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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Lubing Slip Yoke", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I dind't find the exact answers in a search but I'm sure this has been covered before. Sorry for the duplication.
Since I bought my '03 Tundra used it's had a pretty strong thunk during braking and starting. I started to drop the drive shaft today in order to grease the slip yoke. Not having done it before, I thought the drive shaft would be fairly easy to drop. I removed the bolts from the flange and the truck rolled back a little moving the flange on the diff about halfway between the bolt holes on the drive shaft. I was surprised the shaft didn't easily drop. Fearing that there was some sort of compression holding it there I decided not to whack it with a 2 lbs. dead blow hammer. So, I rolled the truck back a little more and put the bolts back in.
A couple of questions. How hard should the drive shaft be to drop? Should I just jump on the bumper a bit to loosen it? Will it be hard to get back on if I go through that exercise?
Also, the flange on the diff is now rotated 1/4" turn. I can't imagine that the four bolt holes need to be in the exact same holes when the shaft is put back on do they?
Also, the flange on the diff is now rotated 1/4" turn. I can't imagine that the four bolt holes need to be in the exact same holes when the shaft is put back on do they?
I would put it back exactly the way it was, to avoid the possibility of vibration. In a perfect world in wouldn't matter, but Toyota's world isn't that perfect anymore. Member Arkie6 wrote the original instructions for lubing the slip yoke on a Tundra 4x4. His method works. If you can't search it out, give me a PM.
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I did find Arkie6's post but it mentioned nothing about getting the drive shaft off the flange. What I read went into great detail about using the zerk fitting to grease it. Mine's so dry I'd like to remove it.
Use the grease fitting. It puts grease into the correct spot for lubrication. Get a grease containing moly, grease it full, don't blow out the seal, remove the fitting, drive slowly over a curb or bumps to work out any excess grease, replace the fitting, and you're done.
Ken
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Great advice, especially if you have a 4WD. The front driveline uses itty, bitty plastic seals on the u joint. Anything more than one full pump and you'll wind up needing new joints. See the photos in my photo gallery if yer curious.
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Use the grease fitting. It puts grease into the correct spot for lubrication. Get a grease containing moly, grease it full, don't blow out the seal, remove the fitting, drive slowly over a curb or bumps to work out any excess grease, replace the fitting, and you're done.
Ken
Ken, I'm wondering if a guy couldn't just jump up and down on the bumper to work the excess grease out.
Has anyone made the determination that the Moly grease may be used everywhere and not just on the double cardan? It makes sense to me that you could but I've read conflicting posts here on TS.
Jim
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Curiosity killed the cat but satisfaction brought him back.
I took the slip yoke apart last night and put grease on it. I can't imagine I would get enough grease on the splines via the zerk fitting unless I went through one whole grease canister. The splines were completely dry. Now, the clunk is gone.
Regarding breaking the seals on the u-joint. I've always seen/heard that you don't want to grease a ball joint (or other joint with a rubber seal) until grease comes out but you do on a u-joint. That, actually, you want grease coming from all four caps. Someone else posted this link here before so I'll post it again. After reading it, it only makes sense why would want to do it this way. The video is even better but is big.
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Lubing Slip Yoke
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