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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Fluid Level In Your Battery", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Just a reminder, check the water level in your battery. Even though they say it is maintenance free, you can and should check the water level. I had to add water again to mine. Second time in a year and a half, but it should save the battery from getting a bad cell.
It's an easy insurance policy to prevent getting stuck somewhere because the battery died from a dry cell.
I have only replaced one battery in the last ten years. Obviously not very often. However, I checked the fluid level in my battery last fall and made a post stating so. Lots of responses from folks who had never checked their water level and found their batteries needed it.
Like I said, an ounce of prevention may save you from getting stuck.
Well I noticed mine was starting to corrode where it touches the battery so I took it off, sanded down the corroded area then sprayed it with di-electric spray. We will see if it helps.
Has anyone figured out a FIX for this yet? If so what did you do? What has everyone else tried?
SATundra
__________________ SATundra
2001 Limited, V8, 2wd, TRD, Metallic Silver Sky MODS:
TIRES: Michelin LTX M/S LT265/75/R16 load C rated
SUSPENSION: front - red/blu 4x4 HD Bilsteins shocks & HD TRD 4x4 coils providing 1.75" lift, rear - TRD add-a-leafs, Hellwig swaybar, yell/blu 4x4 Bilsteins INTERIOR: CB-Ham/Scanner/150W linear amp in custom console, 10 disc CD player, Donnelly comp/temp mirror, Toyota All Weather floormats, tinted windows, radar detector, backseat angle mod, EXTERIOR: Grizzly SS brushguard, Better Built alum toolbox w/lights, Weatherflector Ventvisors, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, SteelHorse Bull Rings, Mobil 1 oils, 2 TS stickers, 2 TS license frames, 2 www.TundraSolutions.com stickers, ELECTRICAL: 55W undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, 55W underhood lights, DEI alarm, 12V Acc plug/engine compartment, 400watt power inverter, foglight/cargolight/acc plug/maplight mod
I generally replace the battery when it fails to start the vehicle. Sure, it's annoying to be stuck when the battery does give up but hey, I'm a resourceful guy. I can ask someone for a jump every 4-5 years or come to the rescue of my wife when her car won't start (only happened once).
I am more than a little concerned with all the corosion around my battery tie downs though. I'm going to bring it up next time I'm at the stealership.
I have heard of people changing batteries every 4 or 5 years. Here in Phoenix, I have never I have never had one last over 1.5 years. Any make. But it's a dry heat. Go Diamondbacks!
Jim
My Sequoia also had a lot of corrosion around the battery in just a short while. I cleaned it with a mix of baking soda and water and coated everything with grease. The corrsion returned after just a few weeks. So, I cleaned it again with the baking soda/water mix using a toothbrush. Once it dried well overnight, I sprayed the posts and hold downs with NCP-2 Battery Corrosion Preventative Spray which I purchased at Wal-Mart. So far, the corrosion has not returned. I'm sure you could purchase an equivalent spray at any auto parts store. Regarding replacement of the battery, I will not do so until either the original battery fails or about 4 years - whichever comes first. Then, I will go with OPTIMA battery. I just can't see replacing a perfectly good, relatively new battery. Incidentally, the original battery on my 1982 Toyota pickup lasted over 7 years! Maybe they don't make them like they used to.
I took mine back to the dealer and they replaced the tie down and covered everything with a heavy grease. Unfortunately, after 6 months, the corrosion is back.
I think I'll push for a new battery next time . . .
An old fix for the early 4x4 Toys was to install a rubber shield around the front of the battery to keep the acid from running over the side and onto the windshield washer motor. Without the fix acid would leak out and down onto the motor, which eventually lead to the motor/housing failing and leaking.
The rubber shield worked great, and I made mine out of an old inner tube.
They also make battery tray pads that are designed to keep the acid from eating through the tray, something like that modified to fit over the battery might work as well.
I was just logging in to post the same question! I've been watching mine for a while and it is getting worse. I'm getting rust-colored runoff down inside the engine bay from it. Has anyone tried the battery mats that are supposed to help? I think Griot's Garage sells them, and maybe Performance Products, don't know who else. Think I will talk to the dealer about mine also. Hopefully someone here has a good fix.
Thanks for the help everyone...
SATundra, I still hope we can met up sometime. I'm interested in the undercab lights you installed... Take care.
I put in a yellow top, but the orange top is a better fit because the poles are reversed. The only thing you need is a height adapter as it is about an inch shorter than the OEM.
Fluid Level In Your Battery
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