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This is a discussion thread titled "Tacoma: Tacoma Differential Q & A or Comments", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.


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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2004, 10:56 AM
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Thanks for the post BruceTS. That was awesome.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2004, 10:59 AM
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how does the abs deactivation work?

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Tundra Offroad Technical FAQ Index
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2004, 11:08 PM
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I never got around to checking out that circuit, but none of the lines from the locker ECU lead directly to the ABS system. At the time my only concern was the actual E-locker breakdown.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2004, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceTS
The e-locker will only engage if your going below 5 mph and in 4WDL, by doing the mod you can engage it in any mode. Just don't disable the 5mph feature, try not to engage you locker on dry pavement and only stay locked long enough to get unstuck.

The locker is slow to engage, first the light will flash, once it goes solid your locked, sometimes it helps to be travelling slow or in a very slight turn for it to lock quicker, same goes when it comes to unlocking. Engage your locker every once in a while, to insure that corrosion hasn't gummed up the works.
question... i switch on the e-locker and the light keeps on blinking. Is there something i'm doing wrong or my e-lock is jammed?
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2004, 09:52 PM
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Do you have your truck in 4WL?

Check your fuses, if they are fine, then check the wiring from the locker motor to the frame, I just had to repair mine. Somehow I picked up something that cut the wiring harness. If the wiring is ok, then you need to see if power is getting to the e-locker ECU. Pin #5 on the plug should be black/yellow or black/white, with the key on, see if there is power at that connection. If so, check the green/yellow wire pin #4; e-locker switch off = no power, on = power also you'll hear a clicking noise from the box, which is a solenoid engaging. If you hear this noise check the light green wire pin #3 for power; this is power going to the e-locker motor to engage. If so check the light green/red wire pin #2 to see if it is grounded. If so, your ECU is ok, now you need to see if actual power(switch on) is getting to the e-locker at the axle. Check the green wire at both connectors, frame and locker motor to see if you got power, if not then the problem is somewhere in the wiring harness. If power is going to the motor then you'll need to remove the assembly and check it out.

If the switch in the E-locker that tells the ECU which relay to activate, doesn't close it's connection properly this will prevent the system from working. Pin #9 should be grounded if the switch is working properly, if it's not, you can try grounding this lead to see if it activates relay 1 in the ECU, this sometime will jump start the system and fix the problem.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2004, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceTS
Do you have your truck in 4WL?

Check your fuses, if they are fine, then check the wiring from the locker motor to the frame, I just had to repair mine. Somehow I picked up something that cut the wiring harness. If the wiring is ok, then you need to see if power is getting to the e-locker ECU. Pin #5 on the plug should be black/yellow or black/white, with the key on, see if there is power at that connection. If so, check the green/yellow wire pin #4; e-locker switch off = no power, on = power also you'll hear a clicking noise from the box, which is a solenoid engaging. If you hear this noise check the light green wire pin #3 for power; this is power going to the e-locker motor to engage. If so check the light green/red wire pin #2 to see if it is grounded. If so, your ECU is ok, now you need to see if actual power(switch on) is getting to the e-locker at the axle. Check the green wire at both connectors, frame and locker motor to see if you got power, if not then the problem is somewhere in the wiring harness. If power is going to the motor then you'll need to remove the assembly and check it out.

If the switch in the E-locker that tells the ECU which relay to activate, doesn't close it's connection properly this will prevent the system from working. Pin #9 should be grounded if the switch is working properly, if it's not, you can try grounding this lead to see if it activates relay 1 in the ECU, this sometime will jump start the system and fix the problem.
thank you bruce but my truck only have 2k on it. it is a 04 extra cab. i tried both ways. non-4wl and 4wl. the different in them is. 4wl, the blink goes slower. and the 4wl the blink is hyper. well not hyper fast but it is different if i switch it to 4wl.

i will tackle it tomorrow on checking if my fuse and wires is damage. thank you
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2004, 07:25 AM
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You need to be in 4WL and driving under 5 mph, then press the switch and try moving in a slight turn, if it don't engage, take it to the dealer, since it should be under warrantee.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2004, 06:49 PM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceTS
You need to be in 4WL and driving under 5 mph, then press the switch and try moving in a slight turn, if it don't engage, take it to the dealer, since it should be under warrantee.
thank you bruce. got it to work now.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2004, 12:35 AM
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Talking Confirming The Locker is Engaged

Something that I like to do to confirm that the locker is locked is to goose it and do a couple doughnuts to the left and then a couple to the right. Sometimes it is necessary to add a couple figure eights for good measure.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2004, 12:37 AM
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I forgot to mention that the grey wire mod and 4H really helps with this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by freddys27
Something that I like to do to confirm that the locker is locked is to goose it and do a couple doughnuts to the left and then a couple to the right. Sometimes it is necessary to add a couple figure eights for good measure.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2004, 07:16 PM
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gotcha... thank you for the tips
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2004, 02:06 PM
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Default Locking Differential

I have a 2000 Tacoma TRD w/ 29000 miles. I tried engageing The "rr diff lock" per the owners manual and all I get is the "diff lock" light on the dash to blink. Any ideas?
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2004, 07:44 PM
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try putting it in 4WD low range then drive under 5mph in a slight turn...
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2004, 11:49 AM
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Thanks turning the whells did the trick.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2004, 05:28 PM
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Default 2005 Differential Options

Does anyone have a clear breakdown of the differential choices available on the new Tacoma? I know the TRD offroad pkg. includes the electric locker (as in previous years). And the TRD sport pkg. and several of the SR5 pkgs. list a Limited Slip Differential as included, which I assume is a standard disc-based LSD. But, the quick reference guide that comes with the truck shows a button that toggles the "Auto LSD", which I assume is different than both the standard LSD and the e-locker. But I don't see this available on any packages?

The reason I ask is because I just bought a D-cab 4x4 SR5 #8 yesterday, which includes a "Limited Slip Differential." I definitely don't have a buttons to control the LSD. I really wanted the TRD e-locker but you can't get that with the longbed. So now I'm trying to figure out if I can retrofit the e-locker onto my truck in the future.

-Chris
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