You are currently viewing our community as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our Member Supported community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos, content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "How does one "beef up" the weak Tundra front diff?", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
How does one "beef up" the weak Tundra front diff?
I've read many posts about the front open diff of the Tundra being quite weak.
I was looking for various recommendations on making this a less likely piece to break. There is give and take of each, and I may be missing some. How bout some advice from the seasoned front diff experts.
1) SAS
Pros: Strong, great for wheeling, articulation, etc
Cons: Costly, no warantee parts left in the front
2) Lockright
Pros: Fairly inexpensive, LOCKING DIFF
Cons: LOCKING DIFF (not always great on front diff)
3) LSD
Is this possible? Are there benefits?
4) ARB Air Locker
No real info on this. Will the diff still be open and prone to damage when not locked? Is it stronger when locked? Total cost can be higher (locker, compressor, etc). But one can get onboard airup system (feature I like).
5) Other selectable locker, (OEM or even 05 Tacoma swap)
Again no info
6) Place any other possibilities here
__________________
"A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...
but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Darn...that was fun!"
What some may state the first weak point in the front diff would be the spider gears. Replace those and you'll be better off. SAS is definitely the most costly option. The least would be the Lockright locker. Lockright with manual hubs would be idea. LSD, I don't think is an option for the 7.5" front toy diffs. ARB selectable locker would also be a good upgrade to beef up the front end.
However, IMO, I like the lockright and manual hubs better. No need to worry about leaky air lines, spending money on costly install(regearing and install of the ARB unless, you know how to do it yourself). Plus, you can lift the front end a bit higher without worrying about the CV(but then you have to worry about ball joints, remedy, TC UCA's).
I've read many posts about the front open diff of the Tundra being quite weak.
I was looking for various recommendations on making this a less likely piece to break. There is give and take of each, and I may be missing some. How bout some advice from the seasoned front diff experts.
1) SAS
Pros: Strong, great for wheeling, articulation, etc
Cons: Costly, no warantee parts left in the front
2) Lockright
Pros: Fairly inexpensive, LOCKING DIFF
Cons: LOCKING DIFF (not always great on front diff)
3) LSD
Is this possible? Are there benefits?
4) ARB Air Locker
No real info on this. Will the diff still be open and prone to damage when not locked? Is it stronger when locked? Total cost can be higher (locker, compressor, etc). But one can get onboard airup system (feature I like).
5) Other selectable locker, (OEM or even 05 Tacoma swap)
Again no info
6) Place any other possibilities here
Look at my pics for shots of what happens when spider gears go bad. I have essentially been through two sets. So far the Lock Right front has been awesome to me. Install instructions in my sig, if yer curious.
My choices would be:
1. With unlimited funds-SAS
2. Slightly less funds-Some sort of locker AND manual hubs. Keep a spare half shaft in the back while 'wheeling for a quick swap. Only issue is you'll still have the stock CVs and although I have not destroyed these yet while 'wheeling, I feel it's not a matter of if--but when.
3. I heard from the local diff shop that ARBs are still prone to failure in our front ends as they do use the OEM spider gears. I have not confirmed this myself. Only difference is a locking collar, but I am done with these spider gears--they are garbage. Also, when open they would not be more prone to failure as they are not spinning the shafts, but freewheeling. When locked, you are relying on the strength of the front spiders.
4. You could also consider a Long Travel Kit for a beefier front setup, but you will retain the stock 7.5 diff which will need some beefing up and you'll have a wider track up front than in the rear. This is also a pretty costly option.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
From ARB's site, how cool that they show a 7.5" Toy front!!! Guess they've been there, done that... Toyota 7.5" IFS Air Locker, shown with OEM crown wheel & bearing
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
Getting a different flavor of spiders is one half of the issue. You still will have CVs that will be prone to breakage. Id rather blow a CV than a spider gears tho.
The best way to beef up the stock diff- Dont spin the fronts any more than you have to. If need be suck it up and get a pull or winch out rather than giving it the hammer. I saw and HEARD Herbs front go out on the Deer Valley trail.
__________________
-------------------------
Got a question 'bout TS.com? You'll probably find your answer HERE!
Looking for an answer to your Tundra, Sequoia, Tacoma, Highlander, or 4Runner question? Try HERE!
Ponsie and I remember hearing that and we were about 50 yards up the trail. It definitley did not sound pretty.
Dyogi, do you remember that guy from my first Hollister trip (Glenn-I think) His diff (and Derryl's went without a sound) Mine made a loud slam, and then it sounded like metal being ground up....
So, the list of people I know--so far that have fragged their diffs:
Glenn
Herb
Derryl
Me (twice technically)
And that's just in the Norcal crew. Didn't Jonathan (JJC) frag his also?
Also, to echo Tedd's point. I think different spider gears are part the issue. The second set of OEM spider gears (your old ones) that I have (Tedd's seen them) seem to have differing densities of metal. Almost as if the fracture of the gear happened along a 'fault line' that was destined to fail. Perhaps they could be made of stouter metal...but that might cost $.30 more....
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
SAS - unlimited funds is right, my unlimited funds are quickly becoming limited !
ARB - If you break that before your CV's - congrats, you are definetly talented . An ARB replaces the stock carrier, including those stupid spider gears. I would also recommend changing the factory ring and pinion out to an aftermarket product, in all of their infinite wisdom the Toyota engineering group failed to realize that the Tundra does indeed weight more than a 1974 Toyota mini truck and therefore should have a heavier duty drive train . I skipped breaking the spiders and went directly with the option of snapping the pinion shaft. Leaks are really not an issue if you install the sytem with care and use the appropriate air lines - I use a S.S. braided line with AN fittings up front and have has zero leaks (air leaks are not a real good argument anymore, it was usually the dipshits that didn't know how to use nylon wire ties and let their little blue hoses hang down waiting to get snagged that cried about leaks, I have personally witnessed this phenomenon on a few occasions!)
Manual Hubs - A "must have" if you are planning on sticking with IFS and using your ride offroad for any moderate trails, they save your CV boots and also still allow you drive home if you happen to grenade a CV joint.
No-Slip / Lockrite - I have tried on several occasions to break these "lunch box" lockers, had a lockright in the front of my 6,000# '74 Bronco with 35's and 300+ HP and couldn't do it (did manage to break several chromoly front shafts, frame, T-case gears, etc.). Currently a No-Slip in the rear of the Tundra I have been trying to break it so I have an excuse to throw an ARB back there, but haven't been successful yet .
__________________
2001 TRD 4x4 with a lift kit & a bone stock 2008 TRD 4x4
I was looking on ARB site and saw the front diff option for "Up To 2004" is 7.5" and "2004 and up" is 8". Does this mean the 2004 DC I have is a "little" bit stronger? Or is the info here off?
If it is true, then ARB does not have a front locker for the 2004 DC *YET* (says 2005).
__________________
"A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...
but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Darn...that was fun!"
How does one "beef up" the weak Tundra front diff?
Toyota 7.5" IFS Air Locker, shown with OEM crown wheel & bearing
!
. An ARB replaces the stock carrier, including those stupid spider gears. I would also recommend changing the factory ring and pinion out to an aftermarket product, in all of their infinite wisdom the Toyota engineering group failed to realize that the Tundra does indeed weight more than a 1974 Toyota mini truck and therefore should have a heavier duty drive train 
. I skipped breaking the spiders and went directly with the option of snapping the pinion shaft. Leaks are really not an issue if you install the sytem with care and use the appropriate air lines - I use a S.S. braided line with AN fittings up front and have has zero leaks (air leaks are not a real good argument anymore, it was usually the dipshits that didn't know how to use nylon wire ties and let their little blue hoses hang down waiting to get snagged that cried about leaks, I have personally witnessed this phenomenon on a few occasions!)
Linear Mode