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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Engine lacking power it use to have???", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Well, finally finished my timingbelt and waterpump. Also did new plugs, two idler wheels, crank seal, tensioner, pvc valve and a valve gasket. After everything is installed and torqued down I took it for a test drive. It lacks the power it used to have. Feels no stronger than a V6. It picks up slower as if it's towing 2k behind it. I checked and double check, even had my another checked that the timing marks are dead on. No knocking, pinging, misfiring, or hesitation. Engine sounds super, just lacks power now. I need help solving it. Also the oil gauge was readin erradic, sometime high, sometime low and now it's not reading at all. This is all after the timing belt and waterpump was done. Please help and need feed back.
Oh, I know it's lacking power because I can't even chirp the tires around a corner anymore.
__________________ Stuffs:
JBA Headers, Costum Exhaust, ASP U/D Pulley, Centric Crossdrilled & Slotted Fr Rotors, LSD, IS Kit, Manik SS Steps, HID Headlights & Fogs, Pacer Tailgate LED Light Bar, Blacked Out Headlight & corners, LED tail lights
I would guess that the computer maybe needs time to readjust? I assume you have the correct gap on the plugs. As far as the oil gauge problem...I have no clue...I just hope that it's not a sign of something worse.
I would also check for water in your engine oil.
Well, finally finished my timingbelt and waterpump. Also did new plugs, two idler wheels, crank seal, tensioner, pvc valve and a valve gasket. After everything is installed and torqued down I took it for a test drive. It lacks the power it used to have. Feels no stronger than a V6. It picks up slower as if it's towing 2k behind it. I checked and double check, even had my another checked that the timing marks are dead on. No knocking, pinging, misfiring, or hesitation. Engine sounds super, just lacks power now. I need help solving it. Also the oil gauge was readin erradic, sometime high, sometime low and now it's not reading at all. This is all after the timing belt and waterpump was done. Please help and need feed back.
Oh, I know it's lacking power because I can't even chirp the tires around a corner anymore.
I agree about the computer. Give it a chance to get used to the tight parameters from the new belt (old one had to have stretched some) and pulleys. We also have to remember our engines are still coming out of winter shock and adapting to our recent beautiful spring weather.
Larry
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2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 ATX2 tires, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to syphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
I took the plugs out just awhile ago and rechecked the gap, all ok. Went through the engine and check all hoses. It's still bugging me with the lack of power. Maybe I should hook up the boat and tow with it to make the computer learn my aggressive needs and drive it hard. My truck was disconnected for 1.5 weeks.
__________________ Stuffs:
JBA Headers, Costum Exhaust, ASP U/D Pulley, Centric Crossdrilled & Slotted Fr Rotors, LSD, IS Kit, Manik SS Steps, HID Headlights & Fogs, Pacer Tailgate LED Light Bar, Blacked Out Headlight & corners, LED tail lights
I dont mean to say you did anything wrong, but i have changed many tundra t-belts and there is no reason for the ECU to have to learn anything. If you replace the belt in the exact same spot then you havent changed anything.Therefore nothing to learn, even if the batt was disconnected.
I think you might have the belt off a tooth or so. Can you take a pic of the timing gears and marks? the way you have them lined up. If you feel a definate power diff, then there is something wrong.Retarded timing belt?
There have been a couple of Toyota techs i know, who even with the book installed the T-belt wrong.
If it was ok before then i would recheck my work.
Before doing that, try dropping the exhaust at the exh flanges on the manifolds. You might have converters starting to plug up. IE... lack of power
Let us know,
just trying to help
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
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That's kind of what I thought about hte ecu, it shouldn't have to learn. That's the thing, I didn't check where the old marks were so I centered all the marks exactly centered as marked.
The power difference is noticable. Even my brother and cuz's felt it. It seems to lack low to mid power and really run out of breath from 3.5k on up to redline. Don't have that surge of power from 3k up anymore. I guess I'll do that, take it off again and sheck timing.
Another thing, the marks on the crank cover that shows 10-0 with some line marks in between. Is towards 10 advance or retard? I had it set at 0. Would a scanner tell me timing?
__________________ Stuffs:
JBA Headers, Costum Exhaust, ASP U/D Pulley, Centric Crossdrilled & Slotted Fr Rotors, LSD, IS Kit, Manik SS Steps, HID Headlights & Fogs, Pacer Tailgate LED Light Bar, Blacked Out Headlight & corners, LED tail lights
That's kind of what I thought about hte ecu, it shouldn't have to learn. That's the thing, I didn't check where the old marks were so I centered all the marks exactly centered as marked.
The power difference is noticable. Even my brother and cuz's felt it. It seems to lack low to mid power and really run out of breath from 3.5k on up to redline. Don't have that surge of power from 3k up anymore. I guess I'll do that, take it off again and sheck timing.
Another thing, the marks on the crank cover that shows 10-0 with some line marks in between. Is towards 10 advance or retard? I had it set at 0. Would a scanner tell me timing?
Before you take it apart, DROP the exh. Its quick and easy.You'll know right away if the cats are plugged.
The 10 is toward the advanced side.
If it isnt the exh, and you do take the upper covers off, take a picture of the belt the way you have it lined up.
Dont use the marks that look like "T"'s, they are not for "T"iming.The timing marks are not centered, the picture is deceiving.
Keep us updated, i am curious whats wrong.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
I don't see anything on the little vid screen.
I just remembered that if I set the crank at 0, that's tdc which would mean that when the ign sparks, the crank would already start it downward travel resulting in less power. I need to advance it 5 degrees so it ign just before tdc.
I pretty sure my cats are good, but I'll check them anyways since I'm gonna redo my headers gaskets next week.
I still have the oils gauge problem that just happened minutes after I started my truck when I finished the timing belt job. I can only think of 3 things, oil pressure sender unit, broken wire or the gauge is dead.
__________________ Stuffs:
JBA Headers, Costum Exhaust, ASP U/D Pulley, Centric Crossdrilled & Slotted Fr Rotors, LSD, IS Kit, Manik SS Steps, HID Headlights & Fogs, Pacer Tailgate LED Light Bar, Blacked Out Headlight & corners, LED tail lights
I don't see anything on the little vid screen.
I just remembered that if I set the crank at 0, that's tdc which would mean that when the ign sparks, the crank would already start it downward travel resulting in less power. I need to advance it 5 degrees so it ign just before tdc.
I pretty sure my cats are good, but I'll check them anyways since I'm gonna redo my headers gaskets next week.
I still have the oils gauge problem that just happened minutes after I started my truck when I finished the timing belt job. I can only think of 3 things, oil pressure sender unit, broken wire or the gauge is dead.
I have to agree with one of the posts above, I think your timing belt is off the marks. That will definitely give you the symptom you are describing.
__________________ 05 White TRD D-Cab, SR5, Limited slip, 20" TRD Enkei's with BFGoodrich G-Force TA NT, All weather guard package, factory rear privacy glass with matching front door tint, Toyota bedliner plus bed mat, Toyota/A.R.E. color keyed tonneau cover, overhead console with temp, compass and Homelink, Toyota/Gentex electrochromatic mirror, keyless, mats, TRD aluminum front skidplate, Toyota/Bazooka VSE 100 watt self-powered subwoofer, TRD stainless exhaust tip, door sill guards, Custom TRD matched pin striping with Toyota logos, painted calipers with TRD letters, TRD billet aluminum third brake light cover with true TRD letters, Pioneer AVIC D-3 GPS head unit with IP Buss controlled Pioneer XM radio tuner and iPod interface, Pac remote(maintains steering wheel controls) Polk Audio speakers DB675 two way in rear, Polk DB6750 components in front powered by a Polk C400.4 4 channel amp, seperate amped Aura Pro Bass Shakers under each front seat, Bazooka EL series 8" 100 watt self-powered subwoofer with Polk Momo driver with quick disconnect, Memphis tweeters in rear, back-up sensors (very handy), foglight mod, Sylvania Silverstars in both head and fog lights, added rear halogen back-up lighting, BellTech 6700 1" lowering shackles, Hellwig anti-sway bar, Magnaflow 14586 Stainless muffler, Wheelskins two-tone leather steering wheel cover, Ventvisors for side and rear windows, custom lower grill insert, Hoppy tailgate spring. More to come!
There is a TSB for the oil sending unit on your tundra.
To test the system, remove the wire from the sending unit (is it plugged in? Did ya forget to plug it in after you did the t-belt?)
ground that wire and the gauge should peg on the high mark. If it does then the sender is faulty, if it doesnt then either the wire is bad or the gauge is bad.
I am trying to attatch a picture of the timing marks for you.But it wont attatch.
PM me your e-mail and ill send you a copy of it and the instructions,if you want.
You have to set the crank at "0" then the cams at their correct positions. Timing is not adjustable in this vehicle.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
I also think that you are off a tooth. Don't think it has anything to do with the computer. If you don't have any oil pressure you would be done running before now, must be a wire or bad connection or sending unit.
I bought a service manual with the idea of changing my timing belt myself. Still plan to. Not looking at the manual, but remember the crank pulley being on the TDC mark and then the cam pulleys and belts being on the timing mark, not the T mark which looked to be to the right ot the timing mark by maybe one half inch or so. It said to take a spanner wrench and turn the pulley and with the tension of the belt the mark should move to the T mark. SO, if you centered it between the marks I think you would be off by maybe a tooth. Also said to turn the engine two full revos by hand and recheck the marks.
Again, I have not done this job yet, the pictures are not the best in the world. Let me know if you would like me to check and get back to you with the manual in hand. I got one for $19.95 at AUTO Zone, a lot of good intel in there and worth it in my opinion.
Let us know what you find out, looks like a big job, would hate to take it apart and have to do it again. Why did it take you a week or longer, I was hoping to do it in an afternoon!
Sounds like Mustang is getting you on the right track!
Happy Hauling!
Doug
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I never make the same mistake twice; and hardly ever three times.
2004 Rav4 S
2000 SR5 4x4, Stock with the exception of one important mod. ME! It's just a farm truck, not a fashion statement.
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Took me a week and a half because I thought the tundra uses sealant for the waterpump like my dad's ls400 but it doesn't, which is the only part I didn't get nor did I know it need a gasket. Had to order it and wait till it gets here. Otherwise it'll be a days job only.
__________________ Stuffs:
JBA Headers, Costum Exhaust, ASP U/D Pulley, Centric Crossdrilled & Slotted Fr Rotors, LSD, IS Kit, Manik SS Steps, HID Headlights & Fogs, Pacer Tailgate LED Light Bar, Blacked Out Headlight & corners, LED tail lights