FOR THE MONEY, what is the best unit to add traction to our trucks? now i now this is case sensitive, for example if you live where it snows a lot...and on and on and on. i am interested in the best traction device for DRY pavement daily driver and ocasional off-road(2 times a month roughly) but i want awesome traction off road. (i personally do not want an ARB unit in my truck, used them before and they were awesome but i dont want it on this truck)
if the TRD lsd was competively priced($400) how would it stack up?
powertrax, detroit...im trying to decide which to get for my truck and all help would be great! thanks as always guys and gals.
mike
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MODS: who cares, nothing you have'nt heard already
FOR THE MONEY, what is the best unit to add traction to our trucks? .........
if the TRD lsd was competively priced($400) how would it stack up?
powertrax, detroit...im trying to decide which to get for my truck and all help would be great! thanks as always guys and gals.
mike
THe TRD lsd IS competitively priced
I added an ARB locker to my 4wd Tacoma, and also installed a TRD LSD unit in my brother's 4wd Tacoma.
For the money, I paid $199 shipped for a brand new TRD LSD from Toyota of Dallas-
So for $199, $60 bucks for a pair of new carrier bearings, new rear axle seals, & fluids - my bro is quite pleased- His truck is a daily driver and he does have to deal with snow.
My choice was to build my truck as a more offroad capable truck (hence the ARB), however, my bro will get more out of his LSD as a daily driver.
I am pretty sure Toyota of dallas (www.trdparts4u.com) has sold all of their clearance priced LSD, but I've seen another Toyota dealerships sell them for $230
For the price $200-230 - hard to beat the LSD's functionality- especially for paved road mannerisms - But you are not gonna get Awesome offroad benefits
However if you want the best bang for the buck for offroad perf- I'd go with a lockrite in the rear-
Also with the TRD you will most likely need to have the diff regeared. Since, the carrier is replaced with the TRD. That may cost another $100-$200. Unless, you or someone you know can DIY. Haven't heard too much feedback on the Detroit applications. IMO, Powertrax lockright will be the best bang for your buck and the Powertrax No-slip is more but, a bit more street friendly.
Also with the TRD you will most likely need to have the diff regeared. Since, the carrier is replaced with the TRD. That may cost another $100-$200. Unless, you or someone you know can DIY. Haven't heard too much feedback on the Detroit applications. IMO, Powertrax lockright will be the best bang for your buck and the Powertrax No-slip is more but, a bit more street friendly.
Actually, Its likely a 90-95% chance that you will NOT need to regear if you choose to recycle your stock R & P from the open diff. - You are simply removing the ring gear and putting it on the new diff-
I Measured pinion preload & backlash prior to removal of the ring gear on both instances - My Arb locker as well as my brother TRD LSD-
Trust me , I have invested quite a bit in the carrier shims - just incase reshimming was required-
Specs for both the ARB & TRD LSD must be pretty damn close to stock non-TRD Tacoma/Tundra open diff.
If you are regearing to higher/lower gear ration with new R&P, then yes you will be regearing/reshimming.
from what, I have researched from the web, dealership , not to mention personal experience- If you keep your stock gears & diff housing - Its unlikely that you will have to regear.
For my bro's LSD- we didn't even need to heat up the ring gear. Also new preload & backlash for the TRD LSD will no longer match factory specs- TRD has included new specs.
Thunder Gray Metallic
2002 REGULAR CAB - LONG BED - 4WD - V8 - SR5
TRD / Kazuma LSD made by EATON
Bilstein HD shocks
Michelin 8 ply E series radials
JBA headers
Hellwig rear bar
Line-X over the rail
2005 tail lights
OEM Door Sill protectors
TRD Off-Road front coil springs
Color matched LEER Hi-Top cap
Wet Okole Sport Seat Covers
Tinted Windows
OEM Rubber Bed Mat
OEM All-Weather mats
OEM Towing Package with Remote Transmission Cooler
grillmasterp-good info. Should help save some $$$. In that case, one should then check the contact pattern at least.
Yeah, In most cases people should not need to reshim - if they keep their orig gears
Of course I still advise to check & recheck pre & post measurements
Since the R&P are already matched with factory shims - the gear work should be minimal
So far, based off of my experience, the experience of others that have asked me for advice, and talking to parts manager of Toyota of Dallas Who has done atleast 4 installs in his home driveway- they were all straight swaps with no need for reshimming.
well since i do go offroading(more in the summer) i think the no-slip would be my best bet. summit has it for 399.99. can i find it cheaper anywhere. i think it might be best for street and offroad, at least not compared to an arb. does anyone know how much an install of this would cost? or how long it will take? diff work is not something i have experiance in.
i was actually considering regearing, maybe to 4.11's. im not surethough.
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MODS: who cares, nothing you have'nt heard already
well since i do go offroading(more in the summer) i think the no-slip would be my best bet. summit has it for 399.99. can i find it cheaper anywhere. i think it might be best for street and offroad, at least not compared to an arb. does anyone know how much an install of this would cost? or how long it will take? diff work is not something i have experiance in.
i was actually considering regearing, maybe to 4.11's. im not surethough.
Lockrights are suppose to be "no brainers" from what I've been told-
Check out PORC for pricing,
I don't think you'll find available aftermarket 4.10 gears for the Tundra/Tacoma rear
One suggestion would be to find a used Tacoma 3rd member - 4.10 is VERY common - You can find complete 3rd members with gears for less than $200 bucks.
paid 227 for my TRD Kazuma LSD installed for another 200. and has served my purposes well...i dont rock crawl, so i dont need a locker, i dont hit too many trails where i need only one wheel driving me forward so i dont need a locker. the TRD Kazuma LSD has honestly served me pretty well. Granted I do a different kind of offroading than most 4x4s.
paid 227 for my TRD Kazuma LSD installed for another 200. and has served my purposes well...i dont rock crawl, so i dont need a locker, i dont hit too many trails where i need only one wheel driving me forward so i dont need a locker. the TRD Kazuma LSD has honestly served me pretty well. Granted I do a different kind of offroading than most 4x4s.
well im gonna be doing the kind of offroading you do lalo. but im 2wd. so i want as much traction as possible. maybe a locker isnt needed, but it'd be cool.
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MODS: who cares, nothing you have'nt heard already
well im gonna be doing the kind of offroading you do lalo. but im 2wd. so i want as much traction as possible. maybe a locker isnt needed, but it'd be cool.
If you are 2wd- You might as well try to score a complete rear 3rd member with 4.10's or even 4.30's froma Tacoma- since you don't have to match up the front
Rears with those ratios are easy to come by since there are plenty of Tacoma Prerunners/4wds out there.
If you are 2wd- You might as well try to score a complete rear 3rd member with 4.10's or even 4.30's froma Tacoma- since you don't have to match up the front
Rears with those ratios are easy to come by since there are plenty of Tacoma Prerunners/4wds out there.
what kind of performance could i expect from a 4:10 setup with a no slip? how about 4:30's? gas mileage is a concern also. BTW i have 33" tires
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MODS: who cares, nothing you have'nt heard already
what kind of performance could i expect from a 4:10 setup with a no slip? how about 4:30's? gas mileage is a concern also. BTW i have 33" tires
What engine do you have?
What side effects did you notice when you went to 33"s
swapping form 3.91 to 4.10s should be a nice increase to compensate for larger than stock tires-
If you have a V6- 4.30's might be better to push the 33" tires
If you have a V8 - 4.10's might be fine (4.30 may be lower than you like)
I actually scored a complete 3rd member w/4.30's -
We tossed it into my friends V8 Tundra w/ ~32's to test http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...ead.php?t=7131
regardless- you can find pulled 4.10's rears all day long-
- So by buying a complete 3rd- you can swap diffs to see if you like it or not- plus this saves cost of regearing -
Update: here are the initial comments V8 Tundra, ~32" tires, 4.30
Initial feedback:
The Tundra is definitely peppier.
The speedo reads about 7-8% high [as expected].
1st to 2nd shift happens very quickly, 3rd to 4th shifts sooner, but strangely enough, 2nd to 3rd shifts later. Maybe I was just staying in the throttle more.
Downshifting no longer requires really, really standing on it.
4th gear highway RPM's about 2500 at 70-72 MPH, probably still to high a gear ratio to effectively use OD while towing. 3rd gear about 3300 at 70-72, should improve towing performance, but will kill the gas mileage.
To get a true test, I will need to reset the ECU and install the proper speedo gear, but I suspect that I will be going to the 4.10's for a simple correction to the tire size change instead of intentionally running underdrive. Also need to get a tank of fuel through her to see what the mileage results are.
Whats the best diff?
Linear Mode
