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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Synthetic oil", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Would like to use synthetic oil on my new Tundra SR5 DC 4x4. I only have 500 miles on the truck and I have heard that it should not be used until >5000 miles. Any suggestions on which synthetic to use? Will converting to synthetic have any effect on the warrenty of my new truck? Any help would be appreciated.
Would like to use synthetic oil on my new Tundra SR5 DC 4x4. I only have 500 miles on the truck and I have heard that it should not be used until >5000 miles. Any suggestions on which synthetic to use? Will converting to synthetic have any effect on the warrenty of my new truck? Any help would be appreciated.
I don't believe that using synthetic will void anything. I used Royal Purple for a while, but am now using Mobil 1 because it's just easier to go to the store and buy it than order it on line and wait to get it.
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Opinions vary about when to change and there is no hard data I know of. I'd do an oil change with conventional oil at 500-1000 miles, another at 5000 miles, then switch to syn if that's your choice. The very early oil change gets rid of any break in particles and remaining manufacturing debris.
Any oil that meets the owner's manual spec will support your warranty. Amsoil is not licensed by API, so technically doesn't quality, but works well, and who's to know the difference?
Some synthetic oils are good for extended oil drain intervals, but you need an oil analysis at the recommended change periods to prove the oil is still good to protect your warranty.
Why synthetic?...Generally synthetic oil gives
-much better lubrication when very cold
-much better lubrication when very hot
-slightly cleaner engine internals,
-very slightly reduced wear,
-very slightly improved fuel mileage,
-double the oil life.
One of the very best oils to use is the imported German Castrol Syntec 0W-30. Be sure it is the imported stuff. U.S. Castrol syntec is good, but not as good as the German 0W-30. Mobil 1 is very good, especially the 10W-30. Royal Purple seems to shear down to a lower viscosity sooner than I think it should. Amsoil is good but pricey. I really like Schaeffer, but it can be hard to find.
If you plan on using your truck very hard & hot, do consider a 5W-40 instead of the usual 5W-30 or 10W-30. The synthetic 5W-40 is a much more robust oil. Very good brands are Mobil 1, 76/Kendall/Conoco/Phillips, Castrol, Amsoil.
If you plan on owning your truck for several hundreds of thousands of miles, look at the "HT/HS" spec on the oil. This is the High Temp/High Shear viscosity of the oil and closely relates to long-term engine wear. The oil is heated to 150°C, stressed, and tested for viscosity. The minimum is 2.6 CP, whick is OK and gives maybe 1-2% better fuel mileage. A more practical minimum for less long-term wear is 3.1, and 3.3 or better is excellent. Any oil with the European designation ACEA A3 will minimize long-term engine wear.
Ken
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I asked my Classic Toyota Dealer on how much they charge doing the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic change on my truck....They said about $50...is that reasonable price? I'm thinking on switching over to the Mobil1 from the regular Mobil...
How many of you guys out there go buy your own Mobil 1 oil and take it to the dealer to change oil for you?? I think its cheaper if you to buy your own oil...
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2008 Toyota Tundra Double Cab Limited with TRD Off-Road Package..Desert Sand Mica Color...
Mods:Viper 5500 Remote Start, Volant CAI, TRD Sway Bar, Corsa Sport Exhaust System
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2008 Toyota Tundra TRD Off-Road
1995 C4 Corvette Admiral Blue
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
2007 Kawasaki Ninja ZX10 Special Edition<--SOLD
2003 CBR 954 RR - Track Bike
SERENITY- 4 Wheels Move The Body, 2 Wheels Move The Soul...
I switched my 2004 Double Cab over to Mobil-1 at around 30,000 miles at WalMart for about $42. Of course it's cheaper to do it yourself, but how much cheaper? I think $50 by Toyota is also a reasonable price. When every penny counts, then do it yourself; So far, I've elected to pay the small premium to have it done.
If you plan on using your truck very hard & hot, do consider a 5W-40 instead of the usual 5W-30 or 10W-30. The synthetic 5W-40 is a much more robust oil. Very good brands are Mobil 1, 76/Kendall/Conoco/Phillips, Castrol, Amsoil.
Using synthetic is always better, when to change it depends on opinions but as they've said, there is no hard evidence or proof on pros and cons. All I know is, that it is true that the conventional oil is better for breaking in a new motor. The rule of thumb I just use is to change oil on new cars for the first time at 2500-3K miles and switch to synthetic. The first oil put into new cars contain a break in lubricant and some have actually recommended changing that oil after 3K or less. By then the mototr is boken in and does not need that brek in lube mix. Either a conventionl or synthetic oil can then be used. So sysnthetic is good to use then. I like all the mentioned products. For everyday use I still prefer Mobil 1. I use the 5W till about 10K, then switch to 10W 30. If you do racing or hard driving, use the Mobil 1 15W 50 or Castrol syn 50W. Royal Purple is good for racing but is hard to find and doubt most of you race your Tundra. Just remember that the heavier your oil weight, the poorer your gas mileage will be.
well I've just hit 8,500 miles on my tundra...is it too late to change to Mobil 1 FSynthetic oil???
Actually, it's a perfect time to switch. Your engine is well broken in and the Mobile 1 is a great choice IMO. Once you switch, it is a good idea to stay with synthetic. I think you'll be happy you did.
__________________ 05 White TRD D-Cab, SR5, Limited slip, 20" TRD Enkei's with BFGoodrich G-Force TA NT, All weather guard package, factory rear privacy glass with matching front door tint, Toyota bedliner plus bed mat, Toyota/A.R.E. color keyed tonneau cover, overhead console with temp, compass and Homelink, Toyota/Gentex electrochromatic mirror, keyless, mats, TRD aluminum front skidplate, Toyota/Bazooka VSE 100 watt self-powered subwoofer, TRD stainless exhaust tip, door sill guards, Custom TRD matched pin striping with Toyota logos, painted calipers with TRD letters, TRD billet aluminum third brake light cover with true TRD letters, Pioneer AVIC D-3 GPS head unit with IP Buss controlled Pioneer XM radio tuner and iPod interface, Pac remote(maintains steering wheel controls) Polk Audio speakers DB675 two way in rear, Polk DB6750 components in front powered by a Polk C400.4 4 channel amp, seperate amped Aura Pro Bass Shakers under each front seat, Bazooka EL series 8" 100 watt self-powered subwoofer with Polk Momo driver with quick disconnect, Memphis tweeters in rear, back-up sensors (very handy), foglight mod, Sylvania Silverstars in both head and fog lights, added rear halogen back-up lighting, BellTech 6700 1" lowering shackles, Hellwig anti-sway bar, Magnaflow 14586 Stainless muffler, Wheelskins two-tone leather steering wheel cover, Ventvisors for side and rear windows, custom lower grill insert, Hoppy tailgate spring. More to come!
Actually, it's a perfect time to switch. Your engine is well broken in and the Mobile 1 is a great choice IMO. Once you switch, it is a good idea to stay with synthetic. I think you'll be happy you did.
yeah I'll go ahead and do that...Phil are you using Mobil 1? If so how often you change the Mobil 1 oil? every 5000 or longer?
Hey one more question about your 20s how much psi do you put your tires at? max is 50psi and I've been puttin 34psi all the way around....thanks for hint
Rob
__________________
2008 Toyota Tundra Double Cab Limited with TRD Off-Road Package..Desert Sand Mica Color...
Mods:Viper 5500 Remote Start, Volant CAI, TRD Sway Bar, Corsa Sport Exhaust System
JBA Headers
_____________________________________________
2008 Toyota Tundra TRD Off-Road
1995 C4 Corvette Admiral Blue
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
2007 Kawasaki Ninja ZX10 Special Edition<--SOLD
2003 CBR 954 RR - Track Bike
SERENITY- 4 Wheels Move The Body, 2 Wheels Move The Soul...
Well actually I only have about 2900 miles on the new beast so far. I changed it the first time at 900 miles with a dino oil change and then switched to Mobil 1 at about 2300. I will probably be obsessive and change it sooner than needed, but I was planning on 4000 to 5000 mile intervals. I know lots of guys on here go longer on Mobile 1. One member just had his oil tested after 9000 miles and it was still in very good shape. It's really up to you but I would say 5000 is probably the average Tundra owners are changing when using synthetics like Mobil 1.
As for my tire, I was running them about factory spec until I discovered my front tires were feathering a little. I had the alignment checked and all is well there but the tech said with more around town driving like I do it is better to pump them up a bit to keep the feathering down on the outer edges. He said it is very common to see this in a wider tire that goes around a lot of corners and doesn't hit the highway enough. Now I am running 38 front and 35 rear and I may go higher depending on if the feathering subsides.
Phil
__________________ 05 White TRD D-Cab, SR5, Limited slip, 20" TRD Enkei's with BFGoodrich G-Force TA NT, All weather guard package, factory rear privacy glass with matching front door tint, Toyota bedliner plus bed mat, Toyota/A.R.E. color keyed tonneau cover, overhead console with temp, compass and Homelink, Toyota/Gentex electrochromatic mirror, keyless, mats, TRD aluminum front skidplate, Toyota/Bazooka VSE 100 watt self-powered subwoofer, TRD stainless exhaust tip, door sill guards, Custom TRD matched pin striping with Toyota logos, painted calipers with TRD letters, TRD billet aluminum third brake light cover with true TRD letters, Pioneer AVIC D-3 GPS head unit with IP Buss controlled Pioneer XM radio tuner and iPod interface, Pac remote(maintains steering wheel controls) Polk Audio speakers DB675 two way in rear, Polk DB6750 components in front powered by a Polk C400.4 4 channel amp, seperate amped Aura Pro Bass Shakers under each front seat, Bazooka EL series 8" 100 watt self-powered subwoofer with Polk Momo driver with quick disconnect, Memphis tweeters in rear, back-up sensors (very handy), foglight mod, Sylvania Silverstars in both head and fog lights, added rear halogen back-up lighting, BellTech 6700 1" lowering shackles, Hellwig anti-sway bar, Magnaflow 14586 Stainless muffler, Wheelskins two-tone leather steering wheel cover, Ventvisors for side and rear windows, custom lower grill insert, Hoppy tailgate spring. More to come!
I asked my Classic Toyota Dealer on how much they charge doing the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic change on my truck....They said about $50...is that reasonable price? I'm thinking on switching over to the Mobil1 from the regular Mobil...
How many of you guys out there go buy your own Mobil 1 oil and take it to the dealer to change oil for you?? I think its cheaper if you to buy your own oil...
Locally it was about $2.00 a quart more expensive buying it at the dealer VS bringing it in.
__________________ 06 Toyota Highlander Hybrid Limited (former ride - 05 Tundra Limited Double Cab, 4x4, TRD Pkg, Trailer Tow, Auto Dimming mirror, Factory Bed Liner, Running Boards, Bug Deflector, Sun roof):
Synthetic oil
