You are currently viewing our community as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our Member Supported community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos, content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Have Your Plugs Looked This Bad?", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I just changed my plugs and it is a good thing I did. In the 20+ years that I have been maintaining my vehicles (77 Chevy Nova, 90 Acura Integra), I have never pulled a plug that looked as bad as the ones that I just pulled from my truck. The smallest gap that I found amoung the eight plugs was .035. A couple were at .040. Additionally, there was no anti-seize used and they were not tight at all.
I can thank Toyota of Dallas for their condition since they installed them when I had the 30k maintenance done. I'm very glad that I'm doing all the maintenance at the 60k mark. When I changed my rear differential fluid, I had to tap the socket onto the fill hole bolt with a hammer because it was slightly stripped by the last person (Toyota of Dallas) to put a wrench to it.
I've attached photos of the plugs from two cylinders. Has anyone else's plugs looked like this when they were pulled? These two plugs are the worst but the rest are not much better. The tops of the pistons looked like what you would find on a grill at a public camp site. I'll have to try to fix that over time. Maybe a treatment with AutoRX is in order. I've done the throttle body cleaning with Seafoam twice over the past 10k miles which still didn't help the pistons.
I replaced the Denso K20R-U's with NGK BKR6EYA's (standard copper core) and the improvement in engine performance is huge. The first stop light that I came to after installing the NGK's, I thought that the engine had died. It hadn't done this but it seemed like it because it was so much smoother. The RPM's at idle have dropped as well. Hopefully my gas mileage will return to the level it was at before Toyta of Dallas installed the previous set of plugs.
__________________ Completed Mods:
S&S long tube headers
Brembo rotors
TSB caliper upgrade
Akebono ProAct ceramic pads
Stainless steel braided brake lines
Total Chaos steering rack bushings
Alignment to DJ's specs
Century cap
Line-X
XM Commander satellite radio w/USA Spec dual aux input adapter
Future Mods:
Rearview camera system
Sound deadener
Fusion Drive
Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)
Last edited by Picasso; 04-25-2005 at 02:01 PM.
Reason: grammar
My plugs were worse! when i bought my truck it had over 100k miles and i dont think he ever changed them. The truck felt 10 times more powerfull with new plugs and filters...
Yep..first plug change I did at 30K, most of them looked just about the same. When I did the next change at about 60K only a couple looked like that...That time I put in some long life platinum's so maybe they'll hold up a little better...That reminds me, I need to pull them since I'm at about 78K and see how they're doing.
Those don't look bad at all, The factory plugs ground electrode is U shaped which causes the sides of the center electrode to wear faster. The trucks are also supposed to have iridium plugs from the factory, but my 2000 did not have iridium from the factory.
__________________
2000 4x4 LTD AC Sunfire Red - Sold w/ 200K
2005 4x4 LTD AC Phantom grey w/ dark grey - Sold w/ 20K
Alpine CDA-9835, W/ KCA-420i, Focal 165KP front, Focal 165V Rear speakers. powered by 2 MMats SQ2150 amps. Alpine MRD-M501 powering a JL Stealthbox with Infinity Perfect 10D VQ
Sound deadened everything with Cascade VB2HD, and Dynamat Extreme
2005 G35 Sedan 6MT - Returned due to paint work on a 'new' car.
2006 G35 Sedan 6MT - all stock. Where do I hook up the trailer and where's the bass?
Those don't look bad at all, The factory plugs ground electrode is U shaped which causes the sides of the center electrode to wear faster. The trucks are also supposed to have iridium plugs from the factory, but my 2000 did not have iridium from the factory.
The pictures attached to my original post don't properly show the colored deposits on the center insulater and the edge of the metal ground. The plugs showed signs of oil fouling and they also smelled as if that had happened.
I noticed earlier today that there are also signs of combustion blow by on the four center plugs (cylinders 3, 4, 5, 6). I've attached two photos showing this. It looks as if there was some leakage between the insulator and the metal ground of the plug, but I don't think that actually happened. Since it was clear that the plugs were clearly not tightened correctly when they were installed, I do think that blow by occurred between the threads of the plug and the engine head.
Has anyone else had their plugs look like this after removal?
Just another reason to do your own vehicle maintenance.
__________________ Completed Mods:
S&S long tube headers
Brembo rotors
TSB caliper upgrade
Akebono ProAct ceramic pads
Stainless steel braided brake lines
Total Chaos steering rack bushings
Alignment to DJ's specs
Century cap
Line-X
XM Commander satellite radio w/USA Spec dual aux input adapter
Future Mods:
Rearview camera system
Sound deadener
Fusion Drive
Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)
I've used both the $1.59 Denso and NGK plugs, think I prefer the Denso, and have never had plugs look that bad after 30k. They do need the gap checked before installing, I always use a very small amount of antiseize on the threads, and use a torque wrench when installing.
The gas blowing out around the insulator is a sign of a defective plug.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
These plugs have the typical signs of fuel additives. I am not saying your additives, but rather the GAS COMPANY additives. Those plugs look worn but not bad at all.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
Don't be too quick to blame them for improper torque.
This is an aluminum head, and especially if you are lubricating the threads with antiseize, it would be VERY easy to overtorque.
I've changed my plugs three times, and though I have not used a torque wrench, I've knocked 'em in there pretty good with my 14" ratchet.
The old plugs ALWAYS end up feeling like I could spin them out without the wrench.
__________________ 2003 SR5 TRD V8
Better Built toolbox / Limited leather / Power outlet mod / Maplight mod / Horn mod / Wheelskins leather wheel wrap / RS3200 Plus / Rebadged w/TRD / Bully Nerf bars / '05 OEM Taillights / Clear corners / Tint / Factory Woodgrain kit / Gentex EC Mirror / Gaylord's Toolbox-Lid / MB Overdrives with Revos / Muthco Signal Mirrors / Sport Grille / TRD Dual Exhaust / Camry Nav System
I've used both the $1.59 Denso and NGK plugs, think I prefer the Denso, and have never had plugs look that bad after 30k. They do need the gap checked before installing, I always use a very small amount of antiseize on the threads, and use a torque wrench when installing.
The gas blowing out around the insulator is a sign of a defective plug.
Ken
30k on those plugs. I gapped the new plugs and installed with anti-seize as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rlockyer
Don't be too quick to blame them for improper torque.
This is an aluminum head, and especially if you are lubricating the threads with antiseize, it would be VERY easy to overtorque.
I've changed my plugs three times, and though I have not used a torque wrench, I've knocked 'em in there pretty good with my 14" ratchet.
The old plugs ALWAYS end up feeling like I could spin them out without the wrench.
That's exactly how mine felt when I removed them. Maybe I shouldn't blame that one on the dealership. In another 30k I'll be able to compare my install with theirs.
Thanks for everyone's insight.
__________________ Completed Mods:
S&S long tube headers
Brembo rotors
TSB caliper upgrade
Akebono ProAct ceramic pads
Stainless steel braided brake lines
Total Chaos steering rack bushings
Alignment to DJ's specs
Century cap
Line-X
XM Commander satellite radio w/USA Spec dual aux input adapter
Future Mods:
Rearview camera system
Sound deadener
Fusion Drive
Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)
Has anyone else's plugs looked like this when they were pulled?
That looks like quite a bit of oil fouling. I did my first set of plugs on the Tundra at like 90K and mine didn't look that bad at all. I had some glazing, some carbon buildup, and most of the electrodes were gone.
How does the engine run, is it rough? Do you use oil, do you have piston slap, etc?
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
That looks like quite a bit of oil fouling. I did my first set of plugs on the Tundra at like 90K and mine didn't look that bad at all. I had some glazing, some carbon buildup, and most of the elcerodes were gone.
How does the engine run, is it rough? Do you use oil, do you have piston slap, etc?
I agree about the oil fouling. The engine has always run pretty good, and runs even better after putting in the new plugs. I have never burned oil nor do I have piston slap.