Tundra Solutions Logo

Go Back   Tundra Solutions Forum > Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums > Engine & Drivetrain

Readylift.com



Notices

Engine & Drivetrain Discussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.

This is a discussion thread titled "TRD Duals vs. Banks Monster Exhaust", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.


Reply
 
LinkBack (1) Thread Tools Display Modes
  1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2005, 10:16 PM
RockyMtnRay's Avatar
Supporter
 
My Garage
Dealer : Liberty Toyota Scion of Colorado Springs
2003 Toyota Tundra
My Details
Last Online: 10-12-2008 11:01 AM
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,234
Rep Power: 7
RockyMtnRay is on a distinguished road.
RockyMtnRay's Photo Albums
Default Headers and tuning the exhaust

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasMore66
So, that brings me back to the 4.7L. Does the design of the headers (JBA, TRD, etc) create a slight suction on each cylinder as the other exhaust valves open? I noticed that you have the JBA headers and only a Gibson muffler on your truck. I’ve seen other header manufactures make this claim-the Doug Thorley Tri-Y comes to mind.
Keep in mind that the Tundra 4.7L is 4 valve per cylinder engine and that alone makes it a lot freer breathing than the 2 valve per cylinder traditional Chevy V8.

Getting to your questions...yes, the design of the headers does make a big difference in the location and shape of the torque curve. For the Tundra, there are fundamentally 3 different header designs, but somewhat surprisingly, they all provide about the same amount of maximum torque increase (around 25 ft-lbs). The RPM where that maximum occurs is different between header designs as is the RPM where there is an onset of increased torque from the headers. Keep in mind the maximum torque with the stock manifold is at 3400 RPM and there's no noticeable sharpening of the torque curve at any RPM.

First, the true long and equal tube length S&S...these have a modified Tri-Y design and are very long with the collector roughly abreast of the transmission. Onset of torque increase is around 2200 RPM and max torque is around 3000.

2nd, the mid length TRD (and Downey). Single collector and unequal tube length. Onset of torque increase is around 2600 to 2700 RPM and max torque is very close to stock at 3400.

Third are the "shorty" headers from JBA and the various JBA clones/knockoffs like SS Autochrome (aka Stone Mountain), Gibson, Holley, etc. Direct manifold replacement, single collector, unequal tubes. Other than the JBA, these have a torque onset at around 3000 RPM and max torque is at about 3600 RPM (a little higher than stock).

JBA Headers are a little different from the the other "shorties" because they have a patented "fire cone" protrusion on the collector bung (instead of a flat plate) which greatly reduces the turbulence in the gas streams where the narrow individual tubes merge into the outlet. The result is that JBA headers act more like a longer header and have characteristics very similar to the TRDs...i.e. the onset of torque is lower (around 2700 to 2800 RPM) and max torque is around 3400 RPM.

That all of these headers sharpen the torque curve as well raise the maximum torque is a strong indication that they are getting rid of the high back pressures in the stock manifold from exhaust pulse collisions and turbulent flow from the right angle manifold ports...or they are actually doing some extraction due to better timing of the pulse merging (e.g. low pressure on the back side of the pulse from one cylinder acts like a vacuum to the front side of the pulse from another cylinder)...or some combination of the above. The differences in torque increase onset RPM between the various designs does indicate some tuning effect from the different designs; the similarity in increase in maximum torque increase indicates mostly an avoidance of stock manifold backpressure.

Now getting to why I chose JBA headers and a Gibson muffler.

Let me first explain that I bought my Tundra primarily to be a tow vehicle for my travel trailer...and my need was maximum torque at low to mid RPM for highway towing at high altitude over steep mountain grades. Quite frankly, I'm not particularly interested in torque (or horsepower) at RPMs over about 4200 RPM. I am, however, exceedingly interested in maximizing torque at RPMs between about 2500 and 3200. And I have to deal with MagChloride and Salt covered winter roads..and that immediately eliminated the S&S headers as they're constructed of mild steel.

I chose the JBA headers because they act like long tube headers (torque boost comes on early) but don't require any mucking with the catalytic converters. They're also 100% stainless and can be ordered with ceramic coating which is critical to minimizing under hood temps when towing. I also have to meet stringent emissions requirements where I live and I'm ecologically aware enough that I also don't want to screw up my truck's exceptionally good emissions. Sure, the Autochrome and other JBA knockoffs provide about the same total torque boost as the JBAs (and cost hundreds of $ less) but they do it at 400 to 600 higher RPM...no big deal for general acceleration but a really huge negative for those of us who are interested in maximizing towing torque at the lowest feasible engine speed.

As for the Gibson muffler, first note that I left the exhaust pipe alone...it's the same 2 3/8 inch stock size that's optimum for low to mid RPM. Gibson is highly respected in RV & towing circles because they make a very quiet yet low restriction muffler that's optimized for towing operations. And this muffler does work superbly for towing...it's amazingly quiet even at full power yet still provides enhanced low RPM torque. Nearly all other performance muffler are very loud at full throttle and provide most of their enhancement at high (over 4000 RPM) engine speed....but adding this muffler to my headers actually changed the tuning of my exhaust system toward the lower RPMs. The combo of Gibson muffler and JBA headers actually lowered my peak torque RPM from 3400 to 3200 and the onset of torque increase is now all the way down to 2500 RPM. In many respects I now have the low end grunt of a diesel powered truck.

I would not, however, recommend a Gibson muffler to anyone who doesn't do serious towing. Its acoustics are simply not what most people want in a "performance" muffler...for one thing, it actually gets quieter the harder you "get on" the throttle. And once the engine gets above about 1000 RPM there's no "V8 Sound" at all...just a very noticeable, though tolerable, growl until around 2100 RPM. That's not a biggie if you run with overdrive off for serious towing (where highway RPM is in the 2500 to 3500 RPM range) but could be a real irritant if you don't.

HTH
__________________
Ray


Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package

Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra

Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote

  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2005, 10:59 PM
Supporter
 
My Garage
Dealer : Toyota of Midland
2003 Toyota Tundra,
2001 Toyota Highlander,
- Other - 1992 Paseo
My Details
Last Online: 08-02-2008 01:14 AM
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North, Texas
Age: 42
Posts: 161
Rep Power: 5
ThomasMore66 is on a distinguished road.
ThomasMore66's Photo Albums
Default

This is one of the best discussions that I’ve had in a long time. I bought the Tundra because I’m extremely focused on quality – this is my second Toyota. However, I do hate that I don’t have as much power as the competition. I’ve spent my whole life tinkering with American engines and they almost all respond to the same things. However, with only a few exceptions, those engines are all two-valve, push-rod engines that do have different characteristics than the fast response of the overhead-cam Toyota.

I had already focused in on the JBA, but you enlightened me to a few new details. I really don’t want to have to mod the cat’s or the O2 sensors. I’ve had some bad experience with those in the past and reliability is always a concern. I do drive my Tundra everyday and I don’t want to hamper that activity. I had keyed on the fact that the JBA’s dropped-in where the OEM manifolds reside today. However, don’t the TRD headers bolt-in too?

I don’t plan on towing much if ever with my truck. I will load it down from time-to-time with various things, but towing isn’t my primary concern. Therefore, if you combine the JBA’s with any of the cat-back units, which ones won’t adversely affect the current torque curve vs. RPM? I’m not ready to substantially move the curve toward the higher RPM when the computer governs the shift points. I was stunned the day I figured out there was an RPM limiter…the motor was purring ever so nicely and then…I thought I had really hurt it. I know, Unichip is the answer for that. I’ve talked to them too.

Also, I noticed that you don’t list any type of air intake mods. I drive down quite a few dusty dirt roads, and I haven’t wanted to install the K&N FIPK for fear of getting too much dirt on the filter element. What are your thoughts on the intake? I actually think the design is pretty good. It might benefit from some smoothing of the passages, but it seems to move air pretty well. I looked at the RAPS system, but I don’t think I want the intake down closer to the ground. It would be just like a vacuum.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2005, 11:46 PM
RockyMtnRay's Avatar
Supporter
 
My Garage
Dealer : Liberty Toyota Scion of Colorado Springs
2003 Toyota Tundra
My Details
Last Online: 10-12-2008 11:01 AM
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,234
Rep Power: 7
RockyMtnRay is on a distinguished road.
RockyMtnRay's Photo Albums
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasMore66
I had keyed on the fact that the JBA’s dropped-in where the OEM manifolds reside today. However, don’t the TRD headers bolt-in too?
No, because the TRDs are longer than the stock manifold, they require some welding...actually quite a lot of cutting and welding on '03s and '04s. You'll note that the TRD headers are always marketed for '00 to '02 model years and not for '03 and newer. TRD headers ship with a replacement for the upper part of the exhaust ahead of the cats...installation on an '02 or earlier required cutting the exhaust pipes at the top of the cats and simply welding the TRD supplied head pipe in their place.

However, starting with the '03s, Toyota moved the cats much closer to the end of the manifolds and the stub section shipped with the TRD headers is now too long to fit. So, on a '03 or '04, a section of pipe behind each cat has to be cut out, the cat welded back in further downstream from the manifold and the TRD section welded in above the cat. In all likelihood, the 02 sensor wiring has to be extended as well and that's always a bit tricky due to the fact the wiring is shielded. It gets complicated (and pretty expensive) and emissions warranty problems are a distinct possibilty.

Furthermore, unlike the JBAs, you can not order the TRDs with ceramic coating...and they cost more than coated JBAs. Certainly you can send TRDs to a company like JetHot to be coated but that's another couple of hundred $ on top of the high price of the TRDs.

Quote:
I don’t plan on towing much if ever with my truck. I will load it down from time-to-time with various things, but towing isn’t my primary concern. Therefore, if you combine the JBA’s with any of the cat-back units, which ones won’t adversely affect the current torque curve vs. RPM?
Since all cat-back "systems" use commonly available 2 1/2 inch pipe, IMO they all will somewhat raise the maximum torque RPM by 100 to 200 RPM. That's why there's so much commentary on this website about only replacing the muffler and not the exhaust piping. And for that purpose, the general consensus is that either Spintech, Magnaflow, or Dynomax mufflers will produce both a torque increase and a pleasing "V8 Sound" without excessive loudness.
Quote:
Also, I noticed that you don’t list any type of air intake mods. I drive down quite a few dusty dirt roads, and I haven’t wanted to install the K&N FIPK for fear of getting too much dirt on the filter element. What are your thoughts on the intake? I actually think the design is pretty good. It might benefit from some smoothing of the passages, but it seems to move air pretty well. I looked at the RAPS system, but I don’t think I want the intake down closer to the ground. It would be just like a vacuum.
The stock airbox design is indeed excellent and the filter element flows as well as (or better than) any of the aftermarket filters, particularly the K&N filter or FIPK. There's a very good reason why I don't list an FIPK in my mods...IMO replacement intakes are a terrible mod for towing usage. I personally will never install a K&N (or AEM) FIPK system for the following reasons:
  • Less (not more) torque below about 3000 RPM. The majority of dyno results that I've seen (including K&N's own dyno chart for the FIPK).... plus the testimony of a lot of people indicate there's a substantial (around 3 to 5%) drop in low end torque with a K&N FIPK. These things do seem to increase high RPM power but power increases at RPMs above 3500 are of little interest to me for towing.
  • Excessive noise at high throttle openings. I despise noise and cherish quiet. Towing, especially high altitude mountain towing, involves extended periods (like up to an hour at a time) of very high throttle opening. I long, long ago outgrew the need to hear an "awesome" roar from my engine.
  • The oiled gauze filters used by both K&N and AEM let in waaaaay too much dirt for my tastes. There have been more than enough reports about dirty intake tracts and dirtier oil with a K&N to convince me the K&N filters are not very effective.
  • Even if you're very careful to not over-oil the filter (and take a chance on not oiling it enough), some to a lot of the oil gets sucked off the gauze and deposited on the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. The MAF sensor uses "hot wire" technology so that deposited oil polymerizes and bakes onto the sensor wires, thereby causing erroneous inputs into the engine control unit (ECU). Bad inputs mean poor fuel mixtures, poor performance, etc.
So, bottom line is I wouldn't install any FIPK (or gauze type filter) even if someone offered it to me for free.

As for the RAPS, I haven't made up my mind. Member "Tremo" who created the RAPS device did so to solve a genuine problem with the K&N FIPK...namely it mostly sucks in hot engine compartment air. The stock airbox is a true cold air intake (it gets its supply from the inner fender) so I'm not yet convinced that RAPS will do much for a stock intake...especially at low to mid range engine RPM.
__________________
Ray


Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package

Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra

Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2005, 12:57 AM
Supporter
 
My Garage
Dealer : Toyota of Midland
2003 Toyota Tundra,
2001 Toyota Highlander,
- Other - 1992 Paseo
My Details
Last Online: 08-02-2008 01:14 AM
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North, Texas
Age: 42
Posts: 161
Rep Power: 5
ThomasMore66 is on a distinguished road.
ThomasMore66's Photo Albums
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent WD-40
What do you want to know? Sound, quality, power... PM Agent 409, he has their duals. There are a few video clips in his gallery too. IMO the Bassani is the best sounding exhaust I have heard in person for the Tundra. Next to Bassani the only other exhaust that I thought sounded cooler were dual glass packs but I didn't hear them in person.
Has anybody posted dyno curves for the Bassani? I know that they make two different cat-back systems for the Tundra.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2005, 01:32 AM
Lexus Luthor's Avatar
Junior Member
 
My Garage
Dealer : Carson Toyota Scion
2004 Toyota Sienna
My Details
Last Online: 09-08-2008 12:38 AM
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Metropolis (Southern California)
Age: 36
Posts: 448
Rep Power: 7
Lexus Luthor is on a distinguished road.
Lexus Luthor's Photo Albums
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent WD-40
Lexus Luthor, did you decide yet?
Yeah..I have decided to hold off on the Banks System. I looks great as I previously stated but I specifically asked them to provide me w/ as much lit as possible including some real dyno #'s and all they did was send out a single page, double sided flyer that explains what each part of the exhast is. Duh...like I don't know that the exhaust tip is THE exhaust tip.

So all in all I have decided to hold off on the Banks system.

I have to say that this started out as a sleepy thread and has now turned into a nice little hot bed of discussion. I have learned a lot from our fellow members here (even the jargon/lingo I don't understand). I kinda feel like the small new guy sitting in the corner watching everyone else just talk away while I just sit there and nod my head if anyone looks at me.

I will say one thing that I have learned...that no matter what exhaust system you have or want or believe in, EVERYONE'S desires and expectations are different. Some want sound, some want looks,some want HP at high RPMs, some want HP at low RPMS, some use them for towing, some for street performance.

I think that is the both the beauty and the beast of this site. It makes guys like me who don't know a lot have to really really think about what I want and sift through all the great information to come to a reasonable conclusion. You know...sometimes too much information is a bad thing. It just confuses you even more.

Thanks to all for the great and informative thread.

Carry on....
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2005, 02:13 AM
Agent WD-40's Avatar
Supporter
 
My Garage
Dealer : Fox Toyota of Rochester
2001 Toyota Tundra
My Details
Last Online: 09-20-2008 05:04 PM
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: The Motor City
Posts: 2,896
Rep Power: 11
Agent WD-40 is on a distinguished road.
Agent WD-40's Photo Albums
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasMore66
Has anybody posted dyno curves for the Bassani? I know that they make two different cat-back systems for the Tundra.
I know Dude Boy (or DudeBoy... not sure about the space) has a Gtech and Bassani. He might have taken some before and afters... I know that isn't quite as good as a dyno but it might be worth a shot to see what he says. My brother (who has the dual inlet dual outlet Bassani w/xmuffler) says he didn't feel any torque loss. I know that is subjective but everybody else complains about feeling the torque loss so it might say something.
__________________


"You play the hand you're dealt. I think the game's worthwhile." -C. S. Lewis
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2005, 02:16 AM
Agent WD-40's Avatar
Supporter
 
My Garage
Dealer : Fox Toyota of Rochester
2001 Toyota Tundra
My Details
Last Online: 09-20-2008 05:04 PM
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: The Motor City
Posts: 2,896
Rep Power: 11
Agent WD-40 is on a distinguished road.
Agent WD-40's Photo Albums
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexus Luthor
You know...sometimes too much information is a bad thing. It just confuses you even more.
Huh, tell that to my engineering professors. Anyhow, glad you made your decision. Enjoy. IMO the TRD system cannot be beat for looks and the sound is pretty top notch too. I wouldn't mind if it were a bit louder though.
__________________


"You play the hand you're dealt. I think the game's worthwhile." -C. S. Lewis
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2005, 02:19 AM
Muleskinner's Avatar
Junior Member
 
My Garage
Dealer : I-10 Toyota Scion
2004 Toyota Tundra
My Details
Last Online: 03-15-2008 04:37 AM
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Pioneertown, CA
Posts: 229
Rep Power: 5
Muleskinner is on a distinguished road.
Muleskinner's Photo Albums
Default Good Info

Here is some good exhaust system information from a performance vehicle web site. It's very long, but worth the reading


Exhaust Theory

We've seen too much misinformation regarding exhaust theory. What kind of misinformation? For starters, there are a lot of people in the "Bigger is Better" camp. We're talking about exhaust pipe diameters. Even the big magazine editors are boldly smattering statements like, "For a turbo car, you can't get an exhaust pipe that's too big." Also, terms like "back pressure" and the statement, "An engine needs back pressure to run properly!" really rub us the wrong way.

Let's start from the beginning. What is an exhaust system? Silly question? Not hardly. Exhaust systems carry out several functions. Among them are: (1) Getting hot, noxious exhaust gasses from your engine to a place away from the engine compartment; (2) Significantly attenuating noise output from the engine; and (3) In the case of modern cars, reduce exhaust emissions.

Hardware

In order to give you a really good idea of what makes up an exhaust system, let's start with what exhaust gas travels through to get out of your car, as well as some terms and definitions:

After your air/fuel mixture (or nitrous/fuel mixture) burns, you will obviously have some leftovers consisting of a few unburned hydrocarbons (fuel), carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxides, sulfur dioxide, phosphorus, and the occasional molecule of a heavy metal, such as lead or molybdenum. These are all in gaseous form, and will be under a lot of pressure as the piston rushes them out of the cylinder and into the exhaust manifold or header. They will also be hotter 'n Hades. (After all, this was the explosion of an air/fuel mixture, right?) An exhaust manifold is usually made of cast iron, and its' primary purpose is to funnel several exhaust ports into one, so you don't need four exhaust pipes sticking out the back of your Civic.

Exhaust manifolds are usually pretty restrictive to the flow of exhaust gas, and thus waste a lot of power because your pistons have to push on the exhaust gasses pretty hard to get them out. So why does virtually every new automobile sold have exhaust manifolds? Because they are cheap to produce, and easy to install. Real cheap. Real easy. Like me.

"Ok," you ask, "so now what?" Ah, good thing you asked. The performance alternative to the exhaust manifold is a header. What's the difference? Where a manifold usually has several holes converging into a common chamber to route all your gasses, a header has precisely formed tubes that curve gently to join your exhaust ports to your exhaust pipe. How does this help? First of all, as with any fluid, exhaust gasses must be treated gently for maximum horsepower production. You don't want to just slam-bang exhaust gas from your engine into the exhaust system. No way, Jo-se'! Just as the body of your '94 Eclipse is beautiful, swoopy, and aerodynamic, so must be the inside of your exhaust system.

Secondly, a header can be "tuned" to slightly alter your engines' characteristics. We'll go in-depth into header tuning a little later.

Nextly, exhaust gasses exit from your manifold or header, travel through a bit of pipe, then end up in the catalytic converter, or "cat". The cat's main job is to help clean up some of the harmful chemicals from your exhaust gas so they don't end up in your lungs. In most cars, they also do a great job of quieting things down and giving any exhaust system a deeper, mellow tone. You'll see a lot of Self-Proclaimed Master Technicians (SPMT's) telling people that removing a cat will get you tons of power. There's room for debate on this, but in our experience, removing a catalytic converter from a new car won't gain you much in the horsepower department. It can also get you a $1500 fine if the EPA finds out! If you drive an OBD-II equipped car, you'll also get that damn annoying CHECK ENGINE light burnin' up your dashboard. (And for all you racers concerned with OBD-II's fabled "limp mode", you can put your fears to rest.)

From the catalytic converter, the exhaust gasses go through a bit more pipe and then into a muffler, or system consisting of several mufflers and/or resonators.

Are you a muff?

Exhaust gases leave the engine under extremely high pressure. If we allowed exhaust gasses escape to the atmosphere directly from the exhaust port, you can well imagine how loud and cop-attracting the noise would be. For the same reason gunshots are loud, engine exhaust is loud. Sure, it might be cool to drive around on the street with that testosterone producing, chest-thumping, 150 decibel roar coming from your car… for about 5.3 seconds. (Not 5.2 or 5.4 seconds… 5.3.) Even the gentleman's gentleman has gotta use a muffler, or system of mufflers, on their exhaust.

Again, you may hear a few SPMT's tell you that "Borla mufflers make horsepower!" Or "An engine needs some backpressure to run properly!" Nonsense. A muffler can no more "make" horsepower than Wile E. Coyote can catch roadrunners. Any technician with any dyno experience will tell you that the best mufflers are no mufflers at all!

Types of Muff

Mufflers can take care of the silencing chores by three major methods: Absorption, Restriction, and Reflection. Mufflers can use one method, or all three, to attenuate sound that is not so pleasing to the ears of the Highway Patrol.

The absorption method is probably the least effective at quelling engine roar, but the benefit is that "absorbers" are also best at letting exhaust gas through. Good examples of absorbers are the mufflers found in GReddy BL-series exhausts, DynoMax UltraFlow, and the good old-fashioned Cherry Bomb glasspack.

Absorption mufflers are also the simplest. All of the above named mufflers utilize a simple construction consisting of a perforated tube that goes through a can filled with a packing material, such as fiberglass or steel wool. This is similar to simply punching holes in your exhaust pipe, then wrapping it up with insulation. Neat, huh?

Another trick absorption mufflers use to kill off noise is, well, tricky. For example, the Hooker Aero Chamber muffler is a straight-through design, with a catch. Instead of a simple, perforated tube, there is a chamber inside the muffler that is much larger than the rest of the exhaust pipe. This design abates sound more efficiently than your standard straight-through because when the exhaust gasses enter this large chamber they slow down dramatically. This gives them more time to dwell in the sound insulation, and thus absorb more noise. The large chamber gently tapers back into the smaller size of your exhaust pipe, and the exhaust gasses are sent on their merry way to the tailpipe.

Restriction

Doesn't that word just make your skin crawl? It's right up there in the same league with words like "maim" and "rape". Obviously, a restrictive muffler doesn't require much engineering expertise, and is almost always the least expensive to manufacture. Thus, we find restrictive mufflers on almost all OEM exhaust systems. We won't waste much time on the restrictive muffler except to say that if you got 'em, you might not want to flaunt 'em.

Reflection

Probably the most sophisticated type of muffler is the reflector. They often utilize absorption principles in conjunction with reflection to make the ultimate high-performance silencer. Remember any of your junior high school math? Specifically, that like numbers cancel each other when on a criss-cross? That's the same principal used by the reflective muffler. Sound is a wave. And when two like waves collide, they will "cancel" each other and leave nothing to call a corpse but a spot of low-grade heat.

There are numerous engineering tricks used in the reflective muffler. Hedman Hedders makes a muffler that looks a lot like a glasspack. In fact, it is a glasspack with a catch. The outer casing is sized just-so, so that high-pitched engine sound (what we deem "noise") is reflected back into the core of the muffler… where those sound waves meet their maker as they slam right into a torrent of more sound waves of like wavelength coming straight from the engine. And, this muffler is packed with a lot of fiberglass to help absorb any straggling noise that might be lagging behind.

The Exhaust Pulse

To gain a more complete understanding of how mufflers and headers do their job, we must be familiar with the dynamics of the exhaust pulse itself. Exhaust gas does not come out of the engine in one continuous stream. Since exhaust valves open and close, exhaust gas will flow, then stop, and then flow again as the exhaust valve opens. The more cylinders you have, the closer together these pulses run.

Keep in mind that for a "pulse" to move, the leading edge must be of a higher pressure than the surrounding atmosphere. The "body" of a pulse is very close to ambient pressure, and the tail end of the pulse is lower than ambient. It is so low, in fact, that it is almost a complete vacuum! The pressure differential is what keeps a pulse moving. A good Mr. Wizard experiment to illustrate this is a coffee can with the metal ends cut out and replaced with the plastic lids. Cut a hole in one of the lids, point it toward a lit candle and thump on the other plastic lid. What happens? The candle flame jumps, then blows out! The "jump" is caused by the high-pressure bow of the pulse we just created, and the candle goes out because the trailing portion of the pulse doesn't have enough oxygen-containing air to support combustion. Neat, huh?

Ok, now that we know that exhaust gas is actually a series of pulses, we can use this knowledge to propagate the forward-motion to the tailpipe. How? Ah, more of the engineering tricks we are so fond of come in to play here.

Just as Paula Abdul will tell you that opposites attract, the low pressure tail end of an exhaust pulse will most definitely attract the high-pressure bow of the following pulse, effectively "sucking" it along. This is what's so cool about a header. The runners on a header are specifically tuned to allow our exhaust pulses to "line up" and "suck" each other along! Whoa, bet you didn't know that! This brings up a few more issues, since engines rev at various speeds, the exhaust pulses don't always exactly line up. Thus, the reason for the Try-Y header, a 4-into-1 header, etc. Most Honda headers are tuned to make the most horsepower in high RPM ranges; usually 4,500 to 6,500 RPM. A good 4-into-1 header, such as the ones sold by Gude, are optimal for that high winding horsepower you've always dreamed of. What are exhaust manifolds and stock exhaust systems good for? Besides a really cheap boat anchor? If you think about it, you'll realize that since stock exhausts are so good at restricting that they'll actually ram the exhaust pulses together and actually make pretty darn good low-end torque! Something to keep in mind, though, is that even though an OEM exhaust may make gobs of low-end torque, they are not the most efficient setup overall, since your engine has to work so hard to expel those exhaust gasses. Also, a header does a pretty good job of additionally "sucking" more exhaust from your combustion chamber, so on the next intake stroke there's lots more fresh air to burn. Think of it this way: At 8,000 RPM, your Integra GS-R is making 280 pulses per second. There's a lot more to be gained by minimizing pumping losses as this busy time than optimizing torque production during the slow season.

General Rules of Thumb with Headers

You will undoubtedly see a variety of headers at your local speed shop. While you won't be able to determine the optimal power range of the headers by eyeballing them, you'll find that in general, the best high-revving horsepower can be had with headers utilizing larger diameter, shorter primary tubes. Headers with smaller, longer primaries will get you
slightly better fuel economy and better street driveability. With four cylinder engines, these are also usually of the Tri-Y design, such as the DC Sports and Lightspeed headers.

Do Mufflers "Make" Horsepower?

The answer, simply, is no. The most efficient mufflers can only employ the same scavenging effect as a header, to help slightly overcome the loss of efficiency introduced into the system as back pressure. But I have yet to see an engine that made more power with a muffler than an open header exhaust. "So," you ask, "what the hell is the best flowing muffler I can buy?"

According to the flowbench, two of the best flowing units you can buy are the Walker Dyno Max and the Cyclone Sonic. They even slightly out flow the straight through designs from HKS and GReddy BL series. Amongst the worst, are the Thrush Turbo and Flow Master mufflers. We'll flow some of the newer mufflers as they become available at our local Chief auto.

Resonators

On your typical cat-back exhaust system, you'll see a couple of bulges in the piping that are apparently mini-mufflers out to help the big muffler that hangs out back. These are called Helmholtz Resonators and are very similar to glasspacks. The main difference is that firstly, there is no sound-absorbing fiberglass or steel wool in a Resonator. And secondly, their main method of silencing is the reflective principle, not absorption. An easy way to tell the difference between a glasspack and a true Helmholtz Resonator is to "ping" one with your finger. A glasspack will make a dull thud, and a true Resonator will make a clear "ping!" sound.

Turbos

Another object that might be sitting in your exhaust flow is a turbine from a turbocharger. If that is the case, we envy you. Not only that, but turbos introduce a bit of backpressure to your exhaust system, thus making it a bit quieter. All of the typical scavenging rules still apply, but with a twist. Mufflers work really well now! Remember, one of the silencing methods is restriction, and a turbine is just that, a restriction.

This is actually where the term "turbo muffler" is coined. Since a turbine does a pretty good job of silencing, OEM turbo mufflers can do a lot less restricting to quiet things down. Of course, aftermarket manufacturers took advantage of this performance image and branded a lot of their products with the "turbo" name in order to drum up more business from the high performance crowd. We're sad to say that the term "turbo" has been bastardized in this respect, and would like that to serve as a warning. A "turbo" muffler is not necessarily a high-performance muffler.

Pipe Sizing

We've seen quiet a few "experienced" racers tell people that a bigger exhaust is a better exhaust. Hahaha… NOT. As discussed earlier, exhaust gas is hot. And we'd like to keep it hot throughout the exhaust system. Why? The answer is simple. Cold air is dense air, and dense air is heavy air. We don't want our engine to be pushing a heavy mass of exhaust gas out of the tailpipe. An extremely large exhaust pipe will cause a slow exhaust flow, which will in turn give the gas plenty of time to cool off en route. Overlarge piping will also allow our exhaust pulses to achieve a higher level of entropy, which will take all of our header tuning and throw it out the window, as pulses will not have the same tendency to line up as they would in a smaller pipe. Coating the entire exhaust system with an insulative material, such as header wrap or a ceramic thermal barrier coating reduces this effect somewhat, but unless you have lots of cash burning a hole in your pocket, is probably not worth the expense on a street driven car.

Unfortunately, we know of no accurate way to calculate optimal exhaust pipe diameter. This is mainly due to the random nature of an exhaust system -- things like bends or kinks in the piping, temperature fluctuations, differences in muffler design, and the lot, make selecting a pipe diameter little more than a guessing game. For engines making 250 to 350 horsepower, the generally accepted pipe diameter is 3 to 3 ½ inches. Over that amount, you'd be best off going to 4 inches. If you have an engine making over 400 to 500 horsepower, you'd better be happy capping off the fun with a 4 inch exhaust. Ah, the drawbacks of horsepower. The best alternative here would probably be to just run open
exhaust!

Other Rules

A lot of the time, you'll hear someone talking about how much hotter the exhaust system on a turbo car gets than a naturally aspirated car. Well, if you are catching my drift so far, you'll know that this is a bunch of BS. The temperature of exhaust gas is controlled by air/fuel mixture, spark, and cam timing. Not the turbo hanging off the exhaust manifold.

When designing an exhaust system, turbocharged engines follow the same rules as naturally aspirated engines. About the only difference is that the turbo engine will require quite a bit less silencing.

Another thing to keep in mind is that, even though it would be really super cool to get a 4 inch, mandrel bent exhaust system installed under your car, keep in mind that all of that beautiful art work won't do you a bit of good if the piping is so big that it gets punctured as you drag it over a speed bump! A good example of this is the 3 inch, cat back system sold by Thermal Research and Development for the Talon/Laser/Eclipse cars. The piping is too big to follow the stock routing exactly, and instead of going up over the rear suspension control arms, it hangs down below the mechanicals, right there in reach of large rocks! So when designing your Ultimate Exhaust System, do be careful!


Now for stainless steel exhaust systems



Stainless steel is a material that we wish never was labeled "stainless" because it can do so much more than simply resist rust. The origins of stainless steel date back to the early 1900s when an English metallurgist developed a type of steel for making knives that would not rust. Technically, "Stainless Steel" is strictly a trade name applied to what are known as corrosion-resistant steels. It is a fabulous material that outperforms mild and alloy steels in so many different applications in racing that no other material can match it, and all racers should consider it as a vital element in their fabricating efforts. However, stainless steel does have some unique properties that the fabricator needs to know about before launching into a project. An interesting characteristic of many types of stainless steel is that they are non-magnetic, a quality that makes them very important in the aerospace industry. Compared to mild steel, stainless steel has superior high temperature characteristics. It is an excellent material for headers and exhaust systems, or any application where high heat is encountered.

Stainless steel is similar to mild and alloy steels; it is an alloy of iron that contains at least 12% chromium. This high chromium content retards corrosion giving the steel its "stainless" quality. There are many alloys of stainless steel, which are broken down into two basic categories:

Chromium-nickel grades
Straight chromium grades
The chromium-nickel grades are the more common stainless steels used in race car fabrication compared to the straight chromium types, due to the nickel content which provides excellent weldability and corrosion resistance. Also, this nickel improves some mechanical properties such as fatigue strength, toughness and ductility. People sometimes refer to stainless steels based on their chromium and nickel content: for instance, 18-8 stainless has 18% chromium and 8% nickel in it.

Stainless steel typically has a rather low carbon content, in the range of .08% to .15%, and sometimes as low as .03%. The carbon is needed for hardness, but it also can cause the stainless to become susceptible to corrosion at high temperatures. What happens is this: when chromium-nickel steel is heated to a temperature range of 800° to 1590°F, the carbon in the steel combines with chromium to form chromium carbides. This transformation is called carbide precipitation and reduces the corrosion resistance of the steel. The chromium is reduced in this heat-affected area and makes the steel subject to what is known as intergranular corrosion. Some stainless steels are known as low carbon grades to minimize this carbide precipitation; others, such as 321, are special alloys that reduce carbide precipitation by combining and stabilizing the chromium at elevated temperatures.

You may have heard Smokey Yunick talk about maintaining high exhaust velocity and increase scavenging by covering headers with a thermal wrap. In addition, there are companies that coat headers with a thermal barrier, typically some type of ceramic formula, in order to keep the heat inside the exhaust system. Stainless steel performs this function without the need for add-ons because it has a much lower coefficient of thermal conductivity, thereby keeping more heat inside and transmitting it to the header outlet. Radiated heat is perhaps the most important reason to wrap or ceramic coat the headers to protect the car and the driver from excessive, fatiguing high temperatures.

Typical 1010 carbon (mild) steel conducts 219% more heat per foot than do the types of stainless steel we use in header fabrication. By contrast, quite a bit more heat stays inside the stainless header tubes and does not get passed into the surrounding air. By not allowing the contraction of the cooling gases as they flow down the tubes, more exhaust velocity is retained which promotes better scavenging at the collector. This retention of velocity increases the overall header efficiency.

You've probably seen Indy cars with their enclosed engine compartments and thermal clam-shell enclosures around their turbocharger headers. They must thermally wrap their exhaust pipes just so the radiant heat off the tubes won't cause fires or melt any critical systems. In this case headers made out of mild steel would completely fail and break apart due to the severe heat retention, let alone scale and send death particles into the turbocharger, ruining the turbine blades. 321 stainless steel has excellent high temperature fatigue resistance in this enclosed application and does a darn good job of living in this hostile environment better than any other material except the ultra-high nickel content steels ( such an Inconel ), which are hard to find, very difficult to work with and extremely expensive.

These many characteristics, such as superior heat retention properties, high temperature fatigue resistance, and to a lesser extent, the cosmetic value of a non-rusting finish, combine to make stainless steel an ideal choice for headers and exhaust systems. Such a system will produce more horsepower and last "'til the cows come home". It is an excellent solution. Now that you are sold on the merits of stainless steel, there are a number of things you need to know about the different types available before you launch into a header and exhaust system project.

A three-digit numerical classification system is used throughout the industry. The racer needs to be familiar with only one of these three-digit series within the system - the 300 series. They offer the fabricator a wide array of choices, from ornamental quality up through the highest-temperature and closest-tolerance aircraft quality.

Within the 300 series of stainless steels, there are four types that are suitable, available and cost effective for the racer. These are 304, 316L, 321, and 347.

321 and 347 are known as stabilized grades of stainless. These are alloyed with either titanium (321) or columbium (347), both of which have a much stronger affinity for carbon than does chromium at elevated temperatures. This eliminates carbide precipitation leaving the chromium where it belongs for corrosion protection...remember our discussion of intergranular corrosion? Both 321 and 347 are top choices for exhaust headers, especially turbocharger systems and rotary engines. Since 321 is much more available than 347, that leaves 321 as the first choice, with no sacrifice in needed qualities.

316L is an extra low carbon (ELC) grade of stainless that has only .03% carbon, making less carbon available to precipitate with the chromium. It is used extensively in marine exhausts where salt water corrosion mixed with diesel exhaust particulates and electrolysis create such a horrible environment that even other grades of stainless cower and run away!

304 is the most inexpensive and available stainless in the 300 series. It is suitable for normally-aspirated header applications, and has been successfully used by many racing teams. It does not have the high temperature fatigue resistance that 321 does, but is considerably less costly and much more available. Most 304 tubing these days has the dual designation of 304/304L.

Practically speaking, there are overlapping applications of 304 and 321 stainless in header construction, but knowing you've got the insurance of the aircraft-grade 321 for the job is definitely worth consideration of the extra cost... if your application requires it.

Stainless steels come in both tubing and pipe sizes. Since certain pipe sizes are almost identical in dimension to tubing sizes, pipe may sometimes be substituted for tubing, and vice versa. Numerous wall thicknesses are available, but for headers, normally .049" (18-gauge) to .065" (16-gauge) is used.

Different specifications are used to meet particular requirements for the military (MIL), the American Society of Testing Materials (ASTM), and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). Examples of what to look for when you order stainless tubing are as follows:

ASTM A-554 304 stainless is a welded mechanical tubing used primarily for ornamental purposes. It is not fully annealed and is work-hardened slightly in manufacturing. It has good column strength and good bendability.

ASTM A-269 304 stainless is a general service commercial specification that is higher quality and is fully annealed for better ductility. It is available in both welded seam and seamless, and is a good spec for the racer to use. We have not seen any difference in longevity between welded seam and seamless stainless tubing in header use, but there is a substantial cost difference. The column strength is not as good as A-554, but it has excellent bendability with a higher cost due to the full annealing.

MIL-T-8808/8606\MIL-T-6737 321 stainless are military specifications for aircraft tubing. Suffice it to say that some MIL-specs are not necessarily better or even as good as some ASTM standards. There is no particular magic here.

There are as many uses for stainless steel as there are projects in the shop. There is nothing else that transmits an image of quality and skill to the majority of fabricators than a cleanly constructed stainless steel project. Whether it is a set of headers, intake stacks, or even a stand for one's dyno engine cooling fan, stainless steel has such great mechanical properties that its use should be considered for many projects beyond exhaust systems
.Material Properties
Aluminum 6061-T6
Aluminum 6061-T0
Mild Steel 1010 CREW
304 Stainless Annealed ASTM A269
321 Stainless Annealed
Titanium Cp2 Grade 2 ASTM B 338
Inconel 625

Tensile Strength
lb/in2 (70 F)
45,000
18,000
55,000
85,000
90,000
50,000
140,000

Yield Strength
lb/in2 (70 F)
40,000
8,000
40,000
35,000
35,000
40,000
77,000

Elongation
percent
12
25
20
55
55
20
47

Density
lb/in2
0.098
0.098
0.283
0.290
0.290
0.163
0.305

Modulus of Elasticity
x 106 lb/in2
10
10
29.5
28
28
15
30

Coefficient of Thermal Expansion
in/in-F x 106
( 70 F )
13.1
13.1
7.228
9.9
9.6
4.8
5.5

Coefficient of Thermal Conductivity
BTU/ft-hr-F
( 70 F )
96.50
104.00
26.98
9.40
9.30
12.00
5.65


And now about headers


Before we delve into the dark art of exhaust theory, let's take a quick journey through the exhaust system from the perspective of the exhaust gases.

As the piston approaches top dead center, the spark plug fires igniting a fireball just as the piston rocks over into the power stroke. The piston transfers the energy of the expanding gases to the crankshaft as the exhaust valve starts to open in the last part of the power stroke. The gas pressure is still high (70 to 90 p.s.i.) causing a rapid escape of the gases (blowdown). A pressure wave is generated as the valve continues to open. Gases can flow at an average speed of over 350 ft/sec, but the pressure wave travels at the speed of sound (and is dependent on gas temperature). Expanding exhaust gases rush into the port and down the primary header pipe. At the end of the pipe, the gases and waves converge at the collector. In the collector, the gases expand quickly as the waves propagate into all of the available orifices including the other primary tubes. The gases and some of the wave energy flow into the collector outlet and out the tail pipe.

Based on the above visualization, two basic phenomenon are at work in the exhaust system: gas particle movement and pressure wave activity. The absolute pressure differential between the cylinder and the atmosphere determines gas particle speed. As the gases travel down the pipe and expand, the speed decreases. The pressure waves, on the other hand, base their speed on the speed of sound. While the wave speed also decreases as they travel down the pipe due to gas cooling, the speed will increase again as the wave is reflected back up the pipe towards the cylinder. At all times, the speed of the wave action is much greater than the speed of the gas particles. Waves behave much differently than gas particles when a junction is encountered in the pipe. When two or more pipes come together, as in a collector for example, the waves travel into all of the available pipes - backwards as well as forwards. Waves are also reflected back up the original pipe, but with a negative pressure. The strength of the wave reflection is based on the area change compared to the area of the originating pipe.

This reflecting, negative pulse energy is the basis of wave action tuning. The basic idea is to time the negative wave pulse reflection to coincide with the period of overlap - this low pressure helps to pull in a fresh intake charge as the intake valve is opening and helps to remove the residual exhaust gases before the exhaust valve closes. Typically this phenomenon is controlled by the length of the primary header pipe. Due to the 'critical timing' aspect of this tuning technique, there may be parts of the power curve where more harm than good is done.

Gas speed is a double edged sword as well, too much gas speed indicates that that the system may be too restrictive hurting top end power, while too little gas speed tends to make the power curve excessively 'peaky' hurting low end torque. Larger diameter tubes allow the gases to expand; this cools the gases, slowing down both the gases and the waves.

Exhaust system design is a balancing act between all of these complex events and their timing. Even with the best compromise of exhaust pipe diameter and length, the collector outlet sizing can make or