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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "TACOMA:Cold air intake & throttle body spacer - WOW!", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
i wouldnt quite say thats true. the cylinders can only accept a certain volume of air. the colder that air is, the denser it will be. if the air is more dense, than there will be more to burn.
and theres no way that intake has cooler air than the stock one in any way. a metal intake which draws from the engine compartment?!?! connect a laptop to the obdII port and monitor the IAT while driving. youll notice that the heat soak affecting the intake is not worth replacing the stock box. when you pull away from a stop light, you will effectively have less power
2 words for that "Header wrap". That stuff does great and keeping the air cool. Also you guys still don't get it.. Look at it this way....The "cold air" coming from your fender has to travel threw the engine bay at one point to get to the TB then to the manifold. The TB and such is RIGHT iver the engine so not matter what the air your getting is going to be hott. NOw if you move 32% more air threw the intake its going to take longer to heat up because the volum is greater...I wanna see some dyno # to so don't get me wrong. BUt you have to also see that the dyno can't measure real world driving at 80+ mph when the air flow threw the grill, under the egine, ect is coming at such a great rate. If this intake setup works I would bet it's around 8hp more then stock. I still wanna make my own forced air induction because I know where to run the pipe and I bet I could get better numbers at high speeds.....
for all you doubters saying this is hotter air than stock, leave your truck running with the hood closed. Now go to the front tire and put your arm through the suspension area. You can put your hand within 1" of the header and it's not very hot. A 3" straight pipe will flow better than the stock box IMO. Of course a dyno of before and after would be great.
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If you are drawing air from the stock piping inside the fender to the engine, it has very little time to get hot or even warm. If you are already drawing air from inside the engine compartment which is warm or even hot with this new setup, then call it what it is, hot air. Think about it, those dragsters or even some of the old Cutlass' and Thunderbolts, etc. had duct work running to under the bumper, shaker hoods, taking out a pair of headlights to RAM cold air into the carb. You are going to make more power on a cool day at the drag strip than a hot day.
If its too good to be true, than it usually is. Not buying the claims yet.
__________________ "Si vis pacem, para bellum"-Vegetius
2005 Tacoma Doublecab TRD Offroad 4X4 shortbed - Modifications - Fog light mod, Debadged, Black Toyota grille emblem, Map Light Mod, DRL mod
Factory Accessories - Tacoma Bedmat, Extra set of D-rings installed in front bed bolts, Extra set of factory tie downs
Optional Options - FilterMag, Fumoto valve, Westin Suregrip running boards w/LED lights, WeatherTech Floorliners, WeatherTech window visor vents, Prestige remote car starter w/keyless entry, SilverStar headlight and turn signal bulbs, Toytek 2" lift, Muth heated signal mirrors, WAAG grille guard (center only, I'm old school), Taillights tinted by JonsTintedTails.com, Anthracite FJ Cruiser wheels w/ 265/75r16 BFGoodrich A/T
If you are drawing air from the stock piping inside the fender to the engine, it has very little time to get hot or even warm. If you are already drawing air from inside the engine compartment which is warm or even hot with this new setup, then call it what it is, hot air. Think about it, those dragsters or even some of the old Cutlass' and Thunderbolts, etc. had duct work running to under the bumper, shaker hoods, taking out a pair of headlights to RAM cold air into the carb. You are going to make more power on a cool day at the drag strip than a hot day.
If its too good to be true, than it usually is. Not buying the claims yet.
Well you bring up a good point but your fogetting the fact that u have air flowing threw the engine compartment while driving. So warmer air is replaced with the air out side. Even if there was warmer air being sucked in just having a lest restrictive set up that has no baffels or air box's and a shorter path will improve. The only way to settle this is the DYNO
This is just seat of the pants feeling - no real numbers to back anything up yet. And for those of you who don't seem to be reading the whole posts - I haven't made any claims yet! These are just my IMPRESSIONS!
It really feels like the throttle response is much, much faster & crisper than stock - It does accelerate faster, how much, I don't know yet. Gas mileage, even with my foot buried in it for the past three tanks is slightly better (.5 -.8 mpg improvement) After I get used to it & stop horsing it around, I'm sure that will show some additional improvement as well.
I've been in & out of motors since I was a kid (I'm in my mid 30's now), so I've seen a few things. I'm not claiming its like a blower/turbo/nitrous (some of these posts would make you think I have claimed this) - but its a good improvement over stock.
And don't forget - I'm driving the heaviest taco of the bunch - TRD sport, dbl cab, long bed, 4x4, auto trans, tow pack.
rocktaco, the fact is the stock intake is designed to be slightly more restrictive, but provides more throttle response. the box is semi-pressurized with air at any given time, and this aids in initial air intake. however at 5,000rpm the setup you have should theoretically flow better.
the fact is ive seen many intake dynos and im willing to bet that this intake will lose low and midrange power and gain anywhere between 5-8hp at the peak, after vvt-i engages.
and blangkang, although youre ideas are logical they are not necessarily true, it sure is wishful thinking, but hey, youre money you want to waste.
...what he said. some of us have been around the block as well, and we've seen/heard/tried these same products before...from the same company even.
all their power tower did was make the engine whistle, and no "cold air" intake will match the performance of the stock intake...period. that is based on dyno runs and comparisons from true flow, they tried everything and then packed it in when they realized nothing was as good as the yota setup...their "cold air" kit just adds a tube and a filter, doesnt touch the airbox or the connector to the fender.
treat yourself to a dyno test, you will be unpleasantly surprised. that helix doesnt do a thing except make noise, and once your engine adjusts, you will have lost power. remember your 05 taco has a much more advanced engine than the 00 tundra, messing with things will hurt worse than the original tundras.
i bought a helix and a k&n back in the day and then raced around town thinking i had plenty of power...actually, it didnt do a thing, but i thought it did since i was flooring it everywhere and the filter made more noise than the stock intake.
sorry to say this, cuz i know youre psyched, but it's history, and if you know the history of these products you'd stay well away from them. theyre on the 05 taco b/c most of you have never heard of a thing like this, are eager to boost power, and arent rolling in cash for a blower. learn about others' past experience with these same products ("cold air" kits and the "power" tower), so you dont get ripped off like we did five years ago.
if you want the details, search for the "why the 4.7l doesnt respond well to engine mods" thread, and all the old helix threads, in engine and drivetrain. yeah, it's a different engine, that is a minor detail. your engine is more finely tuned, which will make it more sensitive to intake & exhaust mods, not in a good way.
I would NEVER EVER EVER reccomend using header wrap on a street car! I've seen too many cases where it's caused premature failure due to thermal fatigue. The wrap doesn't allow heat to radiate from the piping which results in thermal soak ( causing fatigue) also does nice things with any moisture trapped under the wrap!
You might be -ok- with the stuff if you have thick cast iron manifolds, but I still wouln't use it. About the only I've seen it actually used much is on turbo'd drag setups where longitivity isn't the primary concern. Keeping heat in the exhaust is very beneficial for these setups even if you have to replace piping every now and then.
Devin67 has things right on as far as filter "performance kits".
...what he said. some of us have been around the block as well, and we've seen/heard/tried these same products before...from the same company even.
all their power tower did was make the engine whistle, and no "cold air" intake will match the performance of the stock intake...period. that is based on dyno runs and comparisons from true flow, they tried everything and then packed it in when they realized nothing was as good as the yota setup...their "cold air" kit just adds a tube and a filter, doesnt touch the airbox or the connector to the fender.
treat yourself to a dyno test, you will be unpleasantly surprised. that helix doesnt do a thing except make noise, and once your engine adjusts, you will have lost power. remember your 05 taco has a much more advanced engine than the 00 tundra, messing with things will hurt worse than the original tundras.
i bought a helix and a k&n back in the day and then raced around town thinking i had plenty of power...actually, it didnt do a thing, but i thought it did since i was flooring it everywhere and the filter made more noise than the stock intake.
sorry to say this, cuz i know youre psyched, but it's history, and if you know the history of these products you'd stay well away from them. theyre on the 05 taco b/c most of you have never heard of a thing like this, are eager to boost power, and arent rolling in cash for a blower. learn about others' past experience with these same products ("cold air" kits and the "power" tower), so you dont get ripped off like we did five years ago.
if you want the details, search for the "why the 4.7l doesnt respond well to engine mods" thread, and all the old helix threads, in engine and drivetrain. yeah, it's a different engine, that is a minor detail. your engine is more finely tuned, which will make it more sensitive to intake & exhaust mods, not in a good way.
-sean
I know what your saying with this. BUt if the engine is tuned it should get more power. The stock computer needs to be tuned for the mod you put on any car/truck. Wait till gadget come out with his tuner and # will soon fallow
This thread has run the full gamet of thoughts. All I did was announce a new upcoming product that I am field testing. Why don't some of you wait for the dyno numbers before passing judgement on these new items.
I am going to do an underhood temp test idling & driving at different speeds to see what the temps really are at the filter vs outside ambient. I own an airconditioning company here, so I do have high quality temp test equipment - not some fly by night stuff. I'll post my findings.
One comment said that the stock intake is pressurized & therefore throttle response is better with the factory setup. Well, I'm no engineer, but I do know that they are partly right, only problem is that the pressure is negative (that's a vacuum for you folks in Rio Linda) and my new intake flows 32% more air, therefore less negative pressure, the engine doesn't work as hard to breathe = greater/faster/crisper throttle response (less resistance, higher volume, etc). Of course the amount of increase depends on things like altitude, ambient temp, humidity, other mods, etc.
when testing the temperature all you need to do is get a reading from the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. measuring underhood temp is stupid and wont do much for comparison.
what you need is an obdII cable to hook up to your laptop and diagnostic software. then you will see what happens at a stop light and stop and go traffic.
ive seen these kinds of tests done before and intakes like what you have usually do horribly
I've always looked at it this way. If Toyota thought the engine could make more horsepower with a short little pipe with an airfilter hanging off the end wouldn't you think Toyota would have designed it this way? From my Mustang days I've always came to the same conclusion about parts like these..never worth the money.
Holy Cow - wait for the dyno numbers!
