You are currently viewing our community as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our Member Supported community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos, content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "transmission drain plug is stripped, pan threads bad as well.", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
transmission drain plug is stripped, pan threads bad as well.
.........2002, tundra, v8, automatic......
basically, how do you recommend recovering from this situation? i tried new plug, but since pan side threads are bad, thats a no go.
i could tap out new threads, some people recommend this, some do not.
i could buy a new pan, but there are some risks involved there as well (especially since toyota doesn't use a true gasket but uses an RTV type of material).
those of you with transmission experience, please give me your suggestions.
fyi, have any of you tried a fumoto engine oil plug as a quick drain transmission plug?
.........2002, tundra, v8, automatic......
basically, how do you recommend recovering from this situation? i tried new plug, but since pan side threads are bad, thats a no go.
i could tap out new threads, some people recommend this, some do not.
i could buy a new pan, but there are some risks involved there as well (especially since toyota doesn't use a true gasket but uses an RTV type of material).
those of you with transmission experience, please give me your suggestions.
fyi, have any of you tried a fumoto engine oil plug as a quick drain transmission plug?
I would re thread it with & put in a new slightly larger plug - first
If that doesn't work - then drop the pan & put a new pan on-
THe RTV/ FIPG is not really the issue- you just need to make sure you don;t overtorque the bolts- and bolt in a proper pattern if necessary.
I think you should pull the pan. Even if you are going to tap and install either the original size plug or larger, where are the chips from the tapping process going to go? Will any end up in the pan if this is done with the pan installed? I am not an automatic transmission expert at all, but if this happened to me I would remove the pan, even though that has it's own risks. At least if you end up with a leak at the pan "gasket" you will be able to see it.
basically, how do you recommend recovering from this situation? i tried new plug, but since pan side threads are bad, thats a no go.
i could tap out new threads, some people recommend this, some do not.
i could buy a new pan, but there are some risks involved there as well (especially since toyota doesn't use a true gasket but uses an RTV type of material).
those of you with transmission experience, please give me your suggestions.
fyi, have any of you tried a fumoto engine oil plug as a quick drain transmission plug?
I havent paid attention to what material the pan is made out of, but i assume it is steel, not alluminum. Lets assume its steel.
If it were my truck, id pull the pan drill out the hole. Then id weld in an 02 sensor bung (18x1.5) using an accompanying 02 plug with a hex.
Buying a new pan will be expensive. Its your truck though.
__________________
Mods: Donahoe TCF coilovers, TC upper arms, rear Bilstein 5100s, Downey headers, 3" exhaust with Spintech Prostreet, BFG MT 285-70-17s on Helo Maxx 6 Chrome, Electric Brake controller. Tsunami RCA converter, PIE AUX adapter, LA Sound amp, MTX 10" band pass sub.
the pan is less than $100, my concern with pulling it comes from the fact there is no true gasket just that rtv junk and in the process of re-installing if any of that gets squeezed into the inside of the pan, then its in the transmission. since these transmissions only have a corse steel mesh as a "transmission filter", those rtv pieces really will enter the transmission.
for taping, i believe the process is insert just a little, remove and clean, insert a little more, remove and clean, etc. towards the end of the process, i guess some metal could enter the pan, but there is a magnent (actually i think 3-4 magnents) inside the pan for the exact purpose of traping metal shavings, isn't there?
my current leaning is to tap, then use something like a fumoto valve applying thread lock, that way i never have to worry about this again. i believe the transmission drain plug on 2002 tundras is a 10mm x 1.5. i have contacted fumoto to see if they have a valve like this.
Your can magnetize the tap...wrap it in several turns of heavy wire; touch one end of one wire to your battery + post and the other end of the wire to the - post.
I've magnetized drill bits when I couldn't allow the chips to fall into the hole. Steel or iron base metal, of course.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
the pan is less than $100, my concern with pulling it comes from the fact there is no true gasket just that rtv junk and in the process of re-installing if any of that gets squeezed into the inside of the pan, then its in the transmission. since these transmissions only have a corse steel mesh as a "transmission filter", those rtv pieces really will enter the transmission.
.
If your really worried about it, just let the RTV sit on the pan for 10 min before you bolt it up. Better yet, use the TOYOTA black silicone. That stuff dries fast!
Toyota intended for the pan to be replaceable and resealable.
__________________
Mods: Donahoe TCF coilovers, TC upper arms, rear Bilstein 5100s, Downey headers, 3" exhaust with Spintech Prostreet, BFG MT 285-70-17s on Helo Maxx 6 Chrome, Electric Brake controller. Tsunami RCA converter, PIE AUX adapter, LA Sound amp, MTX 10" band pass sub.
If your really worried about it, just let the RTV sit on the pan for 10 min before you bolt it up. Better yet, use the TOYOTA black silicone. That stuff dries fast!
Toyota intended for the pan to be replaceable and resealable.
well i did ask toyota about the stuff they use and its $10-$15 a tube, pretty damn expensive, but i suppose i can use it.
TundraSolutions.com is a registered trademark of Tundra Solutions, Inc.
Other trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the TundraSolutions.com User Agreement and Privacy Policy.