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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "JBA Header install", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I am planning on doing a JBA Header install this weekend and I was wondering if there is anyone out there that has done this before and can give me some pointers.
It doesn’t sound like a tough job but If there are going to be problems I would like to know beforehand.
I ran across your post from last May re installing JBA headers:
Quote:
Originally posted by 1badtrd I am planning on doing a JBA Header install this weekend and I was wondering if there is anyone out there that has done this before and can give me some pointers.
It doesn’t sound like a tough job but If there are going to be problems I would like to know beforehand.
Thanks in advance!
I'm thinking about purchasing and installing a set on my 02 Tundra. I'd love to hear your experience both regarding installation and any performance gains. Some comments I've read from other threads:
"I just got my JBAs on and they are great even though putting them in is a pain in the *** but I think it is worse for the TRDs. JBAs add 12hp and 21 lb of torque to the rear wheel and they give you a better low end punch(90 ft/lb gain at 2700rpm). I think the JBAs are the way to go and the few hundred bucks you save you can get them coated. Good luck."
...
"I did the JBA's and Borla rear exit duals. Bad ***!!! I did have trouble with the driver side flange nuts. I had to shear them off with pure torque. The headers are tricky to get bolted on. You need 2 people."
Thanks for any first hand feedback you can provide...
Seee-ya!
Jim.
__________________ Base: '02 Tundra SR5 Imperial Jade Mica 4WD w/ TRD Off-Road, EVP Convenience & Tow Packages, Oak Interior & Captains Chairs, 6 Speaker/6-Disk CD, VIP 3K, Chrome Wheel Locks, & Anti-lock Brakes with DRL Mods: K&N FIPK II, Ram Air Performance System (RAPS), Unichip, Ivan Stewart Flares and TRD Grille, 2" Cornfed Front Suspension Lift (How-To Guide), BFG A/T 265/75's, Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar (How-To Guide), JBA Headers & 2" Highflow Y-Pipe, 2.5" Exhaust Cutout with QuickTime Performance Electric Cutout (QTEC), Flowmaster 50 Series™ Delta Flow® Performance Muffler with Dual 2.5" x 18" Chrome Tips, ASP Racing Underdrive Pulley, PPD Billet Goodies, Rhino Liner, Tinted-windows, etc. Planned: My Tundra is done for now. Next up: Build new 400ci for my '69 Pontiac Custom S
Getting to the center nuts can be difficult. 5 minutes to undo the motor mounts and raising the engine a couple inches made it a lot easier; saving 30-40 minutes of frustration and skinned knuckles.
Recommend spraying all bolts w/Liquid Wrench the night before; will help loosen them up.
Another thing that would help; use this installation to get a set of Sears new 5º ratcheting wrenches.
Don't forget to re-install w/Anti-Sieze.
Double nut or get locking nuts for the header to flange bolts.
Believe the JBA install said 5-6 hours for a professional installer. Sounds about right; with lunch and breaks thrown in and the difficulty of removing the original bolts/nuts.
Originally posted by 1badtrd I am planning on doing a JBA Header install this weekend and I was wondering if there is anyone out there that has done this before and can give me some pointers.
It doesn’t sound like a tough job but If there are going to be problems I would like to know beforehand.
Thanks in advance!
It's been 7 months since your post. Did you get them on yet? How do you like it? Any leaks so far? Did you feel any difference?
I put mine on without the "two people." I maybe could have used someone else to keep handing me different 14mm sockets and wrenches until I got one to fit those center nuts on the driver's side! I managed to do mine through the motor mount without jacking up the engine. Just getting the heat shields off was pretty tough. I twisted off a couple of studs on the old manifold flanges and broke one 3/8" drive deep 14mm socket in the process. Use only 6 point sockets for this job and a 3/8" drive semi-deep 14mm would come in handy for the head attaching nuts if you can find one.
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!
- I see the headers are #409 stainless steel, so I assume you had them ceramic coated. (I checked out your pics.) Where do you have this done (muffler shops?) and what is a reasonable price to pay?
- Can you use the stock O2 sensor? I saw your pic of the welded nut on the header, so can I assume the stock O2 sensor just screws right it?
- If you had the K&N FIPK installed prior to the JBAs, did you notice a performace gain once the JBA's were installed?
Note: I have the FIPK now and I'm thiniking now that I've added more air on the intake, I need to expel more air out the exhaust to really feel the true benefit. Despite what others have said on other threads, I do feel a benefit w/ the FIPK at the top end. However, I'm looking for hard facts, details and personal experience - not word of mouth - to come to a conclusion.
Both:
- What type of "seat of the pants" performance gains did you guys experience? Can we assume adding the JBAs is both worth the cost and the time/effort of installing them?
Thanks again for sharing your experiences...
Seee-ya!
Jim.
__________________ Base: '02 Tundra SR5 Imperial Jade Mica 4WD w/ TRD Off-Road, EVP Convenience & Tow Packages, Oak Interior & Captains Chairs, 6 Speaker/6-Disk CD, VIP 3K, Chrome Wheel Locks, & Anti-lock Brakes with DRL Mods: K&N FIPK II, Ram Air Performance System (RAPS), Unichip, Ivan Stewart Flares and TRD Grille, 2" Cornfed Front Suspension Lift (How-To Guide), BFG A/T 265/75's, Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar (How-To Guide), JBA Headers & 2" Highflow Y-Pipe, 2.5" Exhaust Cutout with QuickTime Performance Electric Cutout (QTEC), Flowmaster 50 Series™ Delta Flow® Performance Muffler with Dual 2.5" x 18" Chrome Tips, ASP Racing Underdrive Pulley, PPD Billet Goodies, Rhino Liner, Tinted-windows, etc. Planned: My Tundra is done for now. Next up: Build new 400ci for my '69 Pontiac Custom S
Your FIPK will show no benefit, in fact, it has been shown to decrease your power as opposed to the stock air filter/box setup. The tundra engine cannot take advantage of more air at the intake until several other engine pieces are modified or changed.
Originally posted by thekurgan Your FIPK will show no benefit, in fact, it has been shown to decrease your power as opposed to the stock air filter/box setup. The tundra engine cannot take advantage of more air at the intake until several other engine pieces are modified or changed.
Thanks for the reply..
Yeah, I've heard that on many threads, however I'm looking for details. e.g You said "The tundra engine cannot take advantage of more air at the intake until several other engine pieces are modified or changed".
Can you elbaorate on what these other engine pieces are? You don't have to provide a ton of detail, just some facts so we can search/read on the other forums.
Hard facts and personal experience is what I'm after and what I believe others on this forum will benefit from.
Thanks again!
Seee-ya,
Jim.
__________________ Base: '02 Tundra SR5 Imperial Jade Mica 4WD w/ TRD Off-Road, EVP Convenience & Tow Packages, Oak Interior & Captains Chairs, 6 Speaker/6-Disk CD, VIP 3K, Chrome Wheel Locks, & Anti-lock Brakes with DRL Mods: K&N FIPK II, Ram Air Performance System (RAPS), Unichip, Ivan Stewart Flares and TRD Grille, 2" Cornfed Front Suspension Lift (How-To Guide), BFG A/T 265/75's, Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar (How-To Guide), JBA Headers & 2" Highflow Y-Pipe, 2.5" Exhaust Cutout with QuickTime Performance Electric Cutout (QTEC), Flowmaster 50 Series™ Delta Flow® Performance Muffler with Dual 2.5" x 18" Chrome Tips, ASP Racing Underdrive Pulley, PPD Billet Goodies, Rhino Liner, Tinted-windows, etc. Planned: My Tundra is done for now. Next up: Build new 400ci for my '69 Pontiac Custom S
I think hovismo had some great detail on a dyno test done by another T.S. member. Basically, you can add a great intake but to really take advantage, the engine heads must be either replaced/modified (ie, ported :-), the cams (4) must be changed to include either increased duration or lift or both, the intake manifold must be modified/replaced, the fuel injectors must be replaced with high-flow types, the fuel pump must be replaced with a high-flow, headers (looks like you got that covered), did I miss anything? Maybe some of the EGR type stuff? O2 sensors (4)? Then when you add all this power/torque, you'll have to keep an eye on your transmission, driveline, rear end as it wasn't designed from 'Yota for the added power/torque. Someone prove me wrong, please... this ideology goes back to muscle car -era tweaks and it really doesn't change for a normally-aspirated engine.
Jim:
1) Bought the headers already coated from JBA. Think it was about a "C" note.
2) Re-installed the original O2 sensors.
3) Yes I had installed the FIPK before the headers.
"Seat-of-the-Pants": Gain noticeable about 2500. More responsive and seems to pull stronger throughout the mid to upper range. Power band seems very strong from 2500-4000. Rolling starts are much stronger
I got the JBA's and installed them myself. install wasn't too tuff, I was able to put a torque wrench on all but two bolts. I didn't jack up the motor. Remember to retorqu the bolts the next two times you change the opil, alot of people forget yo uhave to do this and it causes problems later on. mine have been doing great. HIGHLY recommended. Id say if your an amature, budget a day. If you think your're better than that, a good night working on it outta get it. Good tip on the WD-40.