same here. I have been using fram or the cheapest filter when I change my oil and have never had problems with my engines using oil or needing motor overhauls. My last car was a bmw with 225,000 miles and never used any oil or smoked. I do change my oil every 5000 miles though.
same here. I have been using fram or the cheapest filter when I change my oil and have never had problems with my engines using oil or needing motor overhauls. My last car was a bmw with 225,000 miles and never used any oil or smoked. I do change my oil every 5000 miles though.
The rubber gasket has a tendency of coming apart from the filter. I purchased FRAM doubleguard brand when I replaced the oil on my Toyota Sequoia. Upon starting the truck, I discovered that I was leaking oil on the driveway. The leak was not noticeable until I started the vehicle. If you folks are going to continue using FRAM filters, ensure to check for leaks. I purchased a FUMOTO valve from Fumotovalve.com ($20.00). It made the process of changing oil easy also on my case I don't have to drain all the oil to replaced the oil filter.
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2006 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 CTD SRW 4x4 13,600 miles
2005 Toyota Camry XLE 33,00 miles
2002 Toyota Sequoia 2wd Limited. 90,000 miles.
2002 Suzuki Katana 15,500 miles motorcycle
2001 Toyota Avalon XLS. 78,600 miles.
1992 Toyota Previa. 140,000 miles.
1997 Acura Integra LS 106,000 miles.
1990 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6. 110,000 miles.
I run Mobil 1 and with a fram filter I get a pronounced knock at startup. With a Toyota OEM filter not knock at startup. My understanding is the OEM filter has a stronger back backflow/stop valve (not sure if thats the right term). No other changes have been made and if I put the FRAM on it knocks at startup. And I don't think its unique to my truck.
I run Mobil 1 and with a fram filter I get a pronounced knock at startup. With a Toyota OEM filter not knock at startup. My understanding is the OEM filter has a stronger back backflow/stop valve (not sure if thats the right term). No other changes have been made and if I put the FRAM on it knocks at startup. And I don't think its unique to my truck.
It's not unique to your truck. My dad used FRAM or whatever cheap filter he could find, and his truck knocked at start up something fierce. I finally talked him into using the OEM or Purolator Pure 1 filter. No knock.
I've never used anything but Purolator Pure 1 on my Tundra. I don't know what would happen if I tried a FRAM, and I don't intend to find out.
Same deal on my Corolla. I would get a knock (and had it for years) when I started the car. I was using Fram for a long time but never new this was why. Once I read some of the info, I switched to factory and or PureOne. I now have no knock at startup. The Fram filter has cardboard end caps (the part that holds the actual filter material together) as well as what maintains pressure against the seals. Wet oil soaked cardboard is not that strong. They also have a very cheap plastic bypass valve. Spend the 2.99 and cut ANY Fram open and you'll see what I mean. I did a couple just to see and now use Factory Filters or Pure One only. On the Corolla the filter is up high on the motor and mounted sideways. What was happening was the oil would drain out and the car would have to refill the filter first. Probably not AS big an issue on our 4.7L since it mounts more vertically but I'm still not using it.
Same here, my 05 didn't have a knock when I first got it. After first oil change I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic blend oil with a FRAM oil filter, there came the knock. I dropped the oil after two thousand miles and went with full synthetic Mobil 1 with a BOSCH premium oil filter, knock disappeared. I would believe that it was the oil filter change that did it rather than the change to full synthetic oil.
I have used Hastings filters for years and have no start up knock from my '03 Tundra.
A poor anti drain back valve will let the oil drain out and that will cause the bearings to sing when first started after having set for a while. An old Ford we had at work would do that something terrible after having set over night.
I used Fram oil filters on my 89 Z-24 and changed the oil faithfully every 3,000 miles. (But not synthetic.)
Results? The engine siezed up at 102,000 and needed rebuilding. Sure, it could've been due to the GM engine (V-6) but I'll not buy a Fram ANYTHING to this day. (And I switched all my vehicles to full synthetic.)
There was a website some years back where a couple engineers bought every brand of oil filter they could get their hands on and tested them and even cut them up to see how good the filters were on the inside. Fram was one of the worse they tested. (I remember the Purolators scored neared the top.)
I used Fram oil filters on my 89 Z-24 and changed the oil faithfully every 3,000 miles. (But not synthetic.)
Results? The engine siezed up at 102,000 and needed rebuilding. Sure, it could've been due to the GM engine (V-6) but I'll not buy a Fram ANYTHING to this day. (And I switched all my vehicles to full synthetic.)
There was a website some years back where a couple engineers bought every brand of oil filter they could get their hands on and tested them and even cut them up to see how good the filters were on the inside. Fram was one of the worse they tested. (I remember the Purolators scored neared the top.)
Here is the test that I had seen. Positives are that it at least gives you some insght to filter construction. Negative is that it does not test actual filtering ability. "Logical" assumptions are that the larger filter with more surface area will filter better. This is not true, it gives you more filter area but the actual media and bypass valve would determine what it will filter i.e. actual particle size. Think a piece of regular swiss cheese vs. baby swiss. The only way to really test that would be to set them up with the same exact oil with same dirt level with some back pressure and flow meters then also oil analysis to the micron level of dirt left. Too much for me. I cut some open and I'll stick with the 2 I mentioned. The Amsoil and Mobil 1 are probably excellent but cost and availability of factory and Pure One make them best for me.
Why buy a vehicle with a multi-thousand dollar engine and skimp on filters? The money you save won't buy lunch. I think Frams high priced filters are OK, but not worth the price. You can get an equally good filter for the standard price from Purolator or WIX/NAPA-Gold. Fram also puts their same filters into cans for Pennzoil, Mobil, Defender, and other brands.
Ken
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Thought I would put in my 2 cents worth. I was a field tech for Wix filters awhile back.Fram was the worst spin on oil filter on the market.Yes it has cardboard end caps, a very weak anti drain back valve & very irregular spaced paper pleats.It's filtering factor was rated a 33 micron, which is the size of a hair on your arm. However there was no SAE measurment for microns; so their 33 micron could have been what ever size they put in their pleated paper.The start up engine knock you are refering to is caused by the weak anti drain back valve, not holding the oil in the can, like someone stated.Also some filters have a by-pass valve in the filter if required by the vehicle manufacture. It was also weak.When it malfunctions oil pressure gets too high & blows the filter off the mount.
Purolator was also not a top grade filter. It had a piece of common string wrapped around the pleated paper & very irregular pleats in the paper like fram.What do you think hot oil does to the string? They did have metal end caps& a good anti drain back valve.
Wix & napa gold are excellent filters, in oil,air
& fuel.Air & fuel are a whole
issue by themselves!
Just wanted to pass along my experiences in the field.
10 years ago, in my stupid younger years, I used the fram oil filter on my 18RG race motor on a 73 toyota corolla sprinter. I was racing at the back lanes of Travis Airforce base, Fairfield ca with a bunch of other street racers 2AM in the morning.
It was my turn to run someone with a V8 Cuda. First and second gear hook-up nice that I was a car lenght ahead of the cuda. Third gear, I felt like the tach RPM spung faster than normal and I got side ways doing 85 mph.
At 4th gear the engine felt like it was struggling to get to the end of the 1/4 mile. Beat the cuda by 1/3 car lenght
Once done and got back to park the car, I check the engine to see if there is anything loose. Guess what, I do not have any more oil filter. The filter blew off! On top of that, the cops came and run as out! Lucky, I told the cops that I was just waiting for a friend to tow my car and just happen to be there watching while I was waiting for him to tow me home
Long story short, FRAM SUCKS.
- Weak anti drain valve. More like none existance anti drain valve causing your engine to do dry starts after a period of not driving.
- Rubber gasket tend to slide off causing the filter to get loose and blow off
- Less filter element or pleats.
- My dilemma 10 years ago was a $3000.00 lesson why FRAM sucks!!!!
I've been using Fram filters forever and haven't had a problem with them. What's the big stink with Fram?!?!
I've been using Fram filters on most of my cars for over 40 years. My first cars had Fram as the original equipment. I've got a 78 Rabbit that has had nothing but Fram filters and the engine is still in good shape after 250K. Most of the older air-cooled VW's never had a filter, just a strainer screen in the sump. One thing that I have noticed is that the Fram name has been bought out by various companies over the years such as Allied Signal and more recently Honeywell. Like most companies, they are in business to make money and no doubt they have cheapened their product due to greed like everyone else, including Toyota. I've seen the pictures of the media with the holes in it and I don't like it. The filter can in the background doesn't look like a Fram though. Be aware that the new NAPA "Pro Select" and "Nascar Select" filter lines are lesser quality filters than "Napa Gold." Even though they advertise "spin flow" technology, the Napa Gold is supposed to have the higher quality fiberglas media where the Nascar Select has fiberglas and paper. The Pro Select is the same as the former Silverline filter and has paper media. Maybe the "Wix guy" can give us more details.
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I've been using Fram filters forever and haven't had a problem with them. What's the big stink with Fram?!?!
I only heard a lot of negative talk about Frams oil filter when I owned a Chevy years before I got the Tundra. Mainly do to poor construction of the filter and causing oil leeks or something to that affect. Since then I've mainly stuck to WIX oil filters with no problem even though its a few extra bucks over the price of a FRAM. Either way, I gotta make this investment(truck) last, so why not spend the extra bucks.
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2003 White Tundra Sr5 v8
-stock for now.
What's the big problem with Fram filters?
On top of that, the cops came and run as out! Lucky, I told the cops that I was just waiting for a friend to tow my car and just happen to be there watching while I was waiting for him to tow me home 
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