you won't get any performance out of the K&N filter drop in....If I were you I would put in other filters like the normal paper back in or the new true-flow filter...the K&N will get dirty sooner and I wouldn't want to oil clean it and get my MAF sensor clogged up...you'll know what I mean there are quite a bit of members here that had MAF sensor clogged after reoiling the filter..stick with the stock...
the factory filter, flows just as well. i installed a K&N, did not see any diff. sorry to but in.
Yeah, feels the same. If there is a difference, then maybe it would be in the numbers somewhere.. but I feel like the truck is just as strong as before I put it in.
the K&N will get dirty sooner and I wouldn't want to oil clean it and get my MAF sensor clogged up...you'll know what I mean there are quite a bit of members here that had MAF sensor clogged after reoiling the filter..stick with the stock...
I have been running a TRD filter, which is basically the same as the K&N, in my '01 tundra for the last 60k miles. I have not had any issues or problems.
I have been running a TRD filter, which is basically the same as the K&N, in my '01 tundra for the last 60k miles. I have not had any issues or problems.
what I actually ment was that if you overoil that K&N you'll eventually run in to problems later on...as long as you preoil them the right way...
other than that paper filter is better out of those 2 filters TRD & K&N...just my 2 cents..
anyone interested on getting an AEM intake system...go to personal classifieds parts area...someone is selling it for $150+ shipping!!!!!<<< fits 00-04 Tundra models....
anyone interested on getting an AEM intake system...go to personal classifieds parts area...someone is selling it for $150+ shipping!!!!!<<< fits 00-04 Tundra models....
No offense but you REALLY should do a search on K&N and/or Cold air intakes here at TS. From all I've read the cold intakes should really be called HOT air intakes (unless you mod further) as it draws hotter air from the engine bay then from the fender area. And the K&N does flow more air (as well as dirt) but unless your MAF can calculate the increased flow it's useless. You can search on some of my posts as I had a drop in on my old Exploder and my Corolla. 1st Oil analysis on the Corolla came back with a "Do you have a K&N or similiar installed? Your silicon/ dirt levels are extremely high." I replaced with stock and ithat part dropped significantly on future tests. I also noticed no difference on the Corolla with it installed. On the Exploder I noticed a difference in performance (by butt-o-meter) and it also helped identify a carbon buildup problem. Truck was PINGING like crazy because of a dirty (K&N filter oil contaminated) mass air flow sensor not being able to read increased air flow. Truck was running very lean as a result and the carbon buildup made it ignite very early. Cleaned the MAF, got motor de-carbonized, replaced with paper filter and it ran great. Save your $$ and prevent the dirt from getting in your motor increasing wear. Go with the factory air filter.
OK, maybe I'm dating myself also a bit with this and maybe it's not as relavent because our trucks are fuel injected. In college I had an '83 Honda Civic that I drove for many years. For 2 years in fall/winter/spring I had a problem that the car would die driving through the Adirondacks. It appeared to be either a fuel flooding or starvation issue. Car ran great for four hours of my trip then would just start to bog down and eventually stall. Check everything, no problems, car starts right up and runs 30-45 minutes and does it again. Next weekend no problems etc. Totally intermittent problem. Finally came to realize it only happened on damp days below 40 degrees F. Wires, cap, rotor, fuel and air filters all new and good. After many conversations with mechanics etc., diagnoses was a faulty vacuum air temperature sensor inside air filter housing. It's job was to divert vacuum so that the flap door on the filter housing would close and force the car to draw WARMER air from the area by exhaust manifold. Since it was not working what I had was COLD DAMP air that swirl around the carburetor intake and freeze with the increased velocity and ice over all the jets. As soon as the car shut off, heat from the motor would melt the ice with zero evidence and car started right up. I replaced 5 of those sensors before saying F it and just bypassing it for the winter. 1 inline vacuum fitting, 30 second fix, for zero headache all winter. In the late spring return to normal.
Ahhh, the old days, actually forcing a motor to draw warm air so it runs better and warms up faster.
what I actually ment was that if you overoil that K&N you'll eventually run in to problems later on...as long as you preoil them the right way...
other than that paper filter is better out of those 2 filters TRD & K&N...just my 2 cents..
if people wouldn't over oil there filter they wouldn't have the problems they keep complaining about.i've used them in every vehicle i've owned and even if you don't get a big performance gain at least you don't have to change it so often clean every 50k or so and your done one filter for life of vehicle.nuff said