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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "K&N FIPK", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Hey, I am interested in purchasing one of these, and was wondering if it made your miles per gallon worse, and if it is too loud. Thanks for your help.
Does it add power in the rpm range you want the power? Does it add enough to justify the price? No, and no for me.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
If you search FIPK, you will find a TON of info conerning. I had it. Did not like it, lost low end, and sold it on ebay @ a loss. Oh well. nothing is going to save you money on gas except for a. driving slower, b. proper tire inflation, c. regular maintanence.
It is loud.
The reason you lose MPG is to hear it when you wind the truck up.
HP costs money, and the K&N HP gains in the low end of the rpm spectrum is not there, and is a waste.
There are others on the board that will disagree with me on this, this is only my opinion.
__________________
Quote:
It is better to remain silent and have people wonder if you are an idiot, rather than to open your mouth and prove to everyone you are an idiot beyond all doubt. ~ Jim Rogers
If you search FIPK, you will find a TON of info conerning. I had it. Did not like it, lost low end, and sold it on ebay @ a loss. Oh well. nothing is going to save you money on gas except for a. driving slower, b. proper tire inflation, c. regular maintanence.
It is loud.
The reason you lose MPG is to hear it when you wind the truck up.
HP costs money, and the K&N HP gains in the low end of the rpm spectrum is not there, and is a waste.
There are others on the board that will disagree with me on this, this is only my opinion.
so would the k%n drop in filter make you loose power in low end?
so would the k%n drop in filter make you loose power in low end?
the drop in actually has LESS filtering area than the OEM filter. I gained back 4-6hp on the dyno changing from the TRD (K&N clone) back to oem. Leave it alone.
__________________
Quote:
It is better to remain silent and have people wonder if you are an idiot, rather than to open your mouth and prove to everyone you are an idiot beyond all doubt. ~ Jim Rogers
the drop in actually has LESS filtering area than the OEM filter. I gained back 4-6hp on the dyno changing from the TRD (K&N clone) back to oem. Leave it alone.
I replaced the stock filter with a FRAM air filter from wal mart for $12.00 instead of paying $35.00 for a toyota air filter. Now will i loose power by using a fram instead of toyota? And what about a TRD drop in air filter?
How does the K&N drop in air filter have less filtering area? It has the same dimensions and it states that it flows more air.
Okay, I have a simple, yet possibly complex questions to answer. I installed the FIPK Gen II today. Looks great, the little vacuum plugs were rather difficult to install, and the seal on the mass air sensor seems to be fine. All the cables are tight, extremely tight. I turn the car on for the first time, and hear a much louder sucking noise. Sounds like someone is sucking in a lot of air... normal? I hope so, it says it shoudl sound more aggresive than stock. I shut the hood, still hear the sucking noise. I drive with the windows down and when I slam the gas, it sounds as though you suck in air sharply. Like you are taking in air after holding your breath for a minute. It's pretty loud, didn't know if this was normal, and it's bothering me. Flowmaster 40 series sounds so much more aggresive with the FIPK now though. Let me know if that sucking noise is normal or what not....
Thanks,
Erik
__________________
2002 Toyota Tundra SR5 Model l Flowmaster 40 Series Exhaust With 3.5" Tips Out The Sides l 16" Ultra Wheels l Toyo A/T Tires l 12" Audiobahn 122T l Audiobahn A2601Q Amp l Eclipse 3434 Headunit l Sylvania Silverstar Headlights l K&N FIPK Gen II Intake (Removed) l BedRug Bed Liner l Debadged 7/22/2005 l
How about $12 for an Denso OEM air filter from one of the TS dealer advertisers...buy a couple along with plugs, etc., to spread the shipping cost.
The K&N air filter has fewer and smaller pleats. If both the stock air filter and the K&N air filter are unfolded, the stock filter has more filtering area.
I don't think a K&N or TRD drop-in air filter causes a loss of power, but they certainly do not cause an increase in power. Basically you get nothing for your extra money except the ability to get slimy cleaning the thing. I've used both K&N and OEM filter elements, and the top of the air box and the throttle body were always cleaner with the OEM filter.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
In my experience on a 91 Toyota MR2 Turbo, the K&N drop in filter passed more dirt through with no difference in performance or gas mileage.
We use the car for Solo 2 and track day events. I briefly tried an Apexi cone type filter on the same car. This required removing the airbox assembly. I fitted a duct from the cone filter to the air inlet at the side of the car for cool air.
I did notice a slight difference in power at higher revs, about 0.4 second quicker on 0-60. I got tired of the additional noise in the cabin and the additional dirt downstream in the intake. Another user said he found the inlet vane edges of the turbo compressor wheel looked like they had been sandblasted. Mine were still smooth but dirty.
I put the original airbox and toyota filter back in. Everything downstream stays nice and clean now.
I replaced the stock filter with a FRAM air filter from wal mart for $12.00 instead of paying $35.00 for a toyota air filter. Now will i loose power by using a fram instead of toyota? And what about a TRD drop in air filter?
How does the K&N drop in air filter have less filtering area? It has the same dimensions and it states that it flows more air.
put the 2 side by side. look at the rubber around the k&n and compare to the oem, if you want, take a tape measure to the ACTUAL filtering area.
Of course they have the "same" dimentions, they have to fit in the same spot.
__________________
Quote:
It is better to remain silent and have people wonder if you are an idiot, rather than to open your mouth and prove to everyone you are an idiot beyond all doubt. ~ Jim Rogers
Okay, I have a simple, yet possibly complex questions to answer. I installed the FIPK Gen II today. Looks great, the little vacuum plugs were rather difficult to install, and the seal on the mass air sensor seems to be fine. All the cables are tight, extremely tight. I turn the car on for the first time, and hear a much louder sucking noise. Sounds like someone is sucking in a lot of air... normal? I hope so, it says it shoudl sound more aggresive than stock. I shut the hood, still hear the sucking noise. I drive with the windows down and when I slam the gas, it sounds as though you suck in air sharply. Like you are taking in air after holding your breath for a minute. It's pretty loud, didn't know if this was normal, and it's bothering me. Flowmaster 40 series sounds so much more aggresive with the FIPK now though. Let me know if that sucking noise is normal or what not....
Thanks,
Erik
That sucking noise is normal. It's the sound of the money being sucked out of your wallet. Just kidding man. It's normal, and if you like to have your truck sounding agressive, you will find that you're going to have your right foot a little heavier, and your mileage is going to go down.
__________________
Quote:
It is better to remain silent and have people wonder if you are an idiot, rather than to open your mouth and prove to everyone you are an idiot beyond all doubt. ~ Jim Rogers
I want some performance upgrades, I don't care if it increses power throughout the powerband, I just don't want to looses anything. So the FIPK looses low end?
I want some performance upgrades, I don't care if it increses power throughout the powerband, I just don't want to looses anything. So the FIPK looses low end?
the power starts to hit around 3200 rpm's
__________________
Quote:
It is better to remain silent and have people wonder if you are an idiot, rather than to open your mouth and prove to everyone you are an idiot beyond all doubt. ~ Jim Rogers
I personally believe that everyone who is down playing the k&N is a little over doing the power loss. I pulled my 21ft proline with my stock intake and also with my K&N. The difference is very minimal, with the mid power being much better with the K&N. Passing was much easier also. I would put money on the line that a tundra with stock intake would get beat by a tundra with K&N intake from stop light to stop light and in a 45mph dash. And I think I would be safe in assuming that everyone who is thinking about purchasing mods such as this is looking for a way to make their truck quicker. The sound may not be for all, but some like it, including me.
K&n Fipk
