without having to go that far.
I had the same (or similar) "ping" problem. It took me a while to get rid of it and I did pretty much the same things you did (cleaned the MAF, cleaned the TB, cleaned and "lightly" re-oiled the TRD air filter, added BG MOA, ran BG 44K through a tank of gas and replaced the BOSCH Platinum plugs with Denso plugs).
I did use a Q-tip on the MAF but was VERY careful, and used the same electrical cleaner that you used (CRC?). I doubt that the cleaner ruined the MAF, but who knows, anything is possible. Maybe the cleaner dislodged something that is causing a short?
It may be worth a second try cleaning the MAF. If you are REALLY daring you could open it up (what have you got to lose at this point?).
I would also recomend the BG products I mentioned, and I would replace those BOSCH plugs. I have been advised by many other Toyota owners, and two friends at my Toyota Dealership that BOSCH plugs don't play well in Toyotas.
Sorry for the bad experience. Hope you are able to work it out.
When you say you used a Q-Tip to clean the MAF, what exactly did you rub on with the Q-Tip? You know the sensor wires are way up inside the sensor and you can bearly see them. You did not jam that Q-Tip up inside the sensor did you?
All you need to do is let the jet spray of the clean do all the work. Don't touch the sensor wires with anything, ever.
When you say you used a Q-Tip to clean the MAF, what exactly did you rub on with the Q-Tip? You know the sensor wires are way up inside the sensor and you can bearly see them. You did not jam that Q-Tip up inside the sensor did you?
All you need to do is let the jet spray of the clean do all the work. Don't touch the sensor wires with anything, ever.
Gadget
As I said in my original post, I was VERY careful and used the same cleaner that toddkokko used (I think it was CRC electrical contact cleaner). So there was no "Jamming" involved (unless I had my stereo on at the time
CEL on now did I mess up the MAF sensor?
besides it was fun wasn't it?!?!?
